One of my exhaust manifolds has been really loud for over a year now, just at startup. Sound becomes more quiet as the engine heats up.
No lights on dash, but I do have emissions here so I'd like to get it fixed early 2016.
Curious what the shop charges for this install. Or if it's worth it to do both at once.
My 05 Gx has the infamous manifold exhaust leak on the driver side. I'm planing to change it myself I don't think it should be that tough.
View 2 RepliesI just had the Eurojet TBE installed and I notice the exhaust rattles loud at idle and startup... I want to say the piping is hitting something and causing this.... should i hang the exhaust higher.....
View 9 RepliesI'm trying to chase down the cause of a P0420 code and make sure there isn't anything else causing it before I take the rather hefty financial hit of replacing the cat. Since it's the first Prius I've ever even been around when running I can't tell if its exhaust makes more noise than it should, but it has always seemed to me that it makes more noise up near the engine than it should, so I'm planning (well, 'fogging' is probably more accurate given my plan...) on smoking the intake and exhaust. The intake is fairly easy- but the exhaust, the exhaust manifold is rather buried. Do I just need to take the cowling off so I can look down at it and see if it's leaking anywhere? I'm assuming I won't be able to see it completely from just down below it...
View 3 Replies2004 Landcruiser excellent condition 77K. Exhaust manifold/heat shield type rattle, intermittant but >50%time. ONLY when in Drive and at Idle at 6000rpm. Goes away any higher rpm. NO rattle in Park or Neutral.
View 8 Replies2005 Supercrew and my passenger side exhaust manifold was leaking. Son of a mother duck that was a joke to get removed. Front two studs broke off about 1/4" below the surface. Manifold is not cracked but putting a straight edge across it's out of plane at least a quarter inch.
Had planned on the dorman manifold but read some poor reviews about it cracking in less than a year and being warped out of the box. There is an ATP manifold with very few reviews but all good. Or just bite the bullet and do shorty headers? The driver's side looks a lot easier to access.
These trucks really weren't designed to be worked on after assembly were they? I had to invent new cuss words. Looks like Ford manifold is disco'd...
Truck has 107 thousand miles; had to take it in for an manifold exhaust leak. Mechanic said bolts are so rusted they break.
1) was there ever a ALERT from ford about these bolt's?
2) Thought i read ford had stainless bolts for this problem...
I've had F150's only since the mid 70's and this 04 has cost me more in repairs than ANY previous F150..
2004 SCrew, FX4, 5.4 ... I had the dreaded exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side. After reading the horror stories of this repair and living in the rust belt I decided against fixing it myself. I took it to a local repair shop to have done. Initially the mechanic could see that the front 2 studs were snapped off (before even trying to remove them).
After a full day of fighting the studs (engine loose & lifted up) everything is out but the front 2 studs. the top one has about 1/2" exposed, but it is frozen in place (penetrate on it overnight). The biggest problem is the bottom stud. it is broken off about 1/8" below the surface of the head. The guy doesnt have a small enough right angle drill to get between the frame & head to attempt to drill it out. I will gladly go buy a drill for him to do this, as it will likely save me money if it will work to drill out the stud.
Need to get the 2 studs out, particularly the bottom one, or what right angle drill may fit in there?
I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
View 3 RepliesLeaking exhaust manifold? The truck has a much louder than normal "knock" when accelerating. At first I thought and had some bad fuel in the tank. I eliminated that with a full take of good fuel and some STP but the "knocking" continued. Then I thought that perhaps it wasn't firing on all cylinders but it felt like it had full power. I took it to my mechanic and he said it as a exhaust manifold leak. He said that he has never replaced the exhaust manifold but that it was a "nightmare" and expensive. He also said that it's not a safety issue but on the long run the leak would cause the truck not to pass its emission test. He said the problem was with rusted bolts that would be difficult to remove.
View 12 RepliesI have an 06 with a 5.4 with 70k on it and I have already had to do the exhaust manifolds twice, once covered by warrantee at 19k, then again around 40k and now at 74k I have a major leak from the left side manifold again
View 1 RepliesMy truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
View 3 RepliesMy wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
View 1 RepliesAttempting to take this on myself. My passenger side manifold was replaced a year ago.....BTW This damn truck - all stock - no modifications of any kind - just turned 100k miles. One owner - me.
So I have removed everything I think I need to to gain reasonable access including the fenderwell and all the intake tubes and battery and coolant reservoir. I want to use some heat and try not to break the bolts but there is a thin wiring harness just above the exhaust manifold. I can't find it in any diagrams on the ford parts site. It looks like the glow plug and injector harnesses are up above near the intake manifold but this one is down below all that. It connects to small rubber thing - 1 for each cylinder. There is nothing else electrical near it - everything else is up top.
