Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Car Alarm Triggered With Dead Battery
Jan 24, 2015
I'm having an alarm issue that I didn't think much about until last night. Twice in the last three days I've come out to a completely dead battery because the alarm has been triggered. The first time it happen was at the gym and I thought maybe the car got bumped, I inspected it and found nothing out of place. Last night , I came out and the car was dead. This time the car wasn't around any other vehicles and was in a place that no one should have had to go by it. Something is a miss here and was wondering if any of you might have experienced anything similar? The first time it happen I was able to get into the vehicle using the key fob, last night I wasn't so lucky. I had to use a lock kit to get in so I could jump it. I had to do this because I usually separate my fob from the physical key so I don't have to carry them. Until this is resolved, I'll have to stop doing that.
One more thing, I noticed last night after getting the car jumped, I was able to drive home, park the car and when I went to set the alarm, my auto headlights would not shut off after hitting the "Lock" button several times on the fob. Every other time, hitting the lock button twice would always shut off the lights.
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I have a 2008 Elantra SE. The anti theft alarm gets triggered for no reason on occasion. At first I thought it was only on rainy days, but now it happens in full sun as well.
I don't need the alarm, as nobody pays attention to them anyway. Is there a fuse I can remove to disable it?
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I have a 2006 GS 300 AWD with 47,000 miles. I am currently on my fourth battery in 13 months. Between 12/2008 and 12/2009 I have had to have three batteries replaced. The dealer says there is nothing wrong with my car. Is there anything I can do. The last time the battery died on 12/5/2009 the car could not be jump started and had to be towed. The dealer said there was no parasitic electrical short and I have just had three dead batteries in one year. I have heard there have been electrical defects in Toyota products and it is not just the gas pedal.
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I have the Directed SmartStart / Viper car alarm in my car and a few times in my life it has alerted me that my car battery was low... When I checked the car it was fine.. it did it again today and when I checked it, the battery is dead... I can't even start the car...
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For my '13 GLS, I leave my fob in the center dash box compartment, and lock the doors using the button on the door. Sometimes when I unlock the door w/my key, the alarm goes off. Why is that, and how can I prevent that w/out having to carry around my fob?
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2012 Santa Fe SE and the battery went completely, utterly dead. Reason unknown but that's not the issue for now. The battery was purchased new.
Also, I had a Viper 4204 remote starter installed after I got the car, April 2014. I use the keyfob that came with the Viper to open the doors and start the car as needed.
Trying to get a jump start but as soon as I connect the cables the alarm goes off and the car won't start. Called the place where I had the remote start put in and he suggested two things. Use the original Hyundai keyfob and press the unlock button to stop the alarm. Or put the key in the ignition turned to the ON position BEFORE connecting the cable to the battery. Tried both, neither worked. Also tried just holding down the kill switch under the hood. But that didn't work either.
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Ok in parking lot car is armed but driver side door is unlocked press the unlock on remote will not unlock the doors however I can pop the trunk with remote. Try to start car and alarm is triggered and car will not start. I have fault codes like 00928, 01358. Is there away to disable the entire alarm so I can start it and get home.
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OK- the truck is a early '96 B4000 4.0, 5 speed 4x4. The key could be pulled from the ignition switch in the "run" position (worn key/lock cyl.) I got in the habit of not using the key (never turned the switch to "lock", just "off"). No issues, been driving the truck all over with no key for some time. Now I can't find the key and alarm fob. No worries, I'll just replace the ignition lock/cyl. Done.
Now the alarm is triggered, and I can't stop it. Truck won't crank, either. I assume the no crank condition is the result of the anti-theft being active. I assumed that because I had been driving around with no key, that I did not have a "chipped" key, assuming the truck wouldn't run unless the "chipped" key was in the switch. Since it ran fine, the assumption was no chip. Now I'm not so sure.
What I would like to do is disable the anti-theft/alarm system totally. Pulling the fuse is no good b/c that kills the fuel supply. Is this possible, or do I scrap the truck? I've found 2 sources on the web that indicate that grounding the the green/purple wire that goes into the drivers door will disable the system.
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Every second or third time I turn over the engine, I get a warning telling me my key battery i dead. It's a 2006, so I can see how it might be. But the thing is, it still works from far away and the automatic unlock when I touch the handles never fails either.
Is it common to get a warning when there's still juice left in the battery or is this an error?
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Ran out of gas. Continued driving car til it stopped.
Filled car with two gallons. No however, the car won't start. First push of on button will turn console on, but can't boot up car with second push. Battery shows one bar. Tried jumping/charging with a friend's car, but didn't make a difference.
Is there a way to solve the problem without taking it to the dealer?
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Yesterday I was going home and I had a dead 'battery' on my 2006 Prius. The lights were dim inside and all the maintenance lights came on. I realized when I had left the car at lunch, it was beeping at me so I figured something was left on.
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How to get into my car... keyless entry on all doors and trunk.... Do I have to call a lock smith to get into the vehicle...
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So this morning I was going to my car and pushed the unlock button on my key FOB....nothing. Weird, thought maybe my FOB battery was dead. Opened the door with the key and noticed that my interior light did not come on. My battery is only a few months old, so i didnt think it could be that. Went to turn ignition...nothing, no crank no lights dimming..zero power at all. I opened up the hood and as i did so, i saw the lights on the interior come on. I tried to start it and it started right up. I let it sit for a minute and the car just died out. No power again. I looked at the battery terminal connections and all seemed to be ok, nothing loose etc. Then in about a minute, the power came back. Ended up driving the car to work, about 30 miles, and so far it is ok. I'm afraid of getting stuck somewhere, but i dont even know where to begin to troubleshoot. Figured it can't be a fuse or it wouldn't cycle power like that. Connections to the battery seemed ok and even when i wiggled them, nothing happened.
