Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Grind When Shifting In 4WD Mode
Nov 6, 2011
So this is my first 4wd vehicle. I read that to put vehicle in 4wd when the car is running, put the car in neutral and shift the 4wd stick to H or L depending on the driving condition. When I do that, it grinds a little before slipping into the mode. Is this normal? Am I shifting it into 4wd incorrectly? Also, when doing normal road driving on pavement (no rain or snow), should the car be kept in H or N on the 4wd stick?
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I purchased my car almost two years ago. I drive a lot for work, and my car now has 74000 kilometers on it.
So far its gone thru 3 CV Axle Joints on the drivers side, a radio unit, clutch bearing, fork, and fulcrum, and now there's something wore out in the rear suspension (squeaking and snapping).
The transmission in mine has also started to grind when shifting like the syncros are wearing out. Motor knocks when it's cold, sounds like the top end goes dry of oil when sitting overnight and takes awhile to get any.
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I have had my 2010 Tiguan SE for about a month now and I have noticed a sound when it shifts that sounds like a tinny grind or rattle. This happens mostly in "D" not "S" mode and at the lower RPMs. Is it normal?
I took it to my dealer and of course they said they heard nothing, but it doesn't seem like something a new car should sound like.
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I have a 1986 Ford Bronco straight six 300 4 speed manual NP 435
She grinded a bit when shifting from a stand still but nothing terrible for an old rig but leaked oil bad from the rear main seal so I took out the tranny/t case to put in new clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and rear main seal. When I put it all back together shifting into 1st would grind like CRAZY. So would reverse but not near as bad. So I took it all back apart inspected everything even torqued the clutch to specification. Put it back together and same result. So I replaced the slave/master cylinder thinking the clutch wasn't pushing enough bench bled it and still no luck.
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So went today and bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 ext cab 4.0! Runs good some bad handy work that i need to fix but truck has plenty of power and good handling...
issue 1- 4x4 not engaging. the light by the push buttons does not come on and you dont hear the "clicking" of the relay trying to engage. so whats the problem and how do i fix it?
issue 2- when clutch is fully depressed and you go to shift (this is only sometimes) you can feel and hear it grind just for a quick sec. and forget about down shifting you cant do that without slowing down. so maybe new clutch?
issue 3- at 65 the vehicle does shake a little otherwise but pretty smooth. any tips on how to smooth it out? maybe new ball joints? tighten some stuff up maybe?
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When I back up in reverse with my steering wheel turned all the way counter clockwise, I get a rub in my front passenger wheel well. Nothing is hanging down or loose that I can tell in the wheel well.
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Got a 2006 GX throwing a P2445 code and car goes into limp mode. Is this the Air Injection Pump? Where it's located?
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Driving my 2008 460L and I get the brake sensor warning. Ok I've been through this before and know I have a little time left, but two days later I get a little grind noise. Then suddenly metal on metal what the hell is that noise! Turns out the passenger side rear lost a pad... it's just gone. The plate is left but the pad is gone on the inside of the rotor. The outside still had about 25% left. The other back wheel still had about 25% left on both pads.
I have 97k on the car and the rotor was turned on the last brake job so I assume I am done with this rotor and order a new one. Now the fun... I pull off the caliper and compress the cylinder on the offending pad first. The way I do this is with a big pair of channel locks I put one jaw on the pad and one on the back of the caliper and squeeze. It works a treat so I pull the offending pad and the dust boot falls to the ground in pieces. Great... now I put the channel locks on the other pad and when I squeeze, it goes in very easily with almost no resistance and the cylinder on the other side(with no boot on it) shoots out along with a bunch of fluid, probably 4-6 oz.
I decide to reassemble everything knowing I now need to bleed the brakes. All of the other wheels are normal and the brake job goes smoothly.
Frustrating part is here... how do you bleed the brakes in this car?!
methods I tried:Gravity - open the bleeder valve and let it drip, the dripping stopped after 20 minutes leaving no fluid in the line or caliper at all.
vacuum - I used the hand pump tool to try and pull fluid thru, got little spits and dribbles at best.
traditional - had my son pump the brakes, he could get a spongy pedal that bottomed out but never a firm pedal and the cylinder remained empty.
pump and suck - aggressive pumping of the pedal with the suction device on the hardline nipple. This resulted in a little fluid coming thru but no where near the amount you'd expect.
Now I have VSC, Brake Malfunction, ABS warning on the computer.
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I first noticed this recently as my wife was pulling out of the driveway into the street... The car wasn't cold, as it had been running for a bit over 5 minutes, warming up. My driveway slopes a bit towards the street and also has a dip/hump at the end of it. As she pulled out in R from P, I heard a thump. I also hear a noise which sounds like the brakes engaging. So in order, brakes engaging, shift from P to R, the thump then as it backs up and turns into the street, there's a slight, faint grind noise.
As the car stops to go from R to D, it thumps again. But as it goes into drive and pulls away..smooth as butter and quiet. I've heard and read that it's possible motor mounts. I'm wondering if the light grinding is the actuator...or perhaps dried out bushings in the control arms... Also read the possibility of the trans going bad, which I highly doubt, but who knows. My plan is to call Lexus in the morning and see if I can be squeezed in.
