Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Pressure Sensor Won't Warn Unless It Drops Below Low Level
Feb 5, 2011
I have aftermarket wheels and the tire pressure sensors have been transferred over. Since I went from the stock 17" wheels to 20" wheels, I had to increase the tire pressure from 32 to about 38.
1) I'm assuming that since the pressure is now higher with the 20" wheels, the tire pressure sensor won't warn me unless it drops below a really low level (maybe somewhere around 28 psi). Is there any way I can set a higher threshold so that they come on at around 36 psi?
2) The tire shop that installed the wheels transferred over the sensor, but I'm not sure if they actually work since the warning light has ever came on. Do I need to take the car to the dealership for them to start working again?
Based on the my research, some people are saying that only the dealer can reset the TPS so they can start working again. Others are saying that I can reset it myself, but does this reset actually raise the threshold?
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I inherited a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee from my late father and it seems like whenever the temperature overnight drops below a certain level, in the morning the low tire pressure light pops on. I never encountered this problem with any other car I owned, is this something inherent to SUV's with all wheel drive?
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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when i use the squirter for the water on the windscreen i get full pressure for a second then it drops to barely any pressure at all. I thought it was the jets so i checked them with a drawing pin and they flow fine. Are there 2 motors that operate the squirter , is it likely one has gone?
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While driving today, 2006 Ford F-250 5.4 L V8 138,000 miles , I experienced a problem. Started with the truck acting as if it was running rough, possibly missing. This was approx. 10 Minutes after starting. Checked the dash, no warning indicators and all gauges were normal. Approx. 4 more miles, the oil pressure alarm signals and I see the oil gauge has dropped to zero. I pull over, turn off and check the oil. Oil is clean and at a normal level. I restart the truck and the oil pressure goes back to normal.
Rev the truck up while sitting there and after a few seconds i hear a knocking noise in the engine and oil pressure drops again. Call the tow truck, driver used to be a mechanic . He asks me to start it again and the same thing happens. If you start it and let it idle oil pressure seems to go up to normal with no engine noise. Finally get to the mechanic and he calls me later saying the oil pump and screen may need to be replaced or the engine may need to be replaced.
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So for the last couple of weeks I've been noticing small drops of oil on my garage floor. So today I took the plastic off the bottom of the engine and the carpet was full of oil.(Not Good). So I was check it out an noticed an oil return line of some sort the had drips coming off of it but I'm not sure the name of it. I know it prob sounds silly. But I can take it to the shop with out them charging me an arm an leg just to see where the leak is coming from.
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I have had issues with the sensor for my tires staying lit even after filling the tires with air. I had it turned off at the dealership about 6 months ago and it is now constantly on again.
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My is350 F sport tire pressure sensors. Well I have after market wheels with the stock tire pressure sensors, when they were first installed everything was fine, now about 2 months later now that it is a little cooler. My two back sensors are showing the warning light. it still reads the pressure and shows correct pressure but sensor warning light for both rear tires are on. Why this is? I was thinking the colder weather but why only the rear two and not the front. they go off and on but lately both have been on.
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My car has had a rough idle (no MIL). Scanned for codes and got the following:
P0552 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - Low
P0553 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - High
I'm picking up the part at the dealer this afternoon. I printed out a diagram of the component location, and it looks to be easily accessible.
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I have a '98 Honda Civic with 230K miles on it. Last month, I suddenly saw few drops of coolant on my garage floor. I opened the hood and saw coolant splashed over the engine. I opened the coolant reservoir and it was empty. Surprisingly, the car never overheated and neither did the temp needle go up. I took the car to the mechanic (Honda shop) and they said that the radiator is leaking. I replaced the radiator and after driving for couple of weeks, the same issue re-occurred.
The coolant ran low in the reservoir and there was coolant splash over the engine. I took the car back to the shop and they said that the hose was not properly installed. They fixed it and said there is no sign of leak. I have been driving for a week now and check the coolant routinely. I have noticed that the coolant level has again dropped significantly. But, after the last fix, I do not see any visible sign of leak. There is no evidence of coolant anywhere under the hood. I am not sure if there is something else going on now. Is there something else I should check?
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I just noticed the other day that my cruise control stopped working.
The cruise light will come on, but when I try to set it...nothing. The speed just drops off.
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Last year I was driving and my low oil level warning came on for some odd reason. I say odd because I had just done an oil change a couple months prior. I filled it up to the correct level and everything was fine. A couple months later after doing my oil change the same thing happened again. I get the same warning and now feel there is an issue with my car. I called the dealership and they said they can do an oil consumption test. My car is a 07 GS350 AWD.
