Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Grease Splatter On The Frame / CV Boot Clamp Leaking
Nov 1, 2013
I noticed a little bit of grease splatter on the frame last night when I was changing the running board lights. The grease was coming out from the clamp, no ripped or torn boot.
Maybe one day I'll buy the special clamp and crimping tool but for now I used some silicone tape. It seals to itself and it doesn't leave a sticky residue if removed. If you use this tape make sure you stretch it and pull it really tight as you're wrapping it so it can seal to itself. I used some zip ties just in case.
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I bought my 2008 GS 350 in March of this year, got it checked by Lexus of Edison at 70,606 miles (I purchased it at 69,850 miles) and everything was fine. So I went in for my 75,000 mile service and now they're saying that my LF axle is leaking grease from the boot and to replace it with a brand new axle it will cost $1773. Here's a picture from directly underneath the drivers side
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I was under the car yesterday changing my front brakes, when I noticed excess grease on the frame and A-arms. So now my question is, how much is this going to cost me at the dealership for the front axles both sides? I'm in the process of moving my family to the East, otherwise I'd do it myself.
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The rubber on all my CV joint boots looks really good. Really amazingly good, I don't see anything that looks like a tear or split anywhere, or even anything looking like weak spots.
And yet ... Both of the inboard joints are leaking some grease that looks like it's coming right out under the lip of the boot at the fat end, beyond where it's clamped.
Is that common?Even though the noise I was checking into turned out to have a simpler explanation ....
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I was replacing the oil in the transfer case and came across this under the passenger side. Power steering rack seems to be leaking through the rubber boot, but I have not noticed anything on the garage floor in recent months...
Can the boot itself be replaced? I hate to think the whole system needs to be replaced.
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just installed all my intercooler boots with plenum inserts. Had a torque wrench set at around 14 lb/ft and all of a sudden POP! the inside of nut on clamp stripped out. of course its on the boot going to the plenum. Any one have this happen? Brand new clamps from riff raff. Am I cranking to hard, maybe torque wrench isnt accurate, i don't know but didn't seem like i was getting on it enough to do that. the threads came out on the bolt looking like a heli coil. not to cool. Google it and another forum popped up , everyone was saying to crank em down. apparently you cant do that , not even 14 lb/ft. Anyways went to hd and threaded the bolt into their thread gauge. the only one that seemed to fit was 1/4-28 fine thread( which they don't carry in a nylon thread lock nut). Is this the correct size? How to gauge how tight to tighten the nut?
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While changing over to snow tires yesterday, I noticed the driver's side CV boot was split open with grease/oil everywhere.
Questions:
How urgent is this repair? Is the car drivable for a short while until I can get it fixed?
How much might I expect a CV boot replacement to cost?
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So the other day I was changing the oil on the SF, and I noticed a glob of grease (fist sized) on the passenger side of the frame. After cleaning up the mess it appeared that the grease was coming from the inner CV boot on the passenger side. From my position under the SF I could not see any obvious crack in the boot, and I also squeezed the boot and ran my finger around it in each of the bellows. I still didn't find any rupture. I then began to wonder if the boot had slipped off of the base of the axle. I pushed and pulled on the boot and could not really budge it.
In full disclosure I did change the front struts 2 weeks prior. My only thought is maybe I pulled the boot off somehow during that job. If that was the case though wouldn't I be able to move/dislodge the boot now?
FWIW there is no noise coming from the passenger side that would indicate the CV joint is bad or on its way out.
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Had a "Friend" who multiple friends suggested could install my VWR springs put my springs on. Long story short, the installation was a nightmare. And I should have just been patient and taken it to the local tuner.
My problems now are: Guy snapped an inner axle bolt off. CV boot is spitting grease everywhere. Car does NOT want to turn left. It will turn a little then it just wants to go straight. Am I guessing the last issue may be a broken control arm? What do you think? I'm calling the local tuner tomorrow and getting my car in this week to be repaired.
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2007 Es350 with 60k. Boot is not cracked or split and does not have any holes. It appears to be leaking where the big band is next to the tx.
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The clamp connecting the resonator and the catalytic converter is leaking around the edges. I changed the bolts and tightened the clamp but still leaking.
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I was driving along and all of a sudden it felt like the rear suspension was just not there it actually felt like it was bouncing on the frame. then it went away. I recently in the last year had the rear shocks changed with OEM shocks.....
