Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Screeching Of Tires Under Full Lock
Oct 7, 2013
Waiting at a light, hear screeching of tires under full lock. Glance in the rear view mirror to see a Corolla about to smack into us. Missed getting pushed into the van in front of us by less than a foot.
Will be getting estimates this week. I'm guessing $1500ish. Bumper cover, one of the center sensors and not sure of any structural or crush-able components under the cover.
Very fortunate that everything is still properly aligned where the cover meets the rear quarters and no issues with either power trunk alignment/operation nor exhaust issues.
Corolla didn't fare so well.
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I had no clue about this wheel lock feature. People still steal tires?
Anyway, I need to order that one item that will allow the tire people to rotate my tires. What exactly is this part called?
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When I go out in the morning to my c430 and start to reverse always on full lock either right or left the wheels seem to slip or slightly spin - it only happens for a second but it's strange and doesn't always happen.
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Where the power steering reservoir is located on an ES 350 (2013)? I am looking to change the fluid out since my steering wheel is making some noise at full lock. I have been looking under the hood for 2 days now and cannot seem to locate it. I have located the brake fluid reservoir which was flushed out today...night and day difference in braking btw. Now this power steering is bugging me but i cant locate the reservoir.
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I have a 2006 Lexus is350 that has the rather terrible high metallic oem brake pads. The rotors and pads are in great condition, however they produce the most horrific ear piercing screech that can be heard for miles and I've even had people get out of their cars at stop lights to tell me my brakes are really bad. Like I didn't know... So, I've been researching replacement parts while I suck up the fact that I'm probably going to be dropping hundreds of dollars on a cosmetic issue, but it's really so terrible I think I may have to break up with my car if I don't fix it soon.
I've pretty much decided on not skimping, because from all that I've read it seems that given the known issues with the IS line's brakes they really need high quality ceramic and low dust pads. I've been reading a lot of good things about ebc redstuff pads, as well as some good things about akebono premium pads. I also am really confused about what to look for in a rotor.
Lastly, should I do the replacement myself? I'm kind of a novice at diy car repair, in my old (86) volvo I did most of the maintenance and repair myself, but I never had to do brakes or any of the other big things. Just littler things like power steering fluid reservoir, throttle hose, water pump and a few other things. Would I be in over my head replacing my brakes myself? They are just so vital it freaks me out a little bit if I don't do it right things will go terribly for me...
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So I'm new to the all time awd car thing. I came from a 4x4 truck which 4x4 was never engaged on pavement or in tight cornering. When maneuvering my is250 awd in tight spots ie. parking lots and the front wheels are at full lock in either forward or reverse there is a slight binding/grinding feeling or faint noise. Is this normal on an awd car or Lexus specific??? Did a quick search and didn't find much about this issue. I'm pretty sure its not tire rub.....stock set up.
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I'm having issues with very loud screeching noises on my 08 awd. Sounds like a garbage truck. Lexus said its $625 to replace brake pads and rotors to stop the noise. I'm not really a fan of DIY so is that a fair price for the parts and labor or should I bring it somewhere else?
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I found 2 nails in my tires when painting calipers Which leads me to something i didn't really think about when i got my cv2's. I need to take them somewhere special to have the nails taken out & tires patched or plugged.
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On my 2007 GS350 I have an annoying (or) normal problem where the Nav screen has to warm up a little, like an old tube radio, to full brightness when I start up the car on a colder morning. It takes about 15 to 20 seconds. My Lexus dealer first said it was normal but eventually gave up and replaced it. It still seems to be about the same.
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When I accelerate from full stop with 3/4 throttle when car gets to 60-70 mph it stops accelerating for 1 or 2 sec, there is is also a little jerk. After that it continues to accelerate normally. The problem is not present if for instance we drive 30 mph and then use 3/4 or full throttle. I talked to dealer and they said there might be a little jerk but nothing more, and it might be solved by software update. In my opinion its definitely not a slightly jerk, car completely stops to accelerate for a moment. Car has about 45 k miles so its almost like new.
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I own a 2002 and 2011 GS and put the 22" wheels on both. The are very hard to maintain due to put holes, (235/30/22 tire) (22-8.5 rims) flat off set slightly. Very slight rub when turn uphill. I just don't know if it will hurt car such a transmission or engine. Mostly concerned about my 2011.
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I recently had my windshield repaired and since the repair my wipers make a full rotation at each start up. I am starting to notice that the blades are getting beaten up. How I can stop this automatic rotation overtime I start the car?
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On braking my front brakes locks up and there's a screeching of tires. Once I release the pedal all seems fine...or is it?
