Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Left Front Axle Boot Is Torn Wide Open
Sep 14, 2015
I have an 06 gs300 awd. My left front axle boot is torn wide open. I've called multiple parts stores, looked online. And I can't seem to find one anywhere but the dealer. I have found one for gs350. So my question is will that one work in my gs300? What is the part number from the dealer is different between 06 and 07?
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2007 corolla 64K original factory calipers. I bought pads and rotors today to replace my front brakes. When I removed the right caliper I noticed that the boot was danaged ( about 1" long tear ). but does not leak. I put the pads and rotors on anyways.What would be the normal repair for this Leave it, replace thr boot, replace the whole caliper or replace both calipers. This also has ABS. I have never bleed ABS brakes before. What is the best way for a DIYer to bleed this type of brakes.
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I just bought a 2005 GX470 with 107k miles. Very happy with my purchase. The truck is in great condition, very well maintained, super clean, with lots of service records. Previous original owner did not skip any of the recommended items when it came to service, including T-belt, water pump, etc.
However, while inspecting the SUV today, i found one problem. On the driver side, the inner CV boot is torn and it is spraying some gray looking grease around. The passenger side, looks fine.
My question is... how hard is to replace the torn CV boot on these trucks? Do i need any special tools? Should i just replace the boot(s) or do the whole CV axle?
I've replaced CV boots on Nissan Maxima and old Audi in the past and it was a doable but time consuming task. Both times, i wished i replaced the entire axle vs dealing with fixing individual CV boots.
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I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
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So of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose this since "the car's not supposed to be driven that way" - but I get a nasty rumbling noise when I accelerate from a dead stop with wide open throttle. It only lasts for the first few thousand RPMs in first gear, and after that it is gone.
I was guessing that it might be the transfer case or something like that, but it's really hard to tell. I do have AWD. I did not have any such problem in my previous GS, which was a 2007 (current is a 2010). It's worse when I accelerate around a corner, and it also makes a small noise when I'm going above 80ish mph, which of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose either.
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I just bought my first car: a 2007 Toyota Yaris. It has a torn CV boot on the driver's side (don't worry, I was aware of this when I bought it). I've done my homework, and I understand that if I do nothing, at some point I will start to hear a clicking or clunking sound when turning the wheel, that will gradually grow louder over time. Eventually, I'll be driving along, and the CV joint will break for good, resulting in either:
a) the gas pedal won't propel the car, I will slam on the breaks and be stuck on the side of the road, or
b) (in rare cases) the driver's side wheel will fly off, leaving me stuck in the ditch, and possibly dead.
I don't want
a) to happen, but I really don't want
b)! I've also learned that replacing the whole CV axle is probably the best fix for this, and that the a cheap way to do it is to order the part myself and bring it to a mechanic.
So here's my question: Should I absolutely be fixing this before I drive to Michigan? In other words, if I don't fix, and then get 50 miles into driving to Michigan, and start hearing that click-click-click sound, am I screwed? Once the clicking starts, do you think the joint would fail before 1500 miles, or do I have a grace period?
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Was replacing the rear brakes on my Mom's 2010 Prius II and found a tiny tear in the piston dust boot on the driver side. The piston still moves freely. I was hoping the boot could be replaced without removing the piston but from reading the repair manual on the brakes it specifically says the boot must be placed on the piston before the piston is installed.
So now I'm debating on what to do. I can rebuild the caliper for almost nothing but I can't bleed the brakes because of the Prius' system. I would have to take it to the dealer afterwards and not sure about driving it there. Do things could be damaged with air in the system?
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My 2006 GX was purchased with a torn second row, middle shoulder belt. The replacement belt just came in the mail today. I plan to tear into it this weekend, but before I do I was just wondering if any of you have any words of wisdom? It's kind of a weird, isolated problem, but you never know.
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this has just started recently. when ever i am wide open the car sputters a bit when at the top of the rpm range say 4,000 and above. this one has really got me scratching my head... list of upgrades are dual port blow off valve set to atmospheric, 3 inch downpipe back to the stock mufflers with no cats and the neu speed reflash.
