Lexus GS 2013+ :: Crack In Windshield - Replacement / Installation?
Mar 16, 2015
I got a crack in my windshield this weekend. The crack is about 15" long and everyone says it needs to be replaced. So far all estimates have come in around $1100 - $1700 to install a new windshield. Does this sound about right?
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Four months on and today I noticed my 3M carbon fibre wrapped exhaust tips are beginning to crack and peel in the corners. I am thinking exhaust heat finally drying the glue backing out causing them to dry up like old leaves.
Also after Plasti Dipping my logos I have had no luck with the rear tailgate F Sport logo in removing the fine SPORT centre fill cleanly to reveal the white background on my white GS. Everywhere else went perfect. Not keen on leaving a silver logo with all other blacked out on the back end.
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Do I need to remove the rear bumper to replace the rear bumper reflector?
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The Prius that I bought brand new last October has developed a crack just above the driver's side windshield wiper. I noticed it today while washing the car. At that time it was about eight or nine inches long, and relatively hard to see due to being so low on the windshield. I inspected the crack very carefully and could not see ANY type of impact damage. After driving it around for the day, the crack has now splintered off and is going in a few different directions now. In a couple of places along the crack a few small chips have also broken off.
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Had an enormous crack in the windshield of our 2010 Prius and recently had it fixed. It leaked. Tech came out to fix the problem and check for water damage-we didn't see any at the time, but the fix didn't take and it's leaking again. This time, much worse. Here's what the discussion title refers to.
I'm concerned that the water damage will contribute to a problem down the road- corrosion in the electronics in the roof, damage to the carpeting(?) on the ceiling, mold etc. I would like to take the car into the dealer and have them give it a once-over, but want the glass repair shop to foot the bill. My philosophy is: I wouldn't have to get things checked out if you hadn't botched the install-twice. Their philosophy is: unless you can show us evidence of malfunction, we're not paying for someone else to look at it. I feel like they should go the extra step to put my mind at ease and make sure that any developing problem can be addressed now instead of having to wait until something goes bad.
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I have a couple of cracks in my front windshield and I'm thinking of replacing it.
A few years back I had the dealership work on the famous creaks and I know they stuffed felt in between the windshield cowl area. Would that need to be redone?
I would request a factory windshield but I'm concerned if it might make the creaking worse or if it would affect the integrity of the car.
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I drive a 2003 Jeep Liberty with 151,000 miles on it. Since this problem concerns my cooling system, I'll give you some background info:
I bought the car with 83K. Have done coolant changes at 90K, 120K, and 150K. The last service was done immediately after my water pump crapped out. I had a new water pump installed and had the cooling system completely flushed and refilled with Mopar HOAT coolant (per manufacturer's specs).
Today, I brought the jeep in to have the spark plugs replaced and have some warped brake rotors replaced. My mechanic told me that he also found a small crack in my radiator. He said it was near the top of it. I can see evidence of fluid squirting onto the upper radiator hose - there's some white residue on there. There are no cracks in the hose itself. Just the one my mechanic found near the top of the radiator itself.
Here's my question. I'm due for an oil change in 2000 miles. I'm wondering if I can wait until the oil change is due to have him replace the radiator. Would it be smart to just buy a jug of coolant and keep an eye on the level in my reservoir and top it off with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water as needed? Or should I go ahead and just have him do the radiator ASAP? I drive about 30 highway miles round trip to and from work every day.
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The windshield wipers on my 2013 es350 are not stopping on the edge. When I checked on a 2015 es300h, the wipers go all the way to the edge. Is this normal for the es350?
Wiper stops here.....
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Recently had my windshield replaced due to a stone chip and, as suspected, RES+ antenna could not properly be re-attached to inside of glass. Basically, the adhesive left on the antenna is barely attaching the thin antenna elements. And, one of the antenna elements is so thin there is no way you could neatly apply more adhesive and make it look reasonable.
I suspect, the only proper way to return to original condition is to replace the RES+ antenna assembly, too. I'm pretty sure the antenna on the glass is hardwired to the harness that goes all the way to the control module inside the dashboard, although I hope I'm wrong.
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Is it just as simple as when the wipers activates when it senses water drop on front windshield? the sensor is turned on and it started to not work time to time recently. What's going on?
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My stock OEM fuel tank has a crack in it. I've got to replace it. I was thinking of getting a TransferFlow replacement tank. It would nearly double my capacity. My wife wants me just to go stock to save the money, but I'm thinking the extra capacity would be nice. One thing that did concern me, however, is how much my fuel efficiency might diminish because of the extra weight of the tank (150 lbs) plus fuel. Since it is a gas truck, not many options.
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I have been searching the web and can't seem to find any information on replacing the turn signal halogens with LEDs on the 2013 ES350. Is there a hyper-flash issue? The Lexus LED Flasher Turn Signal Relay (81980-50030) doesn't appear to be compatible with the 2013 model. I don't really want to go the resistor route, am I missing something? I would like to install VLEDs Platinum 21 Amber(Front) and Red(Rear).
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I am replacing the driver side up front control arm as the ball joint has gone bad. Got a febi/bilstein arm and all the necessary bolts from ecs. Lifted up the car, front pinch bolt is seized of course so it is currently soaking in pbblaster. The nut came off fine, which I've read doesn't always happen.
On to my question, I loosened up the rear bolt on the control arm, but it has no room to come out? Ive been searching through old threads both on here and passat world for a diy. I found the one on audi world that many people link to. And it seems to skip over this little part.
As of now the only option I can think of is to cut the head off the bolt, and push force the rest of the bolt out. But then to reinstall the bolt would have to go in on the other side? I have a picture to hopefully better illustrate what I am talking about.
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I noticed it in my 2014 RX last weekend. I've only had it for a month!
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Have a 2008 RX350. It is our first Lexus product. The dashboard has begun to crack. Now has 4 cracks of various sizes. Contacted Lexus they said too bad. This should not happen to a Luxury vehicle. Sure makes the interior look like crap.
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My '03 driver's side door has been opened enough, and unfortunately with force when it catches a wind gust or opens downhill, etc, that it's actually resulted in a lengthening crack in the middle of the inside door panel. There are two hinges that are fine, which actually keep the door attached to the car frame.
In between, on the higher side of the inside of the door, there's a 'stopper' bolted to the door, with a bracket 'inside' the door. That's where the force of the door opening is applied to the door itself, and where the crack has appeared. It's already a good 4-6 inches long, and presumably will keep going.
In my head, the options seem to be:
-wait for the stopper to fully rip a piece of the door off, at which point the door will open all the way into the car itself.
-attempt a small scale weld 'in place' with a small overlay strip across the crack.
-pull the door all the way apart to where the welder felt more comfortable doing a solid repair job.
-find a replacement door altogether.
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Was wondering, there is a crack in their shifter bezel?
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I just bought HID for my fog lights. I was looking all over the internet for how to install them, but i couldn't find any. I have a 2013 Camry SE. It came with stock fog lights. Also there is a lip cover on the bottom of my bumper. I was wondering how to install HID fog lights successfully?
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09 RX acquired late December 09. Now we are seeing a crack appearing on the passenger side from the storage box upwards. Car is always garaged and hardly eve in long times in sun. Is this a warranty event?
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Purchased new SF in April 2014. The noise insulator in the left hand front fender (Fits inside the fender behind the door hinges. Appears to be foam covered in plastic.) is missing. Can be seen If you open your front doors. Fills the cavity from top to bottom.
Dealer has ordered part but is telling me that the front bumper cover and fender will need to be removed to fit.
I would have thought that they would only need to remove the wheel and fender liner to fit. Ten minute job!
Not keen at all on them pulling the fender off.
RHS insulator seems to be a loose fit in the fender cavity and can easily be moved around.
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have a 2013 Passat SE and just installed the Audi style headlights that I won on Ebay. But having some problems with them. Turning signals don't work, One of the low beams(HID) burnt out 20 min into driving, and the LED's do not turn on as the DRLS or with the low beams, I have to switch to brights to get them to come on. The DRL is the halogen highbeam...I do not have any VAG COM experience nor do I own a scanner...what should I do?
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