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I noticed yesterday while driving the RX (not my daily driver) that when I turned on the A/C to bi-level (chest & feet) it only blew cold air at the chest level while at the feet level it was warm air. If I remember correctly from the past that the feet got cold too so I tried it with the vents only at the feet, still warm air. I even checked to make sure that I didn't have it on bi-level with defroster in use.
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I have a 2006 RX 330 with 116,000 miles. I noticed that i had a leak and the power steering oil level was low. I went under the car and looks like the power steering hose is leaking. The dealer wants $352 for hose and $325 for labor. I called auto parts stores and they say its a dealer item only. Someone told me I could have a hose company rebuild it for a lot less.
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I bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
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I have a 2006 f-350 6.0 and i went to fill up my truck with diesel. After that the truck did not start. Currently has the code p2285 - injector control pressure sensor circuit low. I tried disconnecting sensor, still no start.
I have the torque pro app and another 6.0 that I use for comparison. Check power at ficm 48 volt, flp 11.5v, FVP 11.5v. Hpop while cranking shows 1400 psi. removed oil filter and see low pressure oil ok, fills up reservoir. ipr at crank about 65%. fuel filter full of fuel.
Replaced the dummy plug on passenger side because originally hpop was very low psi 12. after replacement it went up to 1400 on cranking. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? should i be looking at crank sensor or cam sensor? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. The truck has been having long cranks before it died. Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6.0 it is about 4.
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I got the entire bag setup done, air lines ran, struts mounted, everything wired, air pumps tested, then the dreaded E-Level sensors....
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This problem just cost me a new starter and flywheel, cuz after cranking my engine so many times the starter mess up the flywheel teths, anyways, i install a fuel gauge and i find out that my pressure drops in seconds, like i turn the key on (pos ii) and but the time i get out the car to the engine bay to look at the gauge, the pressure is almost ZERO
When I open the door the fuel pump primes and built pressure, when i turn the key i heard the pump primes too, but why does the pressure drops so fast?
I have an aeromotive fpr, and a bosch in line pump, turbo set up and 550 cc injectors( brand new )...
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I have a 2003 4.6l f150 164000 miles. While back oil pressure dropped to 0. Then chattering. Then up then down. I changed the oil and filter, then flushed the motor, then changed the oil and filter again. 1500 miles, no problems, no chatter. Then all of a sudden it happens again. Oil level good and clean. Oil pump?Pick up tube?
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I have an 01 F150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4 Triton. The truck has 222,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed that when I am stopped at a stop light/stop sign while in gear, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero and the light comes on. As soon as I let off the brake and give it gas, it pops back up to normal. While driving, the needle never moves and stays consistent until I stop again, and back down to zero it goes.
If I put the truck in Park, the pressure goes back to normal. Same with neutral. It seems it is hit or miss and does not do this all the time, but I just wanted to see what your thoughts are. After doing some research I am leaning towards an oil pressure sensor/sending unit.... The truck runs perfectly fine, I just want to make sure it is not something more serious.
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L v6 that I recently charged the AC in. The engine was rebuilt not to long ago so the AC was completely recovered (bought it from a friend), so I know I started fresh. I am not by any means a novice mechanic but, just dabbling into the AC world and have watched a ton of how to videos, and what not.
I went out and bought a set of manifold gauges as well as a vacuum pump. I do have the rear air on this one so it takes (correct me if im wrong) 56oz of refrigerant. I pulled a vacuum of 28 (mercury?) and it held it for a good hour so, I am pretty sure no leaks. I went ahead and charged the system... Compressor kicked on like normal, air got cold, and everything seemed to be going just like it should be. I went by just a random r134a ambient pressure chart NOT from ford.
I thought great this is going to be like new! Well, now the problem i'm having is in the mornings at say 65-85 degrees it blows ice cold. Once the sun gets higher in the sky, and it gets up to 95-100, it doesn't seem to be able to keep up, even driving for miles and miles. I noticed the rear air evaporater low side, doesn't seem to feel very cold either. Does this mean I might be over charged/under charged?
I have a video of the pressures at 2000 RPM, AC set to "max", both front and rear fans set to highest setting, windows down. At 31 seconds, the pressure drop is because I let off the throttle and let it idle for a bit, so you can see those pressures.
Copy of 04 explorer ac status - YouTube....
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