I've recently noticed that when I accelerate really hard on my vehicle it will completely stall out at 40mph. Once I let off the gas and begin accelerating again all is good. However the car will not enable me to just step on when without stalling out.
View 10 RepliesMy parents have a 2006 RX330, and I decided to see how their traction control works, so I tried doing a quicker acceleration on a sharp turn to see how it would react.
I found that the vehicle started to slightly tilt and beeped, making it seem like the traction control wasn't activating at all (unless its only function is to beep).
Is this normal?
We've brought our 1999 Camry to our mechanic twice for a starting problem to no avail because it never happens while it's there. So cliche right? About half the time it has trouble starting and the rest of the time it starts and operates fine.
These troublesome starts: * typically idle very low then stall completely if you try to put it in gear * sometimes, but very rarely, stall immediately * sometimes giving it a tiny bit of gas seems to prevent stalling * eventually, after 1-2 minutes, the engine begins running normally (usually i just sit there and wait and can feel the obvious/sudden change from idling low to a normal idle
It just passed the CA smog test and the mechanic couldn't find any problem. What should I do?
Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:
1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.
2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.
3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.
In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.
I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).
My 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6 (115k miles) stalls once every 4 months (happened thrice in the last year) or so when I'm braking & bringing the care to a complete stop.
The check-engine light comes on just before the car completely stops. The steering wheel feels locked. Putting it back in parking, turning off & turning it back on doesn't work. The car doesn't start. After 10-15 minutes, If I put the key in, turn it on & try to turn the steering wheel while turning it on, it turns back up & runs without any issues for the next few months.
I've taken the car to 3 different mechanics (including a Toyota dealership mechanic) & they tell me that the car is in great condition (I've done a lot of preventive maintenance on the car). They can't find any error codes & they checked everything but can't find any issues
I have a 2010 Sonata GLS 4-cylinder approximately 124K miles which has been hesitating on hard accelerations for about 8 months. It will usually do this when getting on an on-ramp for the freeway or if I need to do a U-turn and get up to speed quickly. What happens is I punch the gas and the vehicle acts as if it's not getting any gas and hesitates or stalls and then it finally takes off. Usually I see a cloud of grey/white smoke behind the car enough that I am unable to see any cars in my rear view mirror.
I do not seem to see a difference when the vehicle is warm/cold. I do not have a CEL nor have had one. I have replaced the MAP sensor, PCV valve and spark plugs (properly gapped). I have done a compression test and am getting roughly 180-185 psi per cylinder. I am not experiencing any oil loss/coolant loss, do not see any oil in the coolant or gummed-up or oily spark plugs. I have also replaced the transmission fluid, doing a drain and flushing the torque converter. I have also cleaned the throttle body, and am using a new air filter and the oil has been changed within the past 1000 miles.
Still getting used to my 2010 2.4 Sonata>Seems hard to get gradual acceleration when I depress gas pedal,instead I get Jack rabbi t take offs ,I wonder if linkage needs to be adjusted.
View 12 RepliesThis morning i realized that my rear shade did not completely extend. Is this an easy fix or do i have to go to the dealer?
View 8 RepliesMy driver's side bulb at times will just go completely off. Is it the bulb or the ballast shooting craps?
View 7 RepliesI own a stock GS300 2007 RWD doing about 80K miles here in Thailand. I am facing one critical issue with my ride. While driving normally if I hit the brake hard the car seems to loose power then there is a hard knock from the rear which knocks the car forward. I think it is caused from the downshift of the gear, but I am not quite sure. It happens often in the same kind of situation.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006, RX 330 with approximately 130,000 miles. I was driving up a hill today and my engine seemed to stall. I pumped the throttle a couple of times and it seamed to take care of the problem. I am thinking it is a dirty fuel filter. Would a pressure test on the fuel line give me the answer ? And yes I did check and there is plenty of fuel in the tank.
View 5 Replies2003 Camry V6 145,000 km. original starter, alternator, battery new replaced 2 months ago.
Scenario #1 - vehicle does not crank. electricity is flowing (instrument panel lights on, can even alarm lock). started after hitting both the starter and battery terminal.
Scenario #2 - vehicle cranks from parking stall. Reverse backing out 3 feet, car dies, instrument panel lights are on.
My 2004 Jetta with 58.5K miles (bought new) stalled in traffic 3 weeks ago. A few seconds later I turned the key and it started OK- no stalling since. For the last 3+ years I have taken it in for shaking as if the vehicle will stall and sometimes it's close to that, especially when I come to a stop at the traffic light. This week the rubber thing I think called under tray came down. Also, the clock is off with an hour. This car usually goes to the VW dealer for service.
View 4 RepliesSo with the warmer weather, I've finally had a chance to drive my car spiritedly (2015 IS350). However, I noticed that under full throttle for about 5-10 seconds, I get a sulfur smell after I let off the gas. I thought maybe it was the gas (I've only put in Shell V-Power 91 in this car) so I drove the car until it had less than an eighth tank, then put in Petro Canada Ultra 94. So far, I've driven about 80 km on the new tank but I still smell a sulfur smell after hard acceleration.
