Lexus GX 2004-09 :: 2006 - NAV Won't Working Properly - How To Reset And Recalibrate It
Jul 30, 2011
my nav system in my 06 has started acting all goofy on me. a few weeks ago while heading down to LBI I looked at the screen and it said I was driving in the ocean. I shook my head and went to our house which I've been to hundreds of times so it wasn't like I needed it. the next day it figured out where it was (meaning it actually knew its location and it showed on the screen). I forgot to mention that the nav thought I was somewhere off the coast of Massachusetts around cape cod
fast forward to now.....no hiccups up until today......I went out for a few and everything was fine with the nav but I just went to drop my kids off and it was claiming I was a few miles north-west of my actual location.
is there anyway to reset and recalibrate it? I have seen the recalibrate option but I have messed around with it yet. i personally feel that the nav unit in my ex is useless and rely on my Garmin but still......I'd like it to at least show my actual location. i just used the "search" button but I still haven't really found and answer.
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The thread started from a guy with a 2007 LS where his door hinges were becoming basically awful to the point where it was very difficult to shut the doors. My response follows...
So it's almost been two years since the last post in regards to this but I thought I would share a similar experience I'm going through with my 2007 GS 350. 2 months ago I broke down and bought a set of hinges for the right rear door because it got to the point that you physically had to walk with the door to close it ($400 parts, labor, paint). I am now having a similar experience with the driver door and it's getting worse every month.
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We spend summers away and our 06 Prius stays in the garage. I connect a battery minder and it keeps the 12v battery charged with no problem. I also turn off the switch under the steering column that works with the remote.
When I started the car after two months and driving for a few blocks, I noticed the MFD showed the battery at a low of two purple lines. After a while, it charges up normally. The car has 47000 miles and the 12 v battery has never been changed. Would that have something to do with it or am I being concerned over nothing?
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Hey for some reason my esc light will pop on saying it's off without Mr pressing the button. What makes it do that?
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A/C on my 2006 V6 3,3L Sonata just stopped working properly today when driving away from a supermarket, it blows only very hot air regardless of the temperature you choose on the display. It worked fine while driving to the supermarket and nothing remarkable happened to the car while I was shopping. All lights on A/C display, fan speed and everything else works fine, it just doesn't react to the temperature button at all.
I already checked the 10A A/C fuse under the bonnet, it's fine. There is an A/C relay in fuse box that I can check tomorrow but I suspect the fault to be somewhere else.
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Where is the fog light relay located in the car? I have checked the fuse and the bulb everything is fine but it wont turn on.
1. Fog light fuse still good (even try to switch to new fuse) the fog light wont turn on at all.
2. Check the connection wire everything is in intact.
3. High beam still working fine using the stalk but fog light still not working. Yes, we can only use fog or high beam, but the issue is low beam and fog not even working.
4. Before the Fog light problem, the driver side fog light is blown. So I replace it with the new bulb. Everything is OEM part there are no aftermarket part or HID .
5. This happen about a week after the driver side bulb blown then all sudden the fog just not working at all.
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I noticed that my ebrake wont hold my car when I apply it while in neutral on a really not steep hill in front of my house. When I put it in park, the only thing holding the car is the transmission so when I turn it on again when going out AND put the transmission in drive it makes a clunking sound.
Went to the dealer for my 5k maintenance checkup and explained this. The guy said that the ebrake was not supposed to hold your car like that and that all cars did that when parked on a hill. He said that the ebrake had really limited adjustability and since it did hold the car on a falt surface, it was ok.
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I have a 2008 Azera, my A/C is not working properly, when I turn it on the drivers side is COOL, the passenger side warm air is coming out.
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i have a 2006 sonata v6 3.3 couple off days water in my radiator started to finish every morning I have to refill it again I haven't noticed any leaking near the engine or under the vehicle but when i drive around i noticed a steam is coming out of my air vent though the air condition is off and the temperatures of the engine rises when i tried to open the radiator cap it was already empty i checked around inside the car i have found the floor mat in the passenger side is wet
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I have an 06 f250 6.0. When I bought it a few weeks ago I turn the key on and let the glow plugs warm up and start the truck it would start easily. Now it seems like it's taking longer to start . The temperature are between 50 and 80 degrees. I changed the fuel filters and it's still taking to long to start.
2nd I noticed today that when my truck is at idle the Tachometer is at 0 and when I'm driving 60-70 MPh it goes up to 900 or maybe 1200. It seems to be running fine no loss of power that I can tell. What could be causing the long crank time and my Tachometer problems.
the glow plugs and injectors are new I don't remember the brand and the fuel filters are brand new Motorcraft.
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My 2011 ES350 has 43,000 miles and runs great. I took it to Firestone today for tire rotation, full synthetic oil change and I let the guy talk me into adding fuel injector cleaning.
When I got the car back, I noticed the Auto Climate Control button wasn't working properly. If I press it on, I can't press it off. The green light stays on. If I turn off the fan, the Auto button goes off. I am positive the button worked before the service.
What could have happened that would cause this? I know the service guy had to press some buttons to turn off the "oil change required" message. Could he have messed something up in the process?
