I only use AC in the summer around here, not year 'round. When I turn it on, I notice that the engine revs higher when turning the compressor, which cycles on and off. It's only a few hundred RPM, but it's quite noticeable and will make the truck surge forward when sitting at a traffic light. The dealer says this is how the AC works on a GX, so I've gotten used to it.
View 12 RepliesSometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
View 7 RepliesIn the past month for 3 times I've experienced problems with engine start (starter turned properly and I could hear fuel pump working). Yesterday however, I noticed that during full acceleration - at higher revs, engine suddenly loses a bit of power and at the same time you can feel kind of rattling or vibration in the engine. After letting off the gas pedal everything goes back to normal ... Besides, everything seems to be normal. Lambda control light does not light up indicating any errors. However I get a faulty knock sensor code 1-4-3. To my intuition the problem is with the ignition (but approx. 2 years ago I replaced distributor cap + rotor and the plugs + ignition wires were replaced about 3 years ago) or the amount of fuel in the mixture, but that could be caused by many things.
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 RX350 has 14500 mlles. After almost coming to a stop (5mph) and at times that I need to accelerate quickly while traveling at approx 30mph the transmission wants to hunt for the proper gear. ILO downshifting to the next lowest gear it does nothing but hunts for a second (seems like a minute with traffic approaching) then grabs a gear. Engine RPM revs naturally but too high. Dealer states this is normal for the hunting action. The vehicle is perfect other than this one small problem.
View 14 RepliesThe truck has been putting off a high squeal every time I crank the engine and when the A/C compressor is engaging.
My first idea was the accessory belt slipping on the compressor when its clutch kicked in. So I replaced the belt. The sound has dissipated a bit but is still there on initial start up and periodically while the A/C is on in the truck. If I turn the A/C button in the cab off the sound quits altogether.
My next idea is the A/C clutch. I prefer to work on my cars myself so if you can just replace the clutch without doing the whole compressor? The compressor works amazing and the truck gets ice cold in the TX heat so if I can keep it while just doing the clutch that would be amazing.
I got a brand new turbo installed on my 99 Passat 1.8T... i took it out of the shop and everything worked fine for a few kms (the turbo was installed by a mechanic and i was there for the installation, i made sure he connected all the hoses ext...). after some time I am driving on the highway with around 110 and i decide to pass someone so i drop it down to 3rd gear, the revs go up to 3500 and the car started choking up(exactly the same thing as if the Air Mass Flow sensor was disconnected or removed) the problem continued. I disconnected the battery to restart the computer, also i have a brand new air filter and a brand new gas filter. If the new turbo is pushing more boost could it be that the car is not getting enough air through the regular intake?
View 2 RepliesSo I get in my car, start it up. as i drive away i notice a whining noise, as the revs get higher the noise gets louder. so i push the clutch in and rev it. Got that same whining noise, gets louder as the rev goes higher etc... so i turn the car off come back a little while later and its still making that noise. It doesn't really sound like a belt noise,
It was the power steering fluid, thought it was low. I haven't checked that yet...
I am experiencing a weird noise coming from my 1.8T AWP engine. Its kind of a buzzing, and it gets louder with higher revs. Unfortunately its hard to hear while driving as I have an exhaust on it, but in a confined space you can hear it clearly.
View 4 RepliesI don't like the way my transmission switches gears, is it possible to make the car change gears with 0.5 revs more then what it is right now... I feel like Hyundai only considered gas mileage for this car and didn't even think about the stress on transmission and engine...
I want the car to switch gears on higher revs then it is right now..
2012 Accent GS hatchback... Automatic transmission
I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent 4-door 1.4L auto, 123,000 miles.
Before you ask: The high mileage is because it's used for a newspaper route. We(as in, myself and my father) take great efforts to keep it in as good a shape as possible given the amount of stress this puts on it - one minor deer impact aside, I think we've done a good job.
Recently(read: a week ago), we replaced the purge flow valve due to it causing stalls and difficulty starting after refueling. After a week of apparently fine operation, as I was nearing completion of the route, a very clear cylinder misfire began. Not the worst misfire I've ever heard - the car barely seemed to struggle on initial acceleration(except in reverse, which made me slightly concerned I wasn't feeling an engine issue, but a transmission issue), and only got really shaky at higher revs.
We have an OBD-II reader at home, so when I returned I plugged it and discovered not one, but TWO error codes: P0497 -low purge flow- and P0301 -Cylinder 1 misfire- with the reader listing them in that order.
Looking up information on these two being connected has turned up little support - I've only learned that either one can be cause and effect. Needless to say given timing I strongly believe that it is highly likely that we either made a mistake installing the new valve, or that the new valve was bad from the get-go.
We'll be checking the spark plugs as soon as we are able(I am about to go to sleep and my dad has work - we tag team automotive repairs since two sets of eyes and two brains can figure things out better and an extra set of hands is always good to have ready even if only one set can actually do the job), but even if the problem isn't the spark plugs, it doesn't automatically mean it's the purge valve, either - at least as I understand things.
So with the background out of the way, my questions are thus:
1) Is the spark plugs don't fix anything, what is the quickest way to figure out which error is cause and which error is effect?
