Lexus GX 2004-09 :: CEL Came On And Engine Was Running Really Rough
Jul 8, 2013
So I've been sick for the past few days and my GX has been sitting in the driveway. I finally started it up on Sunday to run some errands and the CEL came on and the engine was running really rough. So I took it up to the dealership and had them pull the codes. It was showing a problem with the knock sensor.
I had to leave it until today so they could diag it further and see what the real problem was. Turns out I have a freaking rat in my engine and it ate my wiring harness. The service tech told me he jumped back when he took off the engine cover and saw an 8 inch rat scurry away. It is now sitting out in the lot until they get the rat out because they don't want it loose in the garage.
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My GX had developed yet another issue. To start off my car has an exhaust leak presumably at the head. Thats what i been told. This condition would throw a P0430 code ( catalyst system efficiency below ) once or twice a week, which id just erase with my plug in tool. Im not sure if the new developed issue is related to it, but now the engine is running rough especially noticeable between 1000-2300 rpm. Feels like misfire. When driving i can feel a drone or a frequent shake if rpms are in that range or when unloading the motor and rpms are dropping. No codes! Timing belt was changed at 90k miles car has 150k now. Not sure if its due for another one now and this can be the cause.
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We have a 2005 Prius with 77,400 miles on it. My wife came home from a short trip yesterday saying the engine was shaking the car and the CEL was flashing. About 4 months ago we also had the CEL come on but not flash and it ran a bit rough but not as bad as it is now. I was told by our local dealer that a flashing light is worse than if the light comes on and stays on. When this happened 4 months ago at 74,000 miles the dealer said they downloaded codes P300, 303, and 304 and that I needed to replace all 4 fuel injectors.
I realize that 300 is a general misfire code and 303 is a misfire code for cylinder 3 and 304 is for cylinder 4. After reading some advice on here 4 months ago, I cleaned my MAF sensor, ran some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of fuel, replaced all 4 spark plugs, and started buying Chevron gas. The CEL stayed off and our mileage went back to normal. I thought I had solved the problem but now this after 3000+ miles. I checked all the ingitors, connections, spark plugs, and wires yesterday and all seem to be in good condition. Maybe they were right and the fuel injectors are going bad. I am at a loss as what else to do other than take it back to the dealer now and plan do that this afternoon.
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I have a 2004 VW Touareg with 116K miles. Yesterday the check engine light came on and she is running very rough at low RPMs. The manual tells me that there is either a problem with the exahust manifold or an O2 sensor is bad. It feels as if she is struggling for air. When you start the vehicle the check engine light flashes then stays on in the cluster. What can I expect when I take it in to the dealership? Is there anything I can check before I take it in?
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I just had my 04 5.4l engine rebuilt. Ive driven it about 500 mi and it started running rough at a stoplight. I tapped the accelerator and it started running good again but service engine light came on. I pulled the codes and they were P0022, PO345, P0340,and P0430. It has done this several times now. Everything was replaced including the phasers, except for the camshaft sensors. Could they cause this problem?
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I recently replaced timing belt and balance belt on my 2004 santa fe 2.4l and now the engine runs like crap and shakes badly. I went over all timing marks again and again and I am at a loss.
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I just started to have this problem yesterday. Engine light comes on and stays on. Engine shakes and truck won't go over 50 MPH. Autozone code checker came up with P0171.
Truck has about 95K miles and I had the spark plugs replaced at 75K miles.
Transmission was rebuilt at around that time also.
I only drove it to Autozone and back today to post the code and see what everyone's opinion is as to what's wrong.
Here's what the printout says : P0171 "Fuel Trim Bank One Condition"
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Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
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2005 F-150 4.6L 2WD, 268,000 miles....
Recently I got a flashing 'Check Engine' light and a rough running engine (along with a tapping noise) when I was passing someone (and pulling a trailer). I retrieved codes 300, 304, & 305. I can't swear to it, but I think the tapping noise started at the same time as the coil problem.
I replaced coils #4 & #5 (later that same day) and the engine smoothed back out but the tapping noise is still hanging around. The noise speeds up at higher RPM's and doesn't go away if I shift into neutral. Oil level and pressure are fine and I only use Motorcraft 5W-20 and Motorcraft filters (and change the oil every 5K miles).
Not sure if this is relevant: I think I have bad valve guide seals (blue smoke after long idles) but no other problems that I am aware of. It sort of sounds like a lifter, but is there a good way to pin it down? Is it possible that this tapping is related to the bad coils?
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My Lexus Rx350 (2007) having problem starting the car when the engine is cold or switch off more than 1-2 hours. I need to crank the car at least 2-3 times to get the engine run. Once the engine run, i have no problem restarting the car with a single crack.
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Between about 20-30mph, on light throttle the engine/transmission of my 2006 RX400h makes a low groaning sound, sending a vibration through to the cabin. The engine just seems to be very rough at this speeds, like the engine is labouring. After exactly 30mph, everything is very smooth. It is also very smooth when running in EV mode at any speed.
