Lexus GS 2006-11 :: No Startup / Brand New Starter
Feb 13, 2015
Took 06 GS300 to dealership for no start. They say it might be the starter and replaced it, and it wasn't the starter. Frustrated, I pulled it from the dealership, took it to a mechanic i have a little faith in. He was unsuccessful. He mentioned that he was able to get it to start briefly, but quickly died. I guess he bypassed alot of electrical stuff.
Everything seems fine, until I press the ignition and get nothing. No warnings, nothing. One thing to note, I had a problem keeping the negative battery terminal on. After a great deal of use, it would slightly slip off the battery, so i would have a dead car. I would just tighten and drive on, then it would slip again. I say cause I think maybe something got zapped.
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My RC just hit 22k miles a couple of days ago. This morning when I went to turn on my car, it took a couple of extra cranks for the car to turn on. I am dropping the car off tomorrow at Lexus.
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Just took my brand new GX460 with 1000 miles on a road trip. I found the vehicle drifts heavily to the right, so much so that I have to even hold the steering wheel several degrees to the left to make the car go straight. I drove my other cars on the same road and they are not as bad and generally go straight. Is this possible? Can a new SUV of this price come out of the factory misaligned?
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My 2006 Honda Civic LX has 120,000 miles. About a month ago I stopped for gas, and when I got back into the car, it wouldn't start. It cranked a couple times but then after a couple tries that stopped. The power all came on as normal (lights, radio, everything with no dimming), but the engine wouldn't go all the way. I got a jump and things were fine for a couple of weeks, then it did it to me again, following a brief stop in the grocery store after my highway commute home. Again, jumped the car and went home.
After four days with no sign of trouble, it happened again at the gas station. I then took it to a mechanic who spent 2 days with it and declared my problem a mystery. He couldn't get the car to not start for him and said my battery, alternator, fuses, everything he looked at seemed fine. He thinks it could be the starter but couldn't be completely sure enough to do such expensive work. I also let it sit for two days to see if there was a battery drain, but it started up just fine after sitting for those two days. I did notice that it seems to not want to start the day or two after I use my headlights. Now, 5 days since the last episode, it's starting but the crank is a little slow. My battery is one month old. I'm at a loss and don't want to throw money at the problem without knowing. I'm tired of driving everywhere afraid to turn the car off, too.
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I purchased a brand new 09 LS 460 a few weeks ago - it is an amazingly beautiful car and a joy to look at.
Unfortunately, I think I have the dreaded wind noise problem, as there is very noticeable wind noise above about 65 mph - it gets pretty bad when it is really windy outside.
I love driving the car and have a long daily commute - however, this issue it starting to bother/annoy me and I find it takes away from my enjoyment.
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I hoped in my 2006 GS300 car Monday morning to head to work and pressed the start button while holding the break pedal and the starter didn't engage/turnover the engine. Everything looks normal (Green light on starter button, dash lights come on, etc...) except no starter action. I mean not even a tick or a click.... Nada....
The car battery was replaced in the past 6months or so and the key FOB battery seems good as well since it detects when I approach the vehicle. My wife was also in the car with me and had her key FOB as well. I can also hear the fuel pump priming when I press the start button as expected.
I'm thinking its a starter problem and will start by verifying the voltage at the solenoid when attempting to crank.
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08 Lexus GS350. Drove car Christmas Eve everything was fine, Christmas morning I go to start the car and it attempts to start once and before it cuts on it stops. Then anytime afterwards when I push the start button the starter doesn't engage and the radiator cooling fan comes on. I let the car sit for half a day and try to start it again I get the same cycle (it engages the starter but quits before the car turns over)...
- Battery is new as of September 14 (also took the battery to get checked 100% charged).
- I replaced the alternator in November 14
- I currently have the car at my mechanics but they can't figure it out as of yet. So far they are saying that the can't the cars computer to respond to their machine.
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I've bought new starter cleaned starter contacts battery contacts jumped it bypassed the ignition and relay but taking a wire and touching the positive to the signal wire..used jumper cables as a direct ground to to the starter the torque converter spins so it's not seased...I don't understand what could possibly be stopping this thing...it's just one click like the starter is jumping out but not enough power to turn... 2002 Jetta 1.8t auto
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After 4.5 years of service my car battery seems to have died. On turning the key the starter clicks but it does not start. I jump started it yesterday. It worked fine. It won't start today again so I checked the battery hygrometer. It is green. I checked the water level. It is full.
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My jeep is 6 months old. From day one it has erratic starter problems. Often when starting it, the starter keeps on cranking after I let go of the key! The ignition switch visually returns to the run position, but is electronically stuck in start mode. When this happens I quickly shut off the ignition and try again. Jeep cant duplicate the problem, and says Chrysler has no bulletins about this.