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I have a 2004 bought in 2003. It recently logged its first 100k miles. My problem with it is not easy to describe. It is actually running more like a non-hybrid car. I can feel and tell the hybrid system is operational, and I can hear the electric motor whine when coasting, down, etc. However, I don't think it is running as it should or as it used to. It happened on highway while cruising about 70 mph. I hit the accelerator to pass someone, and I felt that something changed. I'll try to describe it: think of a half-clogged pipe. The water can barely gets past the obstruction. You keep applying pressure, and suddenly the clog dissolves under pressure, and water begins to flow freely, and the pressure goes down. So it felt like that. Now the accelerator pedal is lighter, car is faster to respond, yet I think something is wrong because the car isn't itself anymore.
I don't like problems like these because they are very difficult to diagnose, let alone fix. For a while I also have not heard the inverter pump whine after shutting the car off as I did in the past, but the last time I got out of the car today I heard it. I believe it was replaced five years ago after a collision with a Trailblazer wiped out half of the front end ( but with no power train damage). I checked the VIN for the inverter pump campaign, but my VIN was not in the range.
Right now my problem is that the car feels a lot faster than it has ever been. When I lift off the accelerator, it doesn't begin to coast as it used to. No warning light of any kind out of the ordinary is present on the dash, although it did have the red triangle on during start up with a message about the parking gear not being engaged properly. That warning went away after the change in performance occurred. Related?
I guess I will take it to the dealer to see if there are any codes stored. After my 30 mile commute this morning, no whining, buzzing or any kind of noise was present after I shut off the car and I got out. There is still no warning light.
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I have a 2009 Prius base model, and I've been having two different brake problems.
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I have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
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My wife's 2004 Ford Taurus has been acting up. It shudders sometimes at stoplights and also while driving sometimes. The auto parts store plugged in the computer and said it was the torque converter not working properly. We took it to "The Answer" in Evansville, Indiana for their advertised free diagnosis. They checked it out and told us basically the same thing. The torque converter was acting up. (Slipping? Catching? I don't remember the exact details...)
They said the remedy would be a big expensive job (install rebuilt transmission? Replace torque converter?). Is there anything we can do to prolong the inevitable such as fluid, filter change...flush...additive? We are resigned to the fact that we will need to buy another vehicle but wonder if we should buy one now since the Taurus may only last another few weeks or can we put off buying another car because the Taurus may last another six to twelve or more months.
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My a/c recently is not blowing the same amount of air thru the cabin. Thought it was the cabin air filter because I was recently in some really dusty conditions. The compressor under the hood (and both lines) run very cold, but cabin blows cold air just low volume compared to before my dusty trip. Am told the 2004 does not have a cabin air filter. If that is true how and where is the air filtered or input? Think something is restricting my air flow causing me problems.
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When it's pinned at MAX temp, I check the actual temp that the on-board computer is seeing, by using my OBDII scan tool...and I get about 87 degrees C when I'm halfway into my trip (i.e. - when the van is at operating temp), which seems OK. All the other analog gauges are working perfectly.
I read a lot about the issues with "connector C305" on the Internet on the Montana vans...could this be the problem?
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Had this car for two years and I love it, but the central locking has been a bit glitchy since I bought it. Sometimes it works perfectly for weeks.
Sometimes it unlocks the driver door just fine, but a second click of the button won't open the other doors.
On a couple of occasions (today was the second time) it won't unlock any door. If I use the keyhole in the driver door to unlock that door, I have to hold the key to force the lock to stay up while I pull open the door with the other hand. If I let go of the key, it relocks itself.
After I manually unlocked and opened the driver door, I reached in and pressed the button on the console. It would not unlock the doors. This car has only one door keyhole, the one on the driver door. Locking always works on all doors, and it locks the doors itself as it should as I take off down the street.
When it is misbehaving, it misbehaves with either key and the console button does not work either, so I am pretty sure the problem not the transmitter.
If it always behaved as it did today, I would suspect that the microswitch in the driver door was shorting, and telling the system that the key was in the door and turned full right all the time. However, that would not explain why the usual failure is to open the driver door but not the others. Where is the receiver for the remote lock control?
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When stuck in traffic jams, and my 2004 Prius shows 2 bars on the HV battery charge, it attempts to start the engine to maintain the charge on the HV battery. What was happening was the engine would attempt to start and then it would immediately die. It would keep repeating this process, over and over again, and would not charge the HV battery. Once I started driving out of the traffic jam, the engine ran fine and it charged up the HV battery while I was moving down the road. I decided to clean the throttle body. My charging problem did change due to me cleaning the throttle body. Instead of starting and immediately dying, over and over again, the engine no longer dies.
It now revs up, and slows back down to idle over and over again when sitting still with 2 bars of charge. The display does not show any charging going on during this revving up and slowing down episode. I need some more hints as to what to check out. I am studying electrical diagrams of the vehicle, but I need a synopsis of which system starts the engine for HV charging, and which system keeps the engine revving at the same RPMs during charging while not in motion. The throttle body cleaning made my 257 K mile Prius run like a scared deer again. I just need to get her charging while sitting still again. 12 volt charging system is in the 14+ volt range and 12 volt battery with no load is around 12.2 volts.
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My 2008 F150 Super Crew Door locks use to work like this, When you pushed the unlock button on the key fob once it unlocked the driver door only then if you pressed it again it unlocked the other 3 doors. A few months ago it started unlocking all 4 doors with one press. The owners manual does not show this as a option and when I had it at the dealer for brakes they tried to get it back the way it was but could not figure it out either.
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