Taking my car to get the brakes serviced this week. Every time I brake at a high speed the car shakes. I am guessing best case scenario I get the rotors resurfaced and worse case new rotors.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2003 Lexus Rx 300. Last year I had new brakes and I think the rotors were worked on. I also got new tires on all 4 wheels. I have noticed a shake when I brake, mostly from high speeds. I just had the tires rotated and the shake is still there.
View 3 RepliesI have an 05 Camry LE & when ever I'm on the highway going around 50-80mph & need to break my steering wheel starts to shake until I either stop or put my foot back on the gas. Last year my power steering rack & one of my motor mounts got replaced, & for awhile it stopped & figured because that was going out that's what was causing it.
Well about a month later it started back up & still does it, I've taken it to the dealership & have told them & they test drove it, felt the same thing I felt but didn't find anything. Is there anything else that could be causing it ? Earlier last year my bearings were lose in the front, and I managed to get my brakes stuck & had that all fixed & since then that's when it started shaking . I took it back to that shop & mention every time I go in for oil changes at my dealership, is there something else I'm not aware about that I should ask them to look at ?
Ok,I have brought my car (2005 Toyota Echo) into the shop three times and they can't figure it out. I have summer and winter tires. Last summer the summer tires were fine, the winter tires were fine, then I changed the front tires, and couldn't remove the back tires (I hit them with a hammer and 2x4 and they didn't come off). From that point on my car has vibrated at around 60mph, but not 100% of the time.
I took the car in to the mechanic, they changed the back tire for me and balanced the front...still vibrates, they then balanced the back...still vibrates. Now they say the disk rotor is bent, and want to fix that but aren't sure that will fix the problem. What's going on, I changed the front tires and now the car vibrates at high speed most of the time, but not all the time.
My wife drives a 2010 Honda Civic LX sedan with about 18k miles. She mentioned that its steering wheel started shaking a couple of weeks ago when driving at about 60 miles/hour at the same streth of the road during her daily commute. She did experience the problem during rest of her drive at lower speed. I drive the car about once a week at lower than 45 miles/hour and had no problem. I have checked the tires and noticed nothing obvious.
View 1 RepliesSo I've been driving my tiggy with the rusted brakes from when I left it for a few months during this past winter season outdoors. I had VW check on it and they said that the only way to fix the problem is to replace the brakes (rotors and pads, I assume) for over $1k. Is there really no way to maybe scrape/sand the rusts out? Right now, when I step on the brakes, I have the pulsating feel and the car shakes when coming from a high speed. At first I thought it would go away after driving it a bit and stepping on the brakes since I did just that last year when I left it for a month during the winter season as well. If the only way is to have the brakes replaced, then I guess I have to shell out the money.
View 5 RepliesI've been noticing my steering wheel shakes if i normally brake going on the highway at high speed. My friend said that it's probably your brakes and rotors. Get them replaced and resurface and that should fix the problem. Can i get some confirmation before i do this?
1. I just had my tires replace at 55k and bought this car new back in feb 09. it has 62k.
2. also i've been reading up on camries fail water pump. i'm thinking of doing this over the weekend or should i just wait until i notice some leaks?
3. lastly, any major thing i need to be aware of. i've done the normal engine oil and filter change, cabin and engine air filter change, that's about it. i hope these camries are bullet proof like the old school (92-95).
The truck has been putting off a high squeal every time I crank the engine and when the A/C compressor is engaging.
My first idea was the accessory belt slipping on the compressor when its clutch kicked in. So I replaced the belt. The sound has dissipated a bit but is still there on initial start up and periodically while the A/C is on in the truck. If I turn the A/C button in the cab off the sound quits altogether.
My next idea is the A/C clutch. I prefer to work on my cars myself so if you can just replace the clutch without doing the whole compressor? The compressor works amazing and the truck gets ice cold in the TX heat so if I can keep it while just doing the clutch that would be amazing.
Lately my 2007 GX470's steering wheel has a shaking/vibrating problem whenever I apply the brake at speed above 50 mph or so. Without braking or with braking at slower speed, there is no problem at all -- everything is glass smooth.
1. I assume the front brake rotor is warped?
2. Will I need to change the rotor or is there a way to fix the warp (it that's the problem) without changing the rotor?
3. Approximate part & labor cost?
I plan to bring to dealer for a check up but would like to know ahead of time what to expect.
2006 GX470 57000 miles loaded. I purchased this new and I was wondering if anyone on here can give me a bit of input on what you may think is going on.
