Lexus GX 2004-09 :: 55w 8000K HID Kit - Amount Of Light Coming Out Isn't Sufficient
Feb 9, 2014
I installed a 55w 8000K HID kit on my GX470, but the amount of light coming out isn't sufficient, compared to another car i installed exactly the same kit on. I get a really nice, bright light that spreads a good distance with my other car and on the Lexus, i get dim light with some greenish tint (should be blue as it is 8000K) that doesn't light a lot of the road ahead of me. What can i do to improve the amount of light and the distance it shines?
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I just replaced my front rotors and brake pads this afternoon. I took it for a test run around the block and had allot of smoke come off the rotor on drivers side. I concluded that it had seized, and replaced it with a new rotor. I then test drove it a good two miles to fill the girl up with gas, when I got home I saw that my passenger side rotor had a faint amount of smoke. Granted I did a sloppy job and there was brake fluid everywhere. With all that being said, when I drove her to get gas it did not pull to the right, jerk or pulse. I was able to stop on a dime, I guess I want to know if this small amount of smoke is just the new pads adjusting to the new rotor?
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I have a 04' RX 330 with 92k. It has small radiator leak. If you are standing in front of the car and look below the fan on the left side of the radiator you can see a small amount of red fluid that has leaked out of the radiator. However, the leak isn't big enough that I ever have to add coolant I just top it off when I get the oil changed. Also it doesn't puddle on the pavement when parked.
The only thing I really notice is that my windows tend fog abit easier now so I assuming the moisture must be making its way into the ventalation somehow. My mechanic said its about a $700 repair. My question should I fix it and is $700 reasonable. Also I've never had the timing belt replaced would it make since do have this done at the same time as the radiator. How long will it take before it becomes a major problem instead of a minor annoyance?
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I have a 2008 Ranger sport. When set on max a/c can only feel a small amount of air coming out of the vents. Compressor gets cold an condensates. Would this be a problem with the actuator not opening the damper all the way?
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I have a 2009 KIA rondo with 64k miles. There is an unusual amount of noise coming from the front left side. At first I thought it may have been road noise. But the sound eventually became louder at higher speeds 60-70 mph. So I inspected all the fluids and motor mounts all are clean, not burnt odors and or bubbles. The motor mounts are not damaged. All belts are in excellent condition. There is alot of brake dust on the outside rim of the tire. Pulled the front right tire to inspect the caliper and brake pads. There is plenty of pad left and has normal wear, the rotor also has wear consistent with that of the pads. Pulled left front tire to inspect caliper and pads, thinking because of noise that the harmonics might be on the driver side. Normal wear on caliper and pads. So rotated the tires back to front, hoping maybe it was tire noise. No such luck there is still alot of noise coming from front end....its not a whining sound more a muffled tone that sounds like road noise. I don't want to replace the calipers if I don't have too since they are 332.00 each.
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I've owned this vehicle since new and never overheated or had any major mechanical issues. It just hit 130,000 miles and recently completed a 1500 mile uneventful road trip running great.
The other day I noticed an excessive amount of steam/smoke coming from the exhaust while sitting at a stop light after recently starting the vehicle. Once the van was up to temperature the exhaust steam/smoke cleared up.
I checked the radiator level and found it was about a qt low, and did not seem to have any exhaust bubbling or fumes in the radiator.
Then, I pulled the dipstick and the freshly changed oil looked a bit cloudy (I got really nervous), I really can't say its milky colored because I can still see though the oil and see the cross hatches on the stick. But it doesn't look like new oil.
The engine seems to be running fine, no loss of power or missing. Starts and idles fine.
Talked with a mechanic friend and he immediately said blown head gasket or intake manifold was allowing water from one of the four corners where the gasket seals the water jacket, into a cylinder.
Since that first episode of excessive steam/smoke it hasn't reproduced the problem to that degree. It does start to steam out the exhaust after about 5 minutes of starting cold, but seems to dissipate after the engine warms.
The amount of smoke / steam in that first episode, I couldn't see the car behind me in the mirror ... I looked like a mosquito fogger.
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The auto leveling warning light has come on a couple of time now on my daughters 04 rx330. The lights do adjust when vehicle is started so the motors are working. I assume this leaves the sensor? I will also note that the lights are operated in the "auto" mode and the warning light has come on when just the daytime running lights are on. If this sounds like a sensor issue, great, probably a fix that I can take care of. 1st question, is there a sensor front and rear? And for question #2, where is it or they located?
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Last week while on the highway I noticed my AC was not blowing cold. It was set to the lowest temperature and at the lowest fan setting. The air had gone from cold to room temperature and the AC button light was flashing/blinking.
I pressed the button, it lit up solid and it started blowing cold again. Two minutes later the air went back to room temperature and the light was flashing again.
It worked fine for a few days and then it happened again Saturday. I noticed the air wasn't coming out cold and see that the AC button is blinking. I tap it solid and it starts blowing cold again only this time it stayed cold for the rest of the 20 minute drive. What could be going on here?
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2007 F550 with the 6.0. About 2 months ago I replaced the EGR cooler with a Bulletproof cooler. Truck ran well for a few weeks. Then I started getting the "turbo fart". I stopped using the truck until I had an issue with another truck. I was stuck so I sent the 07 out without cleaning the turbo. This morning a decent amount of white smoke started coming out of the exhaust. The smoke would sometimes get a bit gray. Going up hill it didn't have much power at all.