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Okay, to start i've disconnected my rain sensor so i do not have auto wipers, instead the wipers are intermittent when in the first, AUTO, position. with that being said....
When I was driving and had the LOW wiper position selected (not AUTO) and the wiper speed dial set to (-) , when the car comes to a stop or is parked, the LOW wipers switch to intermittent where they will pause in the (-) dial setting, for about 2.5 seconds. if the dial is set to (+) you do not notice this happening as the wipers re-engage too quickly. and then once you start moving again, the wipers return to the LOW setting and run continuously.
Does it also happen when your rain sensor still works? My guess is it's a luxury function so when you are nto moving, less rain hits the water, and you don't have to deal with wipers on a drier windshield making the low squeegee noise.
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Is it normal to feel resistance and binding of gears when shifting into L or H, when regular shifter is in neutral? One Lexus dealer technician said no, a different Lexus dealer said yes, and a 20-year private transmission shop technician said yes; the "yes" technicians said its because the gears are not synchronized and will grind and bind a little when shifting into L or H on the 4 wheel drive shifter. Car is a 2007 GX 470 and runs great.
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My wife started up my 2005 GX470 this morning to go to work and drove maybe a half mile before she noticed a problem. So she turned around and drove it back home in limp mode. She put it in park and got out.
Most of the Warning Lights are on ( VSC OFF, VSC TRAC, Anti Skid, Check Engine etc). I tried moving the shift lever but there was some resistance and some grinding noises. And it now seems to be stuck in neutral.
How to diagnose this myself? We only drive this vehicle in the winter, and it was fine the last time we used it.
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I have a 2004 GX470, fully loaded. When I shift into drive from park, all my doors automatically lock. However, when I park and shift back into park, the doors do not unlock...I have to manually press the unlock button. Is this how it is supposed to be? I have ridden in later Lexus's where the doors unlock when you shift to park. Or is there a switch or method to get the doors to unlock when shifting into park?
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Driving home from school today i went to put my shifter into tip mode to get on the highway and it just slid over way too easily. after that it just slides back and forth from tip to drive with the slightest tap or when im goin around a turn. Am I just too rough on my car?
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I'm getting some vibration and steering wheel shake with my '04 GX... I have a 2004 GX with the differential dynamic damper installed. About 55-60mph it starts, and shakes the steering wheel back and forth. Sometimes it's completely smooth, but on other road surfaces it shakes. On full "comfort mode," the shake is much worse, but on Sport mode it dampens the shake to about 10% intensity, but it's sometimes still there. This is not bump steer, by the way.
So far, I've done:
-Brakes
-Alignment
-Front hubs
-2x wheel balancing with 2 different sets of wheels/tires
-lubed the drive shaft and prop shaft to fix the clunk (Clunk TSB has not been done)
-changed the power steering fluid
-checked all control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar bushings. All are solid.
I recently jacked up the front end and moved the wheels back and forth by hand. It seems like there is some looseness coming front the inner tie rods. However, I pushed and pulled and can't get a clunk or anything. I think it's coming from inside the steering gearbox. My VIN says it's before ST002-05, so that TSB aka "Steering Flutter" would apply, if it is that.
After 104k, are the front shocks due for a change? It does seem to nose-dive a bit on braking, but the shocks aren't leaking or anything. Would worn shocks cause steering wheel flutter on these trucks?
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I have 142k miles on my 2005 RX330 AWD. This week I can feel the transmission slip/shudder when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
My local transmission guy is pretty reasonable but like most salesmen he's going to say rebuild it the entire transmission in lou of something less invasive.
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I have had the habit of manually shifting down to slow my 2005 GX since new. Only have 55,000 mi so not really a high mileage or worn out yet.
Now the other day there was a resistance moving into or out of a gear (can't remember which) at a time where I needed to get moving so used some extra oomph to try to complete the change and seemed to have a resistance ..... and then felt what I guess was something plastic break.
Now the selector does not stay in 4th when moved left but springs back to "D". Also feels as if the spring resistance is less. All seems looser.
What am I looking at for repair and what is really amiss? Where is a diagram to see the broken parts and how to access it? ---- Part #?
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I'm having a ton of fun driving in Sport transmission mode. One thing I'm noticing though is pretty rough downshifting from 3-2-1 sometimes. Often I hear and feel a clunk.
So I'm wondering if the transmission may not be adapted to me yet, since I've only had the car for 5 weeks, or could I be looking at an issue. No lights or warnings on the dash.
Also wondering if there is a way to "reset" the learning algorithm of the transmission without the VAGCOM?
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Right now it doesn't chance background shade when at night time, it always stays white.
How to change so that it automatically changes to black when in night time ?
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Every single time it rains, our 2005 Prius' brakes tend to go haywire-and just when we need them the most. They back breaks lock up, bringing the car to a jolt and throwing us forward. Sometimes it feels like it won't brake and then bam, a very hard stop. Sometimes they squeak and grind too- It never happens when it is sunny outside-only where there is a significant amount of moisture in the air. We've taken the car to the dealer three times and they can never find anything wrong with it.
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2006 GX470, ~65k mi. When shifting from P to R, P to D, or R to D, the transmission often (but not always) seems to have to think about it a while. When it shifts fine it takes about 1sec for the transmission to change gears. When it's being cranky it takes ~4secs. There are no other symptoms.
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