Lexus GS 2006-11 :: 2008 Rear Brakes - Passenger Side Runs Hot
Jul 25, 2014
I just put rear brakes on my 2008. The parts fit fine but the passenger side runs hot. Very hot after just five miles.
View 1 RepliesI just put rear brakes on my 2008. The parts fit fine but the passenger side runs hot. Very hot after just five miles.
View 1 RepliesAwhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
My rear passengers side turn signal is not working. The bulb is lit up when i have my parking lights on so i know that th bulb is good. So my guess is that there is a voltage issue. I have searched the web for a wiring diagram and have come up empty handed.
View 2 RepliesJust a couple weeks ago this annoying rattle started in passenger dashboard.
View 4 RepliesMy 2008 460 has the damn peeling drip molding on the passenger side. I found a wrecked 07 gs of the same color in a local wrecking yard and I was wondering how hard it is to pull off the drip molding myself. Do I need any special service tools? Don't want to damage my car.
View 2 RepliesI've been trying to pin point this golf ball rattle i hear from my passenger rear side of my car. I though it was the sway bar end links wearing out, so i changed those along with a pair of new rear struts as they were leaking.
I was still getting the that rattles when i drove on bumpy roads. I then though it was the sway bar bushings going out on me so i took the sway bar off to eliminate it all together.....WRONG AGAIN.
Ok, it must be something behind the bumper right? before i start pulling the bumper clips my spider man senses zoned in on the passenger rear wheel caliper that i had changed 6 months ago due to a rusted guide pin that i acquire while i was living in snow country New York.
I began rocking the caliper and to my surprise the damn thing was moving very loosely.
Time for some maintenance: Turned out that the lower guide pin on the 6 month old caliper was loose. Cleaned it up and tighten it with an Allen key applied some crc brake grease, installed new brake pads and hardware and that took care of that damn rattling.
I have been doing my own brakes for years. I have had some that were not easy to keep from squealing but this one has me wanting to get rid of the car. We have a 2008 Dodge Magnum R/T package. Roughly 38K miles on the car. When the car reached around 10K miles the rear passenger wheel would squeal when you applied the brake. Rotor surface was smooth as glass. I took off the rear rotors only and had them turned. Problem went away for about 5K miles. Then the fronts started squealing.
I replaced the fronts because hte factory did not leave any material to be turned and noted that Dodge glued the pads to the calipers like they would never need to come off. Problem went away for a little while. Then it came back with a vengeance. I replaced the pad material on the fronts with ThermoQuiet pads from Raybestos. Problem is coming back again and now I cannot tell which end of the car it is even coming from because it it so loud. My wife drives this car very carefully. My thought is she is polishing the rotors too smooth and this is our source of noise.
We are at the point of squealing again and I am at my wits end with this. If I light foot it, no noise. If I stop like I think it should be stopped, not killing it, the noise is there. If I stop very quickly about 3 to 5 times in a row the noise is gone for a little while until the pads cool and then it is back even if I am on the same journey.
Recently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
I have had an issue with a clunk in the rear end. Passenger side. It was only happening when I would hit a bump. Over the last couple days it has started getting worse. At about 40 mph and above the clunking will increase and can be fairly rapid. Also have a slight vibration at that speed. Do not feel it in the steering wheel.
I think I have narrowed it down to the rear knuckle? bushing. While holding onto the bushing I rocked the top of the tire in and out to produce the clunk. I could feel it in that spot. I had ordered a set of bushings, months ago, which claimed to be a direct replacement.
Tonight I decided to try and swap them out. Should be easy. Nope. The old bushing will not come out. I have some pictures. Maybe I need to call my mechanic in the morning? My diagnosis might be wrong anyway?
So I found out this afternoon that I have a leaking sunroof. Water has been draining into the rear driver's side passenger area and has soaked my carpet under my seat. And had standing water under my rear seat in the tray next to the fuel pump access.
I found that the drain tubes can become clogged allowing for water to spill over or seep out. And sending some compressed air up the tube will clear it. But I do not know where the tube exits.
I unfortunately cannot pull the interior apart the weekend because I have drill. So it will have to wait until next weekend to gut her again. I will also pull the headliner to check the condition of the tube.
The rear seat on the passenger side wont fold down... I don't feel the mechanism release when I pull the lever... I have my trunk sealed off because I have two 15z so I cant get to it via the trunk...
View 3 RepliesAt 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
Do the passenger side mirrors on the LX570 dip when n reverse? I have a 2013 model year LX and I can't figure out a way to make them do that automatically when I throw it in reverse. I like the multi-camera feature, but I do like using my mirrors when parking and want it to automatically dip the mirror.
View 3 RepliesMy passenger headlight keeps knocking off and on every once in a while, the passenger side HID would shut off until i flip the switch to the off position and back on. I'm thinking of swapping bulbs with left and right and see how that turns out first.
View 14 RepliesI have a Toyota Sienna 2008 mini-van. I need to replace my broken passenger side rear view mirror.
View 5 Replieswhen i initially purchased "used " my 08 gs350 i had a problem with brake squeal. I kept taking it in to the dealer until they ended up changing front rotors , all 4 pads , and new shims .
Took my car into my usual mechanic to get an oil change. I knew i needed brake pads and he changed all four pads out for $350 .I am having a terrible time with brake squeal now. the mechanic is telling me that i have warped rotors and need to replace all four. He is telling me that he wont charge me labor, but the parts will cost $400.00 I goggled the cost of the parts and he isnt far off on the price . My concern is that his fix isnt the correct fix. Front what i can tell its the front rotors making all the racket.
What should i do ??I dont know if they re-installed the shims and have no idea what kind of pads were used . Thinking about taking it to the dealership and being done with it .
I have a 2004 GX470 and when driving on the freeway, the OEM roof rack bar snapped on the rear passenger side . [URL]......
View 5 RepliesI need to replace one wheel stud on the passenger side rear. Read an old post that said jack up the car remove wheel spay the stud you need to knock out with WD 40 or PB Blaster. Wait 10 minutes smack it with a small sledge hammer and out it comes. Now I have done that on some older classics but is it that simple on the SC. I have not really jacked it up to give it a good inspection, but I would think you may need to remove the rear rotor and maybe the back cover I saw when I took a quick look under the car.
View 4 RepliesMy 2009 Accent (hatch) has for some time now made a very noticeable clunking sound from the rear passenger side when going over rough roads (minor bumps). I sat in the back at one point and it is definitely coming from the area of the shock and not from the trunk. It has persisted through all temperatures and seems worse now (February in New England). I found a lot of conversation of this issue related to Elantras, but not so much for Accents. My spouse thinks it is the shock dust cover rattling, and in fact you can make it rattle, but I'm not convinced that it could make that much of a clunk - it's just what looks like a thin plastic.
View 9 RepliesTransmission Oil leak ... I have a 2008 Sonata 2.4 Auto 60,000 miles just noticed a small transmission leak it isn't leaking much but is definitely there its around mainly the passenger side of transmission area close to drive shaft but is hard to pin point.
View 10 Replies