Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Codes P0118 / P2111 / P2119 - Car Starts Then Dies After A Second Or Two
May 9, 2016
I mentioned earlier that a rat got at some wires in my truck. I took few things apart and the only visible issue with wires I could find , besides my hid set up, was an engine coolant temperature sensor which threw P0118 code. Can this or those other codes p2111, 2119 will prevent the car from running? It starts? And then after a second or two dies. I'm wondering if prolonged short of the buttery could have caused a burn to some fuses associated with the throttle body control system? I looked at fuse box and can't figure out what solunoid/fuses are associated with the throttle system.
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We've owned the 2009 LX570 (approx 101k miles) for about a month now. The vehicle has run fine, no issues. This morning it started very briefly (.25sec) then quit. Same thing over and over. I charged the battery, had it load tested and it all checks out fine. I cleared codes and rechecked it. No standard OBDII codes show, only the enhanced codes. Dash shows a CEL. We drove the vehicle yesterday a few times and all was fine...normal acceleration, started, etc. Then, this morning, it went down. I also pulled the MAF, cleaned it, reinstalled. Pulled the intake tube, cleaned the throttle body butterfly and corresponding area around the butterfly. It was slightly dirty but looked normal.
Here's what I have for codes:
P0300 Random Misfire Detected
P0011 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0012 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0014 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0015 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0016 Camshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A
P0017 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor B
P0018 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor A
P0019 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor B
P0021 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0022 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0024 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0025 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0032 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0052 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance
I am uploading a short video to Photobucket, which perhaps illustrates what's happening better than I can describe. I will post it up once it clears on Photobucket. Cranking sounds normal and I can hear what sounds like the fuel pump activating as well. I know that low voltage on a CANBUS system can make weird things happen. However, since my battery checks out, I'm not sure on this one.
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Just had AAA change my oil. Less than 1 mile from the shop my CEL came on plus all the other warning lights. I was able to make it back to the shop. They checked the codes and came up with P2103 and P2111. He reset the codes and drove the car. I then drove the car. The CEL did not return. He said that the ECM maybe going bad or the wiring and I should see if the CEL returns before having it replaced. I have been driving the car for two days at both high and low speeds, up and down hills without the CEL returning. My wife drives the car on the interstate going to work. I don't want her to have the car loose power during high speed rush hour driving. Should I just go ahead and have the dealer replace the faulty module?
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My 08 2.4l sonata gls won't start. I started it this morning to warm it up while I cleared off all the snow, it was running for about ten minutes. I turned it off and about twenty minute later went to start it and it will not catch. All the electronics are running and the engine turns over but it won't start. I replaced the battery in December, the oil was changed last week as well as the air filter. It has 93k miles on it. What could be the problem? I did go borrow a diagnostic scanner and it is throwing a P2110 P2118 and P2119 code.
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Truck starts great, and runs and idles fine until it warms up. This could be 15-20 minutes of driving or idling. Then it just dies. Like dead dies, lose power steering, everything (ac and lights still work, but no engine). It had died while idling, it has dies while cruising at 45mph. Then it will crank but no start. After about a 45min to an hour it will start like there was not issue, and pretty much drive the rest of the day (even after sitting) with no problem.
I installed the Adrenaline a few months ago, but the truck ran great for quite a while before this problem occurred. I did have it shipped with a rebuilt IPR. Tonight, I rebuilt the IPR with Guzzle's kit, and stripped it all the way down. Truck died again.
I have not had my AE hooked up when it died (stupid me today). But afterward I have been getting a few codes: P1283 (IPR Control Circuit) and P1212 (ICP lower than desired Engine crank or run).
When trying to start ICP duty cycle is about 64% and pressure is 185 to 190. If I unplug the ICP sensor pressure jumps to 2000ish, truck turns over faster and ICP Duty cycle goes to about 35%.
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Right after I filled the gas tank, the car will start for a few seconds and shortly die afterwards. Could it possibly be the purge control solenoid? Right now I'm completely lost...
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I've got a 2004 Golf 2.0 GL.....and for some reason this morning out of the blue when I tried to start the car to go to work it fired right up....and then about 1-2 seconds later immediately dies. I tried several times to start it....but every time it fired right up, then dies in a second or two. I also noticed that I'm getting the Immobilizer light on the dash....I'm guessing this is the problem.
Why would I get this all of a sudden? Did something happen to the chip in my key? Could the sensor in the steering column by bad? I don't want to have to load this thing on a trailer and take it to the dealership. Why would this happen out of the blue??
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A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
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Have a 2004 6.0 that stalled out while driving. Wouldn't restart. Took readings this morning. ICP was very low (below 100) and IPR was at 85. After a few times of taking readings I could get the truck to start up with an ICP reading over 500 but IPR was still at 85. When it did start up it would almost immediately die. Does this sound like an IPR problem or a oil pressure problem?
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This is concerning my little brothers truck. It is a 2008 4.2 liter with around 55,000 miles on it.
He drove it to work today, and called me this afternoon saying that the truck starts then dies a few seconds later, and the battery light illuminates. He and a coworker checked the battery and connections....cleaned off corrosion on terminals, battery reads 12.xx volts without a load on it, it is the original though.
As of right now he is changing the fuel filter which hasn't been done yet. I also know of issues with the fuel pump driver module. I remember checking the one on my 2005 back when I owned it. As I recall it causes a no start condition, but would it cause a start then stop condition like this? He will check this when he is done with the filter.
Anything else that we can check in a parking lot to try and at least get it home?
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I have a 04 late model F250. I have done the EGR delete, oil cooler upgrade, and blue spring upgrade. I have a SCT tuner but truck is currently set to stock.
