Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Pistons Are Not Working / Re-ringing?
Apr 25, 2012
I have an 06 GS300. 73k on it. I finally took it in to the dealership for the fuel pipe recall and I told them that the check engine light and traction light and the exclamation point all came on the day before and that it ran rough for a few seconds then the lights went away and it ran fine. The codes were stored in the computer and they said "they needed to re-ring the pistons".
They are doing this at no charge!! They have had it for 20 days as of today. They said it was a huge job and they are doing it at no charge even though my power train warranty is up because starting Jan 2012 this is a "bulletin item" that they have begun to fix.
Here is my question- Since this is such a huge job and it sounds as though they have taken my entire engine apart, what should I expect when I get it back?? I am afraid that by taking it apart, I will have more problems than when I took it there.
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I her a ringing noise inside my GX. It happens right after the car wash and I cannot figure out what is causing it. It seems loudest in the back.
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I've only had my RX330 for a week. Dealer set up our phone to work in the navigation screen. Everything worked fine until tonight. When we get an incoming call it no longer 'rings' through the car's audio system. How do I get the 'ring' back? The screen indicates an incoming call, but the ring has stopped.
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2013 GX paired with iPhone 5s via bluetooth. This has worked flawlessly for a long time but now it is acting up. When I make a call from the car with speed dials, call history or contacts, I do not hear the "ringing sound" from the car speakers. I just see "calling" and then "talking" when it is answered. I checked volume on both phone and touch screen, made sure my phone was not on mute, disconnected and paired my phone again, all to no avail. The crazy thing is sometimes it works normally, and sometimes just silence.
Once the phone call is answered I can talk normally, etc. just no ringing. Yesterday, I used the redial to call "Time" about 7-8 times and it worked correctly 3 times and the others it did not. The thing Is, this necessitates looking down at the touch screen while driving to see whether it is dialing and when the call is being answered. When someone calls me it rings normally. I am under warranty but my dealer is quite a drive away and since it does this intermittently I am sure when I took it in it would be in a "normal" phase.
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My manual transmission has been making some funky ringing type sounds when cold. Pretty sure it's the trans since pressing the clutch in stops it. It always happens around 2k and is worst when engine breaking. When I just start the car there is a very very faint ringing that goes away as soon as I press the clutch even a tiny bit.
The car has about 45k miles and the clutch itself feels strong and shifting is absolutely fine, I changed the oil to Redline the past summer. Maybe throw out bearing?
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I just changed my alternator because it was making a whining sound off/on, then just went completely dead. I got it back from the shop and that certainly fixed the problem. However, I now notice a very faint high pitch ringing from idle to 2.5k rpms or so, I hear it more so in the cabin. Also, if I hold at 1,500 rpms now the engine vibrates and stumbles right at that holding point, it didn't do that before. Is there a chance that this remanufactured alternator could be the problem?
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A little over a month ago, I was headed to the car wash for a final detail before trading my '06 GS300 in for a newer model LS460 the following day. Some dim bulb with no insurance t-bones me, but t-bone might give the impression that the hit was harder than it was. I swerved as far as I could, but he still managed to hit the passenger side rear quarter to the tune of $4500.
I get the car back today, and as I'm checking things out with the body shop (gas door open, trunk open, ps rear door open, factory gaps, blends, details, etc. After we get the gas and trunk to open, I'm content, and I leave. I'm driving down the highway, and I realize that only the DS window will go down. I toggle the window lockout, nothing. I physically reach behind & roll the DS rear window down, then it starts going up & down with the button, like the front DS window. I try the same thing on the passenger side, no workie.
Is there anything obvious I should check? Honestly, I would rather take it to the dealer than take it back to the bodyshop- they pooched many aspects of the repair.
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So even with the AC light signalling ON on my display, the cool AC feel sometimes works well and sometimes will shut off and just blow air. The heater function works fine. I"m almost certain I need to charge in more freon.
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i have a lexus gs430 model 2008 , one day i started the car and noticed that the speakers not working at all ! not for seat belt alarm , not for the day date , not for radio , cd player , nav , also when i rise the volume up the volume number indicator do not appear on screen . before this situation the speakers were working perfectly fine .
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Have checked fuses in front of battery. Have checked fuses at left in trunk. Side mirror heaters are working and about 4 of the bottom rear window lines. What else.
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I recently replaced the battery for my 2007 Lexus GS 350 and the AC stopped working. The AC button on the panel says "check air conditioner connection. The Audio button also says Audio off, although the ML is working, but It also doesn't show the channel.
I have checked the fuses and they seem to be ok. I purchased this car used under a year ago and everything was working fine until battery change.
The only modification previous owner has made is an iSimple to listen and o iPod from the car stereo. I have seen others on this forum having same symptoms when newly installed iSimple. Removing iSimple fixed their problem.
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About a month ago my key fob stopped working so I ordered a toyota smartkeymaker off ebay (the orange unit) which is supposed to reprogram the car and key to work. A couple weeks ago one day the car wouldn't even start with the fob over the start button but a new car battery fixed that issue.
so today I got the key programmer in the mail. I plugged it in and performed a program sequence but the key still didn't work unless I had it over the start button. So I performed an "all keys lost" initialization but that didn't work either.
few hours later my wife had to go to work so I went out to start the car and put the key up to the button green light came on, pushed the button and the car cranked for 10 seconds then stopped the following message was displayed under the speedo "check VSC". Tried it again same result. told her to take my car. I tried to start it again a few more times and same cranking without starting.
