Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Negative Impact On Engines When Driven For Long Periods?
Feb 27, 2013
I'm trying to think of what gets affected on a vehicle which is driven about 20 to 25k miles a year. I'm looking to purchase one with the following description.
2006, 4.7L V8 is bulletproof, but with 165k miles already, what should I look for when inspecting the vehicle?
It's been dealer serviced. Is there anything other than normal wear and tear items that might be negatively impacted by doing so many road trips (lets say 300 miles at a time) That would be around 550 trips of 300 miles in 6 years.
The reason I ask this rather than just looking at the truck is because I'm in Dallas and the truck is at a Houston dealer... So before I drive out there, I wanted to "assume" what affect this kind of usage would do to an engine.
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I am having issues with my air conditioning on the 05 prius. For some reason when I leave to go somewhere its fine, but if I stop for long periods of the time the a/c stops cooling, the fan is still blowing. Once i take off it cools somewhat better but still not cold as it should be.
I have already had the car checked for DTCs and there are none, plus I had the a/c vacuumed down and recharged to factory specs, it still has the same problem.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe Limited and recently the main AC blower has been cutting on and off for long periods of time. The rear blower has not had any issues and has always worked. The main blower cuts off randomly and stays off until I tap under the glove box and then it normally kicks back on. Recently that has stopped working and I need to figure out what the problem is. Having the AC on or off does not effect this issue.
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape XLT V6 4X4. About 3 months ago I started to experience rough idle in the morning. It went a away for a month or so, but it is back now. I noticed that it occurs primarily after the vehicle has sat for long periods of time. More than 10 hours, give or take, and it happens, less than 10 and it generally doesn't. When the issue does occur it sometimes almost stalls. I can tell the computer attempts to make up for it usually. The check engine light came on originally but hasn't since, a mechanic could not pull any code and could not reproduce. The issue disappears within 3 to 5 minutes usually after everything seems to warm up. I'm had regular maintenance and I am an 75k. I've even tried using gas additives and tried a high grade of gasoline to no avail.
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My Toyota Corolla, 2006 keeps dying after long periods of sitting. Coincidentally (?) the issue has only occurred on weekends, after my 8-hour afternoon work shift. The first 2 occasions it made a quick clicking sound when I tried to start it (6 and 5 weeks ago, respectively). I replaced the battery; it was old. Then, the same issue happened two weeks ago. I had the battery checked at the site of purchase, where they also checked the alternator. Both reps advised me the parts showed up good on their meters. It died again the next day. So, I had a mechanic check every fuse and relay in the car to look for a draw on the battery using an amp meter. Readings indicated no significant drop in current draining from the battery while any were unplugged. . . I don't use a remote control unlock button (one professional seemed to think this might be relevant), and I have checked to make sure no lights were left on, even in the trunk. (Also note - I have seen no drop in performance when driving vehicle, nor any change in air conditioning or light brightness). I'm lost where to take it from here.
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My 2003 f150 v6 occassionally leaks a little inside when running the AC for long periods of time. Its only a little bit, and Ive noticed it after several road trips with the AC on the whole time. I am aware of a service bulletin fix on this. Essentially the problem is the two drain holes are horizontal through the firewall so air blows water back in, and the fix is to fit two L shaped hoses to block the wind and allow the water to drain downward in the engine compartment. I have done this months ago and it has largely solved the problem, when the water was more of an issue. My question is, is some condensation to be expected or is something clogged up? From time to time the heater core area makes a faint rhythmic rattling that goes away eventually.
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I only live 6 miles from work and I've been getting a lot of condensation gunk building up inside the filler cap and around the neck. Is there going to be any long term damage from this? Here is a picture of what I'm getting.
I know it's not coolant because I'm not loosing any and the oil on the dipstick is clean.
Since it got cold I've been taking another route to work that gets me up to 9 miles one way. Also, twice a week I take the long way home that has the engine running for a half hour but I'm still getting build up. In the winter I'm on call a lot and rarely go far from home so taking a two hour trip to really heat things up is probably not going to happen.
ETA. I change my oil every 3000 miles if that makes a difference.
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I have an automatic '95 Toyota Corolla wagon that over the past year has had intermittent problems dying after turning on the ignition. It happens mostly when starting for the first time in the morning in our carport (which is generally flat) [are there enough red herrings yet?]. However, we can go for weeks without problems. Our battery is relatively new (1yr) and the car starts-- however, sometimes the car dies unless the gas pedal is depressed for long periods of time in neutral or park. If I can pull out of the carport without having the car die, we've never had any problems on the road.