My truck when merging onto a high speed roadway my truck doesn't seem to want to shift into the next gear. Almost like if it was a manual I would have to shift it. It really whines out before it shifts.
Also My husband is hearing a humming/vibration from the rear when we are doing about 65 steady I've already had my tires removed and checked to see if I may have thrown a weight or a broken belt but everything is good. I have Michelins on the truck and they are about 2 yrs old. No damage on the tires I have them rotated every 5000 miles.
I had the truck in for service and told them about this. The Lexus service rep told me his mechanic told him he found nothing. I asked them to check again and he said the mechanic would take it home to drive it at a speed that was needed. Again I was told nothing was found. Got the truck back from the seat repair don't even think the truck was taken home.
I own an 08 Rx350 at 70k miles now. This is my first car ever; my parents bought it brand new and gave to me as gift after I graduated from college. I try to take good care of it; whatever the dealership tells me to replace, I replace it. I follow the maintenance schedule and owners guide to a T. I never really paid attention when my parents drove this car...but I don't know why my car vibrates when I get maybe above 60 mph and try to apply the brake. I do not brake hard and now I pretty much avoid applying brake and just let it glide. Is this normal? Whenever I visit the dealership they do a complete check up. All the check up results are normal;nothing wrong with tire trims, brake pads, suspension etc.
View 9 RepliesBig time burning smell in the cabin at the end of a high speed run. smells like belts burning maybe.
There's a stretch i take on the way home sometimes, and i can open up and get up to about 120 easily. did it last week and got a strong burning smell, kinda smells like rubber a bit, but it could be fluids... kinda hard to tell, but absolutely a burning smell. but i wasn't sure if it was me.
Did it again yesterday, car pulls perfectly fine, but the cabin was again filled with a burning smell. no CEL's, no nothing that i can tell. cools down perfectly and everything, no beats skipped. All my maintenance is up to date.
I have a 2004 F-150 SCrew Lariat 4X4 with 80K miles. Over the past month or so, every once in awhile there would be a loud metallic "clacking" sound (kind of like sticking a peice of aluminum in a bike's spokes) that would start at higher speeds and would turn into a low pitched whirring gear sound as I slowed down and eventually there would be a thud followed by a sensation of running over a small bump and the noise would be gone. Kind of confusing I know, but that is the best way to describe it. My gut feeling is a wheel bearing or transmission problem....
View 9 RepliesWhen I apply the brakes moderately at speeds between 60 mph and 80 mph, the brakes pulses and the car shakes. If I press harder, the intensity gets worse shortly and then disappears the harder I press. The front steering wheel does not shake so I believe it is the rear brake or wheels. This problem started after I changed the rear VW brakes rotors and rear VW pads and changed all four wheels with remanufactured VW Phaeton wheels. The issue must be with the wheels,brakes, or lug nuts. The tires have not been changed but they are fairly new from what I can tell. The front rotor and pads was changed by the prior owner and I've never had issue with them, they are fairly new and look to be OEM.
Prior to reinstalling the new wheels, I cleaned the rust off of the front rotor surface that makes contact with the wheel and applied high temperature paint. One of the wheels I had a run in the paint (and there is no way I can make the paint 100% the same thickness) so perhaps this has slightly misaligned the front wheels to the rotors.
When I did the brake job, I cleaned the driver side rear hub of surface rust prior to installation of the rotor. I did not clean the hub on the rear passenger side because the hub and wheel bearing was changed a few months prior. I did snap the plastic for the speed sensor for the abs on the rear passenger side. I epoxied the plastic back together and have no ABS errors when the car is scanned. Everything was torqued per VW recommendations. I also checked the calibers sliding mechanism (for left to right movement if rotor slightly warped or out of true) and they moved freely and was not locked up. The only part of the job that was not 100% by the book is I used a hand made tool to push the pistons in on the calipers so I could install the pads (I had to push and turn the piston roughly at the same time but was not 100% at the same time because the tool was hand made).
I've had the wheels professionally rebalanced balanced at a tire shop with a fairly modern balancing machine (digital computer flat screen readout). Originally the wheels was balanced with an older balancing machine and when they rebalanced it it was noted the wheels was way out of balance. I had a bad steering wheel shake and the car vibrated significantly prior to the new balance. The shaking improved greatly with the rebalancing but I could still feel a subdued shake in the seat of my pants (steering wheel shake is gone). Yesterday, I retorqued all of the lug nuts and found the driver side rear and passenger side front had one loose lug nut. Also it appeared that the lug nuts may have been installed with an impact driver and probably not torqued because some were very tight. I used a dial gauge to check both the rear tires and I have about 15-20 thousands of movement in each wheel when rocked side to side and top to bottom. Prior to tightening the lug nut on the driver rear, I had 100 thousands of side to side movement. Car now runs much smoother (maybe not as good with the original wheels and brakes but pretty good) after retorquing all the lug nuts, but the same 60-80 mph pulsing / shaking happens when apply the brakes at speed, perhaps even worse.
