Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Keyless Entry Button To Unlock And Lock Car Not As Loud As Before
Jun 11, 2014
I have a 2006 Lexus GS 300 and I have had the car for almost two years now. I have noticed that when I use my keyless entry button to unlock and lock the car, its not as loud as it was in the past. My key fobs all have new batteries in them (2 kays for the car). Could this mean that I need a battery soon? When I first got the car, the "beep beep" noise from when you lock and unlock the car was louder, now you can barely hear it.
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Let me start by saying the car is the 2002 ford focus and has a remote starter keyless entry and alarm that has been in stalled years ago so the one day I'm trying to go inside my car and the unlock button on the key fob doesn't work so I put the key in the door and open it all the doors unlock.
I ignored it when I'm leaving the car I lock it with the key fob it chrips then my son rushes outside and opens the door. That's when I noticed the door didn't lock then I try the door switch to lock and unlock the doors but nothing happens I tried the passenger switch nothing
Symptoms : Both driver and passenger door lock switches are not working If I hit the unlock button twice on the key fob all the doors unlock...
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My keyless entry didn't work this morning on the way to work....the parking lights came on and stayed on awhile but no dice on unlocking. I figured no biggie and tried to unlock the door with the key...the door lock won't rotate. I went in the house and tried keyless again with the spare keyfob....still nothing. I didn't have time to keep messing around so I just drove my car today. It's a 2012 F150 w/ a little under 6K miles.
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I noticed that the Treg unlocks automatically (without touching or doing anything) when I approach the PASSENGER side of the car, heck sometimes it even automatically unlocks again as soon as I lock it using the button on the passenger side door handle to lock...... this does not happen if i'm standing on the DRIVER side though... it almost seems like the passenger side keyless access antenna is super sensitive or something as the phenomenon does not seem to occure if i'm more than a few (5-6) ft away from the car...... is this normal/abnormal? can it be adjusted somehow in the MFI? I tried to change the door option on the MFI to unlock only one door and the problem seems to go away, but when ALL DOORS is selected, this always happens...
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1999 Toyota 4 Runner's keyless entry (with new battery) will not unlock the car. The "lock" button works fine. Using the manual key for entry triggers the theft alarm. The only way to stop the alarm is by using the unlock button on the remote, which as stated, is not working. It does not make sense to me that I cannot use the standard key to enter the vehicle. In essence, I am locked out of my own car.
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I noticed today that the red (panic) button cover is lost from my keyless entry (silver Toyota logo) Gen II 2008 remote.
What I basically need is a broken remote, essentially just that red rubber cover.
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Strange problem. 2006 4 door Camry. Only the drivers door unlocks when using remote or the unlock button on the door panel. The three other door have to unlocked manually. All 4 doors lock with the remote or the button on the drivers door normally. Not sure if this is a door switch problem or a remote problems or how to further isolate this?
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I have got a new 4 button key fob for my 05 F350. How to program this unit for the keyless entry and the remote starter.
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Randomly, the remote keyless entry system of my 2009 Jeep Wrangler will fail to unlock the doors. When this happens and I then use the key in the door the alarm goes off. As soon as I insert the key in the ignition the alarm will deactivate (as it should). After the first few times I took it to the dealer and a computer was replaced. It kept happening. I took it back to the dealer and now they claim that it is normal! If I use the key to unlock the doors otherwise, no alarm. So, why the periodic failure?
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So my daughter has a Subaru Outback with keyless entry and push button start, and her battery kept dying overnight. It turns out that she was keeping her second key fob within 10 feet of the car, so the car's electrical system was kept on all night (sensing that she was approaching the car) running the battery down. The lesson learned (the hard way) was to keep your key fobs far enough away from the car so the electrical system is not constantly energized.
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I have a 2008 fully loaded Prius.
Keyless entry. it will not lock but pressing the black nubs or via either set keys. It some times beeps or does nothing.
I verified all doors are closed and there is no door open light on the dash. Every time I exit the car the car gives 3 beeps and the key light on the dash flashes.
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It's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.
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If your truck came with the FOB to open the doors remote, but not the keypad on the door, you can add one. Originally the keypad was hard wired and was an expensive option. Several years later the newer keypads were RF signal just like the FOB. If you have or had FOB, then you have the keyless module on the truck (mounted to firewall infront of the emergency brake).. All you have to do is buy the newer style RF keypad, stick it to the door, and program like the FOB. I just did this on a 2002 F150.
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On Friday, all of a sudden I found that I could not use the keyless feature to lock/unlock my car anymore, and when I tried to start the car with the push button, it showed "key not found" "immobilizer activated". By that time, i still could use the remote key to lock and unlock the car, and start up the car with the key blade. After I drove and parked the car, I went to get a new battery for my key because I thought my battery was giving me the trouble. Then I went back to the car, I was still able to lock and unlock the car with the remote buttons, but I cannot start up the car, even with the key blade. So I disconnected both battery, waited and reconnected them, the car is able to start with the key blade, but can no longer lock and unlock with the remote buttons. So I can only lock the car manually now.
Later, I scanned the car, found there are 2 faults. One is an old fault, which is "the antenna in rear bumper has no signal intermittently", and the new fault is "luggage compartment start/access authorization antenna upper limit exceeded", and gave me a time that this occurred, which is exactly when I first found the keyless entry didn't work on Friday.
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I try to lock the treg with the button on drivers door handle and nothing happens. All other door buttons work fine. Am I in for a new door handle or just another software quirk?
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I have a 2012 Golf R that has the Kessy system. I get "Keyless Defective" on the screen and am unable to lock/unlock doors by touching the handles. Key fob lock/unlock buttons work fine.
It ended up being a plug had come undone. I have a feeling it's the one that's just under the back of the rear seats. I was installing stereo wiring and it kept coming apart. What to look for under the hatch floor or the seats?
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My keyless entry is suddenly acting funny. 2010 manual accent hatch, bought new, no problems at all so far. 50k on the clock.
Usually when I press the unlock button, the marker lights flash once and the drivers door unlocks, press again you get another single flash and the other doors unlock. Right?
Press the lock button and it should flash twice and lock the car. Press lock again and it will honk.
I had not driven the car for about one week and this morning the locks work ok, but the lights and horn are not doing what they should.
When I unlock, I get no flashing lights at all. When I lock I get the double flash, but no horn. Also, the panic mode works as it should, lights and horn.
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My brother just bought a 2006 Ford Explorer XLT 4x2 4.0 V6. Where to find the code for the keyless entry? I took a look under the dash "driver side" but didn't see anything....
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I just bought a 2006 Texas Edition F150 with key less entry but the instructions and assigned codes did not come with it. How do I find what the code is to operate the system?
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All of a sudden, my 2008 prius, basic package without the smart entry system, stopped locking or opening the doors when i pressed the button.
At first i thought it must be a dead battery, so i replaced it with a new one and got the exact same behavior. i checked the old battery and it was still giving off 3 volts as was the new one when i checked that with a volt meter. when i press any of the buttons on the key, a small led light goes on and on the dashboard a picture of a key lights up briefly. the owner's manual does not show the key as a warning light.
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How to Adjust Door Lock Settings
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
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