I bought a set of stop tech rotors drilled and slotted. After having them on for about 5k miles I'm getting vibrations when I'm slowing down so I'm guessing they are warped already. Any better crossed drilled rotor for a decent price that won't end up like the stop tech rotors.
View 9 RepliesI bought a gs 350 AWD about 3 weeks ago and I love it. But one thing I have been noticing is often but not every time from 0-20. I feel vibrations and almost like a skipping/jumping of the tires/car, its very soft. Is this normal?. I still have a dealer warranty of 30 days left. But its kind of far so I wanted to see what it was before I drove 2 hours to have them check it out. what this could be?
View 14 RepliesNotice roughness/jumpiness in the transmission when slowing to a stop, or crawling along (like in a shopping center)? it's quite evident on my car, and perhaps i just have a problem that nobody else feels.
It's as if the tranny is downshifting when slowing to a stop, and I can really feel it...makes it difficult to come to a smooth stop. and then if I'm moving very very slowly in heavy traffic, it seems to be "wandering" between 1st & 2nd...something like that...and it's very jumpy. Not smooth at all.
I realize that Lexus may come up with some reprogramming for trannies (that happened on my '01 GS, and it made a big difference).
There are some NX 200t owners experiencing some uncharacteristic engine vibrations at idle or low rpms around 700-800 rpms as per this thread here, even for a 4 cylinder. How about IS 200t owners?
View 14 RepliesNot long ago I fitted after-market rims to my 2006 Passat 2.0 FSI HighLine, I changed from 215/55/16 to 235/45/17 with Falken ZE912 tires, all new. The center hub of the Passat is 57.1(as far as my knowledge goes) and the wheel hub seem to be 66.6, the shop who installed my rims inserted a 57.1 to 67.1 poly-carbon hub rings which needed some force to fit into the wheel, the vibrations did not stop. All 4 wheel&tires were balances 2 times on one machine then a third time on a different machine just to be sure, still the same. I didn't preform a front alignment yet as i didn't believe it's needed, although right now ill try anything...
Anyway i then measured the rim hub diameter which seems to be 66.6. I bought a set of 57.1 to 66.6 poly-carbon rings, they also needed a bit of force to fit in the wheel, still there is no improvement and the car vibrate under acceleration. I would like to add at this point that i had no vibrations what so ever with the old rims and tires even though the tires were quite worn. I am thinking maybe i need the 57.1 to 66.1 size? Or perhaps i should use aluminum rings instead of plastic?
Is a size difference of 0.5 can make that much of a difference? I know an aluminum ring wont fit unless its the perfect size, and plastic are a bit more elastic meaning like in my case, they can fit in a smaller rim with a bit of force. Should I aim for a ring that fit perfectly without the need of applying force? Can it be that a 66.6 ring, fitted in a 66.1 rim is not eliminating the vibrations just because its off by a 0.5 mm and needed a bit of force getting inside?? I though that as long as the ring fits inside the wheel it will work but obviously its not..
07/ES350. Feel vibrations when the lever is on D or R? It started to vibrate a little bit on D, when the engine is hot. No lights. I noticed that when I shift in D there's no rpm rise.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 azera limited 63k miles on it and I'm getting a rough idle that sounds worse when the weather is cold. also when I press the gas there is hesitation from the car to accelerate. on top of that, I feel vibrations from the engine all through the driver and passenger seat. When I turn the car on it idles at 1300-1500 rpm and takes about 5-7 minutes to come down. when it does , it idles at 650 rpm. I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes. I've replaced spark plugs, air filter, had the air induction service done at the dealership, and had to have Hyundai put on a new throttle body last march when it gave out on me while at work. the dealership doesn't know what it is and said to use a fuel additive when I fill up the tank. I have and am waiting to see if that does anything. I put in a bottle of CRC 1 Tank fuel system cleaner 2 days ago. I've even changed my brand of gas from exxon to bp just in case. I think it may be a bad hose for the idle and a bad motor mount for the vibration. Could an O2 sensor be going bad?
