Lexus GS 2006-11 :: GS430 Won't Start Once New ECU Is Installed
Sep 6, 2015
My father has a 2006 GS430 that just started to have an issue when he slows down, it feels as if the car is braking itself. I've read that people have changed their ECU to fix this issue and that it works. I bought a new ECU(same part number) and installed it but the car tries to start but doesn't. I swapped back the old ECU and the car starts. I swap back the new ECU and it doesn't. I'm wondering if the ECU has to be recorded at the dealership.
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Guys, i have a 2006 GS430 with around 119k miles...Last night when i started the car and turned on the Fan, Strong Gas smell started to seep in through the Vents, At first i didn't really think much off the smell...Drove home (about 2 miles) and then Opened the hood while car still running.
There is this black round piece that sits on the Fuel pressure line (Or atleast that's what it seems) it's completely soaked in GAS (Petrol), i need to know what this part is called.
Is it Fuel Pressure regulator? if it's fuel pressure regulator is it easy to replace?
Here is the picture that was just taken (Upon starting the car)....
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For starters I hardly drive my gs430 and ill put it this way. Its almost been a year and i still haven't put 5k miles on the vehicle. back to the matter at hand. I am starting to see an oil leak in my driveway from this vehicle. I am unsure exactly where its coming from. It could be from the valve cover or the cam seal (assuming that is what it is called). The leak is above the alternator that is why I think its the valve cover and or the cam seal (if that's what it is)...
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I have a 2006 GS 430.
Absolutely love the car, however I do have a new issue with my headlights. Pretty much every time I drive at night, the headlights will both come on and then one will go off at some point. They almost always both come on, and then usually the left will go out while driving.
It doesn't happen necessarily immediately. Sometimes 2-3 minutes later, sometimes 20 min, sometimes they work fine. I took it to a local shop and they said the whole assembly needs to be replaced on each side. (Parts alone $1200/each side) and apparently the bumper needs to come off. Seems a little ridiculous to me.
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I have a 2006 GS430 with electronic suspension. The AFS keep blinking and the rear keeps bouncing? What might be the cause. Do I need need rear shocks??
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I can't seem to get the headlights to adjust vertically on my 2006 GS430... I was able to do the horizontal and high beam adjustments done fine. It's just that when I try to adjust the vertical it does nothing... there's that gauge with the two bubble containers that you look at. When i look through the small window at it and screw the adjustment, all it does is move that little tube with the bubble either forward or backward. The bubble doesn't move. It seems to be stuck on the end where the front of the car is. The whole thing just moves!!! when i screw it clockwise, it will move the tube to the left and when i screw it counterclockwise it will move it to the right. I can move it all the way to the left or all the way to the right but the bubble just will not move.
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About 3 weeks ago i have noticed that the right headlight doesn't work. I assumed its the bulb and bought a set from kbcarstuff. Installed them today and it still doesn't work. I tried to swap the bulbs and non of them worked in the right headlight and all of them worked fine in the left one. I assumed it is a fuse and went to check it out(number 80 and 81 fuses, 15A are all sweet). Is it the ballast or something also?
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Tons of information on this and its possible. What? I'm still learning the search feature.
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How to fix the low speed brake squeal on my GS. I have an o6 with about 80K on it. Have had it for four years and never winter driven. I am debating trading it off on an AWD GS or putting it into full time service as my year round driver.
I haven't driven a rear wheel drive car in the winter for 20 years. Everything else I have is AWD of 4x4. Here in Alberta we get some serious snow and ice. I have Nokian WR2 tires on it year round because you can get snow in the mountains even in July. I tried mine on the driveway after a good snow fall and even on Winter ESB and with good tires, it does not seem to have great traction.
Have any of you used your GS430s in regular winter driving, heavy snow and ice. How to get it to perform its best in deep snow or very slippery roads?
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I have a 2007 GS 430, 126,000 miles. Initially I had one faulty headlight that would not work but after turning the switch off/on, it would work again. Eventually both headlights started malfunctioning. After reading other forums, we elected to change the headlight bulbs. So far that has worked. However, after changing the bulbs, the VSC (Vehicle Stability Control) and check engine lights came on. After running the headlights and using the car to go to/from work with about 4 stops and restarts, the car reset itself and the warning lights turned off. Scared me at first because I had also just had suspension work done. However, the Headlamp Level Control System is part of the VSC system, which makes sense, just wasn't prepared for the warning lights.
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I have a 2006 Lexus GS430 w/ 100k miles. I've been trying to solve my coolant issue for the longest and I've been doing research like crazy!!! The issue that I'm having is that coolant from the radiator is blowing back into the reservoir causing the reservoir to be overfilled and splattering all over the engine bay. Also, when this happens the fluid in the radiator drops significantly ( I have to keep dumping the lost coolant from the reservoir back into the radiator). Under normal driving the fluid wont blow over to the reservoir that much (just a little) but, when I drive long distances or if I floor it that is when the coolant from the radiator really pushes over into the reservoir. When the car cools, I find out that the coolant from the reservoir does not draw back into the radiator. (I'm guessing due to the air in the cooling system?)
Checklist on what has been done to the car:
- NEW Water Pump (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Timing Belt (Installed by Lexus)
- NEW Thermostat (Installed by Lexus) (I also tested the thermostat in boiling water and it opened and closed)
- NEW Radiator (Installed by Lexus also was pressure tested and passed)
- NEW Radiator Cap (Genuine Toyota 1.1 bar)
- Coolant Flush (flushed radiator and engine block with water hose)
-Bled System with my Lisle Spill Free Funnel and Heater on MAX HOT Full blast! Heater is working good!
