Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Engine Not Increasing RPM When In Parking Or Neutral
Jan 18, 2015
I just wondering is that normal that my 2006 gS450H not increasing engine RPM when in P or N accelerator pedal is like dead when driving all OK....
I have tech stream software 2 errors are about solar sensor circuit that's it (did full health check). In live data it show accelerator position if I press more down it show accelerator position change but no increase in RPM??? I tested other GS450H and then RPMs increased somehow in P position. Also 2 days ago did MOT then also RPMs increased they tested emissions.
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Any way to increase the max volume on a 2009? My main issue is with the AUX in channel, it doesn't have the same power that the radio and CD player have.
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I've tried a couple of different bulbs to match my HID's as close as possible , but can't seem to find anything.
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Today i wanted to slow down a bit after hitting 75mph on a 65mph freeway so i stepped off the gas pedal. However the speed did not decrease but kept going up slowly to 80 till i stepped on the brake in order to slow down. After hitting the brake , it seemed to work as usual ( speed decreases when foot is pff the pedal). Had to do it multiple times today? Am i missing something? Only happened on the freeway, once i got off it seemed fine.
2014is 250 f.
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Wife's 2008 ES350 with 80k miles died in a parking lot. Wouldn't re-start with warning lights for Trac Off, Check Engine and VSC. Called tow truck from our local repair shop. Tow truck driver tied and started the car with no lights. Wife went ahead and had it towed.
Repair shop called and said that car started for tech but died w/o any warning lights. Shop started checking it out and found that it has no compression on all cylinders. In talking with service manager, we discounted the timing chain since the car will re-start, at least a few times. His gut feeling, something with the internal timing gears and such.
Repair shop has found a used engine locally and has it on hold while we decide what to do. The shop doesn't rebuild motor and just diving into it for exploratory surgery could be expensive with no assurance of positive results.
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All of the sudden today my parking sensor started going crazy! going off for no reason I turned it off and later turned it back on it seemed fine.
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I have been experiencing a vibration in my car at highway speeds (50mph+). Vibration is only present when the engine is under load, IE, i am accelerating, maintaining highway speed, or climbing a hill. Vibration is not present if I put the car in neutral and rev the engine. Vibration initially seemed to come from the rear, but it now is present over the entire car, steering wheel, pedals, seats, dash, etc... The vibration is getting progressively worst and appears at lower speeds than when first noticed at 70k. Taken to the dealer then, did a wheel balance and alignment didn't fix the problem, unable to diagnose and said bring it back when it's worst (about 200$).
Now at 92k and running out of my 100k warranty. Taken back to the dealership, they told me to change catalytic converter (not under warranty) (75$diagnosis fee) and O2 censor (for 1000$), so I had a reputable mechanic in town do that (420$), problem still there. I took it back to the dealership, they said my cyl2 has a misfire, and to change plugs... so i had them do that (120$, 10%off, waived the diagnosis fee), of course... problem still there. They then suggested it was my snow tires, I replied it has been through 4 sets of tires (two snows, two summers, and all the alignments, balances, rotations associated with that)... problem still there... (and if it was tiring, it would vibrate at speed all the time, not just when you are giving the engine gas)...
I am bringing the car back to them this week, they are going to put a set of their tires on the car and see if it may be a wheel bearing... again, this does not seem right to me... if it's a bearing, wouldn't that be a condition present all the time, and even (or progressively worst) through speeds...
they told me they have checked the struts (my first guess) and they look OK, as well as the engine mounts (my second guess) look OK.
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Just got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
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I have this noise that is cumming from under the car about dead center Engine area its only heard while driving and more as the car has been driven for some time. From speeds 20mph and above only when increasing speed or when full throttle. It wont do it in park or revving it i jack up the car front end and put in drive only front right tire turns but still no noise(is there away for the left tire to turn). Everthing works normal the noise is low and at times only.
2.4L Sonata 68000+miles.
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What could cause this? I have 100k and I only notice this if in park or neutral at 1500rpms. It goes away before and after and it seems to drive very smoothly. I had a bad alternator and I just replaced it but the "new" one is making a high pitching ringing so I'm having the shop change that out for a new oem. Any chance it's the alternator or could this be something else. I have sea foamed the throttle body recently and cleaned the maf recently and changed the air filter. I didn't do plugs but they are do at 120k
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2007 GX470 - Just noticed a distinct whining/humming sound similar to tire hum you would have with aggressive off-road tread tires. Seems to come alive around 20mph (or at least that's when I can hear it) and gets louder with the increase in speed. As I slow the sound goes away. Only does it while moving and not in neutral with engine rev.
