Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Check Engine Light Blinking - Cylinder 3 Misfire
Jan 17, 2016
Just bought 2007 Gs 350 in Dec 2015 with 60k miles. The other day I filled up with gas and drove to work. On the way home check engine light started blinking, check VSC appeared on display screen and traction light came on, car ran rough, and wouldn't accelerate. Got home and searched the net.. So I removed gas cap... No change.. Then removed neg battery cable for 10 min. Fixed problem for about 10 min. Then it all happened again. Next morning took it to Lexus dealer. The rep called and said it gave misfire cylinder 3. They said they checked valve springs and they are good, exchanged coil pack with different cylinder and still misfire #3. He said has to be injector so they want to replace injector ....
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Bought a 07 GS450h w/ 82k on it last week thursday. car was serviced at 1 dealer it's entire life and battery was changed before I took delivery. After 100 miles of driving check engine light came on and i read 10 codes.
The codes are:
P0300 multi cylinder misfire (6 times)
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire (2 times)
P0303 cylinder 3 misfire (2 times)
Am I just looking at a simple spark plug change or is there something in particular I should look for? Is it worth the effort of bringing it to the dealer to repair?
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Check engine code (P0302). I have a 2007 GS 350 with 116k miles that was driving perfect until this week. My check engine light was initially blinking but is now on solid along with the check VSC light. My question is: of the 6 cylinders (3 on the left and 3 on the right when facing the engine) which one is cylinder 2?
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I'm having problems with my accent, is been running not so good , and had a check engine light, indicating a misfire cylinder 3 and 4, i was told to put a can of Seafoam on the gas tank, but that didn't work. I replace the spark plugs (not the wire) and air filter and still running bad. Is not happening all the time (check engine light) but you can tell is running ruff at all time. I don't know if I need to change the spark plugs wires. I don't think is the spark plugs wire, they don't look bad or damage.
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I have a 1996 chevy caprice wit a 4.3 v-8 one day i was driving and the car started acting funny and the check engine lite started blinking i had the codes read and 0p300 came up saying multiple misfire so I changed the plug wires they all connect in the front around the harmonic balancer well that didn't work its still saying multi misfire so I took a spark plug wire off of the electric dis block and no change in motor now I don't know what to do...
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I have a 96 Grand Voyager that had had sat for a year undriven or started due to being out of state. It ran like a champ when I parked it. Now I charged the battery and went for a drive on the freeway and my check engine light came on and started blinking. I had the code read it came back with 2 codes a P0306 and a P0300. I noticed that the cylinder 6 spark plug wire was arcing on the core support. So I replaced all the plug wires and spark plugs with Champion platinum spark plugs. I cleared the codes and took it on a test drive and the P0300 code came back. Is there anyway the old gas is causing the random misfire? or what else could it be?
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On my way to work, my check engine light started blinking and car was sputtering (real bad on idle). I ran the code and it came back with misfires codes. I changed the coils/plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump last year. Can the coils be bad already? When I clear the codes the car will run fine for a little while. But after a couple miles CEL will blink and the car will run roughly again.
Car : 2004 Golf 2.0
Codes:
16684: random multiple misfires
16648: fuel injector #2 short to ground
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I'll try to break this down as best I can. I went to my mechanic this am with a check engine light. My suspicion is 02 sensors. This was confirmed as a problem area, but separate they said I had a spuratic misfire in cylinder 4. With that info, i pulled the plug to inspect (I had just installed new ngks in it and they have 18,000K on em.
I put beldon wires on about 8k ago.) plug looked to be normal, but there was definitely a puddle of oil from the valve cover leaking. Oil went into the cylinder head but I didn't really think that was an issue. Nothing abnormal jumped out at me so I reinstalled plug and checked all wire connections at both ends and called it a day.
Then I drove it. Check engine light flashing. Major performance stutters, etc. I drove it for about 20 miles and hoped it was just the oil raising hell in there and it would burn off eventually. It hasn't gone away yet. Maybe coil pack. Can the single portions of that pack be replaced, all i see them sell is the full three as a unit.
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2000 Chevy S10 pickup
Had the check engine light come on, and when I checked on the code it gave a 4th cylinder misfire. Autozone instructed me to simply replace my spark plug with a new oem plug.
I replaced the spark plug as instructed. After about an hour of driving, the check engine light goes off and I think, great! Problem solved. However, another hour of driving and the check engine light is back on again, without going away.
I headed back to autozone to get a readout, just to find that it's the same code. So I put another spark plug in. Same result - check engine light goes off after an hour, only to come back on again permanently after another hour.
Now, normally I would think, this must be the spark plug line that needs replacement,however I am sure there must be some clue in the fact that the check engine light turned off for an hour.
By the way, not sure if relevant, but I also found a lot of build up around the spark plug before I initially changed it.In fact, there was so much that I had to scrape around the plug with an awl, and blow out the crud with a compressor,just to get my socket into place without there being crud in the way.
Any clue what that check engine off/on clue might be?
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Got the flashing check engine light and loss of power for few seconds and then the light stayed still, from time to time it blinks for few secs, usually when I push the gas pedal little bit more but it stays still, flashed only twice in 2 days for seconds. I connected computer (not VAG) and it says "Cylinder 4 misfire". I have app scheduled with my mechanic this Thursday, but still need to commute to work. Is it safe to drive?
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About a week ago I was driving my Pontiac 2003 Grand Am V6 and it began to violently shake and the "check engine light" came on and started blinking. I then immediately took it to the mechanic It has been with the mechanic for 6 days and they were unable to locate the problem. They called me today and I was told that I have no compression in one of the cylinders (I have done business with them before and felt comfortable in that I wasn't being taken advantage of). Also, is there any problems in the future with getting a cylinder replaced i.e. other parts of the engine that might correlate?
