Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Switched From Manual Mode To Automatic And Car Skids 40 Feet And Just Stops
Dec 27, 2013
I'm driving home from work around 10:15pm and driving around 45mph; I switch my car from the manual mode to automatic and all of a sudden my car skids 40 feet and just stops. No lights on the dash, just completely stops and locks up the rear tires. I am in the middle of the road at this point and try to restart the car and put it into drive and the car just jolts forward and makes a grinding noise. I was still in shock at the moment, and a cop pulls behind me and asks me what is going on and I tell him the situation. He says he needs to call a tow truck to move the car. I brought it home and now I don't know what to do. The car is a lexus 2007 gs350 awd with about 104k miles, I don't think the car should just stop while driving 45 mph and come to a skidding stop.
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I bought my prius IV brand new in December, and its my first one. One thing i've noticed that's different, but when I have my AC on auto (I've preferred using Auto since my last car..) I notice when its cold out, it only blows to my feet, then eventually maybe after driving for about 45 minutes or so it will eventually switch to feet and air. Is this normal? Why it goes to just feet only for so long?
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how to use the steptronic on the RC , it's going to shift by itself or i had to press the shifted pedal to bring up the gear , before i had a BMW so usually it autoshift on DS mode , what about the shifting on the RC.
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I've had my GTI almost 2 months now, and I love almost everything about it. Recently I've noticed that the shifter makes a thunking noise and seems to seat itself into reverse after I put it in reverse and back up 10 feet or so. It seems to happen at lease half the time, but not every time. It does not happen if I keep my hand on the shifter. Is it worth bringing in right away or should I just wait until my 10k service?
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I have only driven my car a handful of times, but I noticed the past two times, that it sticks in 5th gear during the time that the oil temperature finally gets above the 1/4 mark until it finally settles.
It doesn't stick before reaching the quarter mark, and as far as I can tell, it doesn't stick in auto mode. This doesn't sound like something that should be normal, but what say you?
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My 4x4 4WD Ranger has a 5 speed manual tranny that locks up after going forward a few feet. It can back up all day long but locks up going forward. some god awful noises (grinding, clunking, etc) come out of that gearbox. the 4wd is electrically operated. the ? is , can this tranny be rebuilt with a kit? I'm having great difficulty finding a replacement. Are bronco II's compatible? Engine is 2.9L V6. On disassembly I found 2 meshing gears with broken teeth.
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Driving in normal mode and the transmission in auto. Once the car gets up to temp, (usually at a stop), move the gear selector to manual mode. If you punch it, I have not issues shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, but sometimes, the up shift paddle will need to be hit multiple times in 2nd before the car will shift to 3rd.
It seems to only happen the first time I go from auto mode to manual mode during a drive cycle. It happens on my car and another car I test drove.
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I was driving along today and my dash lit up light a Christmas tree. I got PCS, ABS, Brake and BSM lights and I was locked out of first gear in manual mode. Other than the lights and having to driving in auto mode, the car drove fine. When I got home I inspected the rear suspension and saw that the driver's side speed sensor's rubber shielding where it attaches to control arm was damaged. It was not completely severed, but there was a hole and some exposed copper wiring. I had SPC rear control arms and RSR coilovers installed and the car was lowered about 1.3 inches in rear. I was able to use extra copper wire and electrical tape to temporarily fix the problem. After all the wires where connected and shielded with electrical tape, I got zero lights when I started the car.
I'm not sure how it happened. Maybe the wire was damaged during install or it was pinched due to car being lowered. Whatever the case, make sure the wire is secured in a way to avoid being pinched during suspension travel. I ordered the new wire and will attempt to replace. Looks pretty straight forward except the wire goes into the interior of the car somewhere. I read that I will have to remove rear seats. If so, that should be pretty easy. Is there something I'm missing? Will any of the rear interior need to be removed? How to do this?
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2014 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Wondering why the hvac acts like it is in recirculate mode with the A/C button pushed in manual mode. Have window cracked to force smoke and odors out of cabin. On vent mode it pushes air right out, in A/C mode it acts like recirculate is partially on and in recirculate mode it draws outside air in like you would expect recirculate to do. Trying to decide if I have something wrong or the nature of the beast. My GM vehicles do not act like this.
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When I brake very hard my right front wheel will skid, it releases quickly if I modulate the brakes. I removed the calipers to check for any frozen pistons. They are free. Pads are even and the rotors are good. I did bleed the system and no difference. what would cause this? Since I have looked at the mechanical aspect I wonder if there is sensor issue, is that a potential? I am not even sure if there is a sensor.
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My left headlight has been going off periodically, so to confirm that it's the bulb, tonight I switched the bulbs from left to right/right to left.
The job went very smoothly. It took me about 20 minutes, but I took my time. I buttoned everything back up and turned on the lights. Both sides came on, but I immediately noticed a very loud buzzing/whining sound coming from both headlamps. It is very loud and I know I would have noticed it before at some point over the course of the last three years that I've owned the car. Obviously, this is not normal, but I can't for the life of me figure out what I could have done wrong, if anything.
