Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Fuse Keep Going Out
Jul 30, 2015
I got few item hook up to my car
1. Blackvue dashcam with magic box, (1 front, 1 rear + parking power adapter)
2. V1 Radar Detector
3. 4.2amp dual USB charger.
With all those device combine it shouldn't draw too much power no. I am no electrician but my 15AMP fuse keep going out and its a hassle to replace them every now and then.
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I went to open my trunk the other day by pressing the button on the trunk, and nothing, key in my pocket with a fresh battery (replaced in June). I then pulled out my key and pressed the trunk release on the fob and again nothing. I then went to the trunk release in the dash, and again nothing. I ended up pulling the key blade out and using that.... so inconvenient. ..
I did also check the fuse for the trunk release and it's still good...
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2007 GS350 48K miles
I don't hear the motor lock the trunk either. I can open it with a broom handle through the back seat ok or with the actual metal key, but pressing the button on the remote or next to the steering wheel does nothing. I checked the fuse, and the glove box switch.
Anything else I can try? It's no worry since its still under warranty, but if it's something simple it would save me the trip.
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Every time I replace the ac fuse it blows again sometimes immediately or later it never last more than a day.
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I have a 2007 3.3 litre Sonata and just recently heard a buzzing sound coming from what I think is the fuse box area. When in park and neutral (buzz) .... drive and reverse - no buzz.
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My 2006 Azera Limited keeps blowing its backup fuse (10amp) whenever I so much as move an inch in reverse. Moving from P to D (or even past the manual gate) is OK, as long as I don't take my foot off the brake when passing R.
I've so far burned through 4 fuses and still don't know what the problem is.
Here's some history:
The first time this happened yesterday AM, I just replaced the blown b/up fuse with the spare 10amp and the car ran fine the whole day, including several feet of reversing.
The second time this happened was today AM. I ran out of extra fuses, and decided to use the ABS (10amp) fuse instead, to be able to go pick up extra fuses at the local autoparts store. On the drive, I kept seeing check engine and ABS failure messages on the IP, as expected.
After I replaced the 2nd blown fuse, the check engine light came on. I didn't have my code reader with me (it's a funky bluetooth obd reader + android tablet, and i don't always carry the tablet). Had the local gas station look at the codes, and was told of "speed sensor" and a "high-speed controller link" error codes.
Reversed out of the parking spot at the gas station, and the fuse blew again. Twice.
Nothing on the car (other than as described above) has changed in the past several months. I haven't had the car washed for over 6months, but did drive in the rain several weeks ago. There haven't been any other changes at all (I opened the hood up just yesterday after several weeks of not needing to). The car is stock, there haven't been any major modifications (except, I removed an aftermarket nav system and put the stock 6cd radio back, but that was several months ago).
I'm pretty sure there's some sort of electrical fault somewhere, but can't quite figure out what / where.
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Just this morning, my 2006 Azera Limited would not cycle on the A/C. I found that the 10 amp fuse for the A/C solenoid had blown. I replaced the fuse. The A/C worked perfectly, blew ice cold air, for about 15 minutes. Then the fuse blew again. Replaced the fuse again, the compressor clutch kicked and started to turn compressor and fuse blew yet again. Replaced fuse a third time, blew immediately. And now tonight, the dash lighting will not go into "night mode" - will not dim the instrument cluster fully, and the night illumination on controls will not light. Also, randomly, the fog light indicator will not light - even though the fog lights are on and illuminated. Not sure all these things are related, but it seems like some sort of major failure is occurring somewhere. I looked for shorted or burnt wiring under the hood, couldn't find any. Other than taking the car to Hyundai and paying two arms and a leg? I have seen posts for other Hyundai models where the compressor wiring shorts against the compressor - but so snug down there I haven't been able to check it properly yet. Also, another post suggested the clutch coil may be bad? But if it was, would it kick in and run properly for 15 minutes? I'm mechanically inclined, have done a lot of work myself on cars for over 20 years, but this one stumps me...
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Yesterday My wife's 2010 Elantra needed a jump start, I had Accidentally connected the Jumper cables up incorrectly. I corrected the issue and the vehicle runs fine now. however the AUDIO fuse in the interior, which controls the radio and any alert Dings keeps blowing. Its a 15A fuse. I replaced it yesterday with a brand new fuse and it worked when tested the first time. this morning however it is now not working again and the fuse is again blown. do I just replace it with another fuse? is there something else I can check? will a 20A fuse work better?
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I tried installing my new DDMTuning 35W 6000K HID headlights with relay harness. No issues until I went to turn the car on and actually power them up. Neither side would work. I checked my power connection, ground, in-line fuse, swapped out the relay, tried without the harness, and nothing worked. I tried putting the stock bulbs back in and I found out they wouldn't turn on either.
I found the issue to be a blown 20 amp fuse in slot 23 (see pic). I replaced it and tried to turn the car on with the HIDs and it blew again. I hooked the stock lights back up and they seem to work fine now with another new fuse. The fuse description says H/LP LO and HID LO LH. Why this fuse is blowing. I am wondering if I just need a higher amperage fuse because of the HID power (in line for harness is 30 amp) or if something else is the culprit. I'm stumped.
