Lexus GS 2006-11 :: 2008 - How To Get The Coil Packs Out
Sep 17, 2014
I am trying to get my spark plugs changed and having a hard time trying to figure out how to get the coil packs out. I have done some research already but couldn't really find anything solid for the GS 460 specifically. Many people had useful information on the other GS models (300,350 etc) but since the 460 is not as common, I couldn't really find anything.
I read the guys use pry bars to wedge the motor a little to have extra clearance to pull the coil packs out but it seems the LS has a little more room to work with. On the GS 460 however, it is pretty tight and even using a pry bar I really do not believe the coil pack will have room to be remove completely.
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Changed the spark plugs on my 2006 Camry today. Everything went smoothly and quickly except for the fact that I broke all the little keeper clips on the connector plugs that connect to the coil packs. I called my Toyota dealers and one said I had to replace the entire wire harness. The other found the connector plugs for around $8 each. Will the broken clips be a problem with the connectors eventually coming off from vibration if I don't replace them? I'm not sure how to replace the connectors if I go that route. How to go about replacing the connector plugs?
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2004 TB EXT, 4.2L I-6. Steady misfire on a single cyl. Changed spark plugs, (installed A/C Delco Iridium, 41-103). Fired it up, and miss was gone for about 20 seconds, then came back. Scan turned up P0301, Cyl #1 misfire. I picked up a coil pack, but before installing it, is there any diagnostic tests I can do on the connector, or any tester for coil packs? Not wanting to install this $80 part, (rendering it non-returnable), and have it make no difference. Hoping to at least be able to check for proper voltage supply and trigger signal at coil connector, if possible. Also, any checks I can perform on the injector harness? Thinking it may be one or the other. Or should I swap coil pack to another cylinder, and see if problem moves with it?
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Having issues with some or all of the coil packs going bad? Because it looks like all 6 coil packs on my R32 went bad...
Brief history, my car stopped turning on about a month ago, it was working just fine when one day when going to lunch it stopped wanting to turn on, I had to crank it about 3 or 4 times and it turned on, I went to lunch then got back but when I left for the day (at work) I once again didn't want to turn on and that's about it. I had to tow it home and a couple of friends and I began trying to figure out why we tested the fuel system and electrical. We could get no little to no spark on all 6 coil packs. Ran vag com and nothing would come up, I tested the Crank position sensor and it tested fine but broke the connector so I replaced it with a new CPS. Still, would not start.
So after a couple of days, we decided to try 6 known good coil packs and it fired right up. So yeah I've never heard of all six coil packs going bad at the same time, so what could cause that ? btw soon after the car started, about the 3rd time turning it off and on the starter decided to stop working, I'm thinking it was because of all the times I tried to start it, it was allotted. : thumb down
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I've decided to jump on the DIY bandwagon a do my own 60K service. I've found the great write-ups on the oil changes, and even the spark plug removal; but need a detailed explanation or even pictures of how to remove the coil packs to the plugs; I don't want to break anything.
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After changing 3coilpacks on my Passat 04 1.8T soo far finally the last one went out. The codes I got are P0301 (which is misfire cylinder1) and the other code is p0420 which I do not know what it is... I think it might do something with cat or something.
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I've had my 24V off the road for about a year now working on it. I did some wire tucking and what not, nothing major. Now when I go to start it, it won't start and it will make a popping noise from a coil pack and it starts to smoke.
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I have an 02 accent with a 1.5L and it is dropping #2 & #3 cylinders. I changed the coil packs and still had no spark on #2 & #3. I checked the wires going to the coils and had no voltage feeding the coil packs.
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I have a 2009 f 250 5.4 v8 trition motor my coil packs are slowly failing. I want to replace all 8 of them. Which coils and plugs I am going to need. I guess I'll replace the plugs also, how are the accel coil packs and ngk plugs....
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I have a 03 250 5.4 with 160k. I just recently replaced #4&3 coil packs. Truck was running great again. Then a few days later the truck was running extremely rough and white smoke from the exhaust. I noticed the pcv valve was not all the way in(pretty much out) put it back in and ran fine for two days now running rough every now and then and the pcv valve is making a vibrating noise but stops if I pinch it slightly. I did replace the plugs a year ago.
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completely stock 2006 4.6, 230,000 miles, I purchased and can vouch for everything after 106,000.
Two separate issues...have had a slight ticking noise growing for about the last two years. Seems to get slightly worse near an oil change but that could be my imagination. It has finally gotten loud enough that my wife (who drives with the delicacy and observational skills of a Sherman tank driver) actually mentioned it to me the other day. It is directly related to engine speed whether the truck is in gear or not. I kind of think it might be a manifold gasket going out but am not sure. Am not very worried about it but...felt like I needed to mention it because of my bigger problem....
Truck has gotten very "cranky" on startup in the last week. Has a rough time finding an idle speed but typically sorts itself out after about 5-10 seconds. This afternoon it started idling rough at a stoplight. It got steadily worse and noticeable even at speed. Four stoplights and nine miles later it threw a code and coincidentally, I was in front of an Advance Auto. They read it and said the #3 cylinder was not firing. I bought an ignition coil, drove 15 miles home and changed it. From everywhere I looked online, this is the second cylinder from the firewall on the passenger side.