View 1 RepliesI have been experiencing a vibration in my car at highway speeds (50mph+). Vibration is only present when the engine is under load, IE, i am accelerating, maintaining highway speed, or climbing a hill. Vibration is not present if I put the car in neutral and rev the engine. Vibration initially seemed to come from the rear, but it now is present over the entire car, steering wheel, pedals, seats, dash, etc... The vibration is getting progressively worst and appears at lower speeds than when first noticed at 70k. Taken to the dealer then, did a wheel balance and alignment didn't fix the problem, unable to diagnose and said bring it back when it's worst (about 200$).
Now at 92k and running out of my 100k warranty. Taken back to the dealership, they told me to change catalytic converter (not under warranty) (75$diagnosis fee) and O2 censor (for 1000$), so I had a reputable mechanic in town do that (420$), problem still there. I took it back to the dealership, they said my cyl2 has a misfire, and to change plugs... so i had them do that (120$, 10%off, waived the diagnosis fee), of course... problem still there. They then suggested it was my snow tires, I replied it has been through 4 sets of tires (two snows, two summers, and all the alignments, balances, rotations associated with that)... problem still there... (and if it was tiring, it would vibrate at speed all the time, not just when you are giving the engine gas)...
I am bringing the car back to them this week, they are going to put a set of their tires on the car and see if it may be a wheel bearing... again, this does not seem right to me... if it's a bearing, wouldn't that be a condition present all the time, and even (or progressively worst) through speeds...
they told me they have checked the struts (my first guess) and they look OK, as well as the engine mounts (my second guess) look OK.
I have a 2006 Grand Cherokee and since I bought the car used the rear right brake has squealed despite having the breaks replaced and serviced twice. I have had the car for less than a year. Recently I have noticed a bit of a shake/thud while I'm driving at speeds lower than 45mph. It almost feels like I have a flat tire, despite all of my tires being properly inflated. I do not have to be pressing the brake to feel the shake, however I do feel the vibrations in the brake pedal. What could be the problem and could it be dangerous?
View 3 RepliesI own an LS 460 and since I had the latest recall done (ELS potential fuel pressure sensor leak) my car has been idling higher than normal and i am having a constant vibration on the steering wheel in drive mode while in a stand still.
View 5 RepliesWhen I slow down to stop my 2008 Sonata it jerks. It is an intermittent issue. The car has 95,000 miles and when I called the dealer I was told they would start with changing the transmission fluid and go from there. I read on some other posts of this same type of issue being fixed by installing the latest software for the transmission, but this was related to 2009 & 2010 Sonatas. Is it possible that installing some new software would work on my 2008?
View 1 Replies2008 LS600hl with 30K miles, when de-accelerate/brake I hear like jet engine slowing down sound, I think coming from the CVT/Electric motor area.
View 14 RepliesI currently have a 2006 B6 w/ approx. 95k miles on it. A couple months ago I had my catalytic converter replaced at the dealership and then about a month ago my car started having issues with stalling.
Symptoms:
-Car drives normal - no loss of power or anything, but then will randomly stall when coming to a stop or slowing down, taking my foot off of the accelerator. After it stalls the red alternator light comes on. Check engine light comes on and off - lately on most of the time.
-The issue has gotten progressively worse recently, but for the past month it has been inconsistent. Sometimes I can go an entire drive and not experience it and then other times it will stall nonstop. Lately, there have also been a few times where it's taken a few tries to start it, though this is recent as before it restarted perfectly fine.
-Recently, the car has started exhibiting symptoms at highway speeds as well, occasionally brief episodes where it will begin to jerk and shake. Usually stops as pressure is applied to the gas pedal.
-Also, have issues with the parking brake... the switch seems to have randomly broken in the center (no clue how) and I keep getting a parking brake fault. Not sure if this is related or an entirely separate issue.
I took the car to a very reputable independent VW/Audi shop and after several days they still have been unable to locate the issue. Based on the codes the MIL was sending the first visit, they replaced the low fuel pressure sensor and the cam position sender. Neither fixed the problem. So, now I have to decide where to go from here... They took off the labor and only charged me for the parts.
I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS that I purchased just over two years go. I have a couple of issues with it at the moment.
My first problem is I clipped my drivers side side-view mirror and a little plastic piece inside the side-view mirrror housing where the bolts go thru broke off. I checked with Hyundai and it seems like you can't purchase that plastic piece from them(they make you purchase the whole side view mirror). I also checked around at local junkyards but none of them had a 2010. What I can do here?
