I drove the truck a night before and all was well. 24 hours later no sign of power, completely dead. I jumped the battery last night and the truck started. I drove it around and came home started right up, this morning started without an issue.
What happened here, all doors were closed and dome was off. It is an Exide battery, I don't know how old the battery is, PO changed it.
Went out to start my 2007 at 5:10am and it was as dead as a doornail. (Well, almost...I pushed the button for the cabin light and it barely lit). I panicked. Pulled out the manual and figured out that the 12v was dead. Woke up DH (who was not happy) and then we followed the instructions for the jump - which worked. (Hooray!) Didn't quite understand the "hold the pedal lightly for 2000 rpm before starting the car when there was no engine running " part...but I did sit there with my foot on the pedal pressing it down a bit. (Yes, I follow directions)
The car has about 60k miles. I drive 35 miles each way to work Monday through Friday. Weekends I only drive it around town a few miles. It may sit one of those days. I do keep the headlights on all of the time, in fact I have never turned them off. I thought that once I powered it off, everything was off? (Except that little security thing). The car is the basic model.
The battery went out today suddenly. It's been 9 years for a original battery Panasonic. Called AAA and replace onsite with a AAA battery. So far so good.
Panasonic is really make good battery.
I just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
Last week, my 2005 FX4 Screw died suddenly, and would immediately lose all power to the gauges as soon as the jump leads were disconnected, not to mention the engine would eventually die shortly after that. After a bit of logical thinking, a buddy and I determined that it was likely the alternator, so we pulled it and replaced it. We also had the alternator tested, and it failed every single test, so it was pretty clearly the culprit. The good news is that the truck starts and runs/stays running again. The bad news is that my audio and 4x4 systems are both offline.
As far as audio goes, I'm guessing it's an easy fix because it's probably a fuse somewhere that got toasted. But the 4x4 is a little more of a problem. I tested the vacuum lines by pulling them from the hubs, and neither had any suction. Okay, the solenoid isn't getting power, probably another fried fuse, right? Well, here's where I'm getting confused.
My understanding of this 4wd system is that it works like this: When in 2wd, the solenoid engages the vacuum and pulls the part of the hub that locks in the wheels (not sure what specifically to call it) out, therefore disengaging the front 2 wheels. When 4wd is turned on, the vacuum disengages and that part of the hub pops into place, locking out the front wheels into 4wd.
So, by that rationale, if the 4wd solenoid isn't working due to an electrical issue, then my truck should automatically just be locking itself into 4wd, right? Because without the vacuum to disengage that part of the hub, it should just pop into place and keep the truck locked into 4wd. So if I'm correct in my understanding, then I have another problem because my truck is still operating very much in 2wd.
I did the classic 4wd tests: tight circle to feel the front end gripping/pulling, gun it from a dead stop to see if all 4 tires engaged. But I turned in a much tighter circle than 4wd would ever allow, didn't feel the front end grip/pull at all, and the "peel out" test only showed my 2 rear tires as launching me forward. I also tried shifting into 4-Low, but the truck never shifted into low gear either. -I know that's probably just electrical, but I'm just trying to be thorough in my testing/explanation.
Having a problem with my battery. 2006 GS300 AWD. My battery died a few days ago, to the point of no power to the car at all. Today I replaced the battery. After installation, the red battery light was still lit on the dash. I figured it would just go away. Earlier tonight I went out, and about 20 mins into the drive the nav screen started flickering, the dash lit up with all the lights, and the power steering went out, had to pull over and all the power just died. I turned the headlights off and everything else, let it sit for a few minutes, then once again, I could start the car, but immediately no power steering etc. I'm pretty sure there's no accessory on draining the battery?
View 2 Replies2006 GS300 ... Car died while driving at about 25 mph - Car was in Drive (D) when died and wife put into park (P) after she coasted into parking lot. To load onto flatbed had to use manual shift lock release to get to neutral. Battery was completely dead--Optima Red Top.