Had a little trouble getting it in and am not entirely sure it is fully seated in the slot, but I can't get it to go any further. Seems as tight as a couple of the others. I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, cranked it up and it seems to run "better", but still has a rough idle. Just test drove it about 12 miles and no check engine light but the idle has not cleared up. I think coil must be working fine because I have no issues at highway speed. Earlier, when I backed off the gas you would feel the miss very badly, but not as much when under a load.
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B5 Passat, it has the 2.8 and it has been having moments of shuttering so I did a scan and hit 3 engine falts, I did do a clear and rescan so these are new faults.
3 Faults Found:
17801 - Ignition Coil Power Output 1
P1393 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17802 - Ignition Coil Power Output 2
P1394 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17803 - Ignition Coil Power Output 3
P1395 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
Right now my guess is the coil pack is going out or loose connection to the coil, this coil is roughly 8 months old so it kinda has me at a loss and hoping its not the coil.
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I hate it when this happens, but I have a coil breaking down, and I've been advised multiple times to not replace all 8 coils. So how do I figure out which one it is? I am almost sure its a coil, as the plugs do not have enough miles on them to be bad already, and the truck has plenty of power it just has a slight shudder under a load, and the engine light will occasionally flash. Seems to go away after a bit. However, I can't get it to throw a code for whatever is causing the issue. 2004 Ford F150 146k miles on it
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Family friend's son has a 08 GTI, all stock. Engine caught fire reportedly due to #4 coil. Is there some recall on this?
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So I have had my FX4 for almost 10 years now. I have an xtra cab, bought new summer 2004 in Connecticut. Bought it had 5 miles on odometer, as of today has almost 117k miles. We just relocated this past weekend from CT to Manatee County, Florida, my wife followed me down in her 2010 Escape. Both trucks ran perfect..easy driving cruise control on 70 most of the way except for VA where there seemed to be a state trooper every 5 miles
anyway so overall I am satisfied with my truck since I've owned it. Changed oil every 4000-4500 miles without fail, 5-20 Motorcraft semi synthetic and FL-820 S filter is all it has ever seen. Engine doesnt burn/leak a drop of oil. As far as maintenace items and repairs, I looked through my records, here's what I've done:
1) rear axle rebuilt under warranty, clutch packs were shot at 60k.
2) brakes/rotors all around at about 50k, they still as of now have plenty of meat left
3) pinion seal went at about 90k
4) fly wheel had to be replaced at about 95k that was an expensive repair
5) replaced both front window regulators
6) replaced sliding rear window, under warranty, was leaking badly.
7) idler pulley replacement
8) exhaust rotted from just in front of muffler to tailpipe, replaced.
Also was told before we left CT that front coil spring was broken? I don't know about that truck suspension seems fine but will have it looked at.
Also normal maintenance did tranny flush 4x so far, fuel filter 4x so far, on 3rd set of tires, came with BFG rugged terrain, replaced at 62k with TOYO open country, they lasted 40k, now have Goodyear Wrangler LT's, so far excellent. Air filters, a light bulb here and there, and replaced battery after 6 years just to do it.
I have NOT changed the plugs yet truck does run great but I know what can and probably will happen, I feel comfortable with a dealer doing it, I'm not mechanically inclined enough to do it. I will have a little bit of a commute to work here, so I will probably get a ford Fiesta or a focus for the drive, but no way am I getting rid of this truck!
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I have a 2006 Grand Prix and the same coil pack has gone 3 times in one year. Each time i have my coil pack replaced i also get my spark plug replaced. Why does the same coil pack keep going bad and how can i fix it?
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Ignition coils on Hyundai Accent (2011) getting stuck in suction? Or looking for engine vacuum pathway explanation?
I previously (~6 months ago) replaced one ignition coil that had a misfire. I currently have a check engine light with "No Codes" on code reader. My engine is rough idling with very weak acceleration. This occurred when trying to accelerate up a hill. I was looking to inspect the coil resistance and noticed the replaced coil has a pretty strong suction holding it in.
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2007 F-150 Screw 5.4... Successful spark plug change. Well, sort of. I disconnected some of the coil clips/wires from the coils during the operation. Upon installation of the wires/clips, one of the clips did not 'click' into place.
Thinking the clip needed to be pushed/pulled, I bent the clip a bit and it snapped off! Being the slow learner that I am, a second clip also did not 'click' in place, and you know where this is going: I have two broken clips out of 8. After those two, I was much more gentle.
So, can these clips be replaced and/or spliced in? I'm thinking about just using nylon ties to hold them in place. So far, they are staying put just by being pushed in place, but these two do not seem very secure.
In the future, what is the correct way to make sure these things 'snap' back into place if they seem to not want to cooperate?
Here's a picture of the two 'press clips' that broke off....
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I changed out my plugs. The plug connector on the #3 coil no longer snaps on. My only option is to use a small ziptie to hold it in place. Can cut it off and wired a new plug end on..
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How to remove the clip on ignition coil connector wires that attach to all 4 of the coils.
I see that it has a black tab that you pull to the up or out position. From there I'm at a loss what to do. I managed to prode and poke and got one off, but I nearly pulled the connector off the wire and I know I didn't do it right.
Is there a simple way to release these mothers that I'm just not getting? If so, looking for explicit instructions in minute detail..
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I've got a 2008 passat b6 estate 2.0 TDI sport. Car has highiles nearly 90k. The car needs a service but my main concern is that I'm experiencing a loss of power and the the coil shaped warning light flashes. This usually happens going uphill when the engine is warmed up. What this is and how much it should cost to fix without walking into a mechanic and paying over the top?
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