Lexus GX 2004-09 :: High / Low Selector Stuck In Neutral
Jul 28, 2015
I am the proud new owner of an 2004 GX 470 4X4 with 103K. I don't know how much cross over there is to tundra solutions. But, I own a 2000 Tundra, and I've been over there for a while as Listen Up Sonny. Anyway, I purchased the truck with two issues:
1. The 90K maintenance has been "deferred." I'm getting it into the shop for timing belt, waterpump, pulleys, and seals. I am going to do the spark plugs and fluids.
2. The issue I am still trying to figure out is that the dash shift indicator light for the High/Low gear shifter is stuck in Neutral. By this, I mean no matter where you shift the gear, the light indicates "N." I don't believe the transfer case is actually stuck in neutral since the car drives fine. I can get the center differential to lock and unlock. I am not sure if the transfer case will shift into Low as I couldn't really tell when testing it on a dirt low.
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Just got my 2013 Elantra Limited last weekend. It appears the car is having some issues with the transmission shifter. I am not sure if its tranny related, but I highly suspect it is. Dealer gave me the usual bs not being able to duplicate the symptoms.
1. Intermittently, gear selector would get stuck in neutral, when I try to put the car into P, after a long or a short drive.
2. I would have to wiggle the shifter to get into P, or I would have to shift to D, and then I am able to shift back into P.
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The 4 wheel stick shift is stuck between H and L and would not engage either .. what can be done..
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My wife started up my 2005 GX470 this morning to go to work and drove maybe a half mile before she noticed a problem. So she turned around and drove it back home in limp mode. She put it in park and got out.
Most of the Warning Lights are on ( VSC OFF, VSC TRAC, Anti Skid, Check Engine etc). I tried moving the shift lever but there was some resistance and some grinding noises. And it now seems to be stuck in neutral.
How to diagnose this myself? We only drive this vehicle in the winter, and it was fine the last time we used it.
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06 330 4WD Replaced control arms, tied rod ends, ball joints and had aligned. Now it somehow appears that the suspension is stuck in the high position, there is no movement in the front struts. It sounds like there is no motion from any suspension components. Feeling a bit stupid here...everything looks correct. So Disconnected battery and suspension is actually active now. But each corner is at a different height, will not return to Normal or low position
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I am having a problem with my rear suspension. The indicator lights on the dash (for the rear suspension control) are working correctly as are the controls on the center console, however the rear of my vehicle is stuck in a high position.
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My wife has a 2010 RX-350 which had to have the transmission replaced a few weeks ago. She has run into an issue when it's cold that the car seems to be stuck in neutral as she applies the gas and it just creeps. This most recent time, the "Check Engine" light came on the message "Check AWD" on the dash. Lexus says they can't find anything wrong except slightly low Transmission Fluid.
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I read a couple posts on Gear Shift switching back to neutral. Here is my situation. Got in the car to return some movies and realized I left them on the table. Went back to the house, and right before I turned into the driveway, noticed a metal coffee cup had come out of the holder and the edge was up under the accelerator. I had been applying my brakes to slow for the turn into the driveway, then when I went to accelerate, nothing, then noticed the cup.
Removed the cup and stepped on the gas to go into the driveway. Nothing. Turned the car off, then back on and tried to put into drive, goes a tiny bit then slips back into neutral. Tried it in reverse, same thing, pops back into neutral.
I can hold the shift lever in position and the car moves. It's in the driveway now and will get towed to the Toyota dealer tomorrow. Obviously a problem with the shifter as a result of the "coffee cup" under the edge of the accelerator. And yes, I know it's dangerous, hubby used the car last on his visit home this weekend and apparently the coffee cup either got put down on the floorboard or was knocked out. I bring it in the home when I'm done.....anyway.
So, the most likely cause was the spring talked about in other posts breaking, or a switch sticking or what. Seems like something got knocked or shifted out of adjustment. Does the accelerator have some type of cut off switch if something gets lodged under it?
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I'm having trouble diagnosing a high RPM in park and neutral on my 2004 Santa FE 4WD 2.7L. Idle's great in drive and reverse. Occasionally when I start the car up it will shoot up to 3000 RPM until I shift into drive or reverse with a heavy thunk. Then it drives fine. When I shift back into park when I'm done driving, it will shoot back up. To avoid this, I just shut the car off in drive and then shift to park.The weird thing is, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Sometimes it starts right up and shuts down with perfect idle. However, once I give it some throttle in park in these instances, the idle will jump back and forth between 1500 and 2000 and won't die back down to 800 where it should be until I shift into drive or reverse. Not sure what's going on.
I've replaced the idle air control valve, purge valve solenoid, and camshaft position sensor, but to no avail. I also replaced the throttle position sensor a few weeks ago, but that didn't seem to do anything, so I took it back. I'm wondering if I maybe didn't do the correct installation procedure. I still have the old grey TPS for what it's worth. Should I change this? I've also played with the tension in the throttle cable, but I don't really know how to get it exactly within specifications. I definitely removed some slack. I just checked for vacuum leaks using the cigar method with a hose from the PCV valve with the throttle body sealed with saran wrap, but I couldn't find anything. My method was shoddy, and I don't really know what I'm doing, so I wouldn't rule out a vacuum leak by any means.
