Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Engine Started Missing A Bit Then Completely Died
Aug 17, 2014
2008 GX470..... Car died 3 times on the way...engine started missing a bit then completely died. First time n of Dalhart TX pulled off the road and restarted in a few minutes ran ok for about 30 miles died again. Restarted in a few minutes, filled up and drove 120 miles to Trinidad CO no problems....stopped at Toyota dealer in Trinidad, ran full diagnostics, said fuel mixture would run too high, car was fine now, maybe bad gas. Drove 150 mi no problem to Co Springs. Car died again climbing up to Breckenridge, pulled into gas station, shut down, filled up, restarted and no problems the last 100 miles into Breckenridge? Only commonality when the car died was that I was at half tank of gas. If fuel pump issue should full analysis have showed that?
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My recently acquired 2009 GX 470 has the passenger side engine cover missing. It is also missing the rubber plug for the tow hitch.
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As of yesterday the gas pedal started losing power completely. It only happens for a brief moment when I'm driving and only in the morning. The car does not shake, rpms don't drop and no check engine light. I'm not sure what's going on, I can't replicate it so going to Lexus is pointless at this point.I was thinking maybe its my fuel pump going bad?
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My hyundai accent 2005 is not starting at all. The battery is charged but the engine is not starting when i try to key the ignition. I had keyyed in continuously around 20 to 30 times but it just doesnt start. When i try to key in fully, the engine makes a sound and chokes.
I was told by someone that my spark plugs in the vehicle were wrong i.e. the genuine spark plugs were for hyundai elantra and not hyundai accent. the spark plugs were in vehicle for around 2 months. Can wrong spark plugs cause vehicle starting problems?
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One evening, I started my car but it shut off right after 2 3 seconds, then check engine light and battery light came ON.
Started again, it ran like normal with check engine light ON. After 2 3 miles, car started chugging & surging before the engine shut off completely. Started again, it ran just fine.
Next day, I took my car to the shop. They found out that P0351, 0352, 0353, 0355, 0356 codes. Then, they replaced 5 ignition coils for $600. But the problem was still there.
I took my car to the shop again, they replaced 2 variable timing valves. Cost $400. Unfortunately, it would not solve the problem. Third solution, they replaced my timing belt. Problem remained unsolved.
However, the check engine light turned itself off when my car ran fine. It turned back on again when my car started chugging & surging and stopped. It has been happening for 1 month. 2 3 times a day, especially in the early morning when the weather is cold and the evening.
At noon, my car just runs fine without any problems, even the check engine light turned itself OFF.
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Lets start at the beginning. About two weeks ago my girlfriend got a check engine light and the car started missing( 98 Passat 1.8T, 5 speed). Checked obvious things like fuel delivery-good. Pulled coil packs and had no spark on #2 cyl. Investigated more and found one of the pins on the ign. control module was shorted. Felt pretty sure that was the problem since everything else checked out. Ordered a Huco installed it and that fixed the problem except the car seemed slow reprogramming to the new part. I disconnected the battery to clear the memory and that seemed to do the trick.
About 2 weeks later my GF is coming home and fortunately it died in front of the apartment. Checked everything again. Getting fuel, no wires shorted on ign. or fuel harness plus they all get power just no signal when checking with an LED tester. Ign. module was good also. Checked speed sensor for resistance per the book it was good. Tried a new Camshaft Pos. Sensor hoping that was the problem, no luck. I believe it must be the computer. I'm trying to get one from a salvage yard. I don't know if the old computer can be reprogrammed or not. Also was wondering if the dealer(where I really do not want to go) can test the computer somehow and tell me if it is bad or not(don't know if I would trust them anyway), just wanted to include that option.
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Battery died and car (LS 460) was jumped started. Every warning light is on how do I turn them off. Car was running perfectly until battery was drained.
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Previously, I have had no rough starts or other starting issues, and no issues with my battery, which is 4 years old. I left work and had some errands to run--started my car, drove about 1/2 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 1/4 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 2 miles and stopped at a gas station. Started my car again and drove 2.5 miles.
This time, my car started fine, and I began to take off (moving forward--no car in the space in front of me) and after about 5-10 feet my engine died. I haven't been able to start it since. The starter is turning well, but I don't hear anything firing, and giving it gas as I hold the key over does nothing.
Where should I start? I have a video of trying to start, I may try and upload to Dropbox and post. Car is a 2004 Jetta GLS with 247k, and I currently have no DTCs stored (checked using a generic OBDII scanner, not a Vag).
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On my way home late at night, my tachometer started jumping a little, and the engine was rough. Then after another minute the lights dimmed and the engine died. It wouldn't start again. The next morning, it started right up, and it seemed fine. Drove it to the mechanic, he took it for a drive on the freeway, then after he got off the freeway it died again and had to be towed. The error code on the computer is P0326- Knock Sensor. I had the same sensor activated a couple of years ago, and my awesome mechanic (we have since moved far away, so I don't have access to the same guy) gave the engine a tune-up and replace the spark plugs and everything was fine (well, for two years). The car has been idling rough, and the intake manifold may be warped. Could the intake manifold cause this? Distributor?
