Lexus GS 2013+ :: Brake Stuck, Electronics Stopped When Restarted After Idle
Nov 12, 2015
I had a strange issue today when I left work and started my car. I got in, put my foot on the brake and pushed the ignition button like normal. The lights all came on for a moment and then everything just went out. The brake felt stuck and no electronics would work and the engine did not start. I couldn't get anything to work, I thought my battery was dead, however when I got out of the car (key in my pocket as usual) the car came back to life. I got in and started and it worked fine.
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I just painted my caliper and now I hear some popping sound when I brake or when I completely stopped. if I bring it to the dealer will they denied the warranty because I painted the caliper?
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'15 Gs350 FSport. 4K miles. I have been able to replicate this issue, and won't have time to bring it into shop until next week.
I am at a stop light after driving for a bit. Car in drive obviously, foot on brake. If I press the brake very firmly, almost to where it hits the floor board, the slip indicator light comes on and flashes, and call stalls (or goes into idle). I am forced to shift car into park, and then shift back into drive. Or I have to turn car off, and back on again.
What was going on - I was reaching over to the passenger seat while at a stopped light and pressed down the brake pretty hard by accident. But I am now able to replicate it.
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Just bought a L/Certified pre-owned 2013 ES 350. I am shocked at how much the car vibrates and noise increases when stopped at a light or stop sign. I tried a 2015 ES 350 and the same thing occurs!! The dealership technician says everything is operating "to specification". This is a disgrace for such a high-tech, luxury car.
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2001 LX 2.7L 4WD. Was driving home the other day. Stopped along the way, and when I restarted the car, the ac was blowing hot air. It was working perfectly up to this point. It did not fail with any noise, just quit working.
After some tests, I've realized that the clutch coil is open, and the clutch does not engage. It is getting power when the ac button is pressed. The clutch spindle turns manually, but there is some resistance - it does not spin freely. Also, there is a whining noise now when driving - even without the clutch actuated - I'm thinking its a bad bearing in the compressor.
Repair shops want to do the whole compressor replacement job. What are my chances of getting away with the coil and bearing replacement as stated in this thread Ac In-op ? Or is the clutch resistance and the whining noise a sign that the compressor is dead?
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Owner of a brand new '13 Prius C Two. No "Entune" system, just the basic radio. I connect my iPhone 5 via Bluetooth; it works wonderfully. I can still use the handset controls to make phone calls; I have speed dials set up, and using my iPhone 5 as a phone in the car works great.
What stopped working this morning: skipping tracks using either the "Seek" button on the Prius radio itself as well as the controls on the steering wheel. Volume controls on the radio itself AND on the steering wheel work just fine for adjusting the volume.
The "Pause/Play" button on the Prius radio does work, but only after about :04 seconds or so. A song or podcast will play; the steering wheel controls for skipping tracks does not work; same with the Seek button on the radio itself; and pressing the pause/play button works, but not immediately after depressing it. Takes a few seconds.The only way to skip ahead/backward is on the iPhone itself.
For the almost 2 months I've owned the Prius C, this is the first time this has happened. Connecting audio via Bluetooth has "just worked" every single day. What's perplexing about this is that I've changed nothing on the iPhone overnight. The Seek button on the Prius radio worked fine yesterday, as did the steering wheel controls not even 24 hours ago.
The Seek button on the radio itself does work with the radio and a CD. Same with the steering wheel controls; as long as I'm not trying to control the iPhone, it works fine.
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We have a 1996 Dodge Dakota SLT that we purchased used. It starts and runs beautifully when the engine is cold; however, if you turn the vehicle off it is difficult to get it restarted and to keep it idling without keeping your foot on the accelerator. The funky thing is that after your "fight" with it a few minutes (i.e., foot constantly on the accelerator), the truck will then start to run correctly and idle correctly until the next time you turn off the engine. We have noticed that on each occasion when we have had this problem, the engine smells EXTREMELY flooded. We've been told its a temperature sensor, any other number of sensors, and now the IAC. If starting by process of elimination with least expensive fix first, what the heck do we replace first?
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So I was heading to the airport and needed gas and was in a bit of a hurry to get my flight. I pressed on the gas door as usual expecting it to pop open a bit it didn't! It only pressed in more but did not pop out. I started to panic as I was low on gas and did not have a lot of time to get my flight. I looked in the trunk for some type of emergency release but did not see anything.
