Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Binding Of Gears When Shifting Into L Or H
Sep 22, 2015
Is it normal to feel resistance and binding of gears when shifting into L or H, when regular shifter is in neutral? One Lexus dealer technician said no, a different Lexus dealer said yes, and a 20-year private transmission shop technician said yes; the "yes" technicians said its because the gears are not synchronized and will grind and bind a little when shifting into L or H on the 4 wheel drive shifter. Car is a 2007 GX 470 and runs great.
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2006 GX470, ~65k mi. When shifting from P to R, P to D, or R to D, the transmission often (but not always) seems to have to think about it a while. When it shifts fine it takes about 1sec for the transmission to change gears. When it's being cranky it takes ~4secs. There are no other symptoms.
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Lately I have noticed that the transmission is not shifting smoothly in the lower gears. I have 114K on there. Spoke to my service manager and he mentioned that it may need calibration. Doesn't sound right after all the miles?
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I'm I just purchased a SC430 2002, car make a clicking noise when shifting gears. Example when I turn my car on and shift from Park to Reverse I hear a clicking noise and then when I go from Reverse to Drive it makes a clicking noise. Sometimes it just goes away. Is it a transmission issue or if this is a common sound.
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I am coming from a 2001 Acura CL-S which is a 5 speed automatic, and that car wouldnt' change gears that quickly. I understand cars today change gears frequently to be in the best gear for fuel efficiency?
But I feel like my ES350 changes gears so much, even at the slightest speed change. Is this normal -perhaps it's because I haven't driven a new car since my 2001, 12 years ago! Even the slightest press on the pedal will downshift the car and into the lower gear, even on ECO setting. On my Acura, pressing lightly on the accel pedal didn't result in a lower gear, as I know the engine had more than enough torque.
I also love reliability, and this makes me think the transmission would have a shorter life span with all the shifting. I still haven't asked my dealer about how often to do tranny fluid changes (which I know is a different thread altogether about discussions about "lifetime" fluid).
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My 2004 Forester (73000 miles) with 5-speed manual, is sometimes hard shifting into gears. The Subaru agency says that there's 'not much left' on the clutch and I need a new clutch @ $1300. Does hard shifting , no clutch slipping, indicate new clutch is necessary?
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was diriving my toy1and was shifting from 3rd to 4th when the rpm reved up and the car would not take any gears to drive foword or revers my gears when you shift are engagging but no mvement also i dont have to push the clutch in to shift it will go with out clutching.
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Our 2004 LeSabre has the following symptoms - there's a clicking that occurs whenever the car is in motion, the car occasionally hesitates/bucks when shifting between gears (but not always), the radio sometimes does not go off when the keys are taken out of the ignition, we're losing about a quart of oil about every 2500 miles but there is no sign of a leak on the ground, we also seem to have reduced mileage (using more gas).
In this corner, Mechanic 1 (high price) - replace front lower control arms, sway bar, and bushing, front end alignment, throttle body gasket and EGR tube, oil pan gasket replacement, ignition switch replacement, brake fluid and coolant flush. $1900
In the other corner, Mechanic 2 (low price) thinks it's just the spark plugs and wires that need to be replaced, the wires, replace air and fuel filter, and PCV valve - $450
We had the oil changed about 2500 miles ago, replaced the air filter then. The oil change place suggested a coolant and brake fluid flush. I've used mechanic 1 in the past and they have replaced my head gaskets a couple of times and I suspect they are ripping me off.
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Every so often, my manual transmission Corolla will "overthrottle" during acceleration, especially shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears (and sometimes even 4th), i.e., the engine will race above the usual RPMs associated with each gear, just for a bit. This however, isn't consistent. I still need to check if the engine air filter is dirty, which I suspect could be a part of the issue.
The vehicle has ca. 124,975mi, and only started exhibiting this problem 2-3 months ago, and only in 2nd gear. Again, this issue is very intermittent, and sometimes I can go a week or two without any incidents at all. The regular maintenance (oil changes, cooling system maintenance, etc.) has been faithfully performed according the manufacturer's specifications.
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I just bought my first Lexus, picked up a 2008 GX 470 with only 35k miles!
I just had the TSB for the "Clunk" issue fixed and I had a tire sensor that was leaking and had that fixed.
The ONLY other issue I am having is that there is a vibration at between 1250-2000 RPM and it's most prevalent at 1500 RPM, but it is gone above 2000 RPM. This happens while in park and hitting the accelerator to get to those RPM and it happens in all gears while driving, which is especially annoying because the SUV typically is sitting right at 1500 RPM while driving.
The Lexus dealer thought the driveshaft TSB would take care of the vibration, but it didn't.
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I got a 2000 vr6 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission. When shifting up or down through the gears it doesn't seem to like going into first and second. All the other gears seem fine. I've tried adjusting the shift cables and changing the gear lube, but nothing seems to work. I've heard of the cable bushings going bad and possibly shot motor mounts ( I'm at 135,000 miles).
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i have an 06 passat in manual, to put things short i was racing a friend last year on the highway and went from 5th to 4th at 120 thinking it was 6th and let the clutch grab ...needless to say i messed up the clutch and 2nd 4th and 6th gear felt like i was shifting into oatmeal if the RPMs were too high, BUT they would still grab.
thinking i only messed up the clutch setup, i went and got a clutch masters stage fx300 stage 3 kit with the steel flywheel (plan on going big turbo by summer)
after the shop installed the clutch, im getting the same results, better grabbing from the clutch in all gears EXCEPT FOR 6TH! 6th wont engage at all
so now im thinking i actually damaged the actual gears.