Changed battery and dash lights came on a system Navigation unit showed system loading and not to turn off power - it loaded and when I tried to start the car it would not start. Put car into neutral to eliminate the Park sensor issue and still would not start. ALL lights and systems are very bright as they should be and I hear a faint hum which almost sounds like a fuel pump staying on but in the engine compartment/dash area---very faint hum.
Tried disconnecting battery a few times and to allow ECU to reset and still would not reset. Prior to this the car was having the VSC issue with the transmission not shifting past 3rd - I know the solenoid packs are probably bad but not sure this would affect the engine start up.
Tried both remotes to make sure it saw key. It acts almost like it is not seeing a safe to start (not in Park) or neutral....
So it looks like the battery in my Key Fob has died. I've had some trouble replacing it, so for the past week or so I've been forced to use the physical key every single time. It's getting pretty annoying now, so I've decided to figure this out once and for all. From what I gather, the replacement should be battery number 2032.
View 4 RepliesBattery died and car (LS 460) was jumped started. Every warning light is on how do I turn them off. Car was running perfectly until battery was drained.
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2006 Prius that was a model car--no problems at all--until it turned 4 years and 1 week old in April 2010. Then my aux battery died on 22 April, with just 31,583 miles on the car, and was replaced at Downtown Toyota in Oakland, CA. My dashboard lighted up after hours, and since my regular mechanic (Art's Automotive) was already closed for the evening, I had it towed to downtown Toyota. No huge deal, except for the cost of the battery/labor. The codes were: C2318, b1421, b1200, b1207, and b1271.
4 weeks later, on 22 May, I pulled into my driveway, and 4 lights came on: the MIL, the VSC, the yellow ! inside the circle, and the Hybrid System Failure icon on the MFD.
I own a 2008 Prius with 87k on it. The factory hybrid warranty was good through 11/15 and on 1/22/16 the dash lit up along with the MFD screen. After research I thought it was an inverter pump. I got the call from Toyota that it was throwing a P80 code meaning it is the hybrid battery. The dealership told me that it would run 3200.00 for a new replacement. I called the service manager and had him send in a goodwill exception since we service our 7 other toyotas with them.
Toyota corporate responded they would cover the battery under goodwill but I would have to pay the labor cost of 450.00. I spoke to the service manger and the dealership is covering half of that which I'm only liable for 225.00. I'm not out 3200.00 but after doing more research the typical battery last 60-80k. Some are luckier to get over 150k. For those Prius owners approaching those miles beware that you might need a battery replacement. This will be the last hybrid I will ever own.
Got the triangle of death after letting the car set during my 2 week vacation. P0A80 and Battery block is 14.17V all the rest above 15.35. That's a lot of money to repair a car. Not sure if I want to cut my losses and move on or replace it and drive as long as I can.
View 19 RepliesLast night during the East Coast's snow storm, I left my 2004 Prius warming for 10 minutes in park. I have a newborn and wanted the car warm for her. When I got back outside to leave, the Prius had died. The check engine light was on, but that was on before because I need to get the oil changed.
I went to jump start it, but when I opened the hood, I could hear that the engine seemed to still be running - it sounded like the belts were still going. So I was nervous to jump start it with the engine still seemingly on. I waited 30 minutes and that noise stopped.
When I tried to jump start it, I couldn't get the fuse box cover off after an hour of trying at 10PM, in the snow and rain. So I gave up and will try again later today.
I have had my '08 Prius for 3 years and have little to no problems with it. This morning I jumped in to go to work and the entire dash lit up and then faded out and died. The only lights still on is the check engine light, Airbag light and the little green light on the Park button. The worst part is now I can not completely shut it down. I am wondering if it is just a dead battery or if this is something bigger. If it is a dead battery I am baffled at how it could be. I have AAA coming to jump it and I hope that is all it is. Sound familiar?
View 16 RepliesDriving to work my trucks radio turned off.. My abs light came on.. A screeching sound from front hubs.. Then I stopped abs light went off hubs locked.. Air bag light came on.. I hit the power button on radio it displayed low battery.. All interior options were off. Outside lights dim .. When I got to work I shut it off and tried to restart... Acted like battery was dead.. It's a 3 week old battery. I also noticed , it seemed like I could not turn off my head lights.. Switch did not seem to make any difference with lights. After being off for a mon. The lights got a little brighter. Is it just the alternator? I got no low battery or dummy light. It did have a mildly sluggish start.
