Lexus GX 2004-09 :: Air Suspension Disables In Freezing Temperature
Feb 14, 2016
There has been below freezing temperatures here in NYC and I noticed that the air suspension is disabled when left out in the cold.
The fist time I noticed this was when the temperature was 15 degrees and while driving the ride was very bouncy. I noticed I didn't hear the air compressor coming on. I tried raising the suspension from "N" to Hi or Lo but nothing happened when I pressed the button, not even the light, it just remained on "N".
I parked inside the garage and after about 20 minutes I heard the air compressor running and felt the car leveling itself. I was also able to adjust the by using the height control switch.
I have come to the conclusion that the cold weather is causing the air suspension to be disabled. I'm thinking the suspension should work at these temperatures. Is there any DIY for removing moisture from air suspension?
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I have the dreaded "STOP FAULT RUNNING GEAR" message. Vag-Com shows Electical Fault in Circuit for both Left Front and Left Rear level sensors. Checked all fuses. Replaced both sensors....no change. Temperature started dropping below freezing, message goes away and suspension works. Temperature rises, message comes back and suspension stops working again.
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It only burns oil when the ambient temp is above freezing. Why would this be?
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When the temperature is above freezing, the Passenger Airbag light is always "Airbag Off" and the flashing red light does NOT engage, regardless of whether a passenger is sitting in the seat and regardless of whether the seat belt is latched.
When the temperature dips below freezing, the system works as expected:
No passenger: light is "Airbag"
Passenger with seat belt: light is "Airbag On"
Passenger with no seat belt: light is "Airbag On" with red flashing seat belt sign
I can't imagine the issue is related to a component inside the passenger compartment (the seat weight or latch sensors), as the temperature inside the vehicle is usually above 60 F. That said, are there any components outside the compartment (under the car or in the engine compartment) that could be causing this behavior? Is this a water freezing/unfreezing issue, caught in some wiring somewhere?
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3.4 2001 GLS.. When it's near freezing out there and humid, the car won't crank, it's not the starter since I can get it going by jumping it.. I'll just leave the car alone, go to work and start it later and it will start just fine for who knows how long..
It did it 2 days ago, I didn't notice any security light on solid or anything else whatsoever but I think I have an electrical intermittent problem that gets worst with humidity or colder humid air.. I've read most topics here but I still can't figure it out so far.. Inspecting the fuse box showed that the positive wire was surrounded by green dust, I've cleaned that.. My horn sounds anemic at times when I use the remote door lock..
Is there a relay dedicated to crank the car, I mean, sending the power to the starter solenoid? I just don't get the relation with that near freezing or freezing temperature thing..
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I have an 07 SE (manual transmission). In cold climates has noticed a noise at startup on a cold engine when the temperature is below freezing (colder than -5C or so)?
The engine has to be cold (like sat overnight) and the outside temp has to be cold. Then at start when I turn the key, the engine starts fine, but as I release the key from the start to the run position I hear what sounds like the starter motor make a noise (short zipping sound).
At first I wondered if it might be slow to disengage, but if that shouldn't make a noise because the gears should be meshed ok? There is no noise with a warm engine, or with a cold engine on a mild day.
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I've been having trouble with my wiper fluid nozzles or something else in the fluid assembly freezing and becoming inoperable. It's pretty dangerous because I'm usually driving on the freeway with a lot of spray hitting the windshield and clouding the view.
Forgot to mention....this happens typically below 20 degrees and I'm using -20 fluid.
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The driver's side rear suspension on my wife's 1998 Toyota Corolla LE completely locks up when the temperature (read-out from dashboard) is below 30-degF... every little crack in the road feels like the earth is splitting in two and jars my spine. The car becomes almost undriveable. However, above 33-34 degrees, it goes back to being perfectly driveable (as driveable as a 240k mile car is expected to be). I've replaced the front and rear linkages and rotated the tires to try and rule out the wheels... no change in behavior. I just need this car to last another year... really not worth replacing the suspension.
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Noticed that motor turns over for roughly 3-4 seconds before starting when their GX has sat for awhile in well below freezing temperatures?
It's not slow turning over just takes a little bit longer to actually catch and start.
When the motor is warm or the outside temperature is closer to freezing or above I find that it turns over for no more than about 2 seconds before it starts.
I am thinking the longer turning over when cold is a good thing since the motor is starting to pump oil when it is turning over and allowing the internals to get lubricated before starting and revving.
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I have a 2004 2nd generation Toyota Harrier (Lexus model RX330). The A/C blowing hot air if temperature is not set to Max Cold. This happened no matter whether turn on the A/C with Auto or Manual setting. This case also happen no matter whether setting the A/C system to Dual mode or not, no matter whether turn on or off the air intake control button.
