Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Loud Rattle Unless Brakes Are Depressed
May 18, 2012
I have a 2004 GX. When we hit a bump, we get a loud rattle unless the brakes are depressed. Found the answer in this thread: [URL] .....
I purchased my GX at a Lexus dealer about 400 miles away. The previous owner had a brake job done and replaced the front calipers with after-market parts instead of the OEM since he was about to trade it in. I took it to my local Lexus dealer who told me the anti-rattle spring "wasn't as beefy" as the OEM version and that's what's causing the rattle. Nothing they can do for me.
I came home and checked out the pins on the rattling caliper (see part 47748B) [URL] ....
I found that I was able to slide one of them back and forth about 1/8 of an inch. Makes me think maybe the internal spring is missing causing the loose fit. When I called the Lexus dealer I purchased from, the service manager said it's possible they didn't install the internal spring b/c the specs say it's optional.
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I took it back into the shop and told them about the brakes squealing and rattle. They told me my rotors were glazed so I should replace them. Thought it was fixed, until I got home and still had the squeal and the rattle. I guess they can't seem to duplicate the problem but this is what my brakes sound like when I brake, or go over bump while braking: [URL]......
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This is regarding my 96 BMW 328i. It has approximately 177,000 miles on it. Over the past year, I've replaced the cooling system, fuel pump, alternator and trans fluid for kicks. So, I'm understandably frustrated with it. Anyway, to my story:
On my way into work, whenever I pressed in on the clutch, it would make a loud clunk/pop and freak me out. I turned around after 1/4 of the way and swapped cars.
My mechanical skills are maybe 3 on a scale of 1 to 10. I'm not afraid of changing oil, brake pads, transmission fluid, changing an alternator, etc. But I want to have someone to blame for anything that involves anything within the engine block/head/transmission continuum.
I noticed that a heat shield was loose between the driveshaft and the exhaust. I rapped it with a hammer, and the heat shield didn't make a noise anything like I'm hearing. So, it doesn't sound like that's the real culprit here.
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I've been driving manual transmission vehicles - from my '72 Pinto to big trucks - for 40 years. This happened recently in a VW Golf I had rented: While driving down a mountain in a tunnel in Norway, with the clutch depressed, there was a loud POP noise.The clutch became engaged, and the clutch pedal did nothing. I'll spare you the details of the harrowing aftermath, the language barrier issues in the sticks of Norway and such. In the end, the rental company is charging us a couple thousand bucks for breaking their car. I maintain it was not Driver Error. My local VM service manager indicated that the Slave Cylinder on the Golf has been a problem for years, and is probably what went bad, but - as a rep of VW - is not willing (allowed) to put that in writing. The garage that fixed the Golf indicated it was Driver Error. I'm guessing everything tranny-wise got beat up when the Slave gave out, making it look like I'm a bonafide Clutch Masher.
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I bought the 2013 GS 350 F-sport thinking it would be a long lasting reliable car.... I've had brake squeal since day one. My car now has 45k miles on it, all miles driven with the insanely loud brake squeal. It's been to the dealership many times but they've change the brake pads only once and refused to resurface or swap the rotors. After I called Lexus corporate and filled a case, I finally got the managers attention. (1800-25lexus for those in need)
The manager tells me that the brake squeal can be caused by the drivers driving pattern. He basically said that if you don't drive hard enough or maybe even drive too hard, the rotors will glaze over and you will get squeal. -so let me get this right, I have to drive a certain way all the time so I don't get brake squeal? - Long story short, he asked me to come in again so he can see the squeal himself.
Aside from the brake squeal..
-My front and rear passenger side shocks blew out and were replaced at 20k miles.
-I've had a rattle in my passenger side dash since 10k miles that the dealer refuses to fix. They say trying to fix it will cause more rattle.
-My back up camera is now pointing too low. Every time I go in for a fix it just ends up happening again after the fix.
-My rear view mirror is loose.
I can deal with the small things but that damn brake squeal is so loud that it actually pierces my ears when I brake next to a car with my windows down.. Brake squeal has now started on my sisters 2014 is350 f-sport as well. How I can fix the brake squeal so I can sell the car?
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I have 2013 GS350 I bought in October with 5k miles. Currently I have 14,500 miles on it today.
Every time I have a cold start on the car, When driving at low speeds and braking, it has a loud squealing noise. Once the car has been running and driving, it goes away and doesn't came back unless I park the car and get back in an hour or so later. I went to the dealer and the guy said it's "normal", said moisture gets in and needs a few minutes break apart and that's how Lexus designs their cars. Which is believe is BS.
Here is a video of the noise. This isn't as loud as I've heard it before. [URL] ....