I dissassembled the front brake calipers and cleaned out the cylinder bores and blew out any contaminants from the line. Reassembled and bled the system only to find the pads doesn't move as freely from the rotors as they should. C-clamped the cylinder as far back in the caliper as it will go, pumped the brakes and still the rotor doesn't move freely from the pads, when the pedal is released...which accounts for the radical "loss of power", as the front brakes are holding on.
Bare in mind the vehicle hasn't seen the long road for almost 5 years and has been under the grinder/ welder/ primer/ sanding for most of that period and only moves out in the driveway when it's a good day to work outside.
New flex hoses? Flush the brake fluid from the whole system and start fresh? New caliper rubber seals? Blow the lines out with compressed air to rid of goop? New proportioning valve?
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I bought a gs 350 AWD about 3 weeks ago and I love it. But one thing I have been noticing is often but not every time from 0-20. I feel vibrations and almost like a skipping/jumping of the tires/car, its very soft. Is this normal?. I still have a dealer warranty of 30 days left. But its kind of far so I wanted to see what it was before I drove 2 hours to have them check it out. what this could be?
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I had my car drop for a while now on megan ez coilover. Before I bought my new set of wheels, I drove the car with the OEM wheels and they never had any cupping issues. Then after I bought my AME Shallen with 20mm hub centric H&R spacers on Nankang NS, and then they started cupping on the front inside tires after 5000 miles. I had the alignment done and only had the toe adjusted.(don't have camber kit) At first i thought it was the spacers causing the issue, but then I bought Orden's with new Nankang NS and had the toe adjusted to spec's again. Camber is at -3 BTW. Recently i started hearing the same road noise so I inspected the tires and found it was cupping in the front again! I also checked the front end of any damage or worn out bushing and couldn't find any signs of damage. I always keep my tires at 40psi, torque them down evenly, and I'm using hub centric rings. My questions is do you think is the Nankang tires or do I have a suspension problem?
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So among the other annoyances my 92 Ranger 4.0 auto has it has a hesitation before it starts spinning the tires under full throttle from a dead stop. It's the 4.0 automatic. I thought it would have more power than it actually does being use to a 2.5 auto. But this 92 4.0 runs and drives good. I've gotten it tuned up with new motorcraft wires, plugs, new coil, fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, idle air valve, new O2 sensor, new Dynomax muffler. I can't find any vacuum leaks. The engine idles slightly rough after you start it up from it sitting for a few hours, but quickly smooths out as soon as you start driving it.
This one here has no EGR. Transmission feels good, may have even been replaced by previous owner before we got it. It shifts good and the fluid is clean and the transmission is the cleanest part under the whole truck. No way of knowing for sure. The truck currently has 111,000 miles and I did all that stuff when we got it at 101,000 miles. So what could it be? I'm thinking a lazy injector or could it be the catalytic converter? Or could it be the throttle body? I know I once had a BBK throttle body on it and it made the world of difference in off the line power but it kept throwing too rich/lean condition and a TPS code so I had to return it. It sucks because it did wake up the motor. I returned it and since then the Check Engine Light hasn't come back on.
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I have a dragging/scraping noise (almost like static or some type of friction) that happens when the wheel is anywhere from ~80% to full lock on either side. At first I thought it was wheel rub (have stock wheels and tires), but there was no evidence of that. Dealer checked the noise and said it was "normal".
2015 GTI S PP with 6 Speed, DCC, LP, and DAP.
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Ive got a good video of this noise and u cant miss it! [URL] ....
This happen what I full lock, or almost, the steering wheel to right, u will see on the video, I even show that it don't do it on the other side.
What the hell this can be ?? im on 16'' winter tires, so its not the tires that rubs.
I have installed the Whileline w.a.l.k. and the Tyrol subframe collars 2 months ago so, I doubt it is the subframe?
Possible bad CV joint? but I heard its more kind of clicking noise that this horrible rub.
Possible front-brakes worn?
What else should I take a look ??
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After 12,000 kms of trouble free motoring on my replacement Treg (first one a lemon) it seems to have developed an unusual problem. The best I can describe this prob is that when I go into almost full turning lock (obviously at snail pace speed) the car shudders quite noticeably. The problem occurs intermittently however as of late at least on 50% of occasions. Seems to be worse after reversing uphill a short distance.
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I have a 2007 GS350, I look in the manual to program the doors to lock when reach over 10 mph but its not working, it stated to push the start button once then move it to N it can't move if the button is push once.
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What to hunt down if there is a creaking sound when the car is parked and turning full lock left and right? Sounds almost like the brakes are locked but slipping slightly but I don't have my foot on the brake.
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