View 5 RepliesIts not my car (its my father in laws). The other day his 05 prius (170k miles) shut off while he was driving. He pushed it home and I sent him a link on how to check the 12v battery. He said it showed it was low so he used his golf cart battery to go and take it for a test drive to see if that fixed the problem. In the drive way at idle his hybrid battery charge went up half way but when he went to drive it he got 1/8th of a mile down the road and it dropped to 0 then the car shut off again. He said the display says something about the battery (I haven't been over to look at the car).
They are sure its the hybrid battery, but if it was me I'd go to the dealer and find out for sure. My husbands aunt had her hybrid battery go out and hers did other things, like go into turtle mode and a/c blew hot. I think her inverter pump went out and she kept driving it till the battery got messed up, but anyway...What does my father in laws symptoms sound like? Is there any extra at home testing that can be done?
I was driving and all of a sudden the radio died, battery light came on, Power windows and interior lights died, gauges died speedometer went all the way up to 100. The Head lights, turn signals and heater work. When I got home I opened the hood and the battery was boiling.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 Prius @ 150k miles that randomly shut down today at idle.
My girlfriend was driving the car at the time and I received a call saying that the car would not start and she was stuck under a bridge. Apparently she was at a red light when the car died and it wouldn't start, so some people pushed the car out of the intersection. When I got there, the car started up fine, but I did notice that the traction battery was just about fully drained.
She mentioned that the car felt like it was in limp mode and that when she braked the whole car shook. After the car died, she tried to start it but it would just click, and it showed the red triangle. I've been driving the car for a few miles on and off the highway and no problems now and the red triangle never reappeared.
Past history of the car is just a P0420 CEL which is either the sensors or probably the cat. I just had the CEL re-read and its now showing in addition P0171 and P0121. I'm not sure when the P0171 and P0121 came up, but I did clean the MAF less than 10k miles ago.
Traveling approximately 40-45 MPH and my engine just quits. I was able to turn(very hard without power) to get off the road. I tried to restart the vehicle and it wouldn't crank over. After calling roadside assistance and the PD, I tried again and it stated. On the same day, I was driving home from appointment and it happened again, this time while accelerating from a stop and making a left turn. Same scenario, only this time the truck turned over a lot quicker than the first time. A couple days later, it happens again while accelerating after a stop and making a left hand turn. Now I call the mechanics and ask if this could have something to do with the module they replaced for my AC. They check out the truck and get a new module to install, which they did under warranty. We also left the truck with them to drive to see if it did it to them, it didn't. So DH takes truck and he drives it and it does it to him. Now though, with me and with him, the truck seems to start back up quicker than the first and subsequent times. We are going away for a bit and plan to leave the truck with the mechanics to drive to see if it does it to them since they still haven't had it happen while they've had it. I'm stumped. They were able to fix the ac very reasonably and a few other things have popped up, but this truck has been really good to me and I'm trying to drive it into the ground, so to speak, as it still has very low mileage for its age. Of course, the thought of it just conking out while driving is very disconcerting. I wait until the roads are completely clear to do u-turns and such, but in the back of my mind, I know it can shut off anytime.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Volvo S80 with about 200,000 miles and it died on me while driving. The battery is about 6 months old. The shop I took it to said the timing chain slipped and might have caused damage to the piston and head. Does this seem reasonable as the cause?
View 2 RepliesDriving home tonight went to take an exit and was over come with great surprise when my car didn't move haha. The power steering has seem to have gone. I got home and opened the hood, but due to the antarctic temps couldn't use my fingers to open the fluid cap. The little black box with the fluid seems to have a tick ticking every few minutes. Any thoughts as to what it could be. How bad is it to drive it like this till Thursday when I can make an appt..
I plan on bringing it to a mineke on break just to see if they can narrow it down.