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The far end of my passenger side wiper has been leaving about a 2 inch wide arcing streak lately. I figured I needed new inserts, so I replaced them yesterday. The passenger side wiper is still streaking in the exact same place. I know I put the new inserts in correctly, including installing the little metal clip at the end of the insert. What could be the problem? Could I need a new wiper blade? Do those things go bad?
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Looking for info on changing out my left front cv joint axle.My boot is busted on the outter axle but iam going to change out the hold axle then my inner and outter are done the same time.Is there any body that attempted this on there own or a good thread that explains the steps to take on this job.My ride is a 2004 camry auto with the four bagger.
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Every time I start my passat after it sits for more than 4 or 5 hours (overnight, workday) it sounds like the turbo is winding up at full rpm for about 10 secs. and then stops. It only happens on cold starts. I've had it in two shops with no luck what so ever.
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I noticed today all the seams in my bed are wide open, no seam sealer was put in them before it was painted! Are they all like this or was mine not finished properly? Check your beds. I can see daylight and the ground at all the seams!
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I've been using full synthetic 0W-20 oil since it was new(2010 Prius. It is an early build). Last time I had an oil change was about a year and a half ago, oil has 8,000 miles on it. I ran the car hard today at wide open throttle around town. Never driven this way for the past 68,000 miles/5 years. All fluid levels are normal. When I went to check the oil dipstick after running the car at WOT a few times, I noticed a few flakes on the dip stick. Nothing big, just a 1-2 flakes very small flakes every time I reinsert the dip stick. Flakes are about the size of a single dust particle. It's 86 degrees out, which supposedly 0W-20 should protect the engine.
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Today I was leaving my buddys house when I got in my car it started fine then I let off the brake and the epc light came on and the gas is stuck wide open unless I have my foot on the brake unplugged the plug that goes to the gas pedal and it was fine but the epc light was still on plugged it back in and the same thnig so i put my gas pedal on my buddy jetta and it worked fine on his car. Its a 1.8t jetta 03 wolfsburg edition 119000miles
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Experience a strong smell when WOT? Seems like every time I put my foot down hard through a couple of gears it stinks for a few minutes. The car only has 28000km, fresh oil change and running great.
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I recently had my front right boot replaced due to a hole. After being replaced there was a vibration in the front right part of the car (same place as where the boot was replaced.) Now I brought the car back to the shop where the boot was replaced, and they told me this vibration was caused by a bad wheel bearing in that section. After the shop replaced this bad wheel bearing, the problem still existed. Now this vibration happens only when I accelerate to 3300-3500RPM, and occurs at times when I make turns. What this might be or how this is caused?
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All of a sudden the front left lights and both fog lights stopped working. It must be a fuse or a loose connection.
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I am running into issues with my 3GS recently I am hearing loud ticking noise coming from the left side on the front of my car and from what most of people have told me is it might be my Axle or my wheel bearing so was wondering what the part number was for both of them and what is the best place to order these two parts from.
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I have a 2012 Ford Focus which infrequently makes an odd grinding, scratching sound by the front LEFT tire/ axle. It only does it when turning to the RIGHT. It usually does it as I'm coming out of the turn, not into the turn; so when the tire is moving back into the straight position. It's just the sound, you can very slightly feel it when it happens but really no stability or other steering issues. What is causing this sound?
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1998 Honda Civic EX, automatic transmission, 145K miles. Purchased three weeks ago.
Newly purchased used car has a knock emanating from the left front axle area. It's a rotational thumping/knocking sound that occurs about every 360 degrees of the tire rotation and only in forward and backward full-lock left turns. The car also has a small vibration/wobble in the left front. It's been narrowed down to the CV half axle outer bearing. What is puzzling is left front knocking from the outer CV joint is usually associated with full-lock right turns (and vice-versa) However, the left front knocking/thumping only happens as stated above (full-lock left turns).
Recent front end parts replaced:
1) Left front hub assembly and bearing
2) Inner and outer tie rods on both left and right sides
3) Front left caliper
4) New front brake pads on both left and right sides
5) Automatic transmission 3 x 3 drain and fill + Lubegard red
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