2) Are there any serious risks to continuing to run the car in this state if a fix cannot be made immediately? (being able to borrow another car is possible, but problematic - need to stick with this car if safely doable)
Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:
1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.
2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.
3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.
In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.
I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).
I got a 99 jeep sport straight 6. AC works fine after topping off. Pressure 32 l/s 210 h/s could still be a little low but air is very cold. Problem is while drive compressor shuts off. I thought it may have been too low causing it to kick off. while in park & holding rpm's at 2k everything seem to be ok.
It cycled on/off at times as normal but then compressor stopped & didn't come on again. shut the engine off checked the fuses restarted & the air is back running like normal?? so whats going on do I have a bad l/pressure switch or may be a relay sticking??while at 2k rpm's l/side 25 h/side 250 then at idle 32 & 210. I don't think its low enough to cause the shut off but.....
Sunday afternoon I noticed my 97 F-150 4.2 5-Speed manual had a higher idle. When the AC compressor kicks in, the motor revs up higher than normal for about 4 secs then comes down a little. If you barely press the accelerator, I mean just gently touch it, the motor revs up for 4 secs. Dont have a tach, but just idling in neutral, is about 150 rpms more, and when AC compressor kicks in, rpms jump about 300 rpms i assume. Maybe vacuum, IAC??? Plugs, wires, and normal tune up done about 2400 miles ago.
View 2 RepliesWhen I am driving at a higher speed and I need to pass someone or accelerate, the engine bogs down. I push the peddle to the floor and nothing. This does not happen all the time but it happens. But when I accelerate from a light or lower speeds there does not seem to be an issue. I recently had the value gaskets replaced because of a small oil leak and it seems this problem began after then. I have taken it back to the shop but the problem does not duplicate itself when they test drive it.
View 14 RepliesEngine idling on D and idling on N/P. Mine sometimes runs at 600, sometimes at 650. When I steer, rpm should go higher but it doesn't go.
View 2 RepliesI'm getting an audible whine on starting up from the engine that continues low revs / speeds but disappears upwards of 30 mph or so.
It's only audible inside the car and not outside and is definitely not transmission as it still makes the noise when in P or N.
The car drives perfectly normally, no missing or other issues.
The spring (or let's call it a few warmer days) has finally came to Ireland and my sensitive ear started to notice rather quiet clicking noise from the engine. The noise gets faster (you'd get more clicks pers second) when the engine revs up.
It is not very obvious, the two mechanics I asked told me that they can't hear anything and instructed me to enjoy the sun - but I definitely can notice when the ICE starts or shuts down just by presence of this clicking noise.
What's strange, when it has been raining for some time I don't hear it anymore, the engine runs very smooth and quiet. It will keep quiet in the roofed parking garage too - so it is not the rain just masking the sound.
It does not matter if the ICE is hot or cold too. I removed the serpentine belt and have run the engines for a moment without water pomp - but the sound is still there... The oil and filter has been recently changed too.
Apart from that the car runs fine. I get slightly below the typical fuel economy (5.9l/100km = 40mpg(us)) but I think it is still OK: I run only short distances (5-10 miles tops) and decided to ignore the pulse'n'glide technique as it kept my focus off the road.
I've been feeling more and more, a vibration in the RX400 AWD. Just to be certain, I had the tires rotated and balanced....still there. My conclusion is a wheel bearing.
What I notice, from 60 up to 80 MPH (speed limit in WY & MT), a slight vibration in the car. I can't pinpoint if it's front or rear, but there is certainly one occurring.
So, is there anything else that could contribute to this or is it usually a wheel bearing going bad? I just drove 1200 miles over the holiday and didn't notice much of a change. Still vibration. Not so strong that my wife has noticed, but enough that I'm feeling it.
I assume it's just a complete assembly and can be changed out relatively easily. I've done my 4wd suburban so I'm guessing similar in work.
How to test which assembly is going bad? Front/Back....Left/Right?
2004 Ford Ranger revs the engine when you engage the clutch then when you place it in gear it's like the cruises on it want to drive without you touching the Accelerator?
View 4 RepliesI'm new to the Lexus family. I recently bought a 2007 rx 350. It's in wonderful condition. I noticed that when I go above 60ish, I hear what sounds like a draft or a static-like sound. I've turned the radio off, air off, turned on re-circulated air, made sure all the windows are up, but no matter what I still hear it. I had a small Honda Civic before so I don't know if it's getting used to the aerodynamics of an suv? It almost sounds like there's a "crack" that's allowing air to come through the but there isn't. I don't notice it at all when I'm driving around town, only really on the interstate. It's most noticeable when in the drivers seat. I wasn't sure if it's just the nature of the ventilation system of this vehicle or should I have it checked? Am I just over analyzing?
View 6 RepliesWhen the car is cold it runs fine. After driving for 10-15 minutes the transmission slips, while driving the engine revs and then engages again.I have only noticed the disengaging/engaging as speeds less than 40 MPH. When the car is in neutral and placed into drive it may take several seconds to engage which happens about 60% of the time. Could this be a sensor failure or time for a new transmission?
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