Lexus GX 2004-09 :: 2005 - How To Replace The Torn CV Boot
Sep 23, 2012
I just bought a 2005 GX470 with 107k miles. Very happy with my purchase. The truck is in great condition, very well maintained, super clean, with lots of service records. Previous original owner did not skip any of the recommended items when it came to service, including T-belt, water pump, etc.
However, while inspecting the SUV today, i found one problem. On the driver side, the inner CV boot is torn and it is spraying some gray looking grease around. The passenger side, looks fine.
My question is... how hard is to replace the torn CV boot on these trucks? Do i need any special tools? Should i just replace the boot(s) or do the whole CV axle?
I've replaced CV boots on Nissan Maxima and old Audi in the past and it was a doable but time consuming task. Both times, i wished i replaced the entire axle vs dealing with fixing individual CV boots.
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I have an 06 gs300 awd. My left front axle boot is torn wide open. I've called multiple parts stores, looked online. And I can't seem to find one anywhere but the dealer. I have found one for gs350. So my question is will that one work in my gs300? What is the part number from the dealer is different between 06 and 07?
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I just bought my first car: a 2007 Toyota Yaris. It has a torn CV boot on the driver's side (don't worry, I was aware of this when I bought it). I've done my homework, and I understand that if I do nothing, at some point I will start to hear a clicking or clunking sound when turning the wheel, that will gradually grow louder over time. Eventually, I'll be driving along, and the CV joint will break for good, resulting in either:
a) the gas pedal won't propel the car, I will slam on the breaks and be stuck on the side of the road, or
b) (in rare cases) the driver's side wheel will fly off, leaving me stuck in the ditch, and possibly dead.
I don't want
a) to happen, but I really don't want
b)! I've also learned that replacing the whole CV axle is probably the best fix for this, and that the a cheap way to do it is to order the part myself and bring it to a mechanic.
So here's my question: Should I absolutely be fixing this before I drive to Michigan? In other words, if I don't fix, and then get 50 miles into driving to Michigan, and start hearing that click-click-click sound, am I screwed? Once the clicking starts, do you think the joint would fail before 1500 miles, or do I have a grace period?
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2007 corolla 64K original factory calipers. I bought pads and rotors today to replace my front brakes. When I removed the right caliper I noticed that the boot was danaged ( about 1" long tear ). but does not leak. I put the pads and rotors on anyways.What would be the normal repair for this Leave it, replace thr boot, replace the whole caliper or replace both calipers. This also has ABS. I have never bleed ABS brakes before. What is the best way for a DIYer to bleed this type of brakes.
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Was replacing the rear brakes on my Mom's 2010 Prius II and found a tiny tear in the piston dust boot on the driver side. The piston still moves freely. I was hoping the boot could be replaced without removing the piston but from reading the repair manual on the brakes it specifically says the boot must be placed on the piston before the piston is installed.
So now I'm debating on what to do. I can rebuild the caliper for almost nothing but I can't bleed the brakes because of the Prius' system. I would have to take it to the dealer afterwards and not sure about driving it there. Do things could be damaged with air in the system?
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I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
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My 2006 GX was purchased with a torn second row, middle shoulder belt. The replacement belt just came in the mail today. I plan to tear into it this weekend, but before I do I was just wondering if any of you have any words of wisdom? It's kind of a weird, isolated problem, but you never know.
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I have just purchased a second hand Lexus Rx300. The boot isn't opening or closing automatically. It just beeps twice and makes a noise like it's trying to do something but that's as much as I get ?
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I was replacing the oil in the transfer case and came across this under the passenger side. Power steering rack seems to be leaking through the rubber boot, but I have not noticed anything on the garage floor in recent months...
Can the boot itself be replaced? I hate to think the whole system needs to be replaced.
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I noticed a little bit of grease splatter on the frame last night when I was changing the running board lights. The grease was coming out from the clamp, no ripped or torn boot.
