So im driving home and i realize one of my headlights are out. I get home and turn them and turn them back on and the headlight turns very dim for a couple of seconds, and then shuts off. What this could be? Ballast or Bulb. I have major modifications done to the wheels wells to fit the wheels, so i don't want to take it to the dealer.
View 3 RepliesI'm occasionally having a scary issue with my '13 RC450h. There are a couple of parking lots where the transition from the parking lot to the road is not particularly smooth and the speed of the other cars on the road require that you get up to 50mph pretty quickly.
When I hit the gas then hit the bumps in the transition, the TRAC light turns on and power to the wheels is lost for a couple of seconds (exactly the opposite of what I want to happen). Is this happening to other people or is this something that needs to be looked at? Is this just a result of traction control and I need to remember to turn it off when leaving a parking lot and entering a busy road?
I have a completely stock 06 GS 300 AWD. Just noticed this morning in traffic that my lights keep wondering up/down while I'm stopped ?? Arrived at work and watched the lights shinning against the office wall, still going up/down... I'm assuming hunting for level ?
Not sure if this is happening while driving.. needs to be a fair dark night & smooth road to see if it is doing this. Because both lights are doing this simultaneously I'm thinking its the control module ?
If I am sitting in the cabin after turning my 06 GS300 off, after about a minute I can hear noise for about 5 seconds in the cabin.
View 1 RepliesSo warming up around here and and my fiance brings to my attention that the AC is not working in her GS. I fumbled around a bit and found that the fuse in engine compartment is good, ac light does illuminate in climate display, freon is at approx 80psi on low side, and the air does in fact never get the least bit cool. It seems as though the compressor never turns on, now I know that these cars wont kick on if they sense low pressure in the system but it is full.... also swapped ac relay out to no avail
View 1 RepliesWhile driving 1 of 3 issues occur... radio will click off for 2 seconds, entire dash turns off for 2 seconds (car continues to run), or all electric clicks off and car shuts off. If left to sit for a few minutes car will restart. Will occur a bunch of times in one trip and then not for a week. Does not seem to depend on type of driving or weather conditions. Honda cant seem to figure out and until the yesterday they blew me off. Yesterday, the anti-theft actually locked out the radio, so at least they could see "something" occurred.
View 5 RepliesI have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
View 2 RepliesI am having this weird issue that started from what I believe this weekend. I was doing 70mph and it was snowing. Not always but something like maybe 1 out of 5 times when I activated the washer fluid motor my headlights would turn off for like 1-2 seconds. Super scary when you are driving in the pitch dark on a highway.
View 8 RepliesI own a 2000 Ford F-250 5.4 Automatic. It tows my 5th wheel trailer very good. On our last trip it suddenly experienced the "check engine light" effect.
The light turns on randomly and either goes of after a couple of seconds or it doesn't go on when I restart the engine.It is mainly annoying, but when in towing it really hurts, because the engine switches into an emergency mode and stalls.
I read that the engine uses only 4 cylinders. I read many articles on the web about that light, but I couldn't find a solution. The thing is I brought the car to several repair shops but none read a code from the computer.
I think it's not a real fault but a misreading or maybe a cable that's grounding? The problem is, I can't bring the car to a repair shop, because there is nothing wrong with the car. How can I find the source of the problem?
I've got a 2006 GS 300 and in automatic mode, when it turns on my low beam head lights, the driver's side does not turn on automatically. I have to manually turn off the lights then turn them back on and everything works fine. I have aftermarket ~5000K bulbs installed, Garax, I think (I assume they're real ones, I bought them from either XenonDepot or Nigel... can't remember). The bulbs are about 3.5 to 4 years old. Ballasts are the originals.
On a side note, I wasn't really impressed by the Garax. Might switch to Ultinons. Then again the stock 4300k sucked as well. I'd like to get some halfway decent lighting on this car without having to retrofit lenses.
The bulbs are not from XenonDepot or Nigel, they are from theretrofitsource.com (D4S: Morimoto XenGreen (XenGrnD4S) Kelvin 5000K). I don't think they are a quality product, IMO.
I have a 2007 GS350 AWD with about 110,000 miles right now. For almost the last year or so it has been burning off some oil. By the time its up for an oil change, it occasionally gives me the engine oil low light. It stays on between a few seconds to a minute and then turns off.
I've been telling this to the local Lexus dealership where i've had all my maintenance done, and they eventually did an oil consumption test. They said it was losing about 1.5 liters after 3,000 miles. They say that is within spec.
This issue came up several times while i was still in my 100,000 mile warranty, but they wouldn't do anything as it was in spec. I don't see how i should get a low engine light warning every 3-4k miles and have been pushing them to do something and cover under warranty since it has been documented as an issue before the warranty ran out. Lexus corporate asked for a compression test (which i had to pay for), the results are below:
Cyc#1: 205 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#2: 200 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#3: 190 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#4: 200 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#5: 205 dry; 210 wet
Cyc#6: 190 dry; 220 wet
After Lexus received the results they asked for, they still said: well the oil consumption is in spec so won't do anything.
