It showed up yesterday and I looked it up that it's the Secondary Air Injection System Switching valve stuck open. I cleared the code but this morning I heard the pump vacuum noise, which I have never heard before but the code didn't come back on. [URL] .....
View 4 RepliesJust got the dreaded p2440 code which is the secondary air injection valve failure. Not only do you get several lights on the dash, you also get limp mode with this code.
My GX is a 2011 with 46k, and even though several Toyota vehicles have had their warranty extended to 10yr 150k for this very system, Lexus has done no such thing.
The dealer was very familiar with this issue and knew it wasn't covered under any existing warranty. He said it's "around $2000" to fix because one of the valves is still under the intake manifold.
Even though I hate to "RIG" my GX, I ordered the bypass module from EBAY. It blocks the system off and tricks the ecu into thinking all is well.
For those not familiar, this system runs on cold starts for 30 seconds or so to warm up the cats, it has no other function.
I have a P2440 code from warning light- Secondary AIR System Switching Valve A' Stuck Open. This started to appear when I took it into the dealer for other issue with transfer case whining when in 4x4. Can this code be associated with something the mechanic did , would they remove any sensors or wires, that may not have put back. Not happy. Are these trucks know for this code? Estimate cost?
View 4 RepliesWhere the vacuum (brake) pump is located in the engine bay?
View 8 RepliesI have a raspy exhaust leak sounding noise when I start my 2003 GTi 1.8t that cuts off just a few minutes after I start the car and a fellow owner told me he thought it was a vacuum pump that has rivets that fail and allow the case to separate and cause this noise. Where this pump is located? This former coworker of mine said he replaced the rivets with long slender screws and nuts after removing the rivets but I lost contact with him and don't know where this pump is located.
View 2 RepliesI had the doors open while unloading the car this morning and noticed that the brake booster pump just kept running and running and running, plus I can hear a strange, hollow rattling sound somewhere under the car that coincides with the pump. When I say it runs "constantly," I really mean that it runs for 10 seconds (with the rattle), stops for about 5 seconds (silence), runs and rattles for ten seconds again, stops for another five, and just keeps on going for as long as I care to sit there with the door open.
View 15 RepliesI have a 2010 GX460 with about 81000 miles on it. I recently got the above codes and after researching it I decided to take apart the air injection valves, and also the motor to see what was going on.
Luckily these parts are very easy to access on our cars. Take the engine cover and front plastic cover off. The two valve are on either side of the cylinder head, and the pump will be on the left hand side, front of the engine bay.
I ordered two new valves, and ended up just cleaning out my pump.
Here are the Part Numbers:
VALVE ASSEMBLY, AIR SWITCHING
2570138100
VALVE ASSEMBLY, AIR SWITCHING
2570238050
This is exactly what happened: [URL] ....
Here is what both of my valves looked like:
Here is what the air pump looked like:
I think my pcm has gone bad. My wait to start light won't come on an when I turn my key on I can't hear my fuel pump cut on anymore. My vacuum pump is also making a loud noise.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2004 E350 6.0 with a bad vacuum pump. I tried looking on Youtube for a video on replacing the pump but no luck. Looking for a video or instructions on replacing the pump? It looks fairly easy but you need to be a snake to gain access to the pump bolts.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 F-350 diesel. My vent selector is always on defrost so I suspected a broken hose but traced all out and all seem to be fine. I disconnected the line coming from the pump to the tank and no vacuum. The pump doesn't seem to be running but it's hard to tell with the engine noise and vibration. What tells the pump to run and how can I bench check it?
View 8 RepliesLately I have been working a lot with my cold air intake. One of the vacuum lines keeps popping off. Today I got a check engine light and VSC and VSC off light. Is that due to the tough idle caused by the disconnected vacuum line. I erased the code and so far it has not returned.
View 1 RepliesI have a lexus rx 330. Pump started making noise and low on fluid. We replaced all the belts and new pump. After installing new pump it was leaking from fill cup cap when driving also making a lot of noise on cold start. Mechanic said new pump was bad so we put in another one. Car ran fine as soon as we put it in and bleed good. Following morning again a lot of noise on cold start and noise goes away about 10 minutes but again small amount of fluid leaking from cap on fill cup. I replaced the rubber ring on cap to get a tight seal but again nothing.
View 6 RepliesOver the last few weeks I've been hearing what sounds like a failing pump of some sort when shutting off my '06 GX470. The sound lingers for just a moment after the ignition is cut off, and sounds like a loud, very fast tatatatatatatata. It doesn't always do this - sometimes I don't hear anything. I've been commuting in the GX for four years and I've only been hearing this intermittent occurrence over the last 3-5 weeks.
What this might be? Fuel pump? Air leveling suspension pump?
I have 2008 LS460 done 30,000 miles since last few days. I have CEL and when i hooked it to a reader the code came out P1235 "High pressure fuel pump out of range" any one had this problem before!
View 3 RepliesGot a check engine light with a P2601 error code this morning - Coolant Pump Control Circuit Range/Performance.
View 3 RepliesSo, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
2011 F150 SCREW FX4 6.5' box Ecoboost... All of a sudden I had no power assist for the brakes.
In a "unit down" situation waiting for a replacement vacuum brake pump assembly from Ford? My truck has been stuck at the dealership for going on three weeks now waiting for this part. No one seems to be able to say when the part will be available, which suggests to me that Ford is waiting on the supplier to produce more.
They're paying for a rental, but the 2013 Escape isn't anything near my F-150. A week maybe, I could understand, but on 6/11/2013 it's going to be three full weeks since my truck was towed into the dealership. How many of these things are on the road? How do they not have this part readily available?
Haven't found any other useful info on this, but local dealer says that's where my truck is leaking oil from, and since it's considered brakes not powertrain the repair won't be covered under warranty ...
Backstory goes : dropped my truck off at local dealer Thursday to repair an oil leak from near front main seal area of the engine discovered while inspecting to initiate a bumper-to-bumper warranty through Ford ESP- their platinum warranty. I figured with all the electronic widgets and non-powertrain stuffs on this beast I wouldn't mind paying for 3yrs/36k miles of trouble-free motoring, y'know?
Apparently it's the O-ring on the brake vacuum pump that's allowing engine oil to leak. I can't even find this thing, just looking for some further explanation. I'm keeping an open mind so far, I don't suspect the dealer's just trying to get one over on me, just trying to be good and educated before I go plunk down for the repair.
I lost boost, went from being chipped at 16psi to 7-8 with a check engine code and a high pitch noise. Now is the secondary air pump connected to the turbo in any way. It just happened and I'm working on getting the code read. Just curious if my pump is just bad, what im figuring.
View 1 RepliesOn my 05 Prius (65K miles) I recently had my local Toyota dealer replace both the inverter water pump (for free per recall) and main engine water pump (~$500 based on their recommendation because of some coolant leakage). 1 week later, I got the P1121 code coming off and on intermittently.
My dealer says that the work they did is not related to P1121.
I own a 2006 JDM prius with 323,000 km. The inverter coolant pump failed recently (got P0A93 code and no agitation in coolant reservoir). I ordered a replacement on eBay and am awaiting arrival. I may need to do some light driving in the in the interim and am thinking about installing a 10 inch fan in the space between the inverter/transmission and radiator to keep things cool. Is this wise or should I just let the car sit until the new pump gets here?
Also, I am burning oil...I usually have to top up 1 to 2 quarts in between changes. Is there anything I can do without tearing down the engine? A friend of mine suggested using Lucas oil stabilizer the next time I change oil...could this have any negative implications?