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I got in my 2009 Sonata this morning, started it and turned on the headlights. The headlights turned on momentarily and then turned off. The 20 amp headlight fuse blew. I cleaned the battery ground on the fender and the battery terminals. I also cleaned the connection between the battery terminal connector and the negative cable. I put everything back together and installed a new 20 amp fuse. I turned the lights on. They lit momentarily and then, predictably, blew the fuse again. Curiously enough, the "passing lights",which are just the high beams on another position on the headlight switch, still work.
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I have a 2006 Avalon and I accidentally touch two wires on one of the DRL lights and it blew out I changed the bulb and still nothing, which fuse operates them? I check the owners manual and did see any fuse that runs the DRL.
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My camry used to crank a couple of seconds longer and then take. Yesterday it died just after starting and wont start. It cranks. Checked and found fuse 15 in eng comp blown. Changed it and blew again. Check fuel pump, it seems to work when momentarily apply power to it. The engine management light does not come on when swithing ignition on any more as well. The airbag light also does not come on since this as well. Was wondering if ecu is gone bad?
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My left side blinkers keeps Blowing the fuse, I replaced ir 3 times already. First I thought it was the light bulb but my whole left side (driver side) blinkers were out except the one on the side mirror. Is there a relay for the blinkers somewhere that might be bad or something else?
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Background: Sonata 2009 Limited. 165K Miles. Original factory installed everything. Chicago area.
Last week I drove to the mall in the snow. Headlights worked fine. Upon leaving the mall I realized that my low beam headlights were not working.
Purchased and installed one low beam headlight bulb, on the slim chance that both of them simply burned out at the same time. It didn't come on.
Results of an internet search indicated that the fuse might be blown. I pulled the 20amp Low Beam headlight fuse and sure enough it was bad. Put in a new fuse. Turned on the headlights and it blew instantly.
Have been driving with the high-beams the past 5 days. Only one car has "blinked" at me, so driving with the high-beams isn't a problem. Probably because there are so many cars with really bright low-beam headlights these days.
However, I would like some guidance to getting this problem resolved. What are the most likely reasons for the low-beam headlight fuse blowing instantly like this?
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The compass on my car suddenly disappeared, and I need to check if the fuse has blown out. Unfortunately the fuse box diagram in the owners manual does not match up at all with the actual fuse box (had a similar problem previously with the 12volt outlet inside the car).
Which is the correct fuse location? 2006 2.0T .....
Tried calling my local dealer, and they gave me the standard answer: Bring it in and we will take a look at it... I find it ridiculous that they cannot just let me know the fuse location, given that they know that the owners manual is incorrect !!!
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I have a 2006 F350 Diesel. Had one of my employees go out to start the truck yesterday and when I went out I had no electrical power to most of the accessories (gauges, warning lights, power windows, radio, interior lights, turbo charger). It also seems to have no power - could barely make it go up the slight incline into my garage. I have checked all the fuses - they seem fine. Although put a tester on the interior fuse box and I don't have any power to the fuses that run these accessories.
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The fuse wont blow instantly when I install a new one, it happens after about 5-6 days.
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How to disable the Daytime Running Lights? I checked the manual and the fuses labeled are specifically for the front right and front left headlights. Is there a way to disable aside from pulling a fuse?
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I own a 2005 GX 470 recently I got in to drive the car and the navigation screen would work for climate control and audio functions but the map would not display. A bunch of warning lights were also on ABS, VSC etc. Upon investigation I found the ECU-B fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and everything appeared to be fine. About 3 days later and the same thing happened again. I again replaced the fuse and it lasted a couple of days and blew again. I have not been able to isolate it to any one thing that seems to trip it. How to best determine the cause of the issue?
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04 RX 330. About a week ago, the car died on my wife. The instrument panel was working but nothing else, no radio, windows, steering column, etc. We replaced the battery and had the same problem with the new battery.
Working through all the fuses & relays, I discover the main fuse, 140amp fuse link, had gone bad. The fuse is bolted on the sides with an 8mm and a 10mm bolt. After taking the fuse box apart, to be able to get to the bolts and remove the fuse, I replaced the fuse, which happens to be a factory only fuse, couldn't find it at any local auto parts stores or amazon, the car started. I have windows, steering column, radio, chair, etc. The only thing not working now is the navigation screen, which also controls the AC/Heat, and the back up camera.
I've gone through the manual and have checked every fuse that has any reference to nav screen.
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I was having intermittent fuel pressure problems. I replaced fuel pump and relay and was still having the problem. A figured out that wiggling the 20 amp fuse would cause the intermittent. Looking at the connections for the fuse, I can see one side was damaged. I figured I could pull the connector out from the back and fix the connector, but when I took the back off (see picture) I have a purple wire (labeled 1) going to one side of the fuse and a multi-connector (labeled 2) from one wire going to the other side. My luck, it's the multi-connector side that is damaged.
It Looks like the multi-connector goes to the Black and yellow wire. Instead of replacing the box, I figured I could just create an inline fuse for the fuel pump with the purple wire and splice it into the Black/yellow wire.
I can't see any problem with this, just looking for a second opinion. And I'm not sure how it would effect the relay. I can't find a fuse panel wiring diagram anywhere.
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