My GX470 idles rough when I'm in "drive" and at a stop. If I drop it into park or neutral it is fine. The 470 has about 98K on it and everything else is great. Looking for a solution to get this smooth again.
View 2 RepliesSo for the past several months i have noticed something going on. There is a little noise almost like a groaning
- When i am at a Stop light and idle but still in Drive.
- When i shift to N or P it stops and goes away.
Sometimes during this i will notice a little rattle or i feel a little vibration but not much and very hard to even notice if it hadn't been for how sensitive i am never would have even noticed this at all. What this could be ?
Car is an automatic 1.8T and has a rough idle when the car is in DRIVE and I am in a full stop. Car also idles rough when in park. Not sure if it is an idle valve stabilizer, or a coilpack? Car does drive well once in motion and does not feel like it lacks power.
View 9 RepliesJust bought a L/Certified pre-owned 2013 ES 350. I am shocked at how much the car vibrates and noise increases when stopped at a light or stop sign. I tried a 2015 ES 350 and the same thing occurs!! The dealership technician says everything is operating "to specification". This is a disgrace for such a high-tech, luxury car.
View 14 Replies2008 Dodge Avenger SXT Sedan GEMA 2.4L DOHC I4 / 4 speed automatic75,000 miles Moderately well taken care of (oil change every 3,000 miles, mostly follows recommended maintenance in owner's manual)
Symptoms:
*Car runs and drives fine while the car is in constant motion and decelerating.
*Rough and Slow Idle at a stop on the brakes with car in Drive. Engine speed will drop below ~400 RPM, then "kick" up to ~1,200 RPM, settle back to 'normal' idle ~800 RPM, repeat. I have suggested she put the car in Neutral at a stop to see if that changes anything, but I don't have feedback from her yet. One instance of seeing a puff of smoke from under the hood while the car was doing the above.
*When pulling away from a stop, the car will hesitate; that is the accelerator will be pressed but the throttle response will be delayed.
*When pulling away from a stop acceleration will be inconsistent; instead of rrrrrRRRRRRRRRR, it's more like rrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRR
*Couple instances where the car just shut off while she was parallel parking (low engine speed).
*One instance where the car did not start on first attempt. Started fine on second attempt.
*No Check Engine Light. The codes have been run.
Shop Visits (at an independent garage recommended by her roommate who's been going there for 5+ years, good reviews on yelp, and always busy):
*First visit: told her they put in a bottle of fuel system cleaner and to use a tank of high octane gas. That didn't really work.
*Second visit: cleaned the throttle body. That was 3 days ago, so far no conclusion either way.
Other repairs:
*The battery was checked (at O'Reilly) and replaced after the starting incident mentioned above. (5 year old car, seems about right).
*2 nights ago I told her to put in a bottle of HEET to get water out of the fuel system (California uses ethanol blend) and a bottle of Gumout Fuel System Cleaner and to fill up with premium gas (based on items below). Be sure to run that tank down to almost empty.
Things I could think of:
*Crankshaft/camshaft position sensor failing.
*Alternator failing (because this problem doesn't seem to exist at higher RPM's)
Research online: It seems that a number of people have similar problems with Chrysler products with this and the previous generation 2.4L engine but no clear conclusive repair. Some of the items mentioned:
*Idle Air Control (IAC)
*Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
*New sparks plugs and wires. (not replaced but should be)
*New timing belt. Timing belt is one tooth off.
*Water in the Fuel System (hence, HEET)
*Dirty/Clogged Fuel System Component (hence, fuel system cleaner)
*Failing Fuel Pump
*Dirty/Clogged Air Filter (replaced per maintenance manual)
*Low Oil Pressure/Failing Oil Pump
*Additionally, there are no recalls against her VIN.
I have a 2011 XLT 5.0 V8 with 133,260 miles. I have extended warranty for the next 12,000 miles...which is great because I drive about 400 miles a month... Anyhow it runs great but for one small issue (hopefully) that has been intermittent.
She likes to idle slightly rough in drive at a stop or very low speed, and in reverse at slow speed. If I don't maintain the RPM it will stall and the low oil pressure light will come on, which I imagine comes on because of the sudden stall.
I first noticed this while backing into my garage in the driveway, It would fluctuate in RPMs and if I didn't maintain the gas it would shut off. I took it to the dealer and all they were able to tell me was the Tranny fluid was low and it would cause it to shut off at incline because a sensor isn't detecting fluid in the tranny. I thought this was weird but being as I have never owned an F150, I didn't know better.
It was fine for a little over a month and it started doing it again at stop lights and backing into my driveway. It has become frequent but there is no issue driving at speed and on the freeway. There is no stuttering or shaking and if it weren't for the fluctuating RPM at a stop and the stalling, it would be hard to tell if there was an issue.
All I can note is that there is a clicking sound under the hood, if I remember correctly the last time this happened I was at a 1/4 tank of fuel like I am now, I also feel like it may be a throttle body issue, or some sort of air sensor, I plan on taking it to the dealer but I figure I would get a more informed answer on the forums.
I also hear this is a common issue with the 5.0s... I purchased the truck in December and since then I have only put 250 miles on it.
