Lexus GS 2006-11 :: AWD Exhaust System Has Rust / Leakage
May 18, 2014
I have come across reading about all the issues 2006 AWD models have, and one in particular is the exhaust system. It lacks a proper replacement. After reading about people's exhaust system leaking having rust through out, I decided to take a look at mine. It is full of rust.
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I thought these things were bullet proof. I have 2 sets of recently installed ceramic coated headers and both sets are getting a rusty haze to them. One is a set of cast iron manifolds I got done at Jet-Hot and the other are from Ford Racing. Is there a polish or cleaner that will bring them back yet not damage the coating?
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Want to install exhaust system on my 06 F350.Tell me,what is the best brand for my truck,I know, very good intake system is from K&N,what about exhaust?
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How to get rid of the rust build up inside the exhaust right at the exit point. The dual exhaust is in front of the right rear tire. 2005 f-150 5.4.
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I am almost 16 and I have a 2006 F150 FX4 with a 5.4 6 1/2 bed and i need a good sounding exahust. I dont wanna break the bank and i need to pass PA state inspection.
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My '05 Lexus RX330 has developed a vibration and rattling noise, that I believe comes from the exhaust system. Looking for info on trouble shooting or quick repair?
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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I have a 90 bronco with a efi 351w and im missing one nut for the manifold to exhaust pipe flange. I have looked all over the net and can't find the size I know its a 1/2in socket but I need the thread pitch and size, had the parts guy try to sell me the stud and nut kit seem really expensive for just a nut and to install the full kit I have to pull skid plates and the trany supports just to start to get room to do the job, seems like a lot of work to replace 1 nut...
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I just purchased a 2003 V10 with 270 000kms. The truck had had regular maintenance. It has an exhaust leak and runs a little bit rough. Could the exhaust leak cause the truck to run a little rough or am I dealing with another issue?
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My F150 exhaust seems rather quiet when I first start it up, but after it gets warmed up good, the exhaust is much louder (which I like). I started wondering if I had a crack up front that widened out when it got hot, so looked under it when I got home today with it hot and still idling, but didn't see any cracks. Also I did not hear any noise like a leak. All sound was coming from the side exit pipe. So... what is the phenomenon that would cause this?
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Long story, I'll try to make this short, 2000 E250 5.4L What would or could happen if the catalytic converter was removed from the exhaust system?
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Ok, probably about 1/3 times i start my 96 f150 4.9 with true duals, the left pipe has a higher pitched howling noise, its a steady tone whether I rev the truck up or not it just gets louder. It will do it for about 6 seconds and then stop. The truck doesn't run badly because of it, but i took her to autozone to get her scanned and they said that the oxygen sensor on the first manifold bank has a slow response on startup. Is that what causes this strange noise, I don't even know how it would make it, it sounds much different from the engine. The right pipe doesn't do anything.
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Leaking exhaust manifold? The truck has a much louder than normal "knock" when accelerating. At first I thought and had some bad fuel in the tank. I eliminated that with a full take of good fuel and some STP but the "knocking" continued. Then I thought that perhaps it wasn't firing on all cylinders but it felt like it had full power. I took it to my mechanic and he said it as a exhaust manifold leak. He said that he has never replaced the exhaust manifold but that it was a "nightmare" and expensive. He also said that it's not a safety issue but on the long run the leak would cause the truck not to pass its emission test. He said the problem was with rusted bolts that would be difficult to remove.
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I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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I have been thinking about toying with my exhaust. I don't have a crazy amount of money. I got a 94 F250 with the 5.8 liter 351. Heres what I was thinking. Get rid of everything after the cat, and then run a single 3 inch pipe from the cat to a flowmaster 40 series, and then exit either right before the back tire or right after it.
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i have my 4 inch exhaust pipe cut just behind the rear of the cab right now with no muffler. If i cut it further up maybe jsut under the front seat or so what would this to the sound? would it make it deeper or louder?
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Why it won't work. copper exhaust coming off the headers. I have the ability to get it and bend it and how cool would that be copper duals. Why won't it work. If I bolt it right to the headers.
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The water was not actually getting into the HVAC itself, but getting past the air inlet assembly from under the leaf screen directly into the firewall area. I will try a gasket maker that comes in rolls that I can press into place. there is no room for tools there.
Everywhere around the heater and AC module is dry. The foam on the inside firewall immediately under the air inlet assembly is soaked, yet the inside of the assembly is bone dry. I removed the entire to diagnose the leak. A light rain was enough to fill the back foot well with an inch of water.
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A few months ago I purchased a 1990 735il and have had cooling problems with it ever since. It started with intermittent leaking at the seam where the lower radiator hose meets the thermostat housing. Eventually, the lower radiator hose blew out. I replaced it, but as soon as I started the car it immediately overheated. My next step was to change the thermostat. (Note: When I removed the old thermostat it was obvious that the person who had installed it had snipped off the inner portion of the thermostat. I don't know why someone would do this, but I figured it must have some significance). When that was done I thought I had solved the problem. The car drove perfectly on a 50 mile drive after replacing the thermostat. A few days later I was sitting at idle and the car began overheating again. I shut it down, let it cool off and drove home without issue. It now seems to run fine and the temp gauge stays at 12:00 as long as I keep driving, but when at idle it seems to overheat.
It should also be noted that there seems to be some oil getting into the coolant system. I am making plans to replace the head gasket at this point, but only seems to be a one way problem as there is no evidence that coolant is getting into the oil.
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Is there a safe way to remove rust from a cooling system? It's on a 1950 cadillac that's all cast iron with a copper radiator. I'm pretty certain the coolant passages in the engine are plugged up from rust. I took off the rad hoses and rinsed everything out until it ran clear, but I've done this before and the car still runs hot.
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