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Occasionally for the last year when in Reverse my Prius' brakes will feel hard as rock and will only depress an inch or so. I depress the brake and within a literal inch it's solid and will not depress any more. I can still use the brake and reverse it's just jerky and awkward because I only have an inch to work with.. it's like they lock up or something.
Well today same thing happened while in reverse but instead of the car actually reversing like normal when it has this hard brake problem it actually started rolling forwards while in reverse!! it was as if it was in neutral because touching the acceleration pedal did nothing.. which made me think of neutral cause it does the same thing, but the dash read reverse... all while I'm dealing with a hard brake. I have come to overlook it because I cannot mimic it and figured it was a possible regenerative/electric braking thing and seems fairly common among people here, but today was spooky because it rolled forward out of the blue..
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I have a 2004 F150 with 195,000mi. For the last several moths the truck has had a rattle on startup, some days it is barely noticable and only on cold starts, other days it is loud and occurs on every startup. The truck was most recently serviced at the Ford dealer and is filled with Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend and Motorcraft filter Every change before was either Motorcraft syn blend or Penzoil Platinum (I have always used Motorcraft filters on it) and the noise continued after oil changes so I don't think the drain back valve is the issue. I replaced the cam phasers, timing chains, chain tensioners, and guides about 15,000 miles (2 years) ago and the vct solenoids shortly after that. Here is an audio clip of the noise (I know the truck also has an exhaust manifold leak, I plan on replacing the manifold while im working on it
Is this noise the lash adjusters or have the cam phasers failed again (they were dorman parts)? If it is the lash adjusters, can they be replaced without removing the cams? will failed adjusters be obviously damaged? Should I also replace the cam followers? do i need to replace all 24 at once or can i safely replace only damaged ones or maybe just 1 bank (noise seems to only be coming from the pass side)?
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While driving 50MPH one day the car suddenly started making a very noisy, loud sound and would not accelerate when the gas pedal was depressed. I put the car in neutral and pulled off the road. The engine is running great but the gears are now all screwwy. R = neutral, and all other positions "N D 3 2 1" go forward. I put the car into one of the forward gears and it moves, but only about 20 feet before it ceases to move without a LOT of gas, then it is only 1-2 MPH.
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I have noticed the brakes to be squeaking pretty loud car has about 37k miles and the last service done at 32k shows front pads to be at 5mm and rears at 9mm. What am I looking at is it covered under warranty or I just need to swap the pads.
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I've noticed and been experimenting the past 2 days with something strange, at least strange to me. Leaving work each day, I have about 4.5-5 miles of minor down hill grade. It always aggravates me that I can't truly glide on most of this slope because the ICE motor is warming up.
Yesterday I was watching the Eco meter/bar as I was coasting to the first of 2 sharp (15MPH) 90 degree turns, and noticed that as I applied the brakes, the ICE must have turned off because the MPG meter shot up to the top of the scale.
Normally, I'll accelerate to 35-40 MPH, release the throttle and watch the ECO bar go into the charge section of the gage as the MPG meter goes into the 90-100 range. I slowly depress the accelerator, to move the bar back toward the neutral/glide position and as I do, the MPG meter slowly drops to around 40-50 and continues to drop as the speed slowly bleeds off. But as I said, yesterday as I applied the brakes, I noticed the meter went shooting to 100.
So today I played with it and not only was I able to get the ICE to turn off at each of the sharp turns, but after accelerating, as I was going straight after the second turn, I was able to get the ICE to turn off by braking while still keeping the throttle depressed to maintain 35 MPH.
Now I don't have any extra meters to tell me what the engine temp was, so I don't know what stage of warm up the motor was in, but I can tell you that outside temp was about 65, the first turn is about 90 seconds (1/2 mile plus parking lot congestion leaving the school) into my journey and the second turn exactly 1/2 mile on down the road (35 speed limit). Without using the braking trick, my motor will not shut off for gliding until about 6-8 minutes or 2.5-3.5 miles into my drive.
Trick to turn off the ICE? I was able to raise my overall MPG for the 23 mile round trip from 63+ to 64+ MPG today by being able to actually do serious gliding in those first 3 miles.
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I've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
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I'm driving a 2010 Hyundai Sonata and just recently one of my brake lights has been acting up. Everything works perfectly fine as long as the head lights are off; however with the head lights on, when I depress the brake pedal my driver's side tail/brake light goes out. The center brake light and passenger side brake light work just fine regardless of the head lights being on or off. With the headlights off, all the brake lights operate normally when the pedal is depressed.
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2007 GS 350. In the past 6 months i have changed my FRONT brake pads with two different pair. First was a generic pad(REMOVED), and did some research then went for Akebono(CURRENTLY) brake pads 2-months noise-free and now back to braking noise dilemma.