I never noticed this smell last summer, so I assume it's related to something that's changed. So far my car is still 100% stock so the only culprit I can think of is gas. It is possible that I never noticed it before though because you can't smell it when the windows are closed with AC on, which is usually what I do in the summer.
It could be the "winter blend" gas that gas stations have right now?
I can get the fan to work in lo-med-hi if I set the rear-cool fan selector to those positions, however, selecting auto results in the fan turning off completely. Do I have to have the front in "auto" for the rear "auto" function to work?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 LS460L. Bought it new and have loved it dearly for 6 years now. It now has 70k miles and is under an extended warranty purchased at 50k miles. As a first year model it has had a ton of TSBs done on it.
The problem i have had as long as i can remember is a lag or stutter during medium to hard acceleration. It feels a little like the old turbo lag or like a very mild stutter. It has had the transmission adjusted, had the service manager driver it for a week to try and capture on computer etc. But nothing has fixed it. At times it feels like if you watch the tachometer during these moments you can actually see a bounce (I may be imagining).
I have almost given up and just lived with it. We have tried tranny, type of oil, software tweaks etc.
I have a 2006 town and country with a 3.3 and 220,000 miles.
Last week I was having some hard starts and loss of power on acceleration. My check engine light flashed during one episode so I had autozone check the code and it showed a misfire. I changed out my plugs and wires and that solved my issue. It started and ran like new.
Yesterday, I was running errands and my charging light came on. I was about ten miles from home and I decided to go for it. It was night so the headlights were on. Along the way, everything started to dim. Headlights, dash lights, airbag indicator came on and then the van just died. I walked the final mile and we towed it home.
The alternator and battery were both replaced last year in November making them both one year old. AC Delco battery 660 cca and I had a very reputable alternator shop rebuild the alternator.
So before I towed the van home, I hooked up some heavy duty jumper cables from a running chevy venture and let it charge 15 minutes. After the 15 minutes it was just clicks in rapid succession.
I hooked it up to a trickle charger overnight, 12v 2 amp setting. This morning, the van started, idled fine for about five seconds and then started trying to cut out. I kept it running by giving it gas but after about twenty seconds it stalled. I tried to restart and nothing but the rapid clicks. Three more hours on the trickle charger and the same exact thing happened. It started, began to stall, quit and then wouldn't restart.
I noticed today that the power steering reservoir was leaking a decent amount of fluid down onto everything around it including the coil pack. I replaced this today and used brake cleaner to clean all the surrounding components.
After doing some internet sleuthing, I found a thread with the same problem. For this guy, he had a disconnected ground from the negative battery terminal. I chased mine down (G101) disconnected and wire brushed it all clean. Put it all back together and still the same problem.
Here is what I have discovered:
Trying to jump it from another vehicle only results in the clicks. This is true whether the jumper cables on the dead battery are on both terminals or the negative is grounded on the motor. If the battery were the problem, I should be able to jump through it. If the alternator were the problem, I should be able to start with a jump.
After charging the battery, it will start once but then die soon after. Battery with the key off will read just under 12 volts (11.9, 11.6). With the key on, it will drop to the 8's (8.6, etc.) I have not yet had the battery or alternator bench tested. I plan to start with the battery in the morning.
It seems to me that the alternator wasn't charging the battery or it wouldn't have just killed the battery as those accessories should be powered by the alternator. It shouldn't be a starter issue since it will start after being on the trickle charger.
I have read that the IS (or at least some versions of it) pump engine noise into the cabin during hard acceleration. Is this on all models or just F-Sport?
View 8 RepliesI have an 06 F150 2wd with the 5.4. Today on my way home I had to cross traffic while getting on the highway and had to get on it a bit. When I gave it the gas the truck down shifted then just fell on it's face until I let off the gas a little then it sped up like normal. It normally runs great but I don't get on it much. I just don't see why It runs great until I try to get a move on.
View 3 RepliesI have an 06' f350 6Ltr. Over 300 k. Good shape, i have owned it for about a year. My first diesel. Last week it wouldnt start, had a 1/4 tank. Read about problems with other trucks with a broken pick up on fuel pump. So i filled the tank and it started. Next morning used command start and it ran for 1 minute then shutdown. took about 5 minutes of manually turning it over and it fires up ran all day. Does this almost everyday since and now shuts down while driving after hard acceleration and surges under acceleration when on incline or underload. Changed fuel relay, fuel filters. Researched and asked around but getting mixed opinions. I am mechanically inclined but this is a little beyond my scope of trouble shooting and id rather not start throwing parts at it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 sc430 and have been having problems with the drivers memory seat although the passenger one works fine.
I have disconnected my batter for 5 minutes, moved the passenger seat all the way forward, heard the beep. Moved the reclining part all the way forward until I heard the beep, and the memory seat for the passenger works great.
I moved the drivers seat all the way forward, heard the beep. Moved the reclining part all the way forward until I heard the beep, but the memory seat won't beep (when you hold set and a number). I even replaced my drivers mirror (didn't tilt down due to bad motor), but that didn't work. Of course, I did redo disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it resetting both drivers seat and passenger seat.