My second problem is when I'm slowing down to a stop and my speed gets around 10 mph or so the car jumps/jerks. It feels like it's almost skipping a gear or something and it's very noticeable. I was wondering if any of y'all have had that problem before and if so what did you do?
I am getting a ticking sound when i am slowing down (applying my brakes) at say 35/30mph. The sound stops when I stop. This problem starts after my car warms up; doesn't do it when I first start up.
I've taken the car to 2 Hyundai dealerships and a certified mechanic and the problem continues. I first noticed this about a month ago.
So far no one seems to be able to find the problem. The mechanic did try by replacing the front brake pads. He said something about a "shims piece " and thought if we replace the front pads that would take care of the problem. The rear brakes or ok.
I'm still having the problem and I wonder if it's the rear brakes after all. I don't know what I can try now. Someone suggested going to Brake Check. I have about 1000 miles left on the original warranty.
Today my transmission suddenly disengaged while slowing down from 3rd to 2nd as if i switched to neutral.Car revved freely when i pressed accelerator. Then suddenly after a second it engaged again and shifted normally. Never had this issue before i racked up 1,29,000 KM on my ride.
I can't see it as "slipping" as there was no change in speed and it revved freely. Also I 'm due for fluid change. What can be the issue?
I know how to activate the DAC, read the manual, it says shift to L, put in D, and press the DAC button. Keep it under 15 MPH and when you let go of the brake and gas it will maintain the speed, by engine breaking and breaking.
Here is the problem, followed the directions and the DAC light keeps flashing and the truck speed keeps on climbing no slowing down.
What should I look for? 2004 GX.
my much adored 2006 prius just got three warning lights as i was driving and slowing down at a light. The big red triangle- "Master Warning", the Brake System Warning, and also, the Hybrid System Warning. It was like warning lights galore... i'll bring it into the dealership first thing tomorrow, but any clue what's going on? I regularly maintain it. The only other thing that ever went wrong with my car is that the touchscreen quit working years ago, and i refused to spend the 3k for them to connect a silly wire. Why my lights went on and is this something serious?
View 7 RepliesI drive 07'es350 and I have felt jerks while driving usually when accelerating or slowing down from speed. Did check with dealer before for transmission after analysis by technician he said it is perfect, recently read on internet and saw fuel filter can be an issue but when called the dealer he said filter is in gas tank and it is lifelong. Not sure what kind of diagnosis I should do to find the issue.
View 13 RepliesHere's the deal:
1. My 2002 SC430 with 23,000 miles on it is making a low rubbing noise when slowing down, with a slight vibration, not severe enough, but it is annoying and frankly surprising on this car. The dealer tells me it's because the brakes have "glaze" on them, and short of a new brake job, you can jam on the brakes to clear or loosen some of this and reduce the noise. ( I live in the desert so I'm sure I could find a deserted stretch or road for this craziness...) The dealer reports the brakes have 70 - 80 percent life on them and I don't need a brake job.
2. Power steering. I thought this particular car was just hard to steer, but even the tech at the dealer commented it's like I have no power steering. I test drove two other cars, and the steering is markedly lighter on the other two SC430's I drove. (2002 and 2005) Dealer can't seem to find an explanation, but I have to drive this car with two hands around town... I know this is not the way this car was intended to feel.
I don't believe the car changed that much from the 2002 model so as to affect the steering. BTW, I'm using stock tires, not run flat, 4 months old. And the steering is stiff at idle anyway, regardless of tires. The first SC I drove, which sealed the decision to buy one, was so quiet I didn't know the engine was running, easy to steer, and smooth.
Team 4th Gen. Just a heads up. When I first bought my 600, the radar cruise was throwing an error due to a faulty brake light switch near the brake pedal. It was repaired but it appears the adjustment on that switch may not have been done.
I noticed cars rushing up on me as I was slowing down and turning many times, even causing a car to swerve hard to avoid hitting me.
I realized my brake pedal needed to be about 3/4 pressed to engage the brake lights. I also noticed I had to really mash the brake to disengage the cruise control. I then noticed when someone drove my car and came to a light. No brake lights even though they were def slowing down and not coasting.
So i had my oil changed today and had them investigate while it was there. There is an adjustment to that switch component and now the lights come on with hardly any pressure on the pedal and cruise disengages with very slight pressure on pedal as it should.