The harshness/vibration only comes on when accelerating, so have ruled out tyres etc. The mileage is 85,000, and it has had a recent major service at a Lexus dealer. I use premium fuel.
The Lexus dealer had a look at the car for 1 hour and inspected the exhaust, engine mountings etc. but could find no faults. I went on a test drive with the service technician and he did notice the vibration.
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My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
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My 1999 lexus rx300 first threw a P1135 following a P0125, I tested the sensor and it was open at the heater circuit then then I was waiting the new part in the mail and during that time it kept running rough and then it threw a P0300, P0301, P0305, P0303. I was thinking that the PCM cannot monitor A/F ratio without the sensor so maybe the injector base pulse width was good enough. The misfire is are on bank 1, same as the bank 1 A/F sensor.
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My car recently started running rough (felt like it was misfiring). I took it to a local mechanic who went through all the normal possible problems and determined that it was a computer issue but did not have the equipment to diagnose it. I then took it to a VW dealer who said it was a bad ECU. They wanted a fortune to replace the unit so I sent it to a ECU repair shop in the UK. The repair shop said there was nothing wrong with the ECU and I have since put it back in the car which still continues to run rough. What else may be causing this issue especially considering that the VW dealer said it was a bad ECU but the repair shop said it was not?
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So- I take the variant in for a 65000 mi service- i.e oil change- and to get the recall done on the crankcase hose. I pick it up, drive out, and at first stop sign --- it starts running rough and engine light comes on. Take it back- they throw the computer on it and it throws a code for vacuum leak connected to brakes.. they take it back-pick up next day---they had to replace the brake booster (under warranty, extended-nice of em, I guess), because, they say, the cowling plug was plugged and water filled the booster. I HAD smelled musty water smell. But- why did it just go in the shop?? 60 bucks to unclog drain- W.
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We have been having issues with my son's 97 Sierra running rough when it is cold/damp. It feels like the engine is missing.
Today, which is warm and dry, it started running really bad and it was all he could do to limp it home. It seemed like it wanted to idle fine but when he tried to rev it up the tach would start jumping and it seemed like it was missing.
Could this be a bad cap/rotor? The engine has 200,000 miles and we've never changed the cap/rotor. I changed the plugs/wires probably 100,000 miles ago.
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I'm having an issue with a 2008 Passat 2.0T. Engine ran rough one day and check engine light came on! I get the VagCom out, scan the ECU and get misfire on cylinder #2 and #4. Car has 109 000km. Plugs were never changed so I order some new OE Bosch platinum iridium plugs. Go for test drive after having change the plugs and I still get misfire on both cylinder number 2 and 4.
I know coil on plug are prone to be weak on those engines so I go ahead and order 4 new coils which are pretty low cost which is good. Once install on the car I go again on a test drive. car ran really smooth and no check engine light came on. I said fine! I fixed the problem only to discover the day after that the CEL decide to come back on I scan again and this time only get misfire on cyl #2 with fault frequency of 39.
I suspect my injector to be bad but before I decide to remove the intake manifold and spend another 2-300$ in parts. Any way to test my injector with VagCom in order to see if that really is my problem. Also heard the PCV could be a problem but i hardly doubt it would throw a fauly code on just one cylinder.
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This weekend my CEL went on and stayed there. Everything seemed otherwise fine until yesterday, when the engine started running rough (like it is missing) and the CEL will flash on and off periodically. When I got home, the exhaust smelled like gas. I have an appointment with the dealer one week from today, and am driving my "spare" car in the interim.
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My 04 1.8t is running rough with the cel on. i scanned it and cyl 1is misfiring. tried changing plugs. seemed to work while idling but as soon as i accelerated it started running rough again.
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Mountaineer started running rough couple of weeks ago with engine flashing. Had codes read, got codes P0306 and P0316. I changed the coil pack of cylinder 6, engine light went away but still running rough. Decided to change all plugs. Found cylinders 2 and 3 filled with oil so I changed the valve cover gasket. Put back together, still running rough and ticking. Pulled every coil pack and metered them.
Every one reads .6 ohms across terminals and 5.6k from each terminal to spring. I'm assuming this indicates a good coil pack. I also metered the one that I took out and it reads the same. I've also looked for vacuum line leaks and listened but found none. The engine is rocking pretty bad and the exhaust comes out in the pattern of the "misfiring". Went to see if Autozone could read a code without the engine light on but they read "no codes".
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why my truck is running rough the problem I am having is when you push the gas peddle more than a 1/4 of an inch it shudders and has no get up and go and also if say I'm doing 40 MPH and hit the gas you can hear the engine rev up but I will lose all power and actually lose speed I thought maybe the cats were bad and I changed the plugs for good measure but I can't seem to figure it out also I had the fuel pressure checked and its pulling pressure is great/
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