So even with the AC light signalling ON on my display, the cool AC feel sometimes works well and sometimes will shut off and just blow air. The heater function works fine. I"m almost certain I need to charge in more freon.
View 1 RepliesA couple weeks ago my AC started to blow just hot air. I went to Autozone, picked up a can of AC Pro, emptied the can without overcharging the line, it ran great for 3 days, then it shut off. I thought all the freon leaked out but the next day the AC system came back on. Now it sometimes comes on and off.
I took it to my mechanic. When I first told him the issue, he came back telling me that the AC system was fine. I drove home and as I was about a few miles from my house the AC stopped working. The mechanic said they did see it leaking but to come back a few days once the dye marks the problematic area.
Should I have not used AC Pro? I did not get any error codes when I ran the AC diagnostic. Turning on/off the AC manually does not seem to work. Changing from recirculation to outside air does change much. Revving the engine does not produce cooler air.
I'm not an expert, could there be bubbles in the line causing this behavior? I'm taking my car back in tomorrow morning. I'm hoping the AC stays off so my mechanic can troubleshoot this issue. Sounds like maybe the AC is having a hard time staying on? Bad sensor?
I've got a '06 passat. The a/c was working fine one day, and then the very next day it just stopped. the a/c light comes on when I push the button for it, but it won't blow cold air. I'm not sure if this is a common problem on passats or what's going on.
View 13 RepliesPush A/C button is always on green. The (air speed) 01234 button is also always on green. the Push button turns on and off orange whenever I click it.
Anyways, the AC doesn't blow any hot air... always just cold. I've adjusted the dial to red and have left it there for a long time... no hot air. Any trouble shooting I can do?
Over the last half of the summer my A/C stopped working on three separate occasions. Surprisingly none during the day (~100 at the time) all happened at night. I would drive somewhere with the A/C on with no issue, however when I would get back in my car 5-30 minutes later nothing would come on. The A/C and recirculate light would come on as usual, but no air at all from the vents. I tried restarting the car, checked the fuses, nothing. Then maybe an hour or two later it would come back on. So far this has happened 4 times, with the most recent being a week ago. I took it to a dealer when it first started happening and they could not find anything out of the ordinary. The last time it happened, I drove straight to the dealer, only to have my A/C come on 50 ft from the dealer. Another odd symptom I have seen is when I switch the A/C to the off position occasionally it will come back on for two seconds and shut off. (electrical maybe?) At fan speed two it makes a quiet ticking noise that it didn't make when I first bought the car (though my '01 Accent made the same noise).
View 7 RepliesWe have an 06 Equinox, and lately the low beams have been working intermittently. Also, I don't think the running lights are working either. Low beams don't work on auto or in the "on" position. The high beams do work. We took it to the dealership yesterday and they said we had a bad resistor and replaced it for $270. Tonight my wife tried to drive home after dark and no headlights. She has to take this vehicle on a business trip soon.
View 11 RepliesStock FM/CD/SAT radio that came with my Sonata, AM stopped working intermittently while FM and XM both still worked. Upgraded the radio to JVC with Bluetooth and found that AM still does not work. FM works fine as well as all other functions.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Elantra w/ 108K miles. The current issue is the heat/ac blower intermittently not working. On Christmas Eve I started to drive it and realized the windshield was fogged up because blower was not working. The next day it worked fine...we chalked it up to maybe being related to having plugged a crock pot into the cigarette lighter (with a plug convertor thing)...wishful thinking that maybe something just got "overloaded." It has been working fine since, except last night when I started it, same thing--no air blowing on any of the settings (I read that if setting 4 works, but not 1-3, it makes a difference w/ the diagnosis). And, then again today...it works fine. Other things that I have noticed/that have happened in the past year or so (possibly unrelated, but figured it couldn't hurt to mention them just in case):
June 2013--started intermittently hearing a loud buzzing type sound (at first thought it was my phone vibrating)...sometimes would happen randomly, but mostly when I would adjust the heat/ac...sound coming from the passenger side front of the car floor area (maybe under glove box where I know the blower motor is). The buzzing would last anywhere from 2-20 seconds. Never did anything about it since everything was working fine...
Last winter--while driving home during a heavy snow storm w/ defrost on high and windshield wipers going noticed that the fan/blower seemed to "surge" when I stepped on the gas..like the blower would slow down when I braked and blast out much more air louder when I accelerated. I noticed this again tonight...possibly it has been ongoing and I just have not noticed.
Early Dec 2014-present--unable to adjust the temp setting...despite twisting the knob from red to blue, it remained hot air. Assumed it's the blend door, but figured we'd deal w/ it in the spring when I needed cold air again!
What this could be (or an overall problem that would explain all the problems?).
2006 Chrysler 300 Limited. Very strange issue here. If the ignition key is turned on, and the headlight switch in ANY position (auto, off, parking, or on) the headlights and fog lights turn off and on on their own! No rhyme or reason to it. At first if the headlight switch was in the "auto" position, it wouldn't give me a problem. Now I can't shut the headlights off, the foglights off, or "flick" the high beams on by pulling the "multi-function" switch back. Long story short, i think the actual headlight switch might be faulty, but the multi-function switch not making the headlights do anything is what is making me second guess this issue. Where else I should look? Fuses are all fine.
View 15 RepliesThe navigation door stopped working about 6 months ago while the navigation screen still worked fine. Two weeks ago the door started to work as it should be, but today it stopped working again.
According to other threads people have published this could be from the door being off-track, a broken motor, and a blown fuse. Obviously none of these scenarios could be apply in our case.
