Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Brake Booster And Accumulator Replacement Required
Apr 16, 2013
The wife's 2003 GX470 has some brake issues. High pitched whine and ABS and Brake lights went on, so I took it to my local lexus dealer which is 50 miles away. Anyway, the recommendation is to replace "brake booster" and "accumulator" with brake system bleed.
Then, says "may need master cylinder after that, will not know until that is completed
Then goes on to need timing belt, water pump due to miles (97K)
CV boots
Driveline service
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We recently purchased a 2008 RX350 with 61,000 miles. We had a potentially dangerous brake failure when the brake booster unit failed. It was an expensive repair ($1400.) and Lexus has refused to stand behind the product.
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Okay, quick run down;
2004 prius
Brake sensors, all 4, changed
Accumulator changed
Still throwing codes even when reset by dealer. They have bled the brake lines 5 times, reset codes and still throwing codes.
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A few years ago I (for him) replaced all 4 calipers, rotors, pads, etc....things were good. Just recently he replaced his Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (not sure what led to this), but long story short everything is back together and he doesn't have brakes.
My GUESS is that the system needs a good flush, new fluid, etc....
My problem is I'm unsure how to bleed the ABS system. A few google searched indicate I need a scan tool, but is there another way? Can I jump something.
So my question, how do I completely bleed the brake system on this truck?
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The annoying buzzing from the brake booster check valve that comes from the left of the instrument panel when lighly braking (especially when parked or waiting at a traffic light) is a well-known problem, as it was the subject of a Lexus (and Toyota) TSB for 2004-2010 models(see link below to the clublexus link), and has been discussed on many forums for Lexus and other cars.
I just bought a new 2012 RX 350 last month, and within a week it started making this buzzing noise (left instrument panel upon light braking). I took the car to the dealer and without listening they said that they knew it was the brake booster valve (the noise is the rattling of a ball bearing when the valve is malfunctioning). They replaced the valve and the noise went away (the loaner RX they gave me made the noise even worse).
Well, 3 weeks later, the noise has returned!
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Have a rusty brake booster? My truck is an 07' with 55k. Brakes work great, but the booster is rusting all over. Should I replace? The lower steering shaft doesn't look so great either.... I'm trying to attach a picture, but I'm having some issues.
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I have an '01 Prius with ~80,000 miles now. I bought it with a known brake issue, however upon further diagnosis, it appears the problem is with the Brake accumulator.
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I have noticed that when I open the door to the driver's side after the car has been sitting overnight that the pump noise is longer than half a year ago when i bought it used. It used to last for max. 3 or so seconds, and now it takes 5-10s - depends. I can get into car and almost get it into ready and then it ends.
Also, every second or third time i press the brake (normal, like when stopping gently) i can hear the sound of the pump for around 2 seconds. I don't remember that happening before so is this or isn't normal?
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My wife was driving my 93 Volvo 940 wagon yesterday, and the brakes suddenly lost power, and brake lights went out. I have heard no hissing from the booster, and I have checked the 10 amp fuse on the relay beneath the instrument panel. Hoping (and praying) it is just one of the relays. I have a meter, but not sure which pins to use to check the relays. Secondary issue: the used radiator I bought did not have the cooling fan sensor, so I have my fan on a toggle inside.
When my wife pulled over because of the brakes, she did not turn the fan on. Yup. Overheated. Now the radiator leaks from the rubber/plastic plug where the sensor goes. Any pliable sealants that could withstand the temps? Cash is in very short supply right now. That is my main issue right now, trying to drive with no brake lights. No ABS light, and no brake light coming on on the dash. Bulbs are good. ABS light does not come on at all with ignition, but bulb tests good. Just hard brakes, and no brake lights.
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I have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
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I have a toyota prado 120 , that I understand is the gx470 in USA. The car have the dashboard cracked. I am evaluating buy a coverlay dash cover cap. I need the dimension of the gx 470 2007 dashboard in order to verify the size. The dimension of the dash near to the windshield is very important.
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2006 GS430 110K miles. Did Front brake pad change by myself. Now ABS , brake warning lamps come on.
Bring it to Lexus dealer. They found 3 code on it. C1203, C1336, C1345
After performed the Zero Point Calibration, the DTC C1345 remains.
I felt so bad. They want to charged me another $185 in order to find out the problem after I have paid $130. But i am out of pocket. So drive car back to home. I don't think i did anything wrong while changing brake pad. Just remove the caliper and push the piston back.
Detail of the Code:
C1203 engine control system communication fault
C1336 zero point calibration Yaw rate sensor undone
C1345 Linear valve offset not learned.
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I'm taking out the brake booster and i need to know how to take off the booster from the brake pedal...
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So just trying to find out if this is normal. This is my wife's car so I don't drive it every day. I started it up to pull out of the garage and noticed the maint Req'd light blinking, it blinked about five times and turned off. Does it mean anything? if so, what? Just rolled over 100K. We bought it in late january and all the PM was done just wondering if they reset the oil reminder or what.
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2 days ago I was driving my car back home and suddenly Check VSC System" Warnings “appear on screen, it’s the first time gotten this warning displayed while driving.
I went to one of Lexus Maintenance repair agency and they started to do the Computer check and following that an error message showed “Abnormal Leak in Accumulator” and he showed me the location of that part on my car Part No 44510-50070 & PK031-353 and the price of this part about 1600$ the Engineer said! Or to go for a second hand one..! I did some search and find out that this part it is not that easy to be damage..
my car is LS 460 L 2007
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After replacing the engine, clutch and pressure plate. Where the brake booster hooks up to create a vacuum, as I now have a very hard to push brake pedal, if indeed that is my problem. The pedal will not go down more than one half inch.
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How do you remove the brake booster rod from the brake pedal? The damn rod won't separate from that plastic housing. I've tried wedging a flathead in there but it's hard to see. I've been fighting with it all evening and finally gave up before I end up breaking it.
Found a DIY that just cut the rod to pull the brake pedal to remove it. I rather not do that as I will be reusing the one I have.
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My 97 F-150 (4.6 L) has developed what sounds like a vacuum leak under the driver's side dash somewhere above the pedals. I can't see anything obvious. It changes sound with various positions of the brake pedal, and I can make it stop with hard acceleration for a few seconds. The brake pedal feels the same. I'm assuming the problem is probably my brake booster, right? Or should I be looking elsewhere? If so, how hard is it to replace?
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I purchased a 2002 VW Passat Wagon two months ago. Upon Purchasing the Car the dealer notified me I would need to purchase a "Torque Converter." I failed to do so. Before I changed the oil, the car was running great! And, after the oil change. The car began to act up and the transmission would kick back!
After, I took it to a local dealer. They told me "Transmission Replacement is required," and Internal Slippage and Fluid Burnt.
I just don't understand, how the transmission began to act up after I changed the oil.
I can reverse the car great, and shift to drive.
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I have a 1995 960 station wagon and a brake booster that appears to be leaking. On the passenger side of the firewall. As close as I can tell the leak seems to be right where the gaitor (rubber covering a rod) is.
1995 960 Wagon
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i have a 2010 Prius II that had a recall in 2013 on the brake boosted. I had a new booster pump put on and now three years later it has brake fade again. I am told from the dealer that it will cost 1800 to repair. So how long does a recall last.
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