Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Battery Light Illuminated In Dash When Driving - All Power / Mobility Lost
Apr 14, 2013
Driving in city. First sign was battery light illuminated in dash. Then it went off, then back on. Radio shut off. Then all warning lights illuminated in dash. I'm still driving about 40mph to my destination. GPS goes dark. Tech needle goes to zero, then speedometer goes to zero. I'm still driving approximately 30 mph. Lost headlights. It's dusk. Lost all lights in dash. Slowly moving now and looking for a place to park. Now losing engine power. Coasting to curb. Lose all power and mobility. Call tow. Thought I could smell a slight electrical burn from under hood.
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Out driving the other day and suddenly lost power and dash illuminated the EPC and Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Did a bee line to my home and experienced loss of power and engine vibration. At traffic lighta it emitted large quantities of white or blue smoke that smelled like gas.
Connected to VCDS and had 4 codes:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
000769 - Cylinder 1 P0301 - 000 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
004874 - Cylinder Disabling
000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
My assumption was a bad coil, so I swapped them but no joy. Then decided to swap coils and plugs and observed cylinder #1 was filled with gas. Siphoned it out and it was able to fill about 1/4th of a beer bottle, or 3 ounces. Top of piston #2 looked slightly wet, but the origin could have been overflow from #1 via intake manifold. I'm thinking #1 injector stuck in the open position. Car is out of warranty so it may be on my dime unless I can convince dealer that this is power-train or emissions related. Best case, I need one or two injectors, oil replacement from gas contamination, plugs and labor. I thought about the worst case and it could be the above + a complete short block + catalytic converter. No tune, 100% stock
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Ok so first the battery light came on then all the other lights on the dash came on, ended up dying and we replaced the battery but the abs, esc break light and battery light still are on the dashboard. Also I can use the shift release to drive the car but other then that it is stuck in park. I was reading that the car has a atm but I don't know where its located.
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The battery light is on on the dash. I checked both batteries with the ground wire removed, and they show 12.85 and 12.84 volts, they are clean and not in need of water. The battery light will go out after around 15 minutes on the highway, but not around town, and if I shut off the truck in town, the next start is at a very reduced amperage. Alternator packing it in?
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Once this happens, simply turning the ignition off and then on again seems solves the problem. We've taken the car to two mechanics, one who said the belt was slipping and one who said the belt was fine!
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I was at an intersection and red triangle came on dash and lost all driving functions. Had to turn power off, then turn back on. Was able to drive 100 yards to a parking spot, but it went out again. Reset car again, then it happened 4 more times within 2 miles while driving. Had to call tow truck. Just kept shutting itself down. How to fix this. See picture below for the message I got when it happened. This is the first time my car has malfunctioned like this. I think maybe its throwing itself into park or neutral (judging by the P-lock message below) and cuts all throttle control to car. Has 105,000 miles on it.
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I am having a mysterious electrical problem with my 2004 Elantra. The radio and clock light come on over night running the battery down. It started last winter. I replaced the radio in the spring and the problem went away, so I thought the problem was solved.
This past week the temperature got very cold at night for the first time since I replaced the radio, and the problem happened again. The next morning I drove the car for a few miles, came home, turned the car off, and the radio and clock light turned off as they should. I drove the car several times during the day and everything worked ok. I checked the car at midnight, and everything was still ok. The next morning the radio and the clock light were on again. This has occurred again each day for the last 2 days.
So it appears the electrical problem has something to do with the car being cold over night. How to resolve this problem - besides moving to a warmer climate.
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Every time I stop fairly quickly my battery light comes on and I loose all power. Lights, power steering, everything goes... Is this a connection problem? Its not the battery since I have to turn my car off and start it again for it to be alright.. What's going on?
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Had the dealer do my brakes and oil change today (sat). Since I couldn't get back before mid day closing, I had them lock the keys inside. When I picked it up, I noticed the CRUISE light was illuminated on the dash, however, it won't go off when you press the ON/OFF button on the steering wheel, and further, it isn't functioning. You cannot set a speed, etc, the lights around the speedo don't go on, etc. They mentioned that they left the key in the on position, and drained the battery, and needed to recharge it. Wondering (i) why this happened? Thought the T2 would disconnect the power if it detected a drain, and (ii) why recharging bat might have caused this.
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The emission light on the dash illuminated. The car has around 2K miles. What would trigger this signal? I have been using the premium gas. Is it now dangerous to drive? Are emissions covered by the warranty?
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I have 2005 Prius with 110k. Yesterday, red triangle and check engine light came on and I lost power while driving...SCARY. Took it by dealership. They called this am and said it needed a new HV-ECU and that would cost $800. The error codes they gave me were P0A78 and P0A94. Anything else I should ask them to look at? I'm wondering if the HV ECU is something I could buy used and install myself? I'm not a mechanic but am comfortable with most DIY projects.
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While I was driving my car suddenly was losing power.I tried to hit the "gas" pedal harder and it didn't react.It stayed on the same gear and after 2-3 seconds it was ok. After 10 minutes it happened again but this time I couldn't do anything. I thought it was the transmission problem so I went into manual mode to shift it down. It didn't work at all - I was shifting down but didn't have power so I had to stop. I stopped put in P turn engine on and everything came back to normal.It's worth mentioning that one time time I had to pull over and I didn't turn the car off. After couple minutes the car started to vibrate and died. I turned on and everything was ok. Fuel filter or is it something else?