My issue is it starts fine runs good but dies after about 2 minutes. No stutter or stumble. It acts as if some one just turns the key off. I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes and then it will restart. If I try any sooner then it just cranks but will not fire. This started about three weeks ago. At that time I would be driving and it would just die. I could slip into neutral turn key and it would fire right back up and I could continue down the road. As time has gone by the issue has reoccurred more often and now I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes to get it to start again but then as stated only runs for about 2 minutes and then dies again.
I have a scangauge and here are the readings I can get.
FICM main power is 47.5 - 48 volts at all times = good
FICM Logic power is 10.5 - 11.5 volts at all times = ???
IPR is 33% at idle = good Scangauge does not react fast enough to get info at startup.
ICP voltage KOEO 0.25 volts
Start 1.33 volts
Idle 1.11 - 1.13 volts dips briefly to 0.96 volts
ICP pressure Start 900+
Idle 830ish
Sync between CAMshaft and Crankshaft is 1 = good
Have not gotten fitting to do fuel pressure test yet.
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I just picked up a 2004 ford escape and information is difficult for me to obtain. Person I purchased from had all new suspension installed. Says it needs new transmission.
My indications: Vehicle starts right up dies/stalls with anything above throttle. Major lack of power. Was able to put in Reverse and it moved a bit and same as drive. Smoke from rear of engine. Seems like coolant dumping into exhaust. shake on exhaust you can hear slosh slosh in exhaust.
No engine trouble codes no lights on dash.
Am I looking at a headgasket? This has the 3.0 duratec v6 with the water pump belt driven by the cam on the driver side. Open up the oil cap there is the timing chain. serpentine belt is on passenger side of engine. There is no coolant/water in the engine oil but the coolant is disappearing FAST. no coolant on spark plugs that indicate its in the cylendars.
Was going to check compression but the compression tester I have only threads up to 14mm. to small for the hole. I can probably rent a tester with proper sizes if needed. Fuel pressure at the rail primes to 60 psi and stays there. Stays at 60 psi while running as well.
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This car had this problem about 4 years ago when my father in law owned it He had the dealer fix it and they replaced the gas pedal assembly i checked that and it is ok if i shut off the car and restart it the pedal works fine or about 15 seconds then back to idle
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My 2001 volvo S60 starts then dies.
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I've shipped my R32 back to the UK, the combination of cold and damp weather has taken it's toll on my car. I started it up Saturday and left it ticking over to allow it to warm up before driving it. The car is used to Houston heat, so a few minutes running will allow the oil to warm a little as the weather here is around 40F at the moment. The car ran for 5 or so minutes, then stalled.
The car starts to about 3 seconds, then dies. I have checked VAGCOM, the only fault is a steering wheel sensor (?). It has a full belly of Shell 99 RON fuel and was serviced just before if left the USA in October.
I have had it towed to the local dealer for repair. I have tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins to reset the car, it didn't make any difference. I have also tried another key in case it's s sync problem.
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I have a 99 Volvo V70. Sometimes when I start it, it turns over and then dies right away. It may do it once, or it may do it several times, but it will start start eventually. I am bringing it in to the garage next week, but they don't seem to think they will be able to fix it unless it happens while the car is in the garage. Since it doesn't happen every day, I'm worried that they won't be able to fix the problem. If so, why did your car die right after starting?
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We are looking for a 2005-2006 GX 470. I like all the options that come on them but I have always felt the more you have the more you have to fix. Some of the $ spent to maintain the GX is not a problem such as mechanical items. I like the vehicle enough to be willing to deal with the air ride suspension in the future. If the navigation system goes out does it take out anything else? I do not feel a great need for the navigation and was wondering if it should be a factor in our purchase?
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I've got this 96 neon. I can drive it to work and almost exactly 10 miles into the trip everyday I notice a subtle chug. Then it gets worst and within a couple of miles it chugs progressively worse until it dies. I pull over to the side of the road for 5-10 minutes. Then I can start it back up and run down the road another 3-5 miles before it happens again. I've changed the computer, coil, cam positioning sensor, O2 sensor, gutted the cat, changed plugs and wires. I'm to the end of my rope with this car. The codes that its throwing are no dice.
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So i start my car and it starts easy but after a few seconds it dies. I can get it to keep running by changing the fuel mixture but then it has no throttle and it will die if i try to use the throttle. It is 1985 VW Jetta engine in a 1981 Scirocco
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I have an 04 w12 with 80k miles on it. It will start fine but will not run for more than 10 seconds. As it idles down from startup it settles to about 700 RPM's where it normally does then dies. If u drive it it will start and go into gear fine as u go to pull away it loses all power and dies. I have checked the minor things i know like air filters, oil, tranny juice all appears normal. New batteries less than 3 months ago also.
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Have 2005 Phaeton with about 140,000 miles. Has run fine as long as I've had it at about 100,000. Last week it died in a parking lot after starting. It keep doing that all the way home.
Next day it started and ran a bit longer and then the serpentine belt broke. Replaced the belt and car ran fine for 10 minutes, parted it and the next day it quit after running 2 minutes.
Seems like it dies right after the computer systems cycle up.
I replaced the left side battery and keep the correct charger on it to make sure its fully charged. I start the car and it dies after a few minutes, then I notice the charger is charging the battery.
I checked the J367 battery control unit and its a D rates 2800 so should be the right one. I don't know if they can go bad. But think it could be the problem, not sure if they can be tested. Called my vw dealer and they say they need to whole vehicle.
The meter on the dash show 14 plus so I think the alternator should be fine. I did check to make sure all pulleys were turning smoothly when I changed the belt. Today I checked the Smoothing Capacitor and it tested fine.
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