Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Oil On Spark Plug?
Jul 14, 2014
ive been meaning to change my spark plugs cause I had gotten an error code for a misfire but it seemed to go away.now some time last week I was kinda racing a friend of mine on the highway was doing like about 80-90 mph when the check engine light came on and the check VSC and the car started like sputtering. so I was thinking ok great the misfire is happening again, but this time it was different it would stutter at low speeds before it would stutter like around 70 mph. so I parked the car ordered new spark plugs when I went to change them one of them had oil on it and the ignition coil. it was the one closet to the front of the car on the passenger side. my question is what could cause this to happen.
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The car is a 2010 with 65,000 miles on it. When I purchase a used car I make a habit of changing all the fluids and doing a tune up regardless of its service history.
While doing the spark plugs I found that one of the spark plug wells had about 3 inches of oil inside of it. The spark plug tube gasket had failed. I was surprised that the car was not misfiring yet.
Luckily it is just still in warranty and the dealer is fixing it at no cost to me. However most everyone will find this problem when it is too late as the service manual says not to change the spark plugs until 120,000 miles!
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Just replaced spark plugs in my 2007 Sonata V6 and noticed that my MPG has dropped from about 24 to 19! I used NGK Iridium plugs, and also changed the PCV valve at the same time. Mileage is 136,000. Could the internal computer (that does the MPG calculation) have gotten messed up by all of the disconnecting/unplugging that I had to do to get the surge tank off? (BTW - the engine runs great - just the MPG went way down).
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I have a 2006 Fx4 with 60,000 miles. I wanted to change the spark plugs myself yet I can't seem to find were they are in the engine, I know how to take them out but I don't know how to get to them.
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So, last weekend the GF said she had been hearing a tick in her 2006 4L Ranger. I crawl up under it and see the right rear spark plug and wire vibrating and could tell it was loose. I jack it up, take the right front tire off, pull the liner back, and finally get a socket on the plug to tighten it. I tighten it by hand first the then the finale snug down with the ratchet.
I notice it snugged up but I just felt it was trying to slip so I stopped. Well, it lasted two days and now has fallen out again. It appears the head is stripped. I am going to pull the plug out tonight and see if I can see where the threads are stripped. I assume I will find material on the threads of the plug.
My question is, is there anyway for me to make a temp fix till there is time to pull the head and repair it properly? I saw NAPA used to have a kit for the Triton engine but when I went to their web site I couldn't even find that anymore.
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I have a 2006 F250 5.4L. I was getting a noticeable misfire after not driving the truck for a while. Mode 6 revealed that cylinder #8 was misfiring.
I took off the coil/boot and there was coolant on the tip of the boot and some at the bottom of the spark plug well.
I cleaned everything up and put everything back together and that took care of that problem when I started the car. I also stuck a wad of paper towel by the intake manifold nearest spark plug number 8 and tightened the manifold bolts down a little. Some of them were not as tight as others.
I went back today and started the vehicle and it has the same problem again!
I took a look at the paper towel and it was totally dry! There is no coolant around the top of the spark plug well - only in the bottom of it. Where is this coolant even coming from? There are no coolant lines near cylinder #8. Is this a head gasket leak?
I have taken a look at the head gasket and that doesn't seem possible since the head gasket does not seal around the spark plug well at all as far as I can tell.
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I have a 2007 Lexus GS350 rear wheel drive. My battery died to this guy try to give me a jump and he connected the jumper box the wrong way, we had a little spark and then we try to connect the jumper the rite way but car will not start. I replaced the battery with a new battery, no start. the horn works but the rest is dead.
I was trying to locate a main fuse but was not able to. Do these cars have a main fuse? What should i look for.
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I'm wondering when I should get the spark plugs change.
I have 08 GS350 with 57k.
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I want to change spark plug, took connector of spark unit and took bolt M6 out, lifted spark unit but not enough clearance to remove the unit in order to use wrench for unscrewing spark plug. How it works?
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Today I began to change the plugs on my '04 Camry 4cyl for the first time at a little over 100 thousand miles. The first plug I came to doesn't want to come loose. I started with a 8" ratchet, now I'm on it with a 12 " ratchet and it doesn't budge. I'm able to go up to 3' and almost anything in between with a breaker bar plus a cheater, but I've heard terrible tales of people who break off a plug. How much force can you safely put on a plug? how do shops remove stuck plugs?