Btw, I checked all fuses and could not find any problems with them.
We have an 04 GX-470. Most of the time the fuel gauge and the range readout work OK. However, sometimes, the fuel gauge works, but the range shows 0 miles, or they both don't work - fuel gauge shows empty and range = 0. My wife says she thinks she's seen the gauge = empty but the range still showing xxx miles - I haven't seen that.
We've been to 2 different Lexus dealers, paid for diagnostics at both and gotten no fix. In fact, they have both said they can't find anything wrong.
To my way of thinking, these would both get their initial information from the same source - some sort of sender unit on the fuel tank. However, as both gauges do not always go out together, I'm inclined to think that this probably isn't the cause. I would think that the range readout comes from some calculations done by the onboard computer.
I've been having some troubles with my 2009 Hyundai sonata GLS 100k 4 cyl. Its quite an odd issue I've been having with my power windows. It seems that the switches or relays stop working intermittently however it does it in an odd fashion. First the drivers master switch works for all but sometimes not for the front passenger up nor down . The front passenger switch/relay does not work at times, up nor down, the rear passenger does not go up at all and the rear driver switch does not go down at all. I can't for the life of me fathom what might actually be the issue other than, all the switches breaking at the same time(due to power surge ?) Another theory I have is that is that my passengers and I sometimes place cellphones in the door handle and may have somehow damaged the switch ? I know these are some whacky conjectures but that I can think of.
View 9 RepliesAt 60k mi. A/c works fine then next day won't blow cold on usual settings. Then works fine again for months and probably over a year. Now at 72K mi same problem. Is this a switch or something since I am not hearing the a/c clutch engage? Hopefully tomorrow it works as it starts up again after a day or two. What could be going bad or is loose?
View 4 RepliesWhy External mirror command and seat memory don't work normally on my GX 470. Some time is work and sometime not. Maybe some fuse or relay are bad now...
View 6 RepliesI have a 2012 azera, and noticed this a/c issue I have had. Recently when driving, I have notice the a/c intermittently change speeds and blow faster when I am at a stoplight or slowing down.
View 29 RepliesAbout 15x now over the last year, I get in the car, press the brake, the green light comes on and half way through the start-up, the car locks up. Dead, nothing. The brake feels stiff, the key fob will not open the trunk, nor will it lock or unlock the doors, no more green or orange light on the start button. Completely dead.
The last time it happened, I opened the door, closed it again and everything reset. It came back "alive", the navigation system rebooted, the air was off and my clock had been reset. Some days this happens in a matter of a minute or two and other days it takes ten min to reset. Is it a faulty ground? Not sure why it would automatically reset on its own.
I just got a beautiful red '06 with only 19k miles. It's my second SC, and I can't believe how much I missed it after a four year break.
However, there's already trouble. The roof only opens intermittently. When it works, it's all good, no vibrations, nothing off track, smooth operation all the way open and close.
When it doesn't work, the red light on the open/close button will NOT light up. Nothing happens at all. I will come back to the car a few hours (or minutes) later, and it works fine. The problem never occurs for closing, only opening. Also, several times now I have closed my roof, and then immediately tried to open it again, but no deal. Those symptoms make me think it's not the ECU, but one of the sensors.
BTW, there is no Luxlink installed yet. I have yet to find one that includes the double-click option
About 15x now over the last year, I get in the car, press the brake, the green light comes on and half way through the start-up, the car locks up. Dead, nothing. The brake feels stiff, the key fob will not open the trunk, nor will it lock or unlock the doors, no more green or orange light on the start button. Completely dead.
The last time I opened the door, closed it again and everything reset. It came back "alive", the navigation system rebooted, the air was off and my clock had been reset.
Some days this happens in a matter of a minute or two and other days it takes ten min. Why? Is it a faulty ground? Not sure why it would automatically reset on its own.
The rubber (insulator?) around the antenna mast was seriously compromised, I noticed, when it was removed for a car wash (an infrequent occurrence). The radio worked occasionally after that.
Then I had a minor water leak through the vent system due to a blocked drainage lip on the particulate filter. The floor was soaked, causing the alarm to go off without warning (now dried and working correctly), but the radio stopped altogether if i remember correctly.
Then the wipers stopped working when it rained (they worked when dry). Replaced the wiper motor, and lo and behold, the radio works again sometimes - when it's dry out. obviously, i need to replace the antenna mast. Will this correct it?
A little over a month ago, I was headed to the car wash for a final detail before trading my '06 GS300 in for a newer model LS460 the following day. Some dim bulb with no insurance t-bones me, but t-bone might give the impression that the hit was harder than it was. I swerved as far as I could, but he still managed to hit the passenger side rear quarter to the tune of $4500.
I get the car back today, and as I'm checking things out with the body shop (gas door open, trunk open, ps rear door open, factory gaps, blends, details, etc. After we get the gas and trunk to open, I'm content, and I leave. I'm driving down the highway, and I realize that only the DS window will go down. I toggle the window lockout, nothing. I physically reach behind & roll the DS rear window down, then it starts going up & down with the button, like the front DS window. I try the same thing on the passenger side, no workie.
Is there anything obvious I should check? Honestly, I would rather take it to the dealer than take it back to the bodyshop- they pooched many aspects of the repair.
i have a lexus gs430 model 2008 , one day i started the car and noticed that the speakers not working at all ! not for seat belt alarm , not for the day date , not for radio , cd player , nav , also when i rise the volume up the volume number indicator do not appear on screen . before this situation the speakers were working perfectly fine .
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