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Driving home today I was cruising along hwy about 50mph. I threw the shifter over to the manual mode and noticed immediately that it must put it into a lower gear than I was in when I was in automatic bc the rpm jumped up a little higher. I think it put me in 4th or 5th?? I put it back in auto mode and rpms went back to normal. I'm guessing it's the normal way it operates?
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Long time reader and first time poster, first off the truck:
1999 F-250 super duty
130,000 miles
not lifted
stock minus warn premium manual hubs ... v-10
For the past couple of years now I have had a strange grinding noise which is coming from the front end of my truck, it sounds an awful lot like if i was driving over one of the strips on the road that is made to warn drivers they are veering off the road. It first happened a couple of years ago and I took it into les schwab to have them check everything out, of course it never made the noise for them while test driving and after a visual inspection of the front end no conclusion could be made.
After about a month it completely stopped making the noise when going over bumps and i thought that "hey maybe it fixed itself!" well it did not, about 6 months after no strange noises at all it started to happen again, and once again it stopped. Now after about 8 months of it not happening it recently started again and i am determined to figure the problem out this time, it doesnt seem to be any worse of a noise or vibration but is the same as when it first started about 2 years ago. It stops when the vehicle stops, or when i switch it into 4 wheel high on the dash.
After taking it to les shwab again a few days ago they found no problems in the front end, no wheel play or noises when making tight turns (possible signs of bad wheel bearings?) and overall everything checked out well and said that the hubs do eventually need to be replaced in these. 2 days later I took it to 4 wheel parts for an inspection, after all of 10 minutes of driving they assured me that i needed new hubs and that was the cause of the problem, after installing the new hubs (warn premium manual hubs) the problem seemed to be fixed.... 3 hours of driving after the istall and no problems! Until today when I ran over a sewer drain and sure enough the grinding came back, flipped it into 4wd with a quick flip of the switch and no more noise.
I found a few similar on this board before but with no definitive solutions..... Possibilities that I have heard of that would cause this:
-- spindle bearings
-- wheel bearings
-- auto hub hydraulics
-- stock hubs (replaced)
Again this truck is all stock minus the new hubs, taking it into shops has proven to be a giant hassle because it never seems to make the grinding noise while they drive it so they check for wheel play and tell me everything seems fine.
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What is this light and why is it always on for me? It's not referenced in the manuals, but I've noticed that whenever I'm in the car, it's on the entire time unless I switch my lights to DRL Off mode. When I get out and lock the doors, I think it goes off... but I'm also thinking it may have been the cause of my recent 12V battery drain.
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I have a 2008 Honda Fit. It is a manual transmission. I'd like to convert it to an automatic. Is this possible?
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Would it work? I saw this on CL 2000 Ford F250 6 speed manual 2wd transmission. It says it is for 2WD but I don't think that matters because the transfer case is what make it 4WD anyway right?
I don't love automatics. With a manual trans, some new gears and the dully conversion this thing would be like driving a giant sports car. Any computer related problems?
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I was wondering if it would be just a plug and play to exchange manual a/c controls to automatic climate control thingie. Id expect CAN coding but im just wondering if i could just bolt on and code or is there way much more to it like additional control module and what not .... maybe even not possible at all.
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We have a 2003 Honda Civic EX with a manual transmission (5spd). Two of my daughters are close to getting their drivers license, however, they don't drive stick and are hesitant to learn how. My wife is asking me how difficult or expensive it would be to have an automatic transmission placed in the car so they can use it. The car is in excellent shape. It only has 67,000 miles. Is this feasible? Why or why not? If it is feasible who could do it?
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I got a 1990 bmw 735il and I'd like to know how to properly switch from automatic to manual on my transmission it has the switch A to M but I don't know if the car has to be turned off or on, cause I don't want to do it the wrong way
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I have a 2013 Toyota Corolla. I'm maintaining it according to the manual. I hope to keep it for a long time.
I see when reading the manual that the instructions for 6-month interval maintenance stop at 120,000 miles/144 months. There is nothing after that. But Corollas can last upwards of 200K miles.
What do you do at this point when there are no more maintenance instructions? Return to an earlier point in the maintenance instructions and repeat?
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I've got a 2006 GS 300 and in automatic mode, when it turns on my low beam head lights, the driver's side does not turn on automatically. I have to manually turn off the lights then turn them back on and everything works fine. I have aftermarket ~5000K bulbs installed, Garax, I think (I assume they're real ones, I bought them from either XenonDepot or Nigel... can't remember). The bulbs are about 3.5 to 4 years old. Ballasts are the originals.
On a side note, I wasn't really impressed by the Garax. Might switch to Ultinons. Then again the stock 4300k sucked as well. I'd like to get some halfway decent lighting on this car without having to retrofit lenses.
The bulbs are not from XenonDepot or Nigel, they are from theretrofitsource.com (D4S: Morimoto XenGreen (XenGrnD4S) Kelvin 5000K). I don't think they are a quality product, IMO.
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