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I have a 91 corolla 1.6 5 speed. There is oil in one of the spark plugs and its covering the entire bottom of the spark plug, which is also making the car sputter as it runs. I'm told the seals are bad? If so, what kind of seal is this? Where is it located inside the engine exactly? If not, what else could it be?
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I was going to change the spark plugs on my 08 Camry CE today, so I removed one of the starters, and used my spark plug socket to extract the plug. The plug was sticking, so I pulled my socket out to get a better look at the plug, but when I pulled it out I noticed that there was a brown slimy liquid a good inch up the socket (I assume it was oil?). I looked down into the chamber and saw the plug surrounded by the fluid, and now I'm freaking out. Should I have my car towed to the mechanics and have them look at it? I feel like this can't be normal.
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I have a 2010 camry se 2.5l (2ar-fe). I replaced spark plugs and found oil in #4. It was on plug not in cylinder. There is a little oil at bottom of spark plug tube. My guess is there is a gasket/seal at bottom of spark plug tube. Am I correct? How to replace?
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Continuing from this thread which I accidentally posted in the "main" forum.
I had trouble unscrewing the spark plug even though the advertised torque is only 13 ft-lb and the car is only 13K miles 1.5 year old.
I googled "spark plug stuck" and read some posts on line.
Lots of horror stories of broken spark plugs and stripped threads - big $ to repair.
[URL]
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I have a Toyota 2001 Echo and after about 5 min of driving, it starts to stutter when I step on the gas and shake back/forth. It gets worse going up hills. Once it starts, it continues at any speed and doesn't have the normal power but doesn't die. Stepping on the gas harder doesn't increase the RPMs like it should. Thinking it might be the spark plugs, I removed the cap on one plug and found the well with about 2 cm of clear, yellow oil. Is this bad? if so, how bad?
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My wife called me from the dealer and they said they wanted to change the spark plugs at 40,000 mi.??? Is this really necessary?
My M5 recommended interval was 50,000 Miles Seems really low to me Regardless of what the manual says any either way?
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OK, this technically isn't for the Ex (since it's a diesel), but I do need to replace the spark plugs in a Ford V8 soon. Problem is I've been running diesels for a long time and haven't really kept up with spark plugs.
Seems like there's lots to choose from now. Regular old fashioned, double tip, triple tip, platinum, kryptonite, thermo-nuclear tip, etc. Is one spark plug really any better than another, or is it all just marketing gimmicks? Is it worth spending extra for some fancy sounding spark plug?
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I'm 2 hours from home #10 spark plug blew out I pulled the injector cable and coil cable is it safe to drive home that way?
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I have a '99 Rodeo 2.2L, 2wd with 60k. Time for new plugs and wires. Any engine diagram? I haven't found the Distributor Cap.. AND... my Haynes Repair Manual mentions coil packs... when I went to AutoZone for Spark Plug wires, they didn't say anything about coil packs.
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i have a 98 buick century has around 180000 miles and it ran perfect, then two days ago i changed my spark plugs b/c they were 2+years old i got NGK Vpower and gapped them to .06. i had to roll the engine forward when i got to the back 3 plugs. so anyways after all pugs were changed i took it for a drive it was running fine, then i noticed when i got on the highway when i had to accelerate it missed a few times then on down the road it would go fine until i had to give it a little gas.
It jerks a little bit and it sounds like shit. But it idles alright and light acceleration thru town is fine. i also had it tested at autozone and i got a bunch of stuff about vacuum something and 02 sensor but nothing about misfire or coil pack malfunctioning. all the vacuum tubes on the engine are all sealed that i can see. and like i said it ran perfect before hand so i know its nothing internal. i just cant figure what happened.
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Had the #2 ignition coil go bad (for the second time, mileage is only 84K) and decided to proactively replace all the spark plugs at the same time. #2 coil came out fine and replaced the plug with a toyota irridium. However, the #4 and #6 coils each separated from their respective boots. I was unable to extract either boot. I was able to re-insert the coils without replacing the spark plugs and the engine is running fine (no codes). Before I take on #1 , 3, and 5, I'd like to extract the stuck boots in #4 and 6 and replace the plugs.
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