I locked and unlocked my door a few times in the hopes it would release somehow but it did not change and I did not notice the usual click from the gas door area. Finally I was able to force the door open with my fingers and get gas. Now when closing the door again it does not sit flush but is sitting in a slightly open position. I'm scared to mess with it more in case it locks shut again and I can't get gas.
I'm shocked this part would stop working the car is only two years old, 2013 with luxury package.
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My car is only a few months old with less than 3000 miles. It has started to vibrate while at red lights occasionally.
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So the blue light indicating eco mode on the dash has become permanent despite turning to sport, or normal mode. Bought it used a few months ago but could have sworn it would turn red for sport when I first brought it home. Have tried just about everything short of unplugging the battery. I can't imagine the red light would be burnt out already and the blue light should not stay on when I change to normal mode either. Maybe my car is trying to tell me to always stay in eco...since I did come from a corolla
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My navigation traffic stopped showing before it would've showed on freeways mainly orange line if slow traffic and red line if heavy traffic or green if no traffic. No lines what so ever noticed this been few weeks its not showing even when I am in heavy traffic, I also checked the option is turned on to show traffic. Is there something wrong that I'm not aware of? Regarding 15 GS
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Something seems to have changed with the '13 ES 350 I bought in October. The side mirrors have stopped pointing down when the car is in reverse.
I don't believe that I've changed and settings but furious finger poking might have taken place as some point in the recent past. What has changed?
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So I've noticed that when I am stopped and press the brake pedal all the way the traction control light comes on.
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My driver's side mirror started having problems adjusting. I first noticed when the mirror tries to reset from auto tilting when in reverse. It was go to a certain point and start clicking as if something was blocking it from resetting.
If you push it with your hand it makes a terrible sound but then it can be adjusted without issue. It sounds terrible and I don't want to make things worse so I disabled the auto-tilt function.
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So I was driving to work this morning and when I'm stopped at a red light my car idled from 800 rpm all the way down to 400 rpm. It literally felt like the car was going to shut off on me.
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I have been noticing that the idle in my car while stopped at a light will sometimes drop to 500 rpm. This makes the car feel shaky at idle. As soon as I put it into neutral or reverse the rpm jump to 750 rpm. Intermittent issue, what this could be??? Its probably happened 3-4 times in the last 6 weeks. Its annoying.
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The closest car wash is less than two miles from our home and we often bring the GX home directly from the car wash and park it in the garage. We've noticed that the parking brake remains applied when we start the GX the next morning, even though the foot pedal releases. Presumably, the parking brake components were wet from the car wash and enough rust/corrosion forms overnight so that the springs to release the brake can't overcome the 'stiction'.
The GX "squats and grunts" when we put it in gear, but doesn't move. Shifting into reverse solves the problem ... there's a loud 'pop' from the rear of the vehicle as the brake releases, the GX starts to move, but in reverse, which we quickly stop with the service brake, then we shift into forward and drive off ... did I mention that we back into our garage?
I may already have confessed that we are heavy parking brake users ... every time we park the vehicle, even if just temporarily while we step out of the vehicle to get the mail, etc. We use the parking brake so much that the cable stretches and every year our dealership has to re-tension.
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While driving home from work today all my control functions stops working. All the steering wheel buttons, radio functions, and the center display screen all froze up. It wasn't until I restarted to car for everything to work again. What all that components have in common?
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I just purchased a 2004 GX with only 45K miles and I love the truck. I have driven one with the TSB clunk and my current problem is different. When I stop at a light and go to start driving again I feel a thud when I take my foot off of the brake. There is no problem when I stop just when I go to start again. Is this a serious problem or normal?
I talked to Lexus before buying the truck and they said that the TSB fix had been repaired.
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Not sure if this is normal so I've found that my car is idling very low in rpm's and feels like the car is shivering along with me! (hint: its really cold here) I took a very short video [URL] ....
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My brake light burned out. It's a led light. Lexus says the entire lens bracket needs to be replaced. So you can't replace just the bulb. First, it seems odd that the LED light burned out on a 2013 car. Aren't they supposed to last quite a while. Second, bulbs wouldn't be covered under warranty. So am I just SOL?
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