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What happened to my 02 mk4 Jetta after start up and engine failure.
I started the engine, and noticed a high squealing sound just like a loose fan belt, as I backed out my driveway the Battery light came on and engine died, when I tried to re-start the engine it doesn't make any cranking sound just a whirring sound.
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We bought a 09 RX 350 that is a CPO, currently has 75 K on it. When the engine is first started it rattles like crazy and sounds like a diesel while the motor is at idle Once the car warms up it sounds fine.. The dealer tells me this is normal. Last oil change switched to full synthetic and it still rattles at start up.
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My 2007 Saturn Vue Hybrid died on Sunday while driving down the highway. The car has 101,500 miles and a brand new (November) battery. It was -5 degrees out at the time. Different engine lights started coming on, one at a time (the check engine light, the traction control light, the oil change light, then the seatbelt light) and then all of a sudden the entire dashboard went dark and the driving lights went out (it was close to sunset so we had the lights on). My fiance barely managed to steer the car over to the shoulder before it completely died. The hazard lights wouldn't even worked. My mechanic got it jump started yesterday and was able to drive it and said no engine lights are on, and everything looks fine. He does not think it was the alternator. What this could be?
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I've got an issue with my truck, I was towing home my camper this weekend and my engine started missing out and vibrating very bad, then it overheated... pulled over and check codes, p0263, p0299, p0300, p0301. Oil all over engine, tons of blow by, definitely a dead miss on cylinder 1. Smokes bad out of exhaust, zero power, and blows cap off of oil filler when loose, tons of smoke and oil from ccv.
My question is, could it be in the valve train? Or is it going to lie in the piston/rings? Blown head gasket? It did overheat, but didn't puke out of bottle, turbo timer kept it running for a bit after I shut it down roadside, egts were definitely high. Also the egr is deleted, have a predator programmer with custom tune for she delete.
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My v10 has a cold miss when i start it in the morning no matter what the temp. It misses until it gets up to operating temp.then it runs fine all day with a slight miss.
- Changed plugs,
- Changed pcv,
- Changed iacv,
- Cleaned map sensor,
- Changed tube to pcv,
No codes. Its running as if it had a carb and the choke is closed. No smoke, tach. idles between 750 down to about 500, until it warms up then tach. Stays steady.
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My dad has a 04 f350 6.0 and on his way back from a trip he filled up and drove 60 miles and it started smoking white smoke, after he let it sit a while he added fuel injector cleaner thinking it might have been somewhat bad fuel. Drove it 20 more miles and it it changed to black smoke and started sputtering like it was missing. Blowing a lot of smoke. Took it to ford dealer and they checked for codes and it said the #8 injector was bad and needed replaced. My question is would the injector going bad cause all the smoke and missing?
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I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean ....
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I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer with about 180,000 miles on it. It has been running fine, then a few weeks ago we got gas at a small little station we had never been to. The day after it started cutting out. We took it to the shop and they put a new catalytic converter on it. They said it also needed a new water pump and something with oil seals, so we went ahead and did that. It drove fine for a while, then the next time we filled up with gas it started cutting out and completely died. They put a new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires and distributor cap, basically gave it a good tune up. It's been driving fine. We filled it up and with in a few miles it start stuttering. At the stop light it rattled but kept going. drove it another 3 miles and it stuttered again. We are out of money and at our wits end!
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I own a 1998 Volvo S70 with a turbo. As I was driving the other day I shifted the car from 4-5 gear. After I had the car in 5 gear, it chugged forward. I pulled to the stop light and the car stalled. It started again and I made it home. I checked the fluids and they were low so I added oil and power steering. It drove fine for the rest of the day until later in the evening when it chugged again after shifting. I then drove it the next day and the car completely died at the stop light. I couldn't restart it. It would turn but wouldn't stay on. There was also a strange smell coming from the engine after trying to start it again. Ive been told possible fuel pump or maybe the catalytic converter because of the smell..
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I was driving my 2000 Subaru Outback on Friday evening and it completely died at a red light. Hazards wouldn't turn on, couldn't move the car into N or P, couldn't get the key out of the ignition. Because we were blocking an intersection, the police went to a nearby shop and had them tow it there. This is a shop I don't trust. What could this be, so I can be informed when these people call me back and tell me I need significant repairs?
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2012 3.6 SE... Might have left my lights on... Battery Dies... How do I get into the trunk where the battery is or to the connectors under the hood? I'm completely locked out of the car...
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I have a '93 Acura Legend type 2 which I love. However, last week I jumped it because I don't drive it much, unhooked the jumper cables, let the car run for about 10 minutes; I was ready to go so I turned on the headlights and the car immediately just died, like COMPLETELY. No lights, clicks or any electrical activity of any kind. Complete deathly silence. I assume it's either a main fuse, relay, or else (gulp) a short somewhere.
If this could be a fuse or relay, which one(s) it could be?
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