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I have a 2007 GX and these lights have been coming on. I have a hard time shifting out of park. I replaced the gas cap.
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I have a 2004 Camry that I purchased used 8/2006 with 20,400 miles on it. It now has 83,000 miles on it. I’ve changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles, and I’ve never had to add oil between changes. I’ve also replaced the antifreeze on time, using 5 yr/150,000 mile antifreeze. The only time I’ve had to add antifreeze was 4/23/13, to top off the overflow reservoir. Saturday I did my annual tune-up (plugs, air filter and fuel injector cleaner added to the gas). Plugs looked normal. Last week the car sat for several days, no issue on start-up.
Yesterday afternoon I started the car after it sat for two days. A huge amount of white smoke came out of the exhaust. It ran fine. I mentioned this to my wife, she said that about two weeks ago she saw a lot of black smoke (she thinks black) when she started the car and that it ran rough for about the first 4 miles and then started running ok. It has the 2AZFE engine, and I’ve read a TSB (TSB 1507) “It has been reported that stripped head bolt threads have been found on some of these engines during tear down. When the two rear head bolts lose their clamping ability they allow coolant to seep out at the rear of the cylinder head.” Could that be the problem?
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One area we have been disappointed with is the lack of sufficient tension on the windscreen wipers. The local dealer broke the plastic replacing the blade which did nothing to correct the problem. The rear wiper is just as bad, leaving a large area never swiped. The driver side blade leaves a large half bubble shaped area un-wiped in front of the driver.
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The heater in my '07 Sonata (V6) does not seem to do too much - the air gets warm, but not hot - even at full blast. (A real problem here in Wisconsin when the outside temp gets below zero). Temperature gauge always reads below the midpoint on the gauge. My hunch is I need to install a hotter thermostat.
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I have a 2010, Prius III. Whenever I plug my blackberry storm into the usb slot, my phone says "there is not sufficient power to charge the phone". I've tried charging with the Storm 1 and Storm 2 but neither seem to work. I have plugged in my ipod and it seems to charge just fine. Is it just the phone that won't allow it to charge or is it the fact that it's a micro usb that the car may not be able to handle? Or maybe the usb port is faulty.
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I am new the forum but I wanted to get some information about the apparent turbo failure problem the 2012-2014 TDIs seem to be having. On other forums I have read numerous premature turbo failures. Also how long did it take to get the new parts and complete the repair. My car at this point will be in the shop for over a week. At the point when the car broke down I did not really know what was going on. The glow plug light was blinking and I immediately lost a significant amount of power. Do I need to worry about any internal engine damage from a blown turbo? I was able to get the car to the dealer at a very slow speed in a very short amount of time but this is my first diesel and first turbo so I could use some information.
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I want to replace my headlight bulbs; I want to install 8000K in my low beams, and maybe 3000K in my hi beams. But all of the bulbs that I ever installed either; A the burnt out within few weeks (lost color), or B they stopped working.
Now, regular WHITE bulbs seem to work forever; but the color ones, burn out/break. Low quality?? I need a pair of very good 9006 8000K, and 9005 3000K. Again, but I don't want to change them in a week or two. I want them to last!!
P.S. 2005 Toyota Camry
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2004 F-250 6.0 Turbo Diesel W/ Torque Shift Transmission. Im having a problem with my Check Gauge light coming on and Tow Haul light flashing on my 04 F-250. I got a Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor from my local Ford Dealership. They also said i needed to replace the Transmission harness for this application because of an open circuit.
My questions are, Is Mercon SP the only ATF that can be used on the Torque shift transmission and do i really need to replace the harness or just the sensor? I have read up a little on this and so far everything say's drain the fluid, drop the trans pan, swap out the sensor, replace the trans pan (torque setting is 11flbs I believe, correct me if I am wrong, replace with Mercon SP ATF and your good to go.
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX 300 with 235,000 miles. I have been having a challenge with the "check engine" light coming on. I have taken it to a reputable mechanic several times. I had the oxygen sensor replaced, and the light went out. I had an emissions inspection, and the light came back on during the test, but it still passed, and the inspection report commented that there was a communication error, but no other problems. Every time the light comes on my mechanic puts his testing equipment on and finds no problems. I am trying to sell the car, but I am concerned that any potential buyer is going to look a the high miles and the check engine light and get scared off. The car is in great condition and looks like a very well taken care of car.
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My oil maintenance light keeps coming on at 5k miles even though oil change is suggested at10k with correct oil...
is there a way to have the reminder set at 10k its getting annoying...
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A couple mornings recently for the first 5 minutes or so I have had a squeak coming from my A/C blower. The frequency rises and falls with the speed of the blower. I need an oil service and my truck is at 98K and under CPO, I am hoping Lexus will replace the blower as it seems it could be on its last legs.
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THis week I made my wife drive me around while I tried to isolate the noise. Turns out it's coming from under the vehicle, right where the forward tie-down ring is on the right side of the back about 16 inches from the rear door. I thought it might be the ring so I got a wrench and took it off but the sound is definitely coming from under the truck. I crawled underneath but didn't see anything obviously loose.
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