Had rotors and pads replaced 40,000 miles ago at brakes plus. I went in last week to have them checked and the front pads were almost like new but the rear pads were down to 2mm and now they have to be replaced.
View 5 RepliesBrought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
I have a lot of fun and satisfaction working on my GX and noticed that the rear brake pads soon will need to be replaced. I know how to take off the front rotors by putting some DW-40 and using a rubber mallet to get them off. However because of the parking brake, I don't know how to get the rotor out so I can resurface it, which at this point don't look that bad anyway. How to get the rear rotors off? I have to do my wife's ES350 too so I figure I'll do mine first then hers.
View 14 RepliesI am wanting to change my rear brake pads and . Looking for step by step instructions or photos.
View 1 RepliesPut new pads on by 2006 Passat tonight. Disconnected the battery removed the calipers and used a 12 volt battery to retract the pbrake then pushed back the pistons. Buttoned everything up but when I started the car had the park brake fault light and car is now in limp mode (3rd gear only with harsh engagements.
Disconnected the battery again and will let it sit.
I replaced the pads and rotors on my 05 Civic 3000 miles ago. Now it is pulsing badly again when stepping on the brakes. I can feel the pulse in the brake pedal and the steering wheel. What should I be looking for when I pull off the wheels again.
View 8 RepliesI've got a 2011 XLT. The front rotors have been turned twice already in 39k miles. Once at 12k and again around 24k covered under warranty. It starting having vibrations on the highway and shuddering when braking again around 36k. Tired of dealing with the OEM rotors and told it would no longer be covered under warranty I went to Autozone and got duralast rotors and pads for the front.
Swapped them out Friday
- took caliper off
- removed pads
- took caliper bracket off
- swapped rotor
- opened bleed valve to push back piston(used a vise/c clamp combo)
- closed valve with piston under pressure
- put in new pads
- placed caliper bracket back on
I did not remove the pins, they seemed to slide fine and the remaining hardware still looks fairly new.
Took it out all was good, bedded the brakes a bit and called it a night. Come out this morning and start to head out and it's shaking like crazy now once above 40 mph. Made it back this afternoon and took the passenger side off and its not making full contact with the rotors. I've read this can be common until the pads are broken in. Driver side appears fine, pads appear to be bedding fine and nothing looks out of the ordinary, I took the caliper back off but had to open the bleed valve to get it loose enough to let go of the pads.
I've even taken the passenger side back off and reset the piston again just to make sure.
Put everything back together and take it for a spin. Truck seems worse now even at slow speeds 25-50mph. Once the brakes start getting hot from stopping the shaking goes away. When the brakes start cooling back down it comes right back.
Going to swap back the OEM rotors and retest in the morning. Will take the new ones back If that puts it back to normal I may just replace with OEM ones then. The brakes work perfect it's just the shaking that I can't seem to figure out.
Anything to check? It seems like the new rotors are warped
We had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
View 14 RepliesLast week I had my car visited the dealer due to left rear shock leaked which was replaced under warranty...
This weekend is the first time that I took the car out for a drive... When I got home, I noticed the left rear wheel area is covered with grease... I don't know where it came from... look like brownish goo... I splashed around the inner side of the wheel and also cover part of the rear brake caliper, brake line, and control arms.
What kind of grease is this?? Where is the grease came from???
My GS is all stock... No modification.... Currently has 62K on it.
I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 RepliesSo I bought an unused/uninstalled HID kit (Xenondepot) from another member on the board recently and installed it in my GX470. I have had aftermarket HID kits (Toyota OEM ballasts and D2S Philips bulbs w/adapters) in other cars so I know how to install them and what I need to be careful of (don't touch bulbs, good connections, etc).
Well, after about three hours of burn time over a few days with about 6 start up strikes, my drivers side is failing. The bulb did not strike one time so I turned the lights off, waited 10 seconds and turned it back on to restrike the bulbs and the both came on. When I started the car later that evening, the drivers side did not work again. I tried the same restrike process and no dice. The drivers side never came back after that.
I know XenonDepot has no liability to me since I did not buy the kit directly from them but I am not sure where I should buy a single replacement bulb from since it seems like the new bulb was defective (the kit was brand new and uninstalled).
I spent all day replacing my knock sensors and after getting everything back together now it wants to overheat. The thermostat is not that old before today there were no coolant problems.
View 1 RepliesOriginal battery died after 5 years service. I replaced battery but discover that certain electronics don't function correctly. Windows and door locks are messed up. Driver control won't operate front passenger window; but rears are OK. Driver door lost "one touch up/down" function. Door locks are sketchy. Question: is there some re-booting or re-programing needed that I can do? Dealer only item?
View 9 RepliesLast week Wed my vehicle was not starting. Some lights would start to come on and then die out. I read the forums here and replaced the traditional battery. Perfect, started right up and no issues. Today, went to bring the kids to school and it did not start up. No messages, a few lights like before and it went dark. Is this an engine issue. I have not tried to jump the new battery yet as it is pulled forward in my garage. (Today being Tuesday and not even a week into my new battery). I looked around, nothing was left on so what is happening. It has just short of 80,000 miles on it.
View 2 RepliesI believe my GX470, 03 model, use to unlock the drivers door automatically when I removed the key from the ignition. Now that the battery has been replaced the doors no longer unlock when removing the key. Is there a way to reprogram this?
View 3 RepliesJust went to the dealership for 40k miles service and they told me my rear brake pads were low, around 20%. And they quote me $430 for replacement (Parts + labor). Should i go with it? or i better go buy parts from internet store and find some local mechanic install it for me?
View 9 RepliesI am trying to change pads on the rear disc brakes. I got everything apart but can't get the piston to retract to get the new pads in. I am turning the piston clockwise with needle nose plyers and it isn't retracting. What do I need to do?
View 7 RepliesMy car has about 37k on it; and while the front pads look to be about 50% worn; the rears look like they are closer to 90%. Is this normal? The car is also sluggish while braking especially when the engine is being auto-revved to keep the system voltage up (a known problem). It also seems that the car will step into ABS lock-up mode too soon in a panic stop situation; which might also indicate that the brake system is biasing too much power to the rears; too little to the fronts.
I've never had a car wear the rear brakes more rapidly than the fronts; usually the rears are much more lightly utilized to reduce the tendency to skid. Is there any way to adjust brake bias? I'm getting ready to change rear pads and flush brake fluid.
So my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
View 3 RepliesJust had 30,000 km service done and was told the rear disc brake pads are almost completely worn out. The front ones are hardly worn and I'm not a fierce type driver who jams on the brakes or one who leaves the handbrake on..
I asked the service manager how come the rears are worn yet the fronts aren't - his answer was sometimes this happens.
What's with the rear brake pads wearing out before the front brake pads. Took my '03 Passat in last week to the dealer for the recall and the service dept. guy said my brake pads were worn out. I took the car to my local mechanic who specializes in VW's. Sure enough, rears were almost gone but fronts still had plenty of meat left on them. Of course I had him replace the rears. But I always thought the fronts wore out first. Could this anomaly be due to ABS?
View 11 Replies