Now my rant - look away if you are a die hard ford truck fan or 6.0L powerstroke fan.
So far I've had to replace both exhaust manifolds because they burned and rusted right through. New transmission cooler lines -yes - rusted through and cooler (because we couldn't get the lines off without destroying the cooler). Cat got clogged (that was fun to find and fix). All 4 front ball joints replaced. Transmission dip stick tube rusted through. Several brake lines had to be replaced due to rust. The air conditioner quit with about 80k miles. I haven't fixed that yet. My oil pan is rusting through and needs replacement. Friggin oil pan! I have never in my long life experienced that. I know of other diesel pickups that are older with far more miles that live in the northeast, used for plowing and never garaged that don't have their oil pans rusting through. Just had to change both power steering lines that go to the gearbox due to leak caused by rusting through. EGR needs to be cleaned or replaced almost as often as the oil need changing. This POS needs to be out of my life!
Too bad because if it was dependable and wasn't made out of the cheapest crappy metal Ford could find it would be a great truck. Rides and hauls great. Plows great. Good looking truck, too. Standard cab 8 foot bed. Dark green. Just can't keep doing this.
A little background on my Prius, I have an 08 that has around 179k miles on it and have never had any major mechanical problem. I have always kept up with routine maintenance. I use Synthetic oil and change it about every 6500 miles.
So, two weeks ago, it was time to change the spark plugs again. Carefully, I took out the old spark plugs and installed the new spark plugs. On the second spark plug wire and spark plug, I noticed a little bit of oil, so I wiped it off with a shop towel, installed the new plug, and kept going.
Interestingly enough, now I have a problem where when I first start my car (and only when I first start it) and I just have the interior fan running (not with the A/C on) I get some serious extreme exhaust fumes through my A/C vents and that wasn't happening before I changed the spark plugs.
Now my first thought was, "Shoot, what the hell did I do to my car?!"
Here's the weird part, once the ICE has warmed up and shut off for regular "ready" mode, I don't smell it ever again even if the ICE activates as I'm driving. Note that at this point, I haven't made any changes to what fan speed or setting the climate is on.
As soon as I turn my car back off, then back on again by pushing the power button, out comes the awful exhaust fumes again.
So, here's where the testing stage comes into play. I have tried everything I can think of. Yesterday, my father take the air box off and we made sure all of the hoses were attached and the recirculation hose didn't have a clamp. We replaced the clamp and resecured all of the hoses in the engine thinking that there might of been a loose hose with the exhaust recirculation.
So I needed to replace my exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts and I didn't get the project finished in time. I have school today and have to drive my truck there and it is maybe 2 miles at the most from my house. Is it ok to drive that far with them open? I will finish putting the gaskets on today when i get home and then close them again.
View 5 RepliesOccasionally, when I start my 07 I hear a loud zip noise that seems to be coming from the front of the car somewhere. I know it's kinda tough to pinpoint. Something running against the teeth of plastic gears comes to mind.
I should also mention that it happens immediately after the engine has started, about the same time the self leveling headlights start to move.
Have had SC430 for over 10 years, 94000 miles. Have loud buzzer sound behind dash on startup or when key is turned to on position. The sound last 10-20 seconds and goes off. I have turned the AC off and tried different modes, no change. Everything seems to be working fine with the AC. Could this be a servo motor, the noise is not coming from the engine compartment. Any thoughts on problem and how to fix it. It makes this sound on every startup.
View 4 RepliesIrritating lifter noise that is pretty loud when I cold start there engine in the morning. Have had the roadster for about 6 months and it has 122,000 miles.
I did not use the car for 2 months while I was away.
Just got my ark grip exhaust and noticed it being a little too loud in the cabin. I thought they were suppose to be pretty quiet inside...
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 F150 with 195,000mi. For the last several moths the truck has had a rattle on startup, some days it is barely noticable and only on cold starts, other days it is loud and occurs on every startup. The truck was most recently serviced at the Ford dealer and is filled with Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend and Motorcraft filter Every change before was either Motorcraft syn blend or Penzoil Platinum (I have always used Motorcraft filters on it) and the noise continued after oil changes so I don't think the drain back valve is the issue. I replaced the cam phasers, timing chains, chain tensioners, and guides about 15,000 miles (2 years) ago and the vct solenoids shortly after that. Here is an audio clip of the noise (I know the truck also has an exhaust manifold leak, I plan on replacing the manifold while im working on it
Is this noise the lash adjusters or have the cam phasers failed again (they were dorman parts)? If it is the lash adjusters, can they be replaced without removing the cams? will failed adjusters be obviously damaged? Should I also replace the cam followers? do i need to replace all 24 at once or can i safely replace only damaged ones or maybe just 1 bank (noise seems to only be coming from the pass side)?