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Have an 07 gs350 awd and lately the pedal feels stiff and doesn't depress all the way down at startup. Sometimes the steering wheel will go back up as if I have just stopped the car and occasionally I will get the message on the dashboard that I need to press the brake pedal at startup even though I am doing that. Dealership claims they can't duplicate problem and don't know what it could be.
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I replaced the starter in my 2001 dodge grand caravan two days ago with a brand new TYC 1-17784 starter motor. It starts fine the only thing is that it has a higher pitched sound when starts. There is no grinding noise and the high pitched sound does not continue once the engine is started. The starter did not come with a shim but I used the shim from the old starter. I am wondering if maybe the sound will go away once it gets 'worn in' or perhaps this is a non issue that I shouldn't be worried about.
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A lot of videos have audio of a knocking sound, however my sound is more akin to an extra crank of the starter. It's intermittent at best, and I thought it was actually use error until I noticed the sound occurred a few times even when I briefly cranked the engine.
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My brother has a '99.5 with about 130k on it. It's extremely slow to startup even the the starter is spinning it over pretty quickly. I pulled my Edge CTS out of my truck to get some #'s off of his. At idle mine has about 700+ ICP, his has about 480. My IPR is about 14%, his is about 10%. The only other obvious things noticeable is that his oil pressure gauge takes 3+ solid seconds before it comes up. Once it's running, it's seems normal and ICP & IPR match mine under full acceleration. The only other thing that is odd, while cranking his volts drop to mid 10's but isn't turning over slow. Where to start?
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I had a battery light come on and saw the alt wasnt charging my battery. So, I replaced the alt with a rebuilt hitachi. Well it was charging at 14.10 and thought all was well til I went out this weekend and was stranded. Tested the alt with my voltmeter and sometimes its 14 and sometimes the battery drops below 12. I charged the battery up overnight and its holding a good charge. I REALLY dont wanna drop this alternator out again so is there anything else I should check? Im getting the battery tested anyway.
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Just purchased a 2014 Yukon XL it is has a bit of hesitation upon acceleration. Did not think much about initially but it is a bit bothersome. I have an 02 Suburban and never had that issue. I did also notice the same issue when test driving a 2014 Suburban.
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My 2009 Kia Spectra won't start when the weather is extremely cold. I live in NH, right on the coast, and the car's parking spot affords it no protection from strong winds that we get here and therefore low temps. There was a cold spell with winds roughly a month ago and the following morning the car wouldn't start. the electronics inside still worked, but it didn't start. When it warmed up later that day it started up normally. the same series of events has been repeating itself over this last bit of cold weather, so I replaced the battery (upgrading from 550 CCA to 650 CCA). II went to start it this morning and once again, it won't start. I've had an oil change with all the fluids checked and replaced or filled just a couple days ago. The car will start in the morning with jumper cables. What might be going on here?
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I have a brand new 2012 BMW 650, production date Nov 2011, and took delivery in December 2011. The low oil light indicator came on at 3300 miles 4 months later. Took it to the dealership and I reported to the service advisor that the car had a clanky (like a fan was hitting it's surrounding metallic covering) noise for 1-2 seconds on cold start and then disappears. I also told them that there was excessive soot noted on the passenger side exhaust tip. I was told by the dealership that this was normal oil consumption.
The dealership put in one quart of oil and told to monitor the oil consumption. At near 6600 miles and 3 months later the low oil light indicator came on again. Took it back to the dealership and the service advisor told me everything was normal and again added another quart of oil. The odometer is now at 8500 miles and the oil level indicator shows half full at 1900 miles later. I keep my cars for a long time and the first oil change is at 15,000 miles. I am sure I don't want to mess with adding a quart of motor oil every 3-4 months. I would not have bought this car if I was told or made aware that this was normal oil consumption.
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Did a complete rear brake job on a 90 Ranger including a pair of Pronto brake drums. Here are some videos of the problem.
Wheel and tire with new brake drum. Bad wobble.
Wheel and tire with brake drum - YouTube
Wheel and tire installed without brake drum. No wobble.
Wheel and tire without brake drum - YouTube
Brake drum only. Bad wobble
Brake drum - YouTube
Bare axle. No wobble.
Bare axle - YouTube
So is it safe to conclude the brake drum is bad? The other side is worse. I cleaned the axle surface so its flat. Wheels and tires are new.
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I paid for brand new injectors and when i took them out today they all had dings and small gouges in the plates,is this normal?they are 180/100 cc
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05 excursion with 04 motor. 290k miles. Had a crank no start issue. Pressure tested hpop only got 450 pressure. So got a brand new on from ford. Also did standpipe, and dummy plugs. After forever and day of cranking truck fired up. Sounded great let it sit for 30 min. Took it out for ride, mile down the road lost all power. Alternator was bad, replaced that and battered just to be safe. Now truck won't fire and have zero pressure. Something that could of been tripped during power surge?
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