Lexus GX 2004-09 :: 2008 - Battery Light Came On And Whirring Noise Pull Over
Jun 7, 2013
2008 GX with 42K and just driving home and battery light comes on and a whirring noise--pull over and open hood smell strong electrical smell--ok Alternator fried. Got it home and battery light off but still when I put a meter to my battery with engine running its only putting out 13.4V? should be at least 14.5-6 correct. Has to be Alternator cause of the symptoms and the burning electrical smell..
SO WHO has changed alternator and how hard was it? Im looking for it and I think its under the Power steering pump it seems left side engine looking at it.??
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I have a 2008 RX350. When i shut off the engine and pull the key out i hear a constant clicking sound. I dont really know where its coming from but i can kind of pin point it maybe to the windows or door i'm not too sure. I also notice the interior light flickering to the same pattern as the clicking noise.
Second problem - in the middle of the night the alarm goes off! Its the alarm without the horn noise. For some reason i cant switch it off with the fob key. No matter what i do i cant switch it off. So it goes on for about 20 seconds and stops. I just leave the car unlocked after that and it doesnt come back. The alarm noise is coming from the boot....
Third problem Now the navigation screen flickers. Blacks out then the lexus emblem appears then switches back on itself.
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I have 2005 F150 XLT 5.4 litre engine and my battery light comes on after letting the truck run on idle or sometimes driving.
Last Saturday went out drove it heater on and radio on I smelled something coming from the heater kinda like burning wire smell didn't think anything of it no smoke from heater (indicating the core was bad) no lights on the cluster nothing; went into the bank let it run came back out my battery light on. Drove it home and while driving the light goes off.
Opened the hood and the smell was coming from the alternator. So I turned the truck off. Let it sit for an hour or so then I took my voltmeter to see if the battery was good. The battery was 12.4v with engine off. Checked my battery connection for corrosion or loose connections everything was tight there was some dust on the battery terminals so I brushed them off. I checked the battery cable that goes from positive to the alternator where it connects to the alternator with that nut it was good, clean and tight.
So I started the engine up and I can hear a whining noise from one of the pulleys. Let it idle for 2 minutes no battery light so I put my voltmeter on the battery it read 13.8v, so I turned on the A/C, head lights, radio and the heater tried again the voltage dropped down to 11.9v then the battery light came back on. Also through all this my battery gauge in the cluster always stays a half way mark doesn't drop or go high. Next with the engine turned off I took the belt off checked the pulleys the idler pulleys seem fine and the belt doesn't show any glazing but the alternator was hot almost like touching a hot exhaust manifold.
So for the last 3 days I have been trying to come up with how to resolve this issue obviously it could be the alternator going bad but the battery has never lost a charge yet I let the truck sit for these past 3 days and today I started the truck and it started right up I don't see any dimming lights except it has a whining noise and the battery light didn't come on immediately I let it run for 5-10 minutes before it came on; I even drove it around the block and the whining noise gets louder every time I step on the gas. To me it's either I need new alternator, tension pulley is bad or the idler pulleys are bad but they turn fine.
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I recently installed a 2" aluminum HBS leveling kit on my F150. ('04 FX4 SCrew, 5.4, 61K miles). I was excited to finally improve the truck rather than fix something. The install was straightforward and I didnt have any issues (other than Cleveland, OH rust).
After installing the kit I noticed a whirring noise coming from the front end while driving, but I didnt think much of it and I got an alignment a couple of days later. Immediately after the alignment, the problem is still there. It sounds just like aggressive mud tires driving down the road, so I think it is coming from the tires.
The noise follows the speed of the truck (the pitch gets lower as you slow down) but you cant really start to hear it until you slow down below 45 mph. It is much more noticeable at lower speeds (probably because of the lower wind noise in the cab). I dont think it would be a CV joint/axle issue, but who knows. I am considering taking it back to have the alignment checked, but I figured I would check on here before I do.
I just bought this truck last fall, and it is one step away from being traded in because of the countless nuances this thing has (wet floors and consequently rust everywhere on the inside of the cab, rattling window trim, shaking bed, squeaky rear window, noisy phasors).
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My wife has an 07 GX470. Two days ago she came home and mentioned there was a whirring noise from the engine. I started the car, lifted the hood and heard the noise. Sounded like it was being generated by the serpentine belt. Meaning, something that the belt was "driving" was making the noise. She drove it again yesterday morning for a 10 mile trip to drop off son at camp. When she came back, she indicated that it smelled. Just walking out the door to the garage I was hit in the face by a very strong electrical smell. No fire, but smelled very bad. Car has been sitting since yesterday morning and she just now tried to start it and the car is dead. no power to anything. Battery is new 3 months ago.
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So about 3 or so weeks ago I brought my 2006 GX470 into the Lexus stealership and had the pulley's, water pump, and timing belt replaced. Fast forward to this morning, about 300 miles driven and it suddenly when started today has a terrible whining sound and the battery light is on the dash.
I need to go over the invoice from what they did but I believe it was 4 different pulley's they wanted to replace. Not sure if it was anything on the accessory belt path, but I imagine if I call they will blame the alternator and tell me to shell out hundreds more?
I didn't run it long like that, only a minute or so. Popped the hood and I could smell the burning rubber smell so I quickly shut it off. Nothing *appeared* seized to me however.
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I just bought a 2005 fx4 and there is a whining or whirring sound coming from the rear of the truck when I hit around 70km/h. the second i let go of the accelerator it stops.
Today when I got home after a 15 minute highway drive, i got under the truck and felt the differential area. it was warm but not hot. and there was a wet spot on it. i wiped off a drop of oil. there was also a wet spot on the bottom, seemed to be just water? I'm not sure.