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I have a 2006 gmc sierra, 4x4, 1/2 ton, has 155,000 miles on it. I recently changed both front hubs on my truck. They didn't have any play in them just noise. I had one new front hub that was leaking grease out of the rear seal. I took that one back off and got a new one. Must have had a bad rear seal. Now I'm getting a front end vibration at highway speeds. Between 70-75mph. It gets worse when turning left when highway turns. It goes completely away when turning right at highway speeds. It doesn't shake in the steering wheel. Feels like its coming from the left front area or left front tire. More in the floor boards. So i rotated my tires, and its not as bad but still is there in the same spot. I've checked everything.
Cv axles have no tears in the boots and aren't spinning out any grease. I turn the steering back and fourth while the truck was on the ground and I didn't notice any play in any of the front end components. The only thing I did notice was the passenger side inner tie rod boot had a bunch of grease built up on it. But the boot was actually full. Could one of the bad wheel bearings caused something else to go bad? Warped rotor? Truck doesn't shake or vibrate when braking either.
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So... someone smashed in the right front of my Honda Ridgeline about a year ago. Lot's of body work and parts of the steering infrastructure replaced. In for service and they say that the right-front inside CV joint leaking grease. Insurance, no problem we'll replace the axle. Had it done at the dealer, about 2 weeks ago. Since the, I have noticed a "creaking" noise from under the truck. Sounds like a metal on metal joint that should be lubricated but isn't. Only noticeable at very low speeds, stopping or accelerating. Maybe there other times, but hard to tell. Sometimes almost seems like a "clunk". FYI, I don't think this is it, but they also did a front brake job at the same time. 75,000 miles.
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I just bought a 2005 GX470 with 107k miles. Very happy with my purchase. The truck is in great condition, very well maintained, super clean, with lots of service records. Previous original owner did not skip any of the recommended items when it came to service, including T-belt, water pump, etc.
However, while inspecting the SUV today, i found one problem. On the driver side, the inner CV boot is torn and it is spraying some gray looking grease around. The passenger side, looks fine.
My question is... how hard is to replace the torn CV boot on these trucks? Do i need any special tools? Should i just replace the boot(s) or do the whole CV axle?
I've replaced CV boots on Nissan Maxima and old Audi in the past and it was a doable but time consuming task. Both times, i wished i replaced the entire axle vs dealing with fixing individual CV boots.
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I have just purchased a second hand Lexus Rx300. The boot isn't opening or closing automatically. It just beeps twice and makes a noise like it's trying to do something but that's as much as I get ?
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I just went to grab some things out of the trunk of my MK7 GTI when I put my hand down I felt moisture so I picked up the mat and I saw about 3 inches of water surrounding my spare donut.
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Patching cracks of the rear window frame? I am talking about the actual glass casing assembly and the cracks are viewable from inside the cab of the truck. I've found two small cracks and that is exactly where the water will stream in.
I was just about to pull the rear window out to replace the butyl seal when I pinpointed the cracks. So is it possible to use some RTV, form a gasket, or JB weld or something else to patch these cracks?
Are the sliding rear windows more prone to cracking? If so I'll probably replace the assembly with a solid rear window. Where I should purchase a replacement window?
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I'd noticed an oil leak drivers side and upon investigation it appears the rack has developed a leak. I lifted the car on the vehicle lift and when I did noticed oil pouring out of the boot surrounding the steering linkage coming from the steering rack. With the tires dropped the full amount this created a tilt of said boot allowing the oil that had filled the boot to drain out. My conclusion is the rack has developed a leak with the boot being full of oil.
I did a "steering rack" search but nothing of value appeared.
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Bought a 2013 FX4 two weeks ago to replace my 94 F150 and got to enjoy it for a whole 10 days before I got rear ended at a stop light. The car hit me doing between 30-40, fast enough to make her airbags go off, and it was hard enought to force the bed to hit the cab. Unfortunately, the damage is more than cosmetic body work. The bottom of the bed is pushed up under the bedliner and the frame is bent in front of where the leaf spring connects. My concern is that the adjuster will want to "fix" the frame and I will be stuck with a lifetime of alignment issues, suspension issues, etc. I know the rear of the frame is not as much an issue as if the front was bent, but I don't know how they could fix it without cutting it and welding in a new piece, and how can I know that the frame is true?
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I believe that I have a leaking CV joint boot in my 2006 Outback. Occasionally smell something burning. Lifted hood and had some smoke. Saw leak and a friend stuck a finger into a hole in the boot.
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