I have an 07 with about 115k on it.
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I have a 2007. So as the title says, my battery is completely dead, and my trunk is locked. I have the master key, but for some reason, it won't unlock the trunk. It will unlock the front door, but not the trunk. The switch on the dash won't release the trunk because the battery is dead, and the seat release is in the locked position, so I can't get in my trunk from inside the cabin either. This is an incredibly inconvenient situation, because I have jumper cables right there inside of my trunk.
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My 2006 V8 sat for about 5 days last week. It started but apparently was flashing all kinds of low voltage alarms (according to my daughter, I was out of town)... She moved it aside and used another car... I charged the battery and cleared codes with the VCDS but within a day the battery was flat again. Battery test recommended replacing battery so I put a brand new battery in on Wednesday. We took the car on a trip of some 300 miles with no problems at all on Thursday, I drove the car Friday and Saturday with no indication of any problems (voltmeter in dash always sitting at 14+ volts, no messages or indications of any problems). Today (Sunday) battery is way flat again; my intelligent charger indicates 100% charge but just over 6 volts in the battery, and, based on the 100 % charge indications, stops charging and goes into Maintainer mode. My battery tester confirms the ~6 volts and recommends replacing the (brand new !) battery.
The battery management controller is: 3D0 915 181 D this being a 2006 should have the "updated" controller...
The car, suppose it is possible that this brand new battery is faulty but I believe it is much more likely something has gone haywire with the Phaeton...
Something is draining the battery after the car off and locked (I was alerted to look at the car because the lock lights on the door sill were no longer flashing).
If I can't charge up the battery to 12 volts yet another battery is indicated !?
In reading about battery problems I have never seen a suggestion on a particular device that fails ON and causes such a severe drain...
If the battery is in fact not being charged by the alternator how would this be checked ?
When I noticed no flashing lock lights on the car my first action was to disconnect the left (accessory) battery by taking off the negative lead. I then connected the charger which gave the indication of 100% charge but only 6 volts, and wouldn't charge beyond this. I disconnected the charger and connected the battery tester, which confirmed the 6 volt reading and recommended a new battery. I had to move the car as it was blocking other cars; I reconnected the battery and started the car by turning key to the left and back to the right, it started with "please start the engine" and a "level system fault" as expected, I could hear the switching relay in the trunk going on and off as expected, and I moved the car, left it running for a few minutes to move other cars, and parked it. I again removed the negative lead of the left hand battery and reconnected the charger. The "intelligent" charger now read 11.8 volts or so and a 16 % charge level, more reasonable but totally confusing as to why it changed. I disconnected the charger and used the battery tester which also read about 11.8 volts and, good news I guess, rated the battery OK. Right now the charger is reconnected and we'll see if it will bring the battery up to 12 volts and 100% charge...
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i was trying to align my headlights last night and forgot to switch them off. now the battery is dead and i need to shift it to neutral to roll it out of the garage and jump it. but it won't shift. the dealer said to turn it to on and step on the brake. doesn't work. i just get a buzzing sound coming from the engine compartment. is there any way to shift it? or do i just need to take the battery out and get it charged?
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I have a 2006 Prius with 115,000 miles that I've been having some problems with recently. Over the past 2 months the car wouldn't start 3 times. Once I jump it it runs fine for 2-3 weeks. This morning it happened again. Whole looking back on it every time seems it happen when the car doesn't run very long before I shut it off again.
Took it by dealer today and to ask them and setup a appointment. They think I have a battery going dead and he quoted it as $220 to replace. When I went to leave dealer the flashers blinked 2-3 times before it finally started. Done same thing when I got home. I also noticed when I locked the door that the red key light stayed on, instead of normal blinking. Went back out about 10 minutes later and it was blinking as normal.
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2nd battery in 2010 Sonata 4-cyl died on my wife last night. Got a new battery today and put it in. (Couldn't move car even to push as there wasn't enough juice left to get transmission out of Park). Started right up after battery replacement and ran engine at idle for probably a half hour. Engine seemed to run a little funny. Lost RPM's and sounded like it might die a couple of times, but it stayed running. Now the dreaded check engine light is on. I've had a couple of stop-starts since it began, so I'm not sure it's going to go away. Car seems to be running fine now. Is there a connection between the battery going dead (so dead I lost radio presets and trip odometer readings) and something fouling up the check engine system?
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My battery went dead in my 2004 rx330. We tried jumping it but the horn continually went off and the ignition wouldn't acknowledge the key. We have replaced it and only the dash lights up, and locks work, but wont start...
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My Mom purchased a new 2011 Lexus RX350 last spring. The dealer installed a remote starter at the time of purchase (we live in Alaska). We've had a continuing problem with the battery going dead if the car has not been driven for a period of time (like 4 days). When she does drive it, it is for short trips (3 miles round trip to work). The original battery was replaced in fall with a heavy duty one, but the problem continues. Its been to the Lexus dealer (130 miles away) several times, but they claim everything is within the tolerances and "there is no problem".
They did note that the remote starter was drawing more than it was suppose to and reinstalled it. Their finding was that she was not driving it enough and recommended a battery tender, which has been installed. That works as long as she plugs it in daily. However, if a plug in is not available (like at the airport, hospital or if she is visiting) the battery goes dead after 4 days (even after it has been driven 100 miles).
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Parked my 2002 sc430 with 6 month old battery at airport for 10 days while I was out of the country. When I got back the battery was dead. It was easy to jump and the clock was still on. I could see nothing that was left on. I have seen some other cars that have had the problem, something about theft lights, gps etc. I drove it home about 30 miles and have had no problem since.
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