Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Alternator Craps Out At 400 Miles?
Nov 29, 2012
The GX has 49k and I have not even owned/driven it for 400 miles when the alternator craps out. I am not really pissed since its a used car and these things happen. Good thing Carmax has a 30day warranty. They towed it to their shop and replaced it with a new alternator. The customer service was great and they gave me a 6month/6000 mile warranty on it too. My German cars had at least 80k before their alternators crapped out
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Happy owner of a TDI - SEL for just over a year. One week shy of my 40K service, the alternator failed. All repairs covered with my extended warranty. Tech said he hadn't seen another alternator go bad and certainly hadn't seen a 1 year old TDI with 40K miles! Any alternator issues? otherwise been quite happy with the car.
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So, upon taking my car in for a dead wheel and tire due to pothole incident, I was told that my alternator needs to be replaced. I am in a bit of shock as the car is only 2 years old and only has 16,000 miles.
The service advisor that I spoke with states that it could break as a result of charging a dead battery. This confounds me more, as I thought jump starting a car was not an operation that would take out an alternator.
Luckily this is a repair covered under warranty, whether or not this was a valid reasoning for the failure or an alternator. If so, what have been supposed to do if battery dies?
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I had to have a new alternator put in my SEL this weekend after being stranded in Maryland. Was on my way back to Pittsburgh and the alternator light came on and slowly lost all electronics. Roadside Assistance towed it to Hagerstown where I waited for a day to get the part in. Could it have been caused by a oil leak from my oil filter that happened back in July?
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My 2006 GS300 has oil burning issue after 80k miles now my odo is at 110k miles. I have changed my oil every 5000 miles, keep burning about 1 quart every 1k miles average. Literally burnt about 20 quarts of an oil with premium fuel. At 105k miles, I had replaced my bank 2 sensor 2 after the check engine light and vsc light came on, reset the code those lights came right back on.
Check the code again, found out bad cat converter between passenger side sensors. The recalls has been done at 65k miles at dealer. My questions are :
-What would be the cause of burning that much of an oil? No leaking on floor or bad smell.
-Is burnt oil causing the failure of cat converter?
-If I replace the cat, will it go bad again?
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I have GX470 2007 (100k miles) and last weekend I noticed that I drove 60 miles (on streets) and gas needle was down to 1/2 of tank. When I went to gas station to fill up, I was able to get only 5 gallons and tank was full. I drove another 45 miles (on the highway), and needle already was down to 3/4 of tank. I did not have this in the past. I was getting 12-14 miles / gallon on the street and 20 - 21 miles / gallon on the high way.
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I just got a 2009 RX 350 , and I noticed that driving home with full tank of gas that my range was only reading about 250 miles. This week end I filled the tank up and the range was only reading 253 miles, after driving about 130 miles the computer is showing a range of 208 miles, The tank is showing about 3/4 full. I am showing a average of 24 miles per gallon.
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So I found an 03 gx one owner and only 56k Miles on it. Nice truck. I noticed right away that the rear suspension feels hard and bouncy. When I adjust the height it does work but seems to take a bit. In the Low setting feels like it is on the bump stops. Not sure where to start, sounds like the level sensors can be an issue, so I will have a look at them. Feels like it is just going to the top height to me thus making the ride really stiff. I climbed onto the rear bumper and tried to bounce the truck and it is like a rock. Like the bags are over inflated.
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Looking for Instructions and pictures...
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I took the 2004 Touareg V8 to diagnose a groaning noise and they said it was alternator related. The car is charging and running fine. They've ordered the part and said its a 10 hour job. What this could all be about? I've got about 26,000 miles on it and have not had any serious problems. The main one was replacing the battery cable about a year ago. I've had a really good vehicle and enjoy it.
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I wonder how prevalent this problem is with Ford alternators. Sure looks like it was cracked a long time, like maybe from over-tightening. I was planning on having new bearings installed to hopefully take care of a periodic whine. Already replaced the idler pulleys. As much as I dislike rebuilt alternators, looks like I will be getting one.
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I have a 2004 Big X. Original alternator was replaced as it only was producing 9 volts under a load. Replacement alternator failed within a day. Did I just get a bad re-manufactured one or would something else cause failure?
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2004 F-150 XLT.... What the thread size and pitch are on the alternator pulley nut? Cant find a replacement nut anywhere and lost the original!