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2005 F150 Lariat package with 63,000 miles. Ok... thought I had a cat crawl up in thew engine to stay warm...but alas no cat found. Got off of work and headed home, clicking/rattling noise from the front passenger side dash, then a whirring noise followed shortly there after by a dull thud (hence the cat scenario). Happened twice on the way home (~15miles) ...
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I owned a 99 f250 a little while ago. Just bought a 2006 crewcab F150 xlt about 2 months ago, and for the past month there has been this unusual grinding or whirring like noise coming from the front passenger side wheel.
I took it to the mechanic and he found a bad wheel bearing on drivers side and replaced it but that wasn't the issue. He could hear the noise but wasn't able to figure out what the actual issue was.
The noise only happens when my foot is on the throttle. (not when coasting) and i also just discovered that it doesn't make any noise at all when put in 4x4.
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Ok, so my 2007 F150 Lariat super crew cab has been at the dealership for a week now with them claiming that a part is on back order. How hard is it for them to get in a right front axle?? Granted, it was in there for other stuff too (which they can not give me a straight answer on if they fixed or not cause they are claiming the technician hasn't done the write up on it yet). My main concern is that they are screwing me around or that something happened to my truck. I am planning on stopping by there on Wed. morning after I get out of work.
Are these trucks known for bad front axles or was there some kind of a big recall on them?
Other things it went in for was the radio having the CD's cycle through when you first start up the truck, but does not happen like that all the time. Black plastic driver side front door hinge is cracked exposing the metal reinforcing part. Whirring/bearing type noise when you first start up the truck when it is cold and sits overnight (which they claim they can't hear yet waited to bring the truck inside and check it out at 3PM when they had the truck overnight from the night before when I dropped it off.) and the front driveshaft not fully disengaging when the truck is in 2wd. Almost seems like the vacuum locking hubs are still engaged.
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I have a 2006 f-150 FX4 and I need to replace the oil pan gasket. I need to know whether or not to pull the engine. I do not have the lifting capabilities to pull the engine and I dont have money to have anybody work on it. I need this replaced.
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I have a 2004 Screw lariat. When i turn the truck off, the locks no longer unlock automatically. Also when I press the unlock on my key fob, the headlights flash, but the doors do not unlock. And the driver side lock/unlock switch is no longer working either.. could this be a broken wire?
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When I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?
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For the past day and a half, when i start my car there isn't the usual smooth, quiet sound of the engine starting. There's a slight delay, and a whirring noise. When i put the car into gear and accelerate, the noise increases in volume and pitch. I think it might be something with the power steering pump or a belt issue, but I'm not fluent in Car and Driver speak.
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I have replaced the battery and determined that with the key turned off and doors unlocked the battery drain settles down to 130 milliamp after 60 seconds. If you lock the doors it settles down to the expected 20 milliamps after 60 seconds. Any description of what functions are turned off by locking the doors?
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About 45 seconds after start up Battery light on dash illuminates. Gauge shows in good range. Fluke meter across battery terminals reads 14.2 - 14.4 volts at idle with lights on high beam. No TDC's.
Truck is new to me, engine was replaced recently so I did do a check of harness connections with no problems found, what I should check next ?
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I don't know if this is normal, but my ES350making a (not loud) whirring noise only in reverse. I'm not sure if this is normal.
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Last night battery light came on. Drove 40 miles home with lights on. Today, it started so I headed out. About 10 miles of battery light on, gauge fluctuating mildly either side of middle, gauge suddenly drops dramatically. I turn around and head back. After a mile or so there's a terrible growling under the hood, sounded like it could be an alternator bearing. Just as I pull over, the noise stops but entire dash goes black. Popped hood, alternator spinning quietly and not hot. I drove back and it started stumbling and surging as the battery died and it finally quit almost all the way back.
I have battery on charger now. I assume the BCM is the regulator by feeding current back to the field? If so could the growling be the BCM feeding back a huge field and the rectifier bridge growing? And the BCM fuse blew because too much current to alternator field coils? Will it start with a charged battery with the BCM dead? I need it to run to get to the parts place. Which fuses do I need to check? Then, how do I check the alternator, wiring, BCM regulator to find original problem?
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my truck has been acting kind of funny for the past 2 days. my RPM's are not as high as they usuaully are and my battery volt is 14.2 watts and when i hit the brakes and turn it drops down to 12.5. when that happens my battery light turns on, steering wheel tightens up and truck slows down. the only way to get my truck running after that is turning it off and starting it up again. What might be wrong or had the same problems?
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My 2008 Prius has started making a noticeable soft whirring sound whenever the engine is running. You can hear it both inside and outside of the car. The sound lasts exactly 30 seconds, then pauses for 4 seconds, than repeats . When the car is turned off, the sound can be heard for about another 10 minutes before it shuts off entirely.
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I've been using my prius 2008 very smoothly till today. It was 100F+ in Austin and very hot. The car, suddenly lit up all the warning lights: Engine, Red Exclamation, Hybrid, and brake lights. The brakes kept beeping on both sides. I also heard an engine noise that is quite uncommon for prius. I stopped the car in a parking lot.
I came back in an hour and tried to start the car. I only saw 2 lights now: Red Exclamation, and Engine check. It might some "click" noise when I started, and after that it was fine. I drove for a while and everything was fine but the 2 warning lights were still on. I tried starting and stopping few times. I did experience the clicks (1-2) and the engine noise. The engine noise lasted 15-30 seconds and then it was back to normal.
I followed the youtube video to look up the diagnostics (Display pressed + lights on/off 3 times) to check the 12V battery. It read 13.8 V. I recently had an oil change at Toyota dealership less than 500 miles back. So I am baffled at this point. I have about ~60K miles and it's a 2008 model. So if it's a hybrid battery issue, I am covered.
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