Maybe one day I'll buy the special clamp and crimping tool but for now I used some silicone tape. It seals to itself and it doesn't leave a sticky residue if removed. If you use this tape make sure you stretch it and pull it really tight as you're wrapping it so it can seal to itself. I used some zip ties just in case.
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I have an issue with the air conditioner of my prius. It just works while I am driving, but it does not work when I stop for a short while, such as waiting for signal. The fan is working fine. I visited a dealer and they told me the gas is leaking... but, they are wrong. I cannot believe them. The gas is fine and there is no leak and no problem exists at any other parts. Need to know about it? Should I replace the compressor?
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I just noticed that the upper ball joint boots for both uppers are dry rotted and torn! Only 40k miles and the boot falls apart when I touch any portion of it. Is this normal, so much for quality?
Anyway my question is how hard is it to R&R them and do I have time? IOW will the ball joint wear out really fast?
Rust bubbles front of hood both corners, the tranny thing, now the ball joints all within 40k miles. rear glass trim breaks and falls off.
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Driver's side isn't putting out any bass at all. Passenger side isn't sounding good either.
Since I don't know if the speaker is dead, or if the amp channel is dead, I'm going to order just one speaker at first and replace the driver's side. If it starts working I'll either repair the foam on the passenger side (most likely thing wrong with it) or order another speaker. If it doesn't start working, the replacement will go in the passenger door, and I'll consider if it's worth getting the Mark Levinson amp repaired.
I used the Autosound 2000 disc 105 Track 24 to check this. Put that track on repeat, then use the balance/fader controls to target individual channels. Track 25 will test the mid-bass speaker found in the front doors, then Track 26 for the tweeter.
[URL]....
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My son was getting out of the back seat and pulled his coat across the cup holder in the center console and broke it. The dealer said that I have to buy the whole arm rest for $1100. I can unzip the leather and there is two screws in the back that can be removed and the cup holder comes out. Can replace just the cup holder?
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I found the filter at O'Reilly's but looking for step-by-step instructions.
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I'm repainting my peeling shifter trim plate and replacing the shift boot with a new one. Lots of support available on removing the shifter and disassembling the trim plate, but no clear instructions on how to remove the boot from the knob. It looks like this inside:
How do I separate the boot from the knob to install a new boot? The only instructions I found showed a metal collar which is not the case in our cars.
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I need to replace one of the tailights on my wife's '06 RX330. It's one of the inboard tailights that, along with a backup light, is contained in a module in the rear liftgate.
How to remove the module for access to the lights? I see a screw/nut that apparently must be removed first, but after removing it, I couldn't tell whether module pulled straight out (or forward when the liftgate is closed), if it pulled to the side of the car, or if there's another fastener I missed. I don't want to pull the wrong way and break something......
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Had the #2 ignition coil go bad (for the second time, mileage is only 84K) and decided to proactively replace all the spark plugs at the same time. #2 coil came out fine and replaced the plug with a toyota irridium. However, the #4 and #6 coils each separated from their respective boots. I was unable to extract either boot. I was able to re-insert the coils without replacing the spark plugs and the engine is running fine (no codes). Before I take on #1 , 3, and 5, I'd like to extract the stuck boots in #4 and 6 and replace the plugs.
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I bought my first Lexus, great car. 2003 GX470 with 106k. I have had one problem with the fuse for the dome light. This issue has been on going since I bought the vehicle a couple months back and I can usually fix the problem by just replacing the fuse. Now when I try to replace the fuse, the fuse sparks and blows before I can even put it into the slot. Obviously there is something going on here that won't allow the fuse to be inserted before blowing. How to rectify this issue?
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I bought my 2008 GS 350 in March of this year, got it checked by Lexus of Edison at 70,606 miles (I purchased it at 69,850 miles) and everything was fine. So I went in for my 75,000 mile service and now they're saying that my LF axle is leaking grease from the boot and to replace it with a brand new axle it will cost $1773. Here's a picture from directly underneath the drivers side
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2007 Es350 with 60k. Boot is not cracked or split and does not have any holes. It appears to be leaking where the big band is next to the tx.
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