(Did this 3 times for 30 min+ to get rid off all the air bubbles)
- Performed a Block Test to see if any combustion gasses were in the cooling system, to determine if it was a blown/failing head gasket (passed)
I dont know what else to do at this point other then do a compression test and a leak down test. There is no coolant in the oil and no coolant leaks. Car drives solid and strong! Is there a bleeder valve on the GS430 somewhere or does it have a bleeder valve? Is it something I'm doing wrong?
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When I got home from work last night i discovered i had this strange noise coming from my gs430. not sure what is it but there was some smoke coming from my passenger side of the motor but I couldn't see what it was exactly due to the night hour. please view the short video clip to see what it could be.
What is this noise? - YouTube
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2006 GS430 110K miles. Did Front brake pad change by myself. Now ABS , brake warning lamps come on.
Bring it to Lexus dealer. They found 3 code on it. C1203, C1336, C1345
After performed the Zero Point Calibration, the DTC C1345 remains.
I felt so bad. They want to charged me another $185 in order to find out the problem after I have paid $130. But i am out of pocket. So drive car back to home. I don't think i did anything wrong while changing brake pad. Just remove the caliper and push the piston back.
Detail of the Code:
C1203 engine control system communication fault
C1336 zero point calibration Yaw rate sensor undone
C1345 Linear valve offset not learned.
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i just got my edelbrock performer rpm intake and my holley 4 barrel installed but it won't run...the only way i can get it to hit and run at all is to floor it like it's flooded...then it'll run for a second but will never rev up and get going like it should...so i watched some vids on youtube for setting mixture on holley's wich i was pretty sure about anyway...turned the idle mixture screws in to snug and then out 1 and a half turns. is this a symptom of a bad vacuum leak or is it something to do with the carb maybe not enough fuel?
it's a holley 4160...list-6619...which is 600 cfm...it's on a 302 with 3 speed.
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I wouldn't do it myself, but I was wondering if it was even possible to have a remote start installed.
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My car battery was bad and took it to get it exchanged for a new one. Car was without the battery for probably around 6 hours. Came home and installed the new battery and car fired right up but I noticed that it idles at around 400-450 rpm. This is with the ac on or off. AC does not increase the RPM any. But I also noticed that at this RPM, the AC doesnt blow any cold air. As soon as I barely press the throttle and it gets to where it used to idle prior (600-700) the AC blows cold again. The car has never idled this low prior. I took the battery out for around 2 minutes and still the same thing. Ive also read about leaving it disconnected for 30-60 min and see if it works.
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My mechanic installed a new Hybrid battery in my 2005 Pruis using the repair manual and a video that showed him how to do it. He also replaced the harness and the ECU battery. When he tries to start the car all of the lights light up on the dash but no ready light on the start button and the car will not start. The instructions did not say anything about this issue so he is lost! He thinks the smart key and the ECU have to be synced in some way but doesn't know how to do it. (none of the books covered this.
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My car had a new bumper installed, and now they can't get it to start. When you hit the button to start, the red "immobilizer" anti-theft light blinks for a moment like the key is not in the car.
This is true even if the key is inserted into the dash. The remote key still can open and close/lock the doors just fine, so this is strange.
They did mention that they had to recharge the battery for some reason. I don't know why the battery had died for them, but it is charged now. (Headlights, etc work fine).
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Over last two years have replaced a few alternators and (3?) batteries in my 2000 Solara SLE with 150,000 miles. However, In last three months I have had three additional alternators. Car wouldn't start, had it towed, and a mechanic put in new alternator and battery. Happens again, car won't start (now own a jump charger!), and the same mechanic puts in new alternator. Happens again and Mechanic #1 says he has checked it and its fine. I then go to my regular mechanic... Says its the alternator which is bad (when you put the AC and Radio on, it appears to charge for a while, but if you leave it running it will stop charging and then after a while it will go to overcharging and undercharging. I noticed when driving on highway my lights will brighten and dim).
He sends me back to the first mechanic because the alternator is bad. They put in a new alternator. I take it back to Mechanic #2 my regular mechanic to test it so I don't get stuck. He says its still doing the same thing. I tell him I will pay to have him put in the new alternator and he can own the warranty.... He sends me to a car electrical specialist. After having my car for 3 days the car electrical specialist just called and said in 30 years he has never given up but he has now. May or may not be related: My check engine light was coming on and I had mechanic put in new oxygen sensors. I also have intermittant traction light and ABS light coming on and the check engine light will sometimes come on too. My dash board feels like Christmas...
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I have a 2007 bottle fed EX 350. I am installing XM into it. SAT/AM button scrolls thru SAT 1 2 3. Display sometimes shows 184 or 255. Occasionally is says Radio Err, It has displayed "radio id" with nothing else, And I managed to get it to display a cryptic looking F W1 4 30 .
NO XM ID
Siriusxm cannot work with my vin.
Cannot tune to ch0 as there is no XM preview going on.
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Installed the coilovers , took it for a drive , the rear end is just way to stiff. It seems like there was no rebound at all. We have the setting to softest. When installing the coilovers, the whole spring and shock assy was about 3 inches shorter than the OEM parts. We have to jack up the lower control arm to get it to mount. Is something adjusted wrong?
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