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Within 160 miles of having the 40k service performed on our 2004 V6 Treg, the alternator light came on, then almost immediately the CEL light came on and engine temp skyrocketed. Immediately pulled over and shut car off. Found that serpentine belt had broken, but showed no signs of deterioration (dealer agrees with that observation). Now for the worst - at least one, possibly both heads have warped. VW says too bad, belt is normal wear item, need new engine at my expense.
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I just replaced my battery and alternator this evening on my 2004 F-150 5.4L. After driving it around a bit, the idle is dropping to about 100 RPM almost to a point of stalling when coming to stop. It slowly creeps back up to a normal idle shortly after.
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My son's escape has been parked for about 6 mos... alternator went out and I refused to pay to fix it due to some disciplinary issues with him. Anyhow, yesterday I went out to go look at it and the hood won't open. When I parked it I took out the battery and shut the hood. Never had an issue opening the hood prior.
When I pull the lever, its real tight - like the cable is not really moving or if it is, it cant be much. I'm afraid it might break if I keep pulling. I tried having him pull it while I pushed and pulled on the hood, still stuck. I have no clue why or how it is stuck, but wondering on any way to get it open. I can't really see in there...through the grill or under the hood.
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Last night battery light came on. Drove 40 miles home with lights on. Today, it started so I headed out. About 10 miles of battery light on, gauge fluctuating mildly either side of middle, gauge suddenly drops dramatically. I turn around and head back. After a mile or so there's a terrible growling under the hood, sounded like it could be an alternator bearing. Just as I pull over, the noise stops but entire dash goes black. Popped hood, alternator spinning quietly and not hot. I drove back and it started stumbling and surging as the battery died and it finally quit almost all the way back.
I have battery on charger now. I assume the BCM is the regulator by feeding current back to the field? If so could the growling be the BCM feeding back a huge field and the rectifier bridge growing? And the BCM fuse blew because too much current to alternator field coils? Will it start with a charged battery with the BCM dead? I need it to run to get to the parts place. Which fuses do I need to check? Then, how do I check the alternator, wiring, BCM regulator to find original problem?
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This monday i found this horrible noise coming from the engine... My first thought was a pulley bearing, yet none of them at the front appeared to be the cause, and standing in front of the bay it sounded like it came from the engine itself (which would be really bad news). Well, i parked the truck until today and i went to check if i could find the cause. I used a mech's stethoscope at the engine and found nothing strange, turned the engine off and touched the pulleys to feel if any was getting hotter than the others... no dice...
Then took the belt off and tried every pulley by hand, all worked ok, yet when i turned the Alternator's it flashed a little spark every now and then (that was just a hint, i wasn't sure). To finally rule out the engine, i turned it on without the belt (that would leave all the pulleys out of the equation). It worked fine and made no strange noises. I cleaned several pulleys and placed the belt back, and turned the engine on once again, this time keeping my attention at the alternator, enough said, it made several spark noises and suddenly, i saw a cap flying of its back. It turned out to be the bearing at the back of the alternator, it was destroyed and losing shrapnel all over, take a look:
Now, need to know what is the part number of the measures of this bearing. (I'll take what's left of the bearing to the store, but i like to be sure of what I'm looking for).
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Within three days the alternator and fuse #23 blew. After replacing these and the fuel filter (because of stalling during acceleration), I took it for a diagnostic check at O'Reileys because the stalling while accelerating worsened, it wasn't shifting correctly and the O/D light began flashing on the shifter. It hit on these 13 error codes:
P7055
P0446
P0750
P0443
P0743
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P2195
P2197
P0423
P1747
I have researched each code (definitions, what to examine/test, and the locaton of each part). My question is that with this many hits is it most likely a problem with the PCM, or should I just proceed with checking each connection, wiring and solenoid individually? The EGR Valve tested fine and the alternator is pushing 14.6 v...
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My 2007,4.6 is making a whinning noise from the front of the engine around the idler/tensioner/alternator. What I have read it might be a problem with the alternator getting cold, I forgot to mention it's cold up here. Fixed by changing the alternator and did the noise come back as it seems to be a design problem?
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I had to replace my alternator (single unit) and after installation it seems only 1 of the 2 batteries is charging when I check them while the truck is running. What check or could be the problem?
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