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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I have a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE with 155K miles. I did a tune-up eight months ago. With the tune up I had to replace the fuel pump because it was defective. Later, I found that there were misfires occurring since I was getting slow acceleration. I had the spark plugs on the guilty cylinders replaced again and the spark plug wires.
Periodically, I have had to return to the shop to have the vehicle checked. I sometimes get a blinking check engine light while trying to accelerate, which now occurs only while it is raining or I am exiting the car wash. The shop is at a loss as to what it is (spark plugs and wires are fine, no lose connections noticed). I am wondering if I should take it to someone else. Of course, taking it somewhere else will cost me $100 to check on someone's else work.
The shop replaced the ignition coil. Distributor cap is fine. They keep saying that the engine is running fine while in the shop and do not get any codes. I had them drive it while it was raining and they discovered that cylinder 4 is misfiring. They worked on the cylinder. The vehicle runs well, until it rains or I wash it.
My questions to the group, "If everything is OK, how come it is misfiring? What are they missing? What is the connection to the moisture?"
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I plugged in a OBD2 reader and its show misfire on Cylinder 1.
I haven't driven the car for 4 days, and when i started the engine this morning, the engine show knocking when the regular engine kicks in (rough). i will be bringing the car in tomorrow (dealer). my car is a 2011 with 16k miles, strange for this to happen so early in age.
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As the title says I have plugged a code reader in and it says "cyclinder three misfire". So I pulled the plugs and good god they were nasty. Some having a gap of 80-90 thousandths of an inch. So I figured the plugs were the source of the problem, thus I replaced them but to my dimise the check engine light is still on, and still reading the same ol' "cyclinder three misfire". I have put 350 miles on it in 24 hours of changing it to allow for proper time of the circuit cycling for the light to change but not sure if it takes longer...?
I also went ahead and checked the plug wires resistance when I had the plugs pulled and they ranged from 1.5-2.5k ohms shortest to longest (cylinder 4-1). And if your curious the magic cylinder three was around 2k ohms for however long that wire is, my guess would be 18 inches. Would this be out of tolerance, I know the norm is 10k ohm for every 12 inches or so...?
My next guess would be replacing the power pack or I guess you car guys call it the "ignition coil"...? I will say that the car does run much smoother after replacing the plugs.
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Honda Odyssey 2005 – 176000 miles. Cylinder 4th Misfire – check engine lightHonda has about 176000 miles. When cold – before warming up – it acts like nothing is wrong – as it gets warmer – to the middle of the temperature gauge – it misfires.And runs rough. Evaluation: Honda Dealership thinks it is a cracked Valve or needs adjustment – they have replaced a spark plug and swapped coils. Not for sure.They think if that is not the case then there could be additional problems.Question: Why does it act normal when cold ? How can we confirm if it is the valve and not cracked head?
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So when I bought the car, it had a check engine light. I had it checked it said cylinder 5 misfire. I assumed it was the glow plug so I bought it and replaced the glow plugs myself. Check engine light went away for about a day then came back on. Got it checked again and still said cylinder 5 misfire. This is my first diesel and I'm clueless as to what's wrong.
2001 7.3 Limited with 232k miles Bergen County NJ.
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I have a 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis. The check engine light came on and AutoZone diagnosed it as a misfire on Cyl. #4. I changed all the plugs but I do not know how to turn off the light to see if I fixed the problem. How to turn the light off.
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I have a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country and the check engine light is on. I brought the van to my mechanic and he told me there was a code that told him there was a misfire on cylinder #1. He started out with replacing the wire to cylinder #1, no change. He replaced the spark plug, no change. He installed a new fuel injector, no change. The van runs a little ruff at idle and when at a stop light.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Prius with just under 30,000 miles. Yes, I don't drive all that much, which makes the Prius the perfect car. I get it serviced every 6 months by the dealer. So far, other than oil changes, the only actual maintenance has been tires, a 12 volt battery, and a $300 "inspection".
A few weeks ago the "Check Engine" light came on. I pulled the code P0301, which translated to "Misfire on cylinder 1". The car was running great at that time, and since clearing the code it has continued to run without the light coming on again. Given that my maintenance is more time-related than mileage-related, it's possible that the ignition system needs attention. However I'm reluctant to bring that up at my next maintenance appointment, because the guy writing up the service order will always answer "Yes" to every "Do I need ..." question.
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I bought my 2008 Prius 9-14 with 29,000 miles on it. (rebuilt title-big mistake I now know). I found out after I bought it that it had sat for 5 years before it was rebuilt) I figured it was a miracle the hybrid battery even worked.
I had no problems until 2-4-15 when check engine light was flashing and the car was shaking. The local mechanic said was the “clutch” (torque converter), took the engine and transmission out of the car to fix it ($2200). But he realized the mass air flow sensor (MAP) was not working even after he put a new one in so had me take the car to the Toyota dealer. The dealer found a cut in the engine harness and advised me to replace the harness which he said would cost $2800. The local mechanic saw the cut via my cell phone photo and offered to fix it for free which he did.
The next day check engine light comes on after driven 25 miles with code PO 301. (means misfires in cylinder one). The local mechanic switches cylinder 1 with 4, same code the next day, local mechanic switches the coils to the cylinders, still the next day the same code. He switched the fuel injectors. Same problem of cylinder 1 misfire. He cleaned the oil out of the intake manifold, did fuel injection cleaning, and cleaned gunk out of the fuel line. Car would drive good about 20 miles then same check engine light, same code, sometimes code PO300 (random multiple misfires).
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