Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Motor Turns Over For Roughly 3-4 Seconds Before Starting In Freezing Temp
Jan 28, 2014
Noticed that motor turns over for roughly 3-4 seconds before starting when their GX has sat for awhile in well below freezing temperatures?
It's not slow turning over just takes a little bit longer to actually catch and start.
When the motor is warm or the outside temperature is closer to freezing or above I find that it turns over for no more than about 2 seconds before it starts.
I am thinking the longer turning over when cold is a good thing since the motor is starting to pump oil when it is turning over and allowing the internals to get lubricated before starting and revving.
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So I've had my car for 3 years now. I've done an emissions delete, replaced maf, diverter valve, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, timing belt kit, fuel filter, air filter, starter and battery (for another issue) have a 3" DP and replaced the O2 when I did that, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, tested another n75 in my car.
The problem: the car sometimes has a really hard time starting when it it way below freezing. When it's around cold, at freezing or under the car will start fine. But the problem starts after I back out of my driveway and take the clutch out and put on the gas. When I try to accelerate the car will not accelerate. You can have your foot pressed to the floor and the car will act as it's stalling out and sputter but it actually won't stall because the call will keep driving and then all of a sudden power will come back and it will take off. The situation can be remedied by either pushing the clutch in. The car will idle no mall or if when the car is sputtering I can tap the gas quickly an it will build up speed and the problem will go away.
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2010 Lexus Rx450h... Rattles in the morning, only when really cold. (Around freezing?). Somewhere in or near the passenger side door, or the air vent by that door. It gets quiet(er) after warmup. Car has been at the dealer for a week... They can't find it; they want to pack in additional insulation. That hardly sounds like a sound solution.
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2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i ... My vehicle struggles to start. Symptoms present at what seems random and the rest of the time it starts up no problem. I turn the key and the motor turns over a few times without starting then stops turning over yet still sounds as if the ignition and starter are still functioning, just with out success. No grinding or clicking, but the very audible sound of the car trying to start remains, but with out the cyclical turning of the motor. If I continue to keep the key turned for several seconds it sometimes will turn over again and start sluggishly but not always. I replaced the battery and it had no effect.
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First off I'm new to the 6.0 powerstroke that being said, I bought a 07 f350 with 102k miles in VERY good condition and I'm planning on doing the bullet proof on it. But my question is that when I start the truck it will turn over about 5 seconds before it starts up. I've even cycled the glow plugs twice with no difference. If I shut it off after it's warm and start it right back up it'll still turn over for about 3 seconds.
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There has been below freezing temperatures here in NYC and I noticed that the air suspension is disabled when left out in the cold.
The fist time I noticed this was when the temperature was 15 degrees and while driving the ride was very bouncy. I noticed I didn't hear the air compressor coming on. I tried raising the suspension from "N" to Hi or Lo but nothing happened when I pressed the button, not even the light, it just remained on "N".
I parked inside the garage and after about 20 minutes I heard the air compressor running and felt the car leveling itself. I was also able to adjust the by using the height control switch.
I have come to the conclusion that the cold weather is causing the air suspension to be disabled. I'm thinking the suspension should work at these temperatures. Is there any DIY for removing moisture from air suspension?
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I've been having trouble with my wiper fluid nozzles or something else in the fluid assembly freezing and becoming inoperable. It's pretty dangerous because I'm usually driving on the freeway with a lot of spray hitting the windshield and clouding the view.
Forgot to mention....this happens typically below 20 degrees and I'm using -20 fluid.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Solara Convertible, V6, low mileage (92,000), and it will reliably NOT start when the temperature gets below freezing. I have tried a couple of tank fulls of injector cleaner on advice from a friend, but no success. Once the temp falls below freezing overnight, the engine cranks but never catches. Once the temp is above freezing for a few hours, it fires up fine.
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I have a 2007 GS350 AWD with about 110,000 miles right now. For almost the last year or so it has been burning off some oil. By the time its up for an oil change, it occasionally gives me the engine oil low light. It stays on between a few seconds to a minute and then turns off.
I've been telling this to the local Lexus dealership where i've had all my maintenance done, and they eventually did an oil consumption test. They said it was losing about 1.5 liters after 3,000 miles. They say that is within spec.
This issue came up several times while i was still in my 100,000 mile warranty, but they wouldn't do anything as it was in spec. I don't see how i should get a low engine light warning every 3-4k miles and have been pushing them to do something and cover under warranty since it has been documented as an issue before the warranty ran out. Lexus corporate asked for a compression test (which i had to pay for), the results are below:
Cyc#1: 205 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#2: 200 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#3: 190 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#4: 200 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#5: 205 dry; 210 wet
Cyc#6: 190 dry; 220 wet
After Lexus received the results they asked for, they still said: well the oil consumption is in spec so won't do anything.
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So im driving home and i realize one of my headlights are out. I get home and turn them and turn them back on and the headlight turns very dim for a couple of seconds, and then shuts off. What this could be? Ballast or Bulb. I have major modifications done to the wheels wells to fit the wheels, so i don't want to take it to the dealer.
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The windshield washers of 2014 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v) didn't work all winter if the temp was +20F or less. I'm using -30F or -40F washer fluid. I use the same fluid in my 1995 Previa, and its washers worked all winter. A friend has a 2014 Prius, which didn't have any washer problems.