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Stage 2 clutch with a diesel geek short shifter. I have started noticing shifting from 2nd to 3rd is difficult. Sometimes it will go into 5th when shifting up from 2nd. Not a lot of resistance but it is more than noticeable. How do I resolve this issue? Am I hurting my clutch if I keep driving like this? Nothing is grinding at all in between shifts.
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My car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic transmission. It was bought with about 79k miles on it and currently has about 94k miles. Last week I began experiencing rough shifting between gears. My CEL had been on for a few months but I wasn't having any performance problems so I ignored it. When I started having shifting problems I went to autozone to have the codes scanned. All that came up was P0441. I cleaned the purge valve and cleared the code. The CEL stayed off.
I continued driving and having shifting problems. The car slipped out of gear when it wanted to upshift. The engine revs until I release the gas. Once the rpms drop low enough the next gear would engage. This seemed to happen for every gear shift except 1-2. For my first few trips no CEL.
Finally, yesterday on my way to work I got a CEL, and it was intermittent, similar to other issues I had read about. However, the more I drove the car, the worse this problem got. It would not stay in gear while cruising down the road. I tried changing gears manually, revving the engine up and letting it drop to idle, but nothing would work. Luckily the car got me to work but it was a real jerky ride. Towards the end it didn't even want to take off from a stop. And it wasn't in third, the engine just wasn't engaging the transmission. It's like the car was in neutral. But moving the gear shifter didn't seem to work.
The car did not make it home, however. When I started it after work, it went fine for about 2 blocks and then started slipping. Within a quarter mile I couldn't even go in first. Turning off the car and waiting a few minutes, then going again would gain me some distance, but the car would start slipping again almost right away. I was able to turn around and park the car in my work's parking lot.
The problem is I have no way to pull the DTC's now because the car can't make it very far. If it's something simple like the input/output speed sensors, I'll replace those in the parking lot. I'm a DIYer and hate paying others for what I can do myself, but I may need to bite the bullet on this one.
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Wife's Santa Fe has an issue with it's shift points. Its a 2002 with 148K on it, never has had a CEL, fluid is changed every 60K. Over the past few months the time it takes to shift through the gears is getting longer. What I am describing is not an actual delay between the gears, but rather how long it is starting to take to get the tranny to even shift. Sort of like how a vehicle shifts through its gears when your at a stop, and put the pedal to the floor and just hold it. it makes no difference if your barely on the gas or half way down, still takes a way longer time that it should to shift. It is slightly worse when cold, but still does it when warm. Is there some kind of temp sensor or vacuum line or whatnot that would cause something like this? When it does finally shift, its normal, tight, no slippage or delay. truck runs great other than this.
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When shifting gears, mainly in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd while the air conditioner is on I'm experiencing jerking / clunking. When I shift it's not a smooth movement and produces a thump. The only way to really avoid this is by letting the clutch out very very slowly. It only happens when the A/C is turned on. Shifting is perfect when the A/C is off.
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My car is an automatic 1997 pontiac sunfire SE. 2.4L. I drove into a parking space and the car would not shift out of drive into park, or any other gear. I called a tow truck and the guy said that the "link" had popped out of place and it needed to slip back in. He also said the high heat (it was 109 today) can warp the plastic to where it will not stay in. He showed me this link and popped it into place. I was able to get the car to shift from low to park and then to neutral but it popped out again. So I know it's not the transmission. My question is what is this "link" called so I can get a replacement for it.
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So I took delivery of my ordered PP GTI about three weeks ago, When driving under light throttle, when upshifting or downshifting amongst the first four gears, the car makes a whining/ humming noise from about 1700 to 2300RPM. I lifted the front end of the car to check things out and noticed that the left axle makes some weird sounds. I'm hoping it's a bad CV, issue with transmission (not clutch related)?
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Is it ok/better/worse to skip gears while accelerating in a manual car? Example would be starting from a stop in 1st and going strait from 1st to 3rd gear. , I have a mazda 3 and i usually run 1st up to 3500 rpm or so and when i hit 3rd its around 1400 when I let the clutch out.
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I've had occasional issues the last year getting my 04 into 4WD, but at 270K on the original IWE actuators, that's probably to be expected.
I had new actuators ready to install, but took the truck out for a drive before doing the job. On a gravel road the back tires spun easily in 2WD, I switched over to 4wd and it was much harder to spin the tires- you could tell it was in 4WD- or at least seemed that way. I left it in 4WD and tried turning on a tar road and it didn't seem like it was binding at all. (I have an open diff in the rear, assume the front is the same?)
Anyway, I installed new actuators last night and took it out for another drive afterwords. I put it in 4WD and could IMMEDIATELY feel the binding when turning.
What I cant figure out is why I could NOT feel binding while in 4WD prior to the install. Could I have been in 3WD somehow? (04 Super Crew, Automatic, 4.6L, XLT- pretty basic pickup...)...
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My 1992 chevy k1500 blazer full size is having trouble shifting from 1st and 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I reset the linkage it did fine for a day and now it's doing the same thing but it almost goes into neutral while shifting into some gears. And seems to lack power, the 92 doesn't have cyanoids and the transmission was redone 2 years ago when I got the truck. Could this have anything to do with the fuel filter? I know the transmission isn't bad. The Rpms are shooting up way too high.
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