I have a 2006 Expedition with 90k miles. I am the original owner. don't drive the vehicle much just mostly when the family goes somewhere or when I'm putting the Jet skis in the lake.
About a year ago the air con went out and since I don't drive it that much I decided to fix it later, well now is later. How to diagnose the AC system. what I am looking for is a methodical step by step procedure for trying to find out what is causing my AC to not work.
the symptoms are, the compressor turns on runs for a few seconds and then turns off. inside the cab I can hear hear a hiss noise during the few seconds that the compressor comes on and fades away slowly when the compressor shuts off.
I bought a can of 134a with the gauge, I adjusted the gauge for the correct ambient temperature hooked up to the low side and was surprised to see that the Freon was only a little low. I topped it off but still no change in the compressor running.
I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight (I know I know you get what you pay for) in any case I hooked up the gauges to see what the pressures are when the compressor turns on but only seeing a little change.
Any way I took my Speedy (expedition) to the local auto air conditioner shop the mechanic hooked his gauge set up to the vehicle, watched it for a few minutes, made some phone calls, came back. He did tell me that he was going to have to replace the compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valves both front and back and flush the rest of the parts that did not get replaced. I suppose this is a good price if all that work really needs to be done???
However I would like to exhaust all of my options before I dump half the vehicles blue book value into the air conditioning. so I've been searching the internet and found that it is possible the problem may reside in a control valve that may be present in the type of scroll compressor that is in the expedition.
My 06 was parked about 2 months and when I first started the truck, the CEL light came on. It idles a couple of minutes and shuts off. It was running very well before it was parked. I put a code reader and the codes are P0607 and P2107.
View 1 RepliesI'm a long time Lexus owner but new to 3GS, I've searched around but couldn't find an answer. Is it possible to sync my phone book to the car?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 LEXUS GS300 AWD. I loved how it looked stock but I wanted more. I replaced the stock shocks with Brian Crowler coilovers and got some 20" Niche Verona staggered wheels. I dropped it about 2 inches. The problem is that when I take off I have a vibration that comes from the car up until i reach about 20 miles per hour. However, when I put on the stock wheels there is no vibration. I got it put on the rack and all the arms are fine. I even checked the tires and the rims for any problems and they are fine.
View 2 RepliesI bought in my 2006 GS300 to Lexus dealer 2 weeks ago for the engine misfire issue and were told to call corporate 'cuz it's over the 9 yr period for 1 month. Called and told me to bring it back for inspection on the issue. Dealer performed the test and found the misfire, but got a call from dealer that they won't cover it because I missed it by 1 month. I had explained to the rep that we moved around quite a bit and found out about this not too long ago.
View 11 RepliesMy '06 GS300 has a bulb in the driving lights (inner set, closest to the grill) that is out. It is the small light that turns-on when you turn the proper night-time lights on. SO, my driving lights operate normally, but when I switch the lights on, and the smaller bulbs turn on, one is out.
I was able to locate a post that suggested a 194/t10 LED light for replacement. How to confirm this is the proper bulb for the job? Also see these listed as #2825 in halogen.
I bought my 06 GS300 AWD with 104k a year and half ago and have noticed the transmission sticks while shifting. This is prevalent during winter or cold driving.
These are the cold symptoms w/o Snow Mode active:
-sticking between shifts (gears 2-4).
-on highway coasting speeds, take your foot of the accelerator and the Tac. needle bounces.
-downshifting to lower gears the car pushes forward further than expected.
-coming down a decline with your foot on Brake, the gear upshifts instead of downshifts (has happened after driving for more than 20 minutes).
- high Tac. reading during warm-up drive, have to depress brake pedal further, to prevent collision.(this one I expected since all Toyota vehicles that I've owned has done this).
I have talk to my local Lexus dealer and a tech mentioned this transmission has been known to do this while it's cold.
So, my question is, should I consider changing the trans. fluid to see if the problem goes away?
Owning a Lexus . I recently bought an '06 model GS300 and have just had an issue appear with it.
Issue is that, whether in drive or reverse, the car accelerates on its own - not very quickly, but quickly enough that it'll crash me into my garage door if I'm not careful.
What this could be? Variously, I've read that it could be a Throttle Positioning Sensor, or Idle Air Control valve. Some things I've read suggest it could be air conditioning related (though I don't understand that one...).
I have 06 gs300 AWD, dashboard makes a lot of noise now, beside than that its a very good car. Noise is so bad, it seems like, about to break apart?
Dashboard noise: [URL] ....
I bought a lexus gs300 and changed the transmission. the car would turn on, run for about 10 mins then shut off. I gave changed the fuel pump, the router and service the car it still does the same thing. what could the problem be?
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