We bought the car at 59k and it just hit 70k . Only oil changes, tire rotation have been done since we bought it. The tires were new when purchased so they have about 10k on them. No noise when we first got the car so I tend to think it's not related to the tread.
I was planning to do the front/read diff and transfer case drain/fill. Wondering if that may be the cause.
Something else - at low speed in tight turn (i.e. backing out of garage, pulling into parking spots) I do feel some roughness - almost like the differential is locked. Not sure if that is an indication. Was thinking it may be a wheel bearing but there is no clunking when turning.
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My 2006 Tundra with 45000 miles on it has an engine vibration in neutral between 1400 and 1750 RPMs. It does not feel or sound like a miss fire rather a definite vibration. I have heard this is common with Toyota 4.7 litre engines. What might be some things that could cause it? It has always done it and after 8 years hasn't resulted in any engine failures.....yet.
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After almost 9 years, 130K miles on my 2000 GLX wagon 5-sp., for the last 6 months I'm noticing an increasing oily "smell" when at idle after the engine is warm. Other posts suggest it might be a leak in rear cam seals or valve cover gasket dripping small amounts of oil down on the exhaust system. There's been no visible oil leak when the car is parked and it does NOT "use" oil between every 5K changes. Is replacing the valve cover gaskets a job within the reach of a moderately experienced DIYer?
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After taking my car to 2008 Lexus GS 350 AWD for an oil change and recall fix, I noticed my iJDMToy LED Parking Lights and Xentec HID for Fog Lamps have stopped working and just blink a very low light the entire time. The parking light starts working fine when the main head lights are off, but as soon as I turn them on, they start to blink again. The fog lamps just constantly blink at a low light level while on. Here is an example:
Light issues - YouTube
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Is there a way to increase the volume of the buzz sound when locking the door with the remote? It has been bothering me for a while. Every time I lock the door with a remote as I am walking away from the car, I need to listen very carefully for the almost inaudible buzz sound so I am sure the door is locked. I searched in the settings but didn't find where it can be changed.
BTW, it is a 2014 RX350.
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I have a rear wheel bearing type of noise that appears to come from the rear. My vehicle is front wheel drive and has 135K miles.
I checked the rear wheel bearing/hub assys on both sides and they had no play but I changed them anyway. Noise did not change at all. Rear tires have normal wear, no cupping or anything. Noise gets louder with increasing speed up to a point and then remains a constant level.
My next thought is to check the front wheel bearings/cv joints.
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I am having an engine temp issue when climbing steep hills. The gauge goes from normal to the red line but not into the red. The VDC OFF light is on but the CEL is not one. Once I reach the top of the hill the engine begins to cool off and returns to normal. Yesterday I had the radiator flushed and the thermostat changed. Am I looking at a water pump or head gaskets?
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2006 Chevy Silverado 3500 (crew cab dually) with Duramax diesel and Allison transmission. Every time transmission is shifted into Park while the engine is running, the engine will shut off. The engine is able to restart, but this has never happened before.
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Well Prii have always been a little "loud" under acceleration due to the CVT and small engine and minimal sound proofing, BUT We have 2 Priuses (Prii??), a 2011 with 41000 miles and a 2014 with 7k miles. My daughter got the 2011 to take to college. 1200 mile round trip so it made sense.
She maintains that for sometime, the 2011 is making more of the droning/roaring sound that a Prius makes when accelerating briskly. I did not really believe, her, but over holiday break, I had the opportunity to drive both cars more, and she is right.
The 2011 is clearly louder under acceleration. It also will develop a bit of a vibration at certain RPMs, even at very low RPM sometimes, when the economy bar is just beyond the electric mode.
The noise differential between 2011 and 2014 is most apparent at cold temperatures, but it does not resolve completely even with both engines fully warmed up.
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Over the past few months my '13 350 occasionally seems to hesitate when starting from a light, in a parking spot, in general no/low speed maneuvers. It doesn't do it every time, and it's not a hesitation with engine bucking, backfire, or noise. It just feels like the power takes a few seconds to come on when I hit the pedal. Sometimes. It has been interesting a few times on highway on-ramps...
At first I thought it was my accelerator technique, using the wrong foot angle, but I've been careful to apply the pedal correctly. Since it doesn't feel like the classic engine miss I was wondering if there are any other things to consider, such as transmission (hopefully a software update or something else simple) or anything else.
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I just received a phone call from my wife stating her prius automatically goes to neutral.
She mentioned there were not any odd noises. Just that once in drive it automatically goes to neutral.
The car is now parked in a lot until I go and take a look.
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