Issues:
-In the morning, first 3-5 pressed brakes makes loud(REALLY LOUD!) humming noise then goes away. Feels like the brakes are rusty but it continually does it everyday. I just got the car serviced so assuming all my fluids are filled.
-Randomly, on a fully stopped brake i hear a whistle noise from the front brake. NOT as loud described above.
-I noticed the noise happened the most on HOT weather, and occasionally on COLD weather.
Longo Lexus advice me to buy an OEM brake pads and should resolve this problem. I'm also thinking of just getting it done at the dealership and pay that extra cash plus warranty.
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99 Ranger XLT 4.0 4WD Automatic. With the turn signal blinking and I depress the brake the turn signal stops blinking until I release the brake. Where to start.
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the other day i was driving with no music on my GS and i noticed every time i came to a complete stop, the brakes would produce a weird loud knock sound. it was rainning so i thought it would be from that... but then after driving it roughly 5-7miles the sound stopped... then since i noticed it, i hoped on my corolla to see if it had the same thing but no... only on my GS.. is this normal?
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I leased a 2015 RC-350 F sport back in October. It is my 6th Lexus. I noticed that the brakes would repeatedly squeak (all types of conditions). It happens the final few feet while coming to a compete stop where the brakes would squeak incredibly loud. I had the car inspected at the dealership, and after my second complaint the car was inspected and a new set of rotors and pads were installed.
Unfortunately, the second set is worse than the first. Another complaint to the dealership and I was told they had done everything in their power, and I should complain to Lexus Customer Satisfaction. It's been 2 weeks since my initial call to them and finally after several calls to them asking for support they told me today it is deemed "normal operation of these high performance brakes".
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Brake pedal to the floor... And a lot of fluid on the ground.
I was coming home (empty fortunately) last evening when I noticed the brake pedal give an initial resistance, then slowly sank all the way to the floorboard when slowing down to turn onto my street. When I got to the house, I noticed a hissing sound each time as the depressed brake pedal sank to the floor. When I got out, there was a lot of brake fluid on the ground on the left rear side. It appears to be between the fuel tank and frame rail. From the side it is the section between the fuel filler to just ahead of the left rear wheel. The tank and frame rail is drenched and dripping DOT 3.
I am lucky to not have been pulling my 5th wheel when this happened! However, I have a camping trip coming up in a few weeks, but now my TV is broken. What has happened, and an estimate for repairs? Where is the best place to have it fixed, dealer or specialty shop? I just bought this vehicle in January and it has 102,500 miles, and came complete with full and meticulous repair records. The P.O. was incredible at upkeep, so this is something curious and flukey to me. But do I need to worry about the other side now, too?
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I just got a 2009 lexus gs 350 everything is perfect except when i go into reverse and back up slowly the brakes make a loud squeaking noise!! Its really annoying and embarrassing. I got the rotors resurfaced and nothing.
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I bought a 2004 F250 super duty 4x4 with the 6.0 a couple weeks ago and have a few questions. Hopefully all of these things are normal, but I thought I would ask you experienced drivers.
1) Occasionally while driving when I lift off the accelerator pedal I can hear a sort of loud rattle under the hood. I assume this is the turbo shutting down? Is that normal?
2) 4x4 and locking hubs... I have the 4x4 hi and low switch on the dash. Do I need to also manually lock the hubs to go into 4x4? After reading the manual it seems like I can just turn the dash switch and they should automatically lock, but I'm not sure. The hubs are not marked, but going by the pictures in the manual I think I know which is "lock" and which position is "auto" or off.
3) Front wheels hop at full turn. I expected wheel hop in 4x4 or with the hubs locked, but even in 2WD with the hubs in the auto position the tires still "hop" or knock a bit at sharp turns. Is this normal?
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I've owned my 2004 GX since last November and it has a had an issue with the sunroof in the last couple months.
The problem is my sunroof rattles when it is closed and I have already taken into my local dealership. The first attempt was to lube up the gasket, which worked temporarily. The most recent attempt was to remove the sunroof and realign it as they said it was higher toward the rear of the car.
It seemed to have worked, but now the rattle started up again slight and it will probably progress to get louder. If I push up the sunroof, there is a slight play toward the front of the car. The rattle when driving seems to be coming from the between the front and rear seats so what is actually causing the noise. There is a slight rattle whenever i close the driver or passenger side door.
The service manager said that the GX's have this common problem and that there will also be a slight rattling from the chassis flex. At its worst, I could clearly hear the rattle driving in a straight line, while slightly steering left and right. I know the GX is a truck and not a unibody chassis design, but I would think Lexus could make quite sunroof for this luxury vehicle.
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