I hooked up my scan tool and it did not detect any codes. unplugged the tool and tried to start it again but now the start button is totally dead. if I press it nothing happens, no radio, no dash lights, nothing regardless if the key is over it or not. the door beep works and overhead lights. Got my volt meter out to make sure the new battery is still good and it is 12.65 volts so no issue there.
disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and reconnected it. start button is still not responding.
at this point I am not sure if the start button is faulty or if the programmer or scan tool damaged the ecu (not likely but who knows). Is there a way to bypass or test the start button to determine if it is bad or not? I will be inspecting the fuses in the morning. is there a way to verify if the ECU has been corrupted somehow aside from going to the stealer.
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I had my 92 Honda Accord get it's timing belt and water pump fixed. Now a month or two later, there is a problem with the engine head, the crankshaft and the pistons got locked up. My mechanic says they are not related to the timing belt. Is he responsible for those recent damages by improper fixtures of the timing belt?
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I changed the rear brake pads on my 2002 Elantra and the caliper pistons would not retract to fit over the pads. After 11 years of weather exposure the pistons were frozen. I removed the calipers, soaked the pistons with WD-40 and penetrating oil and heated the housing with a hair dryer. Doing this periodically for a day I got the pistons to break free. I removed the pistons for inspection and they were severely corroded. I ordered two rebuilding kits on line which included all seals and pistons.
The pistons are threaded and screw into a threaded rod inside the housing. Should I thread the pistons in until they bottom out, or should I turn them out until they touch the inner brake pad?
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My 87 Acura Integra with 170k gave SMOG reading in CA as below:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 87525 542 535
A m/c tells me it is the result of carbon build up on pistons.
Incidentally it gave the following in 2010 - upon retesting without any repair it passed:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 65625 542 678
Note: Recent oil change (Mobil 1 High Mileage), tune up, Thermostat, new PCV valve, NGK Plat spark
It is for "NO" - Nitrous Oxide
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I drive a 2003 24V VR6 GLI
I recently did a valve cover repair to stop the dreaded misfire problem. Well, I'm still waiting on a few things but during the spark plug change obviously some of the oil from where the valve cover leaked previously fell into the pistons because I couldn't really clean it all out efficiently. This seems like it would cause a lot of problems? Do you think I should throw old spark plugs in there and let all the oil burn up before finally replacing them? I really don't want to foul up my brand new NGK's.
Also, I pulled p0300, p0305, p0306, so I am guessing oil in the spark plug/coil pack connection may cause some of the misfires, but do you think two of my coil packs are bad still? My plan was to move them around to see what happens after I get the new parts and am actually running again.
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I have a 2006 Lexus GS 300 and about two weeks ago the key fob stopped working. I replaced two new batteries and nothing. I read up and found that if you place the fob over the start button and wait for the green light it would start. I have been starting the car like that ever since. Now here is the issue. Yesterday I went out to eat and when I was about to leave it would not start with the key over the button. I did not get a green light, nothing. after trying for about 10 minutes I got it to turn on the electrical system (basically it acted like it started but didn't) all the lights turned on and I saw the Check complete on the dash but the engine did not crank or start at all. Finally I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes and connected it again and was able to get it to start and drive home, now back to the same problem.
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For the past few days, every time i turn the car ON (with the headlights ON), the nav screen, clock and surrounding buttons illuminate as they should, but after ~3 seconds, the illumination for the surrounding buttons and clock shut off.
Also, the touch-screen functioning and surrounding buttons do not work at any time. The nav screen remains illuminated, however the touch-screen buttons and surrounding buttons do not work. If i turn the car off and restart, same thing; all lights illuminate for about 3 seconds then stop.
During the day with no lights on, the clock will illuminate for ~3 seconds, then shut off just like above. None of the surrounding buttons (climate, map, infom audio, display, etc) work at all.
What would cause this unusual condition? I feel like if a fuse were blown, it wouldn't work, period. But, the lights illuminate for a few seconds before shutting off.
The emergency flasher button works and illuminates always, and the passenger airbag lights do, likewise. I pulled the nav unit from the car and checked all cables, and they all appear in place.
I can communicate with the car via the voice commands, but that's it.
what might be causing these strange symptoms?
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I have a Lexus 2007 gs350 and my power steering isnt working. I was thinking the power steering rack needs to be replaced or the power steering module may have failed perhaps?. It would sometimes work on a start for a few seconds and thats it.
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The thread started from a guy with a 2007 LS where his door hinges were becoming basically awful to the point where it was very difficult to shut the doors. My response follows...
So it's almost been two years since the last post in regards to this but I thought I would share a similar experience I'm going through with my 2007 GS 350. 2 months ago I broke down and bought a set of hinges for the right rear door because it got to the point that you physically had to walk with the door to close it ($400 parts, labor, paint). I am now having a similar experience with the driver door and it's getting worse every month.
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my nav system in my 06 has started acting all goofy on me. a few weeks ago while heading down to LBI I looked at the screen and it said I was driving in the ocean. I shook my head and went to our house which I've been to hundreds of times so it wasn't like I needed it. the next day it figured out where it was (meaning it actually knew its location and it showed on the screen). I forgot to mention that the nav thought I was somewhere off the coast of Massachusetts around cape cod
fast forward to now.....no hiccups up until today......I went out for a few and everything was fine with the nav but I just went to drop my kids off and it was claiming I was a few miles north-west of my actual location.
is there anyway to reset and recalibrate it? I have seen the recalibrate option but I have messed around with it yet. i personally feel that the nav unit in my ex is useless and rely on my Garmin but still......I'd like it to at least show my actual location. i just used the "search" button but I still haven't really found and answer.
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