Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Rear Door Lock Actuator Motor Stopped Working?
Jun 17, 2014
My left rear door actuator motor has stopped working and I have read about the repair of just the electric motor, BUT has anyone found the replacement of the little electric motor, Lexus wants a fortune because they want to sell you everything, cables, latches, it all comes in one bundle for 250 or so--Jeez. So hoping someone has the part number or place that we can get these little motors and just replace that!
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The driver side lock actuator on my 1999 Explorer has stopped working. It got so I couldn't even use the key to lock the driver door. I know I can get a replacement part, but after taking of the door panel and trying to get at the actuator, I am concerned about doing the work myself. Any tricks for making the job easier? Are there special tools that would make it easier? Or would it be best just to take it to a repair shop and let them do it?
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I have a 2007 Prius and recently both my driver side front door and driver side rear door lock actuator failed. I browsed and found part number to replace the driver side front door lock assembly. I wasn't very confident in my ability to replace the assembly, but I decided to give it a shot, so I ordered the part. The part arrived today and my wife and I just finished successfully replacing the assembly. It was a little challenging, but now that we know how to do it we could probably do it again in half the time.
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I changed the actuator motor on the DS passenger door. Now the door does not open. The electronic lock moves, locks and unlocks but the door does not open from inside or outside.
After a few tries the lock tab chatters but the door still does not open. What could be wrong? As far as i know i put it back together, like i took it out.
How to take the panel off from inside then i can atleast get to the two wires that go to the lock and see if i can open the door to take the actuator out once again.
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I think the actuator for my driver's rear door is on the fritz. Basically it fails to lock/unlock automatically like the other three do. The other three work fine - to include the passenger rear door.
Again - if I manually push the lock it works as it should (both lock and unlock) - but it will not unlock with the FOB. I removed the door panel and everything looks good - I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner (black) panel so I can get to the actuator.
I can hear the actuator trying to unlock it some times - I can hear a vibration coming from the door when it tries. But again - the passenger rear works fine. I think the biggest thing I need to do now is to get behind the inner door module (black trim) to see what is going on - but I can't figure out how.
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So my automatic door lock (set to 60 seconds in vehicle setting) stopped working for some reason. I double checked the setting and it seems to be on the right place. it was working fine before...
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I just purchased this really nice high milage '07 Sonata and am working on some "minor" issues:
The Driver's Door lock actuator is not working (all others are fine using the interior lock/unlock switch and the key when used in the driver's door lock).
I have researched the issue on this site and want to confirm what appears to be a nasty replacement scenario.
1st, can a new actuator be found for less than $70.00+-?
2nd, are the acuators specific for each door, left and right doors, or all interchangeable? I ask because I might go for a used one.
3rd, is the complete dismantleling of the door and window actually necessary? Seems unbelievable especially for such a common problem. But of course the engineers never expected it to be a "common" failure.
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Having issues with door lock actuators going out? I wanted to make sure that the motors (Mabuchi) are still the same for the ES?
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The driver side door of my 2009 f150 won't lock, not with the remote nor with the button inside the truck,also not when the truck goes over 20 km/h, however the driver side door works perfectly fine....
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I recently got a used 2007 prius as my first car; Unfortunately today the drivers side lock has stopped working. when trying to use the smart unlock, the Prius would beep many times, and the drivers door would not unlock (or lock for that matter). After getting into the car (with the mini key) I noticed that the inner lock button does not lock or unlock that door either.
All other doors function normally. The lock can be manually operated, so it's probably not mechanical.
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So all but the driver door window switch stopped working including the lock and unlock buttons. The windows still go up and down but from the other door switches.
My best guess is the master switch is gone bad. And at over 65k I'm sure it's no longer under warranty. I called the local dealer today and quoted me over $500 and would not give me the part number.
After parking the car for 15mins and turned the car back on, decided to try again. Everything works now I haven't taken anything apart yet but now I'm curious what caused it to temporarily fail.
After 30 mins of the car being on I decided to roll the windows up but the switch was dead again.
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2007 Prius here. A few months ago I had a similar problem. Basically when putting my hand on the door sensor, the doors would cycle through unlocking (noise, lights flash etc) without actually unlocking. If I keep pulling the handle after each attempt it seems to go forever.
The front passenger door also did not lock under any circumstance.
Took it into Toyota, they absolutely screwed me I now realize, $900 to replace a door actuator in that passenger door.
Worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden, problem started again. Just like last time, slowly slowly over the course of 2 months, it got worse and worse until today I could not open the driver side front or rear door at all.
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Ok so my v no longer beeps or flashes the lights when i lock it using the sks touch sensors or key fob. I just loaded up my prius v at my storage unit full of stuff to bring back to the house. It is packed to the ceiling. I had a small camping cooler at about ceiling height right behind the drivers seat on top of some other stuff. I thought if I drove gently it would be ok, well i stopped a little too fast and the camping cooler launched itself into the dash/center console, bounced off it and landed on the passenger seat.
I didn't see exactly where it impacted on the dash but there appears to be no marks or damage on the climate control or display audio. So the problem is now, maybe this just a coincidence, but when i lock the car from the outside using the FOB or the touch sensor on the door handle I just hear a faint click of the doors locking,(they doors still lock like normal) but no beep or flashing lights like before. I still get the flashing lights and beep sound when unlocking the doors. What I could have done?
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My rear driver-side door's lock just stopped functioning. It is in the locked position and I can't put it in the unlocked position using the key or manually (and I've tried using a LOT of force). The door itself is actually not locked. When I lock and unlock the doors, all the other doors work fine, and the broken one tries to lock and unlock, but it is stuck hard in it's position. But, the door stays unlocked under all circumstances.
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I have a jetta mkiv GLI. My key remote stopped working and it will not unlock/lock, open trunk, or panic button for a while, so ill just lock the door putting the key in the door and turning twice. Now i do the same thing to lock the doors, but now it honk like it used to, until i open and close the driver rear door?
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Last week out of the blue, the lock/unlock button the driver's side door stopped working altogether. It's not stuck, as I can definitely feel it click when pressed. Also, the passenger side button works just fine. This is very annoying after spending a year without ever having to use the actual key fob.
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T Wagon.
My passenger side, front window and lock stopped working. Once I cranked the AC and the car cooled a bit, the lock and window would work again.
Now, they have stopped working completely.
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All of a sudden, none of my windows roll down and I can't use the automatic door lock switch either. Went to autozone and bought a new fuse but, didn't work. What's the deal?? it's a 1998 Nissan Maxima...
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My driver's door power window motor stopped working. Replaced motor (Dorman). New motor was shaky and wouldn't stop when going down. Replaced motor again (Dorman), same thing. Regulator became damaged, replaced (Dorman), smoother, still won't stop with auto button, or holding down button. At some point glass came out of regulator and track. Replaced glass. Window goes up and down smoothly, but just doesn't stop when going down and tries to keep going. I don't see a limit switch or circuit for it. I see there is a relay and a fuse for the auto down. What tells the motor to stop driving current?
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I have a 2011 base model Camry.
The passenger side front door lock (electronic) stopped working a while back.
I fixed the drivers side issue when replacing the speakers in the car (driver side would stick and sometime not move by hand).
What is the best way to determine if the door lock actuator is dead or something else is wrong?
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My power windows and door lock controls on all doors have stopped working. No blown fuses and the local parts who says that locks and windows don't run on the same relay? I don't have a garage and cant really secure my vehicle?
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