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I have a 2003 Saab 9-3 convertible that is having intermittent starting problems. It seems to happen when the car has been driven long distances and the weather is hot or when it is raining. It cranks fine but will not start. When it is hot, I open the hood and it starts after about 10 minutes. When it is wet is starts after being cranked for a white. My mechanic has replaced the ignition cassette and the spark plugs and it has not fixed the problem.
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I am going on vacation in May and am curious how long the C can sit if it's not started or driven? I have read that it can drain or possibly damage the battery from sitting to long, so just how long is o.k.? It seems like a pain to have to find someone to start up or drive the car while on vacation.
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I have a 2005 Mitsubishi Endevour XLS w/23000 miles, when the car has been driven for long distances or especially after sitting in a hot parking lot all day, I cannot remove the ignition key. The car has been serviced by the Mitsubishi dealer three times for this, including the Endevour recall for this problem.
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Wheel alignment for ES350? I have negative camber on all four wheels (picture below has a view what it is).
Also I just made an appointment with mechanic, and he said on the phone that for car like that you can not do alignment with negative camber. He said that likely I have bad bearing or shock, or something else. I hope he is wrong..
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On my 10 LS460 swb am contemplating cleaning the MAF sensor.
As the battery is in its own corner, I'm not too sure how to disconnect the negative terminal so I want to know, if I clean the MAF sensor and leave the battery connected, will that have adverse affect?
I think pulling and re plugging a specific fuse will also work?
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If I leave my 2013 RX parked for longer periods (5-14 days) w/o starting it does not want to recognize my key for starting oftentimes. I end up having to remove from my pocket and hold it up to the ignition button so it recognizes and then it will start.
I have had the battery checked in the remote and it is fine. The dealer tells me this can happen as the vehicle battery can run down in that amount of time since there are electronics within the vehicle still functioning that will draw from the battery.
I have no problem if I drive the vehicle every day or even every 2-3 days. Vehicle only has about 6,000 miles on it.
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I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles. This car is basically a rebadged Camry of the same vintage. Occasionally, when the car sits for extended periods (overnight or while I'm at work) and I try to start it, I get nothing. Not a click--nothing. This will never happen if I pop into a grocery store or other errands that are an hour or less.I've tried jiggling the floor shifter to see if it was the neutral safety switch and no luck. I've also tried putting the car in neutral with no results. I can also move the steering wheel rapidly left-right and push hard down onto the brake pedal with no obvious results. Eventually after 10 tries or so the starter motor will engage and it just starts. Could it be the ignition (where I put the key in)?
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I replaced the 12v battery this morning with an Optima, as some here suggest. No problem, but the strap on the Optima is touching the negative connector wire. I tried squishing the battery strap under the metal hold-down bar but that doesn't work.
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Like the title says, I sometimes experience a long shift from 1st to 2nd. When the transmission is cold, it seems to shift fine from 1st to 2nd. It isn't until it is warmed up that I get a looong shift. It winds up,,,,, then it shifts. I have no problems in other gears.
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I got a P0430 code. My fuel trims are over 20% on both banks. A few days back I got a P0174 code but after disconnecting the battery it cleared and hasn't come back. Are these codes related in any way?
I'm a bit confused because I removed both cats and put O2 spacers in on both sides. I never get a P0420 code. Is one of the spacers not working correctly? I sent Toyota an email about the 430 code and they want to know which of the cats were removed - front or back. I didn't even there were front AND back ones! I thought there were just 2 side by side.
When I analyze the O2 readings on Torque they look pretty similar for both banks although I admit I'm not the best person to judge. Both rear O2 sensors are fairly new.
Unfortunately living in the middle of Africa I can't get hold of a smoke machine. I'd love to look for a vacuum leak, as from what I've read about the subject this might well be the cause of my problems.
One mechanic wants to put a new fuel pump in but I'd like to postpone that because it's a pricey item.
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What is the hit on value because of this type of repair and the sticker required? I for one am having a hard time coming to grips that there wouldn't be a very negative impact to the value of the car.
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I've read on here that the cold weather has a big impact on MPG with the engine and the battery working more.
Here's the link: Why mileage gets worse in winter
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Have a system lean code popping up. long term fuel trim at idle is 14. No misfire counts. adjusted fuel trim from full rich to lean still no misfire counts. When on test drive and found after accelerating on the freeway soon as i take my foot off the gas pedal long term fuel trim jumps to 29 and multiple cylinder misfires start to occur. I take car off freeway and at stop light can feel misfire and fuel trim still at 29. coast it into the shop and at idle LTFT down to 10-14. Sprayed brake clean all over intake manifold but wasn't able to register any change in fuel trim. Fuel pressure is within spec. Cleaned MAF and Replaced with known good. LTFT still high
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