Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Brake Booster And Accumulator Replacement Required


Apr 16, 2013

The wife's 2003 GX470 has some brake issues. High pitched whine and ABS and Brake lights went on, so I took it to my local lexus dealer which is 50 miles away. Anyway, the recommendation is to replace "brake booster" and "accumulator" with brake system bleed.

Then, says "may need master cylinder after that, will not know until that is completed

Then goes on to need timing belt, water pump due to miles (97K)

CV boots

Driveline service

[URL]..................

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Okay, quick run down;
2004 prius
Brake sensors, all 4, changed
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Still throwing codes even when reset by dealer. They have bled the brake lines 5 times, reset codes and still throwing codes.

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A few years ago I (for him) replaced all 4 calipers, rotors, pads, etc....things were good. Just recently he replaced his Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (not sure what led to this), but long story short everything is back together and he doesn't have brakes.

My GUESS is that the system needs a good flush, new fluid, etc....

My problem is I'm unsure how to bleed the ABS system. A few google searched indicate I need a scan tool, but is there another way? Can I jump something.

So my question, how do I completely bleed the brake system on this truck?

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The annoying buzzing from the brake booster check valve that comes from the left of the instrument panel when lighly braking (especially when parked or waiting at a traffic light) is a well-known problem, as it was the subject of a Lexus (and Toyota) TSB for 2004-2010 models(see link below to the clublexus link), and has been discussed on many forums for Lexus and other cars.

I just bought a new 2012 RX 350 last month, and within a week it started making this buzzing noise (left instrument panel upon light braking). I took the car to the dealer and without listening they said that they knew it was the brake booster valve (the noise is the rattling of a ball bearing when the valve is malfunctioning). They replaced the valve and the noise went away (the loaner RX they gave me made the noise even worse).

Well, 3 weeks later, the noise has returned!

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I have an '01 Prius with ~80,000 miles now. I bought it with a known brake issue, however upon further diagnosis, it appears the problem is with the Brake accumulator.

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I have noticed that when I open the door to the driver's side after the car has been sitting overnight that the pump noise is longer than half a year ago when i bought it used. It used to last for max. 3 or so seconds, and now it takes 5-10s - depends. I can get into car and almost get it into ready and then it ends.

Also, every second or third time i press the brake (normal, like when stopping gently) i can hear the sound of the pump for around 2 seconds. I don't remember that happening before so is this or isn't normal?

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My wife was driving my 93 Volvo 940 wagon yesterday, and the brakes suddenly lost power, and brake lights went out. I have heard no hissing from the booster, and I have checked the 10 amp fuse on the relay beneath the instrument panel. Hoping (and praying) it is just one of the relays. I have a meter, but not sure which pins to use to check the relays. Secondary issue: the used radiator I bought did not have the cooling fan sensor, so I have my fan on a toggle inside.

When my wife pulled over because of the brakes, she did not turn the fan on. Yup. Overheated. Now the radiator leaks from the rubber/plastic plug where the sensor goes. Any pliable sealants that could withstand the temps? Cash is in very short supply right now. That is my main issue right now, trying to drive with no brake lights. No ABS light, and no brake light coming on on the dash. Bulbs are good. ABS light does not come on at all with ignition, but bulb tests good. Just hard brakes, and no brake lights.

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2006 GS430 110K miles. Did Front brake pad change by myself. Now ABS , brake warning lamps come on.

Bring it to Lexus dealer. They found 3 code on it. C1203, C1336, C1345

After performed the Zero Point Calibration, the DTC C1345 remains.

I felt so bad. They want to charged me another $185 in order to find out the problem after I have paid $130. But i am out of pocket. So drive car back to home. I don't think i did anything wrong while changing brake pad. Just remove the caliper and push the piston back.

Detail of the Code:

C1203 engine control system communication fault
C1336 zero point calibration Yaw rate sensor undone
C1345 Linear valve offset not learned.

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After, I took it to a local dealer. They told me "Transmission Replacement is required," and Internal Slippage and Fluid Burnt.

I just don't understand, how the transmission began to act up after I changed the oil.

I can reverse the car great, and shift to drive.

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