Lexus GX 2004-09 :: High Squeal Every Time Crank Engine And When AC Compressor Is Engaging


Apr 19, 2013

The truck has been putting off a high squeal every time I crank the engine and when the A/C compressor is engaging.

My first idea was the accessory belt slipping on the compressor when its clutch kicked in. So I replaced the belt. The sound has dissipated a bit but is still there on initial start up and periodically while the A/C is on in the truck. If I turn the A/C button in the cab off the sound quits altogether.

My next idea is the A/C clutch. I prefer to work on my cars myself so if you can just replace the clutch without doing the whole compressor? The compressor works amazing and the truck gets ice cold in the TX heat so if I can keep it while just doing the clutch that would be amazing.

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A high pitched squeal appears to come from the front of the a/c compressor whenever the clutch engages. When the clutch disengages the compressor stops spinning, and the squeal stops. I can watch and listen to this as the system cycles with the a/c switched on. If I turn off the a/c, no squeal. I'm guessing the bearings in the compressor are going out. However, the system still cools normally, so apparently no gas has leaked out.

Does this imply the compressor must be replaced, or could injection of some oil into the system possibly fix it...?

This car only has 73,000 miles on it. I've owned 2 other TB's and a couple classic Mustangs with much higher miles and never seen an a/c compressor bearings fail.

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I've also had two separate mechanics look at the problem and both are at a loss as to what could be causing the noise. The guess is maybe its an air leak coming from either the intake or vacuum lines. But nobody is really sure.

The noise seems to really become noticeable when the temperature gets below 20 degrees and around 2000 rpms, but sometimes it happens at other times. Where this extremely annoying sound might be coming from?

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My mother in law has a Santa Fe 2004 with a ~2.4. The AC compressor quit working over the winter. The AC compressor does not react to turning on the AC button.

I checked the fuses. I also tried changing out the AC relay with another one and it still didn't respond. The relay also didn't sound as though it was clicking over. The AC indiacator light is working.

Could it be the actual button has failed or is there a way to check if the button is functioning?

How does the compressor know to engage? Is there a place I can test 12v at the compressor?

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So, last week, I heard this high pitched squeal coming from the wheel well. At low speeds it seemed. It was in a parking garage.

But then, it disappeared. All of a sudden, I'm reversing into a spot barely touching the brake and it's squealing again.

I then take it again for a spin around the garage, no sound. I reverse again, no sound.

A few days later, I'm pulling out of the garage and the sound is so loud my GF could hear it from within another car behind me. It squeals until I start going faster and I'm on the highway. I get to my destination, ask my friend who is good with cars to check it out. But of course, I couldn't recreate the sound. Tried going slow, backing up, braking, going faster, etc.

So, do you know of a sound that would be very loud one day and completely go away the next? I saw some things about a shim or clip on the brake pad possibly touching the rotor or is loose?

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I have a high pitched squeal coming from the back windows during operation. I am pretty confident it's not the window assembly itself (linkage, track, etc in the door), but rather the weatherstripping type material that physically lays against the glass at the bottom of the window opening on the door. This happens in both up and down directions of the window.

It DOES NOT squeal when the material is wet, and thus is the reason that I've been able to pinpoint the cause. It's likely that the window channels could be contributing to this as well. The problem is...I don't know how to solve this without applying a lubricant that will smear/streak my windows.

I've already taken clean rags and wiped both the inner and outer portions of this material to remove dirt and dust that they gather...no change in the noise. Is there a way to "condition" the material so they will soften up, without leaving a residue that will streak the window?

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I have an 06 F350 diesel, I had some work done on it that required the body to be raised on it. After I got it back the A/C didn't blow cold. I put it off for a while since I didn't need it. Anyways, the clutch isn't engaging so the compressor doesn't spin.

Things I have checked: Compressor rotates smoothly by hand. No blown fuses or bad relays (checked them all with meter). No results when jumpering the Hi/low press switches. Tried charging the system and the gage I got with the can goes to 80# and it maxed out. For the air gap on the clutch/shim idea, I tried pushing in on the clutch while it was running with a long extension to see if I could get it to engage, no luck

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However - compressor running nice and quiet, after recharge, no problems, silent operation. Couple questions:

1. Ford manual says no need to replace accumulator unless there is evidence of compressor failure (which mine hasn't yet) -- is that 'evidence' trash in the orifice tube? If so, where precisely is it? I know it's in one of the tube assemblies, but can't visualize the location from the diagrams.
2. Since my compressor hadn't failed, still running quiet/smooth, can I just replace that and the leaky hose assembly and be done w/it?
3. Is this a job that's beyond the moderately skilled garage mechanic? I handle most of my own jobs with exception of heavy engine (i.e., heads, etc) but have never attempted a/c-related due to the refrigerant portion of this job. I'm sure I can obtain the proper vacuum equipment somehow, if it's something that's not too overly complicated...

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I checked the compressor switch and it is working fine, and the compressor is engaging and staying engaged, but not outputting cold air except for the first 10 seconds or so. I do believe the temperature door inside the dash is opening properly. What I might check myself before taking the car in for A/C service? I am capable of replacing the compressor & seals myself but would have to have someone discharge the system and then recharge it afterwards.

The car is a rebuilder that I bought about 10 years ago. The fellow (very trustworthy) who rebuilt it replaced all the A/C o-ring seals when I bought it and made sure the system was fully charged. It has worked perfectly this whole time. He also gave me the a/c compressor and other parts from the parts car that was used to rebuild this one.

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