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Runs great in all gears 90'000 miles Now has a high level whine when. Accelerating even when. Still and in neutral. With. A/c. On or off sounds like a jet spooling up. When pressing gas pedal it gets higher in pitch as. You run engine up the lowers when you take foot. Back and off. All gauges fine no other problems with car. But. Worry some sound.
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This past Sat, when I started the car in the morning, noticed that the Gear selector indicator in the MFD is stuck. The display background is reversed and moving gears does not change the display, in the regular or sports mode. When I go from P to R (or D), I occasionally have a jerk. I drove the car car a bit since and no other apparent issues. It is a Triptronic.
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 truck. My vent selector is stuck in the 'dash vent' position. I can't switch it to defrost, floor, or anything else. This past winter I noticed that heat would blow well but only through the dash vents. Now that summer is well underway I noticed that the AC blows through the dash vents also, but it doesn't blow very cold. I checked the freon, topped it off (didn't overfill), and still have the same issue. I checked the fuses and all are good also.
Of course, moving the selector to Max AC doesn't work either. Does this all point to the blend door motor? I hope not as the reading I have done means that this is one tough project to tackle.
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I have a European Phaeton 3.2 litre V6 (gasoline) from 2003 that is giving me some problems. When I am finished driving I put the gear lever to parking position and turn off the ignition. I then get a message "Move selector lever to position p" and the key is stuck in the ignition.
So far, I have been able to get the error message away (and with that also been able to get the key out) by starting the car and move the gear lever around. Some times I have managed by only starting the system (by not holding my foot on the brake pedal). But tonight I couldn't get it fixed after numerous tries. I then simply waited in the car, because I didn't really know what to do, and after maybe five minutes the system shut down (energy saving mode?) and I could finally get the key out.
When I tried google the error message I found some topics about it on the Touareg forums, but they got the error message while driving and it had to do with the keyless system (which my car doesn't have).
What might be causing this problem? My local VW dealer is not very used to Phaetons (I am the only on in my town with one).
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There is always something.... I just drove my girlfriend's new 2003 ranger edge home from the seller. Real nice truck. I noticed the heater selector doesn't change the air flow. It is on full blast for the defrosters, and is also trickling out of the floor and dash vents. No matter where you put the selector, thats the only place the air comes out.
The temp control seem to work OK, when you turn it on cold, you get cold air and visa versa. Even on AC and MAx AC... air out the defrosters. It's cold when you turn the temp control to cold.
I did some searching here and gather some info on checking the vac lines etc. Everything looks in place but one detail. The vac ball under the hood under the air box has 2 ports on the front end, and only one grey line going into it. The other port has what looks like a rubber boot and part of a very short vac line broken off it.
I looked, I cant find any loose vac lines. I'd like to know if this second port is suppose to have a second line on it, and where does it go? What color is it? Is this the reason the vent selector isnt working?
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My friend has a 2005 Tdi touareg (WVGZZZ7LZ5D053023). The low range indicator in the instrument cluster keeps on popping, the low range and high range indicator in the center console near the gear shift lever keeps on blinking at the same time. Driving the touareg was really slow, and the low and high range still keeps on blinking. There is no MIL appearing on the instrument cluster but scanning with VAG COM reveals this fault code below. I tried erasing the fault code but it keeps on coming back after a few seconds.
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20081223
Thursday,15,January,2009,14:30:13:39739
Chassis Type: 7L - VW Touareg
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 1C 22 29 32 34 36
37 39 3C 46 47 55 56 57 64 65 68 69 6C 6D 6E 75 76 77
VIN: WVGZZZ7LZ5D053023 Mileage: 38400km/23860miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 22: AWD Labels: None
Part No: 0AD 927 755 AJ
Component: TRANSFERCASE 0100
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
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2002 F150 XL... My heat & AC work fine, but the only position the fan selector switch will actually blow any air is on high. Bought an OEM replacement switch and installed it but the issue still exists.
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So I had an issue with my hid lights, I replaced one ballast and 2 new bulbs and they work fine now but the passenger side is stuck on high beam. When i turn on the brights only the driver side gets brighter, how to fix this? I only replaced the driver side ballast
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My phaeton all of a sudden wouldn't rise up .I then took off the left battery terminal and let it sit for a while then put it back and then the car rose up and the back is on the normal level and the front is sitting higher its weird !.I have to mention that it seems my car has electrical issues because if it sits for about two days my key fob doesn't work sometimes I have use the actual key to open it.then once the car starts I have to reset the clock ,seats everything..Anyway is there a way to completely reset the whole system so at least my vehicle goes down.
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Headlight knob: rotated to OFF
Headlight lever: LOWBEAM position
Expected Results: headlights are completely off
Actual results: headlights are completely off (OK)
Headlight knob: rotated to OFF
Headlight lever: pulled into FLASH TO PASS position
Expected Results: highbeams on until lever is released
Actual results: highbeams on until lever is released (OK)
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After reading the book, I'm afraid I still don't understand. When the hubs are in AUTO, & the shift on the fly selector is turned to 4X4 high, or 4X4 low, is the truck in 4 wheel drive. What happened to free or lock.
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My 2004 Prius with 224k miles is throwing a P0080 code (exhaust valve solenoid stuck high). So, I brought it to the dealer. They just called me saying that the main battery needs to be replaced. My battery graph shows that it's ok and the hybrid functionality works flawlessly.
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