I tried pouring warm water over the nozzles, but they're location makes it difficult to reach them. Is it the nozzles or is it the rubber hose that feeds them from the reservoir?
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1996 SILVERADO TRUCK. Starter solenoid doesn't engage when temperature is below freezing....
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When the temperature drops below about 30 degrees f, the windshield washer won't spray. I am using washer fluid so I don't think that it is freeing or that there is any water in the lines. I read somewhere that this might be a defective motor, part number 98510-26100.
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I have this weird electric motor noise that comes from the rear a few seconds after I shut my car off (I don't have the leveling air suspension). I also hear it in the engine compartment on occasion when the engine is shut off (I've heard it hours after the car is off). It lasts for a couple of seconds and it's gone. I do have the car set on auto ebrake. That's the only thing I can think of causing the noise...like the cable loses tension and the motor tightens it, but I don't really know.
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I'm new to the 2G and noticed a wheel shudder or jump when turning a tight circle in low temps? I'll try to list out all the info I can:
The shudder was exactly like a 4x4 vehicle in low range/diff-lock when turning on dry pavement.
Going straight or slight turns only, nothing noticeable. ( I was paying attention)
200k miles, just bought the car and haven't changed the WS atf yet.
Temps in the -25°C/-10°F range ....
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I'm occasionally having a scary issue with my '13 RC450h. There are a couple of parking lots where the transition from the parking lot to the road is not particularly smooth and the speed of the other cars on the road require that you get up to 50mph pretty quickly.
When I hit the gas then hit the bumps in the transition, the TRAC light turns on and power to the wheels is lost for a couple of seconds (exactly the opposite of what I want to happen). Is this happening to other people or is this something that needs to be looked at? Is this just a result of traction control and I need to remember to turn it off when leaving a parking lot and entering a busy road?
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A friend of mine has a 2007 Accent with some scary MDPS issues. Basically it randomly freezes the steering wheel without a warning making it extremely hard to drive. He went to the dealership and since the car is without warranty they'll charge him 1200$ for repair. Is there any recall on these models for this MDPS?
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I have a 2006 Expedition with 90k miles. I am the original owner. don't drive the vehicle much just mostly when the family goes somewhere or when I'm putting the Jet skis in the lake.
About a year ago the air con went out and since I don't drive it that much I decided to fix it later, well now is later. How to diagnose the AC system. what I am looking for is a methodical step by step procedure for trying to find out what is causing my AC to not work.
the symptoms are, the compressor turns on runs for a few seconds and then turns off. inside the cab I can hear hear a hiss noise during the few seconds that the compressor comes on and fades away slowly when the compressor shuts off.
I bought a can of 134a with the gauge, I adjusted the gauge for the correct ambient temperature hooked up to the low side and was surprised to see that the Freon was only a little low. I topped it off but still no change in the compressor running.
I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight (I know I know you get what you pay for) in any case I hooked up the gauges to see what the pressures are when the compressor turns on but only seeing a little change.
Any way I took my Speedy (expedition) to the local auto air conditioner shop the mechanic hooked his gauge set up to the vehicle, watched it for a few minutes, made some phone calls, came back. He did tell me that he was going to have to replace the compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valves both front and back and flush the rest of the parts that did not get replaced. I suppose this is a good price if all that work really needs to be done???
However I would like to exhaust all of my options before I dump half the vehicles blue book value into the air conditioning. so I've been searching the internet and found that it is possible the problem may reside in a control valve that may be present in the type of scroll compressor that is in the expedition.
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I have a 2003 Ford crown Victoria with 137,000km (85,000 miles) which is in good condition overall. It runs well in the city and highway with few problems. I have noticed 1 issue with this car that is consistent. When it is snowing and below freezing it will hesitate occasionally on the highway at speeds over 45 mph. It does not put out any codes. I have sprayed the ignition wires with no change. I have not changed any ignition parts. I did over 500 miles on the highway this weekend in moderate rain with no trouble at all at temperatures around freezing. Today was snowing and below freezing with same problem on highway with occasional hesitation. In the city today with traction problems and tires spinning the ABS and Brake light came on. They were out when I drove it home.
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It's a 05 Kia Rio. I've recently put a bit of work into it due to a few issues which were fuel related, namely replacing the fuel filter/pump. It also has brand new spark plugs. That solved the issue that originally put it on blocks for a few months and it ran fine for the past few weeks.
Today I went outside to drive to work and got the symptoms in the title. I know it's not a spark issue because it does start, and I used it on accessory to air up my tires this morning.
I'm just not sure where to go next. I've done a bit of searching and have found recommendations for checking the grounds and the distributor cap.
While running at rough idle, depressing the accelerator makes it die faster, rather than keeping it running. It rained last night and this morning. It's about 70 outside instead of the 80-90 it's been the last few weeks. No check engine light, but I've only tried to start it about 10 times.
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When trying to drive my car out of the garage this weekend, it started backing up and then it stopped. It would also not do anything when I put it in drive. Next, the engine cut out. It would only stay on for a few seconds when starting it up again. It continued to do this. I had the car brought to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign cars. He called me today and said my car will not talk to the computer. He stated it must be the hybrid battery. He told me I need to take it to a Toyota dealer. My question is how to know if this battery is truly out and there is not another problem? I have a 2001 Prius.
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