In idle and driving the car sounds rough as if a pulley was loose, after checking no pulley was loose but problem still persists. Tried turning wheel left n right n noise didn't go away or get worse its a constant noise, what it may be? Crankshaft pulley? Idler pulley?
View 2 RepliesI have really taken care of this 2011 SF Limited with the 3.5 V6 but it has always seemed to idle rough at a red light/stop sign while in drive. Is this common for all the 3.5 V6 engines? I run a fuel cleaner through it before every syn oil change and also use top tier gas. It drives nice but like I said, at a stop in drive it seems to run rough at around 500-550 rpm's.
View 10 RepliesLately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt 5 speed manual with 49k miles. For the last year the car idles rough at stop lights when the A/C or heater is turned on. The rough idling is not continuous but intermittent with the rpm falling just below 500 and returning to just under 1000. This is accompanied by a shuddering, as if the car is about to stall out. I should also mention that the car has a tendency to stall when rolling to a stop in 1st or 2nd gear. The check engine light comes on sporadically during fast acceleration, usually on a steep incline, when driving on the highway on ramp. A recent diagnostic indicated the need to replace the fuel filter and clean the fuel system, including the throttle body. Had these things done, but I'm still having the same issues with the car. I mentioned this to my mechanic and he said it may be a loose hose.
View 3 RepliesSo, after I lower with BC Coil-over and 20" wheels (Stagger). I feel my car vibrate at a complete stop and in Drive. But when I put in neutral it stop the vibrate. When I take off from a complete stop is fine no vibrate but when I let go of the gas and let it cruise, it vibrate....
AWD GS, after lowering and with stagger wheels but it seem like the driving vibrate after after I put these wheels on. I didn't notice when i have my stock wheels on. or was it just me and 1SLOGS? I did balance all 4 tires again, I have all the hub-centric rings on all 4 wheels too.
Within the past few days my towncar has developed a rough idle. When I'm stopped at a light or stop sign it jumps and just plain idles rough. This also happens when I change speeds after either accelerate or decelerate. I travel an average of 80 miles a day total to and from work and my car has about 140,000 miles on it.
View 13 RepliesThis is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
Have a jazz blue chipped tuned with giac.. It does this random times.. When I come to a red light on idle the rpms go up and down just a bet but never stalls. The car vibrates and the engine shakes a bit. Engine is stable when car is on and off. Idk if its motor mounts or what?
View 10 RepliesRecently noticed the idle seems rough in Neutral and in Drive when stopped. When the roughness is subtle, that RPM gauge doesn't move and at other times with more pronounced surges the RPM gauge bounces around. Not sure if it is related but we just got back from a couples days in Tahoe. Tried reconnecting the gas cap with no change.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 FX4 5.4 with about 113,000 miles on it. Lately, when towing the camper (around 7000 lbs), truck runs great. However, when I come to a stop, it idles horribly and even stalls sometimes. When I rev it up, runs fine again. It only does this after towing when engine is under load for extended periods of time.
The only code it has ever thrown was for bank 2 camshaft over retarded. My thought was that it could be VCT solenoid for bank 2...
2001 f350 v10, initial problem was when i came to stop at light it idled rough. I changed all plugs,injectors and COP, and bad connectors thereto. Changed the clock spring as well. Now the truck idles like crap at first start of of the day then run fine there after. Replaced IAC, TPS, Temp sensor. Condition getting worse and now the temp gauge does not work. I am thinking maybe CAT Converter loaded up?
View 2 RepliesNotice roughness/jumpiness in the transmission when slowing to a stop, or crawling along (like in a shopping center)? it's quite evident on my car, and perhaps i just have a problem that nobody else feels.
It's as if the tranny is downshifting when slowing to a stop, and I can really feel it...makes it difficult to come to a smooth stop. and then if I'm moving very very slowly in heavy traffic, it seems to be "wandering" between 1st & 2nd...something like that...and it's very jumpy. Not smooth at all.
I realize that Lexus may come up with some reprogramming for trannies (that happened on my '01 GS, and it made a big difference).
2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Dodge Stratus with approximately 104,000 miles on it (most highway) and I'm at my wit's end trying to figure out my rough idling situation. When I was at stop light, I would notice a rougher than normal idling but not to the point where stalling would occur. The timing belt was just replaced a year and a half ago and I thought maybe something was wrong with the alternator??? I took it into the shop and they replaced my engine mounts, replaced spark plugs, and did a fuel injector cleaning....? Well not exactly....now the idling is 10x worse to where my entire steering wheel is shaking when I'm stopped at a stop light! The car itself just sounds rough.
No check engine light is on and the idling isn't nearly as bad as when I park the car....a part of me wants to throw in the towel and say it is what it is, but I just have a feeling that something's just not right.
I bought a 2005 3rd gen about 8 weeks ago and I love it except for one problem, a really bad idle/vibration through the cabin when cold starting, it improves when the engine is warm but is still noticeable.
It went back to the dealer where I got it and they gave it a full service, new plugs, oils and filters and replaced the transmission oil too after the check vsc and engine management lights came on.
The codes pulled showed a misfire on cylinder 2, the dealer said the service would cure all and sure enough no more vsc lights but the rough idle and vibration are persistent.
The car has only 78000 miles and I'm pretty certain a Lexus isn't supposed to behave like this.