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Warning - rant/venting ahead.
Yesterday out of nowhere the red Airbag light on the dash illuminated when I started the car. This has never happened before. I tried turning the car off and on, but it just came back.
The light comes on normally, then goes out. It then comes right back on at the same time the "passenger airbag off" light illuminates.
I made a quick check of the connections under the passenger seat and none seemed loose. I'm planning on taking a closer look and disconnecting/reconnecting the terminals to see if anything is obviously wrong.
I'm pretty mad that my Sonata has another problem. It only has 80k miles. I've owned it just over one year and I've had the following problems:
-fuel overflowing. I haven't been able to sort this one out yet.
-OCV failure. I replaced it myself.
-Lots of ABS and brake warning lights. Dealer eventually told me I needed a new ABS pump for nearly $2000.
-Now this airbag problem.
I'm definitely very dissatisfied with the reliability of this car. If I had it to do over again, I definitely would have spent a little more to get another brand. This has been the most unreliable car I've owned in my 13 years of driving.
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Our winter tires on the 2010 prius have the pressure sensors insalled in the wheels. Yet, ever since they were installed, the tire pressure light has been on on the dash. I have checked the tire pressures numerous times, and they are okay. In fact I now have the tires slightly over inflated instead of at spec, and it's still on. Do the sensors go bad in the wheels? We've had no issues with the system with the summer tires and wheels.
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The "Door Ajar" light on my Ex has apparently decided that I would enjoy having the little red light on the dash illuminated. Normally, I'd consider this just a nuisance, but it's convinced the interior and running board lights to play along so that they don't go out until they time out. I'm pretty sure that it's in the rear door somewhere. Where the sensor(s) are for the rear doors and how to test them?
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Quick Question: I was driving through my neighborhood yesterday and hit a pretty good bump. I as hit the brakes, a quick Yellow Triangle Light illuminated on my dash. There were no other warning lights that I could see and the warning light was only on for a split-second. What could've caused this? BTW, I have a 2013 Prius LB 3 purchased new in August w/ only 1230 miles as of today...
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My amber ABS dash light in my 2003 F150 came on the other day. I changed out the rear pumpkin sensor, ohmed the front wheel sensors (they were within specs posted in FTE forum) and changed out the master cylinder pressure switch under the hood (my left/rear bulb was burnt out around the same time the ABS light came on). After doing all this the light remains....so I had the ABS code read and mechanic advises code C1206 was present. He recommended replacing the "dump valve on the frame rail". He also advised this is a very expensive fix so I might just want to live with the light being on all the time. What should my next steps be to get rid of the ABS light and get my ABS system working properly?
2003 F150 SuperCrew 4X4
4.6L V8 , 285/75/16 tires , 127K miles
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I have a 2008 that has always been dependable. 1 mo or so ago when driving, lost all power. Had it towed to Toyota and they replaced main fuse. 2 weeks later, would not start. Replaced 12 v battery. 2 weeks later, won't start again. Towed to Toyota again. (300 for the two tows, 225 for battery, 350 for fuse) and Toyota said working fine. No failure and they didn't find anything. No error codes. I need car for work and can't keep getting stranded and needing tows.
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Earlier today our 2012 Tig SEL 4M stalled on me two separate times. Each time I was backing up slowly, when without warning the engine stalled. The only indicator light that illuminated was the battery light. Each time, I was able to easily restart the engine and within seconds I was back on my way. I have a VCDS set-up so I scanned the car when I got home after the second stall.
There were no engine or transmission fault codes in the system.
There were two other fault codes: one in Address 05: Acc/Start Auth and one in Address 4C: Tire Pressure II
Of those, the only one that seems connected is Address: 05 Acc/Start Auth, specifically 1057035 - Antenna for Keyless Entry System: Drivers Side N116F 13 [008] - Open Circuit. It shows as an intermittent fault. My thinking is that the KESSY system ever so briefly looses track of the key transponder (because of the antenna fault), then since the car is in gear it shuts down the engine. Since the fault is intermittent, then it quickly restarts as if nothing happened.
Where the Driver's Side Antenna is located and can its connections be easily checked? Now, pushing this thought further, what happens if this were to occur at speed?? Adding to this, my wife has reported that at times that the keyless entry is a little off, meaning that KESSY won't open the door when she grabs the handle.
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I thought nothing of the ESP light when I was driving home since it just snowed another foot and it was slippery. But, just got home and when I turned the car off I noticed the displays are staying illuminated with the keys out and doors shut. Not the center info display in red the small ones to the sides .. One is the odo/km display. Are these related ? I disconnected the battery since I have to sleep and don't want to wake up to a dead battery.
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2004, cc/lb 6.0 ... I get in the truck and the dome lights come on, key the ignition and they stay on though they should go off, start truck and they still stay on until I reach 5 mph. Door ajar light is illuminated on the dash. If the truck is off and I open the drivers door, the domes will come on, they will not come on if I open the other three doors. I just replaced the switch on the drivers door and no change.
I held the trip button and started the engine. I kept tapping the button until "door 40" came up. When I opened the drivers door it would change from 40 to CO. When I opened the other doors, it would stay at 40.
I did notice that once I had the drivers door open and completely off the latch and my hands off the door handle, I would move the door and it would then change from 40 to CO. At this point the latch switch is out of the picture. So if i move the door slightly open/close it would switch from 40 to CO when the door is nearly closed. Is there another switch or sensor somewhere near the hinges?
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