I assume it's normal but at say 35 MPH or so coasting down a hill when applying the brake the RPM's rise to around 3K. Auto downshift to support braking?
View 10 RepliesI just purchased a LS 460 2007, 64k miles. The brake when apply squeal, but not all the time when the break is applied. 5 times out of 10 times when you apply the break when driving the car for more than 20 minutes it start to squeal. It does not squeal when you first drive in the morning, but after driving more than 20 minutes, when you apply the brake - it will squeal on and off during various application of the break. Does the LS460 have brake indicator that would squeal all the time when you need new break? I am not sure what the sign that LS460 would need new break and rotor.....
View 4 RepliesMy drivers seat feels like it moves slightly after applying the brakes and then back on the gas like when you almost come to a full stop. The car is CPO with 22k and new to me so I can't say how long it's been happening. I feel like I remember a similar problem and TSB with the 2 gen IS but I'm not sure. I'm just trying to get some info before taking it to the dealer.
View 14 RepliesWas coasting down a hill(manual transmission) and the car stalled out on me. Tried for a couple minutes to restart it with no luck, the engine turns over but just wont start.
As I post this I still haven't got the car home so I haven't been able to do any trouble shooting yet. Once I get it home I'll ceck for fuel and spark, and from what I have read already people have said it could be the Crankshaft Sensor.
2001 Accent 1.5 - Manual
Up until this there has been no signs of any issues with running or starting...
I finally got a recording of this, after trying to describe it without much success. Dealer drove the car 2x and claimed they don't hear it.
Video here, turn up your sound... noise happens just as the gas is let off...
As you can hear (if you turn speakers up, recording isn't very sensitive), it's kind of a high pitched whistling sound or whining sound. Happens when coasting (foot off gas) at 60mph. In gear or neutral, same noise. Only around that speed, only when foot off the gas.
What do you think this is? Some have suggested wheel bearing but if you listen this is more of a steady high pitched noise, not a helicopter like sound.
This morning I was driving my 08 Lexus RX350 in fresh snow in Boston area. When I applied brake I noticed the wheel slipping/sliding and I heard brake noise (some sort of cracking noise - I don't know how to define that sound :-). It was fresh snow, may be an inch or two and I was driving around 10 miles. I have to pound on the brakes and it took few seconds before it stopped and I narrowly avoid hitting the suv in front of me.
I was driving with all season tires and ECT snow mode was not on during that time. Could that be a problem?
A week back I replaced the rear brake pads (akebono ceramic) & rotors (raybestos) at a local garage. Will it be a problem with the way it is replaced? or will there be any issue with ABS?
I purchased a ES300h in March 2013. Starting end of September I noticed a rattle (pebbles in a tin can tumbling sound) when I went up a slight grade, accelerating from a stop, or accelerating after a brief coasting on the freeway. The first time at the dealer they said stop using Costco gas and use Top Tier. I used Shell and Chevron and there was a 80% improvement but the nuisance still continued, some days more and some days less, meaning when it rained it poured.
On the third visit to the dealer, with two specialists on a ride along of course it does not make that noise, but left it there for them to find the continued problem and they conceded it is engine knock to which there is nothing out of specs with the engine AND say that this is normal. I have never had a car do this, maybe specific to hybrids? The service advisor goes on to tell me that they filled my tank with 91 octane to stop the knock, BUT, the manual says use 87!!!
Some say this can lead to engine damage, some say only blown gasket, the dealer says no problem! A friend of mine has the same car and has no issues.
Annoyed by the wheezing noise on 2014 ES300H? It only happens when I let go off the gas pedal or breaking. Is there a way to rid of it?
View 5 RepliesI was coasting down a steep hill yesterday when the CEL came on. I pulled the code this morning and got code P0174, system too lean bank 2.
I cleared the code. Should I just wait to see if it happens again? The truck is running great. There is no sign of a problem. BTW, it's 99 F150 5.4.