I've also checked the rear rotor and wheel runout with the dial gauge and I didn't have anything over 4 thousands on the rotor or wheel when rotated. My jig for the dial gauge was not the best since it was hand made and was attached to the ground instead of the car, so any dial gauge measurements could be off, but I would think they tolerances would be even better if I had a proper jig mounted to the car (not floor). The only thing that I haven't replaced is the lug nuts. Tightening them did seam to change the brake pulse behavior for the worse but did make the car run smoother. Could it be possible that the lug nuts are stretched and this is producing the behavior I'm seeing? I've head the ABS can cause a shake if the speed sensor is damaged.
So - I'm sitting at my VW dealership, hoping that their can figure out why I'm getting a high pitched, miserable squealing sound, every time I depress my brake pedal. It's metallic sounding, and with the history of brake issues I've had in owning other VW models, I just figured it was the brake pads they use. Sounds like their tech believes it is an issue with the tires??? I've got an 04 Phaeton with roughly 38K miles on it - and it's supposedly "certified"....
View 6 RepliesAt high speeds 70mph + there is a vibration with my 2006 Passat. You can definitely feel it at your feet, and slighty at the body. It is snowy and cold up here, I tried a few different roads, no change.
View 13 RepliesI think something is wrong with my brake. I only have less than 3k miles on my 2012 Elantra GLS. But now, when I apply brake to stop from either a very low speed or high speed, I always hear a clear click (only one) sound which probably comes from under the car or brake pad (front driver's side). It sounds like metals collision. When idling, applying brake does not make any sound.
View 12 RepliesMy car rides smooth until 75-80 mph. At that speed I get a slight but bothersome vibration. I've had the front wheels rebalanced twice and even got an alignment (though usually have no effect on vibrations) but it's still there. I didn't know what to think. Last nite a relative called to ask my opinion of the very same issue he is having with his 08 GS. Almost identical. He says his vibration starts at 80 but ends at 85. He is on stock wheels so my 20's seem less likely to be the problem. This is a recent occurrence. My car has been smooth for 4 years.
View 14 Replies2010 RX 350 NAP ... Brand New and OEM where it would apply : Tires (Conti's LX20s)
Brakes / Rotors (had same shake before replacing and did not improve after replacement but maybe I am dealing with a bad caliper here)
Tie Rod Ends
Stab Links
Lower Control Arm Ball Joint
None of which have solved a vibration issue thus far. Strut feels solid and the corner push test had the car settle out in less than 2 bounces.
If car has sat a while the driver front (where the issue lies) feels like a imbalanced tire/bent rim (rotated the wheels just to be sure it didn't follow the wheel/tire) or like a broken belt. The tires are almost brand new and only put them on because I was trying to eliminate the point of issue.
When braking, a light touch to the brake pedal makes a almost light clank sound (like weight shift is causing the clank or perhaps a sign of a bad caliper (although pad wear looks even but didn't have rotors rechecked but even with brand new rotors it was there so I don't feel it's a warped rotor plus the vibration is there even when not applying the brakes.
There is only one control arm and the bushing didn't look cracked beyond the normal surface cracking I have seen on most rubber bushing. The upper support is from the strut so perhaps a bad strut or maybe strut support/cap/bearing?
At a total loss as the local garages cannot find anything wrong. My thought was a bad wheel bearing, although there is not any grinding sound that you typically hear when a hub is going bad.
Could also be the CV Joint but not sure how to tell if that really issue the issue unless I replace all the other parts first (hub, caliper, strut/support/bearing).
Purchased a 2009 CPO from my local Lexus dealer 4 months ago. Had vibration in seat when driving at highway speed. Have had it in 5 times to be fixed. 4 times for road force balancing, fixing any imperfection in each wheel, etc with no success. Drove with GM this week and he agreed with the vibration and they put 4 new tires on (Michelin Pilot) - I paid for 2, they paid for 2. They said it fixed it. Drove it home (20 miles on highway) - did not work at all - still vibration in seat (rear end). Have put car in neutral at highway speed (drive shaft vibration?) but did not make a difference.
View 4 RepliesWhat is the best way to go about tackling these problems, need tires but don't want to smoke them with present problems.
View 10 Replies