As long as A/C on, cold air only come out when temperature set to Max Cold, even if set to 18 degree, full hot air come out. Another thing is, say I have the A/C on, set to max cold, cold air came out from the front vent, but after I try to increase the temperature to say 18 degree, the hot air flow will change to Floor/Windshield mode.
Could it because due to the change of the battery? Is there anything need to reset after replacing the battery?
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When taking our 2007 RX out of say a 72 degree garage to say a 90 degree day, it takes at least 10 minutes for the outside temp gauge to finally creep up to the ambient temperature. The gauge feels very sluggish at all other times.
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Seems like I'm having to crank the temperature up higher and higher (numerically) to avoid freezing myself out in the GX in the summer. Used to be ~72-74deg was a comfortable setting, regardless of outside temp. Now it seems like I'm running a 77-78deg setting on the climate control in order for things to feel right. Any lower and I just get frozen-out.
Oddly, if I have the rear AC on (if it's super hot outside, or if the kids are in the back) things are a bit more normal.
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This is a 2004 RX330. Unable to adjust temperature on driver side.
Symptoms - may appear to be defective heat or defective A/C on driver side only (depending on the position of the mix damper).
Solution -- replace mixer damper assembly servo (this controls the mix of hot and cold air on the driver side). This is a dual climate control, so each side has dedicated dampers.
So, if unable to change "where" the air coming out, the damper with the red arrow would require replacement.
If unable to control the temperature, the damper with the blue arrow would require replacement.
I will post pictures, after I repair my own. I'll be replacing the damper with the blue arrow.
This photo was taken with my feet on the drivers head-rest and my head pressing the accelerator.
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Is there any way I can raise or lower the temperature without turning on the fan speed? For example if I want to raise the temperature from 68 to 72, I literally have to hit the "Lo" speed and then raise the temp.
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It was a cold winter in Boston in the last two months. And since then almost every time I started my 2005 Prius, the temperature was default to 75F. Also, the first time I start the car in a day, it almost show the outside temperature as Celsius instead of Fahrenheit unless I press the screen to display something else and then come back, then the Fahrenheit will come back.
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I read up in an article I searched that removing the ABS fuse disables the traction, ESC, ABS, all that stuff. Is there a way that I can disengage my traction control and ESC without taking a fuse out if that is even possible?
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So my car is currently getting serviced and getting a new nav screen/system installed.
2014 IS350 F, Having this issue of their screen freezing then restarting?
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This one comes just in time when the cold and bad weather has started! My car is exhibiting certain symptoms and I am trying to figure out whether this is an issue with physical duct and air passageway components, the computer or something else....
When I turn on climate control, the car will blow air temp according to the one inputted only when I am driving, as soon as I come to a standstill, no matter what temp i input in the CC on the center console, the air will be freezing cold.
Now I don't know if its the computer sending improper signals to the duct system, a bad sensor or some problem with the duct passageway system.
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2010 Lexus Rx450h... Rattles in the morning, only when really cold. (Around freezing?). Somewhere in or near the passenger side door, or the air vent by that door. It gets quiet(er) after warmup. Car has been at the dealer for a week... They can't find it; they want to pack in additional insulation. That hardly sounds like a sound solution.
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My 2004 RX330 which has gone many years without a problem suddenly has instrument panel gremlins.
I started the car a couple of days ago (it had rained during the day), and the airbag light did not turn off. Then the TPMS warning light came on, the water temperature gauge dropped to zero. The AC controls stopped responding. Since I needed to get home, and the car seemed otherwise fine, I drove home, after a few minutes the transmission "D" drive light went blank and the instrument back-light went to full brightness.
A few minutes later, all the warning lights went off and the back-light went back to normal. The AC controls still seemed to be off. A few minutes later the airbag warning light came back on, followed by the TPMS light and the back-light went to full brightness again. This cycle kept happening all the way home.
The next morning, hoping the problem had been some errant water getting into something, I started the car, opened the driver's door to get something and got back into the car, closing the door. The light showing the door was open stayed on. I put the car into reverse, the doors did not automatically lock as they usually do. I turned off the engine and restarted it, most of the other lights were off, the doors would lock; airbag & TPMS light came back on.
It has stayed that way, except I also get the A/T temperature warning light coming on periodically, and after some cycle it goes off.
I borrowed a car code reader, it does not seem to show any error codes. In reading some other postings it has been suggested that the Brake light switch is the cause, but the brake lights come on/off without any problem.
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I have a 2004 GX470. Been a great car. Has 310k miles and very little in repair. My current problem is the rear air suspension leaks down. The problem is not 100% of the time but probably 80% when the car is left parked and off, over a few hours the air is released and the rear is sitting on the bumpers. My theory is it is not the air bags as if one leaked it would be doing this every time the car sits.
My hunch is it is either the component that releases the air is not sealing up every time after it releases the prescribed air when the car is parked. ( That sound it makes when you get out and it lowers the car a little each time) ... Or the sensor tells that component to let more air out and it does not tell it to stop.
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