I have a 2013 RX 350 AWD and I'm wondering if it is equipped with hill assist. If so, how does it work?. On my other ride (Q50), the car won't roll backwards on a hill if I let go of the brake.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Mazda Tribute that seems to have a bit of an idling issue. When my heat on my car is off, everything is fine as far as the idle speed. When I have the heat on, even when it is low, and I am stopped, the rpm's rise a bit, then go back down to normal idling speed. The car also gives a little jump when I come to a stop. I think all of this is related to turning the heat on and off, as it doesn't happen when the heat is on.
View 11 RepliesI have recently purchased a 1998 Toyota Camry 4 cyl. I had to replace the water pump as it was leaking coolant, I also changed the front and rear brakes and also the front rotors. As I was driving it after the brake change I noticed that I would seem to lose power, kind of like it wasn't getting any fuel or something. My rpms would go down, but most of the time would quickly rise again when I pushed on the gas.
View 3 RepliesOk my car is tripping... been like this for a while, just never REALLY bugged me until lately... Example... I am at a light put it in first, have my foot on the gas... I slowly give it some gas.. rmps start to rise. NOW! without adding any pressure to gas, it kinda jolts or studers... happens for like a split second, and than the rpms continue top raise and i go into second... So now i just rev a bit and go quickly into second.
View 14 RepliesI've noticed the 2013 Corolla has a second+ gap between the moment you press the pedal and the engine RPMs actually rise. Most often, the car jerks as the RPMs rise too fast to keep up with my foot.
In fact, if I press the pedal all the way to the floor and release it quickly enough, the engine doesn't even react.
My Legacy sedan is not behaving well. On more than one occasion, when pressing on the accelerator, the rpms do not rise. I put it in park and try to press gas pedal, nothing. Turn the car off and let rest for a few minutes, then start it up again, and it's fine.....
View 3 RepliesI have a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII, black on black, basically one owner, excellent condition... except one problem. While driving the car my speed dropped to 40mph, while my RPMs rose to 4000. Upon checking I found the plastic clip, which holds the linkage from the transmission to the accelerator had snapped. I replaced the part and still have the same problem...is my transmission smoked or is there an adjustment?
View 4 RepliesJust got the Tiguan SE- love it! We have had it for about 3 weeks. I noticed sometimes while applying the brakes, the RPM's will go up as I am slowing down. I know the car has to move between gears when slowing down or speeding up, but it almost as if it gets "stuck" in a gear when the car is slowing down. Any thoughts, input? We don't drive fast, we apply the brakes and gas slowly to ease the car in. This just seems odd as my past car (2005 Maza 3) did not do this. I am new the VW family so maybe I am just not used this.
View 6 RepliesIt started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
View 3 RepliesI have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
I have a 06 B6 that I am having issues with. We took a trip to Vegas in June and had no problems the entire way. We get home and the next day he starts throwing a CEL. We take it to our mechanic to have him VAG COM it and he says it is running rich at idle. The mechanic says that we may have gotten some bad gas when we left Vegas. Ok, no worries, we put new gas in the car along with some fuel cleaner and it seems to be ok. I drive the car 7 miles each way to work, and the way I break is that I coast into it before I brake. I noticed that the RPM's started jumping around. My husband took it to the mechanic and he said to clean the MAF and to take the intake off. Done, still getting a CEL.
So I take it back to the mechanic and he says its the seal inside the High Pressure Fuel Pump, while because of the CamFlower/Fuel Pump issue the only one in Phoenix is 50 miles away and at an Audi dealership that wanted to mark it up 50%. He also said that it smelled like fuel under the oil cap. So I go and get it, only to get it put on (Wednesday), everything good and then I notice today(Friday) that it is still jumping around. I have had the code cleared today but I am afraid that it is still something else. The CEL is off